Moses Ludel

This is the trend nationwide, no in-school driver's training. Many states require first time drivers to go through private courses or an online course and testing...It's all about cost, funding and the liability of driver training programs at the schools. Moses

Haven't researched this and really can't comment...One thought, though, is that the Suburban would not have its traditional tow capacity with this engine. For perspective, this engine was originally slated for the Jeep Grand Cherokee. The torque is quite respectable, but horsepower is nowhere near the G.M. Duramax V-8, which seems far better suited for a Suburban. Let's get more information on this one. The 3.0L VM Motori strikes me as small for Suburban material. Better a scaled down version (try 4.8L or 5.3L traditional GM configurations) of the Duramax V-8 diesel that would comply with the light-duty emissions standard in California, permitting GM to offer superior power in a diesel light-duty 1/2-ton pickup, SUV or even a 1/2-ton 1500 Suburban. Scaled and detuned, the smaller Duramax would not require the heavy-duty axles and transmissions found in 2500 and 3500 GM trucks. Moses

As I've shared in other posts, the 2007-up Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited changed the "rules" about Rubicon Trail wheelbase requirements. In four-door Rubicon Edition form, this Jeep has a 116" wheelbase and is "capable" of doing the Rubicon Trail. "Capable" and "optimal" are two different things, and this wheelbase is "optimal" only with 37" or larger diameter tires. When you use oversized tires, today essential for any vehicle attempting the Rubicon Trail, you need to widen the vehicle's track width to compensate for the lift required to install the oversized tires. For that reason, the typical hardcore trail running vehicle now has wider axles and/or wheels to get the center-of-gravity back into shape and help prevent an instant rollover on side slopes and off-camber terrain. So, can I take the '05 3500 Ram Quad-Cab 4x4 at 140.5" wheelbase through the Rubicon? It would possibly make it through in one piece and still have a life left if I went to 40"-44" tires, lifted the truck and widened the track width accordingly for C.G., and found a way around the tighter corners without ripping the body apart on the granite boulders. This last point must be taken seriously, as the Rubicon Trail is not a road in many places, it is a pile of jagged granite rocks. Tight and twisty areas are simply impossible for a long wheelbase vehicle to negotiate without sheet metal damage. This is the reason for hundreds of pounds of "body armor" and rocker sill protection on trail vehicles equipped for the Rubicon Trail. A Jeep CJ, YJ, TJ or JK, the Land Cruiser FJ40, Scout and Scout II, Suzuki Samurai, Toyota mini-4x4 pickup and the Land Rover Discovery have each been considered "Rubicon material" with various degrees of modification. Today, however, there are many purpose built rock buggies with ground clearance, suspension wheel travel, track width and wheelbase length specifically designed for trails like the Rubicon. When traveling these routes, the rock crawlers and buggies now dominate the landscape. Even some semi-stock appearing vehicles are, underneath it all, actually in this rock buggy category. RareCJ8 has a representative CJ8 Scrambler that frequents the Rubicon Trail and similar challenges. This vehicle has massive 3/4-ton truck axles with a wide wheel track, a fresh 4.6L stroker inline six and major gear train and axle traction upgrades. See the HD videos for details! Your Dakota, if in the neighborhood of 130" wheelbase, would need a lift to accommodate at least 37" tires and wide-track wheels in order to attempt this trail. The IFS front drive system would likely get tossed in favor of a custom link-and-coil suspension with a beam axle or leaf springs and a beam axle replacement, minimum Dana 44. The rear axle would wind up a wider Dana 44 or more likely a wide 60 with suitable springs and shocks all around. RareCJ8's Jeep Scrambler provides some idea of the modifications needed. A lot of body armor and skid protection would be added. The AX15 might be dropped for an NV4500 truck box, and the transfer case would change to an Atlas II from Advance Adapters. With all the added weight and massive axles and tires, a 5.2L or 5.9L V-8 would make better sense, too. I could go on and on, but the point is that the Rubicon Trail is not a road in many places, it's a mosaic of large granite rocks. The bypasses make travel a bit easier for the lesser equipped vehicles. Road conditions and obstacles can change abruptly. Those who do the Rubicon Trail must have a very good reason to do so...For a glimpse of the trail and the variety of vehicles on that route, see my 2010, 2011 and 2012 Wheelers for the Wounded Rubicon Super Event coverage in HD videos. All three years of trail footage get the point across... Moses

The torque is at the limit for your AX15 five-speed transmission, and an adapter to this transmission is unavailable at this time (maybe forever, as manual transmissions are rapidly disappearing in the face of CAFE mileage standards and 6- to 8-speed automatics for maximizing fuel efficiency). The 3.0L in the Ram 1500 apparently will only be available with an 8-speed automatic attached, which might bolt to your NV231 transfer case if clocking position and spline match is correct...Here's some scuttle at the AutoBlog site: http://www.autoblog.com/2013/06/28/ram-reveals-2014-truck-lineup-ecodiesel-v6-a-2-850-option-on-1/. If the Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500 and possibly the Durango end up with large sales numbers for the EcoDiesel, and if the engine meets standards and reliability expectations, I could see this as a popular recycling yard bonanza for swaps within the next five years. At least for now, you would need the automatic transmission and all electronic controls as well. Though we don't wish anyone the ill-fate of having his or her vehicle end up in a recycling yard, unfortunately, this does happen. If the VM Motori 3.0L V-6 diesel lives up to diesel engine expectations, a 100,000 mile engine, properly maintained, could easily deliver another 150,000-plus miles of trouble-free service. Let's keep an eye open here. Sounds like I need to talk with Chrysler about the availability of a crate/swap package through the new Jeep Performance division or the traditional Mopar Performance product line... Moses

The work that Bill and I did together was funded by a grant from Chevrolet to Tread Lightly, specifically for this purpose. Yes, we did protect the land where we conducted the clinics, whether it was private or public. In fact, we taught several classes in which BLM and U.S. Forest Service personnel, in addition to members of the general public, were present for training. I, too, am not clear whether Tread Lightly has the current funding for these types of clinics. Bill and I each went on and taught four-wheeling skills, including safe driving methods and vehicle recovery, always with low environmental impact as a primary topic and demonstrated technique. We have each worked with vehicle manufacturers, private corporations and agencies. In all cases, our particular style of teaching involves low environmental impact driving and protection of the environment. For those interested, Bill operates 4-Wheeling America as his business. As a consultant, I make myself available to private parties, groups, agencies and corporations for 4WD training, trail guiding, vehicle testing, marketing needs, destination tours and new product launches. For more information, see my portfolio website. In my view, if damage to the environment is likely, find another route or come back when weather and road conditions will permit safe, low-impact travel. Occasions like rainy weather, snow and mud can turn a relatively easy, low-impact route into a disastrously damaging and scarring blight on the land. Low-impact four-wheeling is about ethics and skills. Ethics like Tread Lightly principles should be fundamental for all off-pavement drivers and riders. Technique should be cultivated, as the effects of poor driving habits or ignorance of how to operate a vehicle under tough, off-pavement driving conditions, can only lead to needless environmental damage. Moses

Really valuable point, RareCJ8! Relays are the common way to switch high amperage circuits, and your suggestion is important. By simply using high-amp load relays, activated by lower amp wiring circuits and switches, you can keep all of the heavy amp circuits under the hood, or at least use shorter cable leads. Relays are used in winches, for activating starter motors, for switching gangs of lights, for wiper motors, for just about every circuit in a modern vehicle. The first wide use of relays was on European cars and trucks, driven by Bosch's fascination with power boxes and circuit relays. Today, all contemporary vehicles have a Power Distribution Box with rows of relays and fuses. For those curious about the relay circuits on a stock vehicle, take the lid off the power distribution box/panel of your modern car or truck. (For a Jeep, there are usually as many relays as fuses.) The use of CAN-bus may change this relationship, but the idea is clear. And for high amp circuits like biggman100 and RareCJ8 describe, review the wiring and relays used in Warn winches or even your vehicle's starter circuit. The magnetic starter solenoid (a relay) gets activated by lower amperage wiring from the key/start switch. Relays simplify wiring and shorten the length of higher amperage-carrying cables—and this reduces resistance load. Going through the firewall with heavy cables becomes unnecessary, as lower amperage switches and lighter gauge wiring can trigger a high amp relay or starter motor type solenoid elsewhere—like beneath the hood as RareCJ8 suggests. The heavy cabling is simply from the battery to the remote relay and from the relay to the heavy draw device...The classic "Ford type" solenoids have been popular for a variety of aftermarket accessories since the flathead V-8 era! There are a variety of high-amp relay designs available for automotive and marine use. Painless Wiring is a good source, again, for ideas and products. Moses

biggman100, you bring up a valid point. There is no "driver's test" for non-commercial towing of lighter trailers in any state. California, Nevada and other states have enacted "J-" and "R-" driver's license endorsements for large travel trailers over 10,000# GVWR and the use of double trailers like a fifth wheel behind the pickup and a boat trailer behind the 5th wheel. This latter approach requires the same skill sets as a CDL driver behind the wheel of an 18-wheeler with doubles! In many states, though, there is no special license or endorsement requirement for a massive diesel pusher RV or a hefty travel trailer. I know that many would be uncomfortable if they had to back a travel trailer through pylons or make a 90-degree perfect parking maneuver. There could be a lot of resistance to the idea of licensure for recreational trailer pulling. Maybe, though, this could be handled tactfully like the Motorcycle Safety Foundation courses for motorcycle license endorsements. In many states, the DMV recognizes the MSF safety course and training as bona fide proof of operator skill, exempting the licensee from taking a riding test on a figure 8 or more elaborate riding course at the DMV. Many of us who understand the responsibility and skillsets required to keep a trailer safely in tow would be relieved to know that an owner has taken some kind of course to use a trailer up to, or over, 10,000# GVWR. There could be a combination classroom and asphalt training like your father did in your case...Anything would help! Moses

I took a closer look at the Black Edition Hero3, and here is the page: http://gopro.com/cameras/hd-hero3-black-edition. From what I see, the low-light enhancement is simply the currently available shooting modes compared to the previous models. I use a Panasonic Professional AG-HMC40 AVCHD Camcorder with 10.6 MP Still and 12x Optical Zoom that does a great job in daylight and a very poor job in night time filming. Without additional lighting, in fact, I find the night shooting totally unacceptable in 1080P. I don't see anything that exciting with the ratings and fps film speeds of the GoPro Hero3 Black Edition, it's also limited to fps and resolution. That said, there may be support lighting available for the GoPro, though this would defeat your purpose for wildlife night filming of any kind. I would live with 720P and the Bushnell for what you're doing. Does it have decent audio tracking? Moses

True, biggman100...It's enough to cover 4WD truck, Jeep, SUV and other off-road technology, to help folks keep a 4x4 running safely and reliably, and to enjoy our backcountry travel...Though we do like constructive, even spirited debate, we'll stay on topic. Moses

This is the breakthrough that many have hinted about, now it's official. The Ram 1500 is a "light-duty emissions" vehicle for California, which means this is the long awaited return of a diesel engine in a full-size but light emissions truck or SUV. If the 1500 is a candidate, presumably the Durango and other Chrysler light truck/SUV models will follow, as this engine fits the same emissions strata as passenger car/light truck/SUV models. As for origins of this 3.0L V-6 diesel engine, it is neither a Banks nor a Cummins product. In fact, the source is familiar if you know the four-cylinder diesel Liberty and Wrangler J-8 2.8L engine source: "The new Ram EcoDiesel engine, designed and produced by Italy's VM Motori, is the same engine Chrysler also is fitting into the 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee. For the Ram pickup, the new diesel develops 240 horsepower and 420 pound-feet of torque. The engine is linked to an eight-speed automatic transmission. Chrysler did not provide a range estimate on the new turbodiesel truck. The engine is compatible with B-20 biodiesel."—Courtesy of Edmunds.com So, as I explained in the gasoline to diesel conversion topic posts, I could, theoretically, swap this new 3.0L EcoDiesel into the 1999 XJ Cherokee for a legal, California emissions swap. The Ram 1500 or Grand Cherokee donor fits the light-duty emissions category, the engine meets the same year or newer requirement, and the tailpipe should be as clean as the XJ Cherokee 4.0L gasoline engine in good operating condition...This is a breakthrough, although for a swap, the engine would cost a small fortune as a "crate/complete" package, and the interface of the emissions and engine controller, transmission and other needs would be a challenge, I'm sure. Moses

We live at the Far West in a semi-rural area. Mass transit typically does not serve outlying communities, and we're typical for most non-urban areas. The infrastructure, especially the interstate highway system, sealed the fate of outlying communities, on the one hand connecting key cities and regions, on the other hand avoiding mass transit. Ironically, all of the smaller, rural communities where we have lived once had passenger rail service. Those rail services disappeared with the emergence of affordable motor vehicles and cheap motor fuel. Pros and cons of mass transit will likely be debated for a very long time. The one thing that is certain is the incredible increase in fuel costs. As a teenager, I pumped Hancock and Chevron regular leaded fuel (94 octane!) for as low as $0.219 per gallon in a 1963 gas war to $0.349 when I graduated high school in 1967. Consider the percentage of the average American's income that now goes to annual vehicle fuel expenses and the overall cost of vehicle ownership. I'm not referring to adjustments in wages or anything like that, simply, what percentage of your income now supports your vehicle(s) and fuel needs? I'm going to bow out here, as this discussion has strayed from four-wheel drive light truck, Jeep and SUV mechanics, dirt motorcycles, ATVs, trailers, destination travel and other forum categories. We'll discuss something more uplifting than the cost of motor vehicle fuel... Moses

It would pay to have some correct O-rings on hand, as they do not cost that much, and you anticipate stroker injectors in the future, anyway. Since you do anticipate the stroker build at some point, I would just replace the one injector, if defective, with a stock 4.0L rebuilt type. They are readily available from GB and others, through your local auto supply and outlets like AutoZone. Replacing with "stroker" injectors at this point would be ill advised. You are not sure of the engine's condition, but the engine has high mileage. Compression and cylinder seal are still uncertain, so higher flow injectors would certainly not help. In fact, the fuel enrichment could shorten the remaining service life of the stock engine. Do the injector swapping that I suggested and see the results. This is the quickest approach and could lead to, at most, a new injector that you know is needed. As for the injector wiring harness, connectors and all of that, you'll narrow the trouble with the injector swap. This has become a popular topic and replies. I'm glad to offer further help. Let us know the outcome... Moses

Much to draw from...including your outdoor interests! Moses

You bring up good points, biggman100. Wiring can be risky business if the "down the road" effects are not thoroughly considered. This means vibration, shock, heat, twisting, flexing, sharp edges, poor connections, bad connector choices, improper mating of wires, improper wire gauge, insufficient insulation, bad soldering technique, improper use of heat shrink or tape, and poor grounds. At the very least, emulate OEM quality, gauge, insulation method, connector type and safe wire routing...If upgrading, know amperage loads, wire types, wire gauge requirements and insulation types. Outfits like Painless Wiring provide guidance and "kits" for a variety of rewiring chores and upgrades. You can get ideas here. Member questions on wiring safety are welcome! Moses

Aside from the incident of a defective E-brake, there's also the issue of drum rear E-brakes not holding as well on upward inclines. By its very nature, a self-energizing drum brake system (short leading shoe lining, long trailing shoe lining) will not be as effective going backward as forward. I've shared this in other posts: The self-energizing ("Bendix" or duo-servo type) brakes work very well going forward and less effectively backward. Even if the E-brakes work seemingly well overall, this weakness is inherent to the design. Have you ever noticed that an E-brake set firmly on a drum brake system may seem "off" when you accidentally back the vehicle up without releasing the E-brakes? You go forward, and the vehicle stops immediately. This is the self-energizing effect and related to the lining length and effectiveness of the brakes in forward versus rearward drum rotation. There are other designs (center plane, dual wheel cylinder and others, plus all disc brakes) where the direction of wheel rotation is not an issue. So, biggman100 has a good idea. If you make an emergency stop, especially pointed uphill with a drum rear brake vehicle, use wheel chocks. Actually, any emergency stop, especially wheel and tire changes, requires wheel chocks. If you change a rear wheel and tire on any vehicle that has the E-brakes at the rear (virtually all vehicles except those with a driveline brake), jacking up one wheel will obviously decrease the braking capacity by 50%. Add to that an incline upward or a heavy load, and you're really in an unsafe situation. Quality wheel chocks would help here. Moses

A great heritage and legacy...Teach your children, they're part of the Seven Generations! Moses

High center-of-gravity looks precarious for the Rubicon Trail!...A longer wheelbase was once considered a liability, too, but the JK Wrangler with 4-door Unlimited 116" wheelbase version broke that standard. Of course, it takes 35"-37" tires (minimum) for a JK Wrangler 4-door model to do the Rubicon Trail without ongoing break-over angle issues and hanging up on the skid plate! Moses

I really like your idea about renting a trailer first, biggman100! Again, both biggman100 and I emphasize that the trailer must be within the weight rating for your vehicle. (See your vehicle owner's manual or discuss this with an authorized dealer for your brand truck or SUV. Get answers in print.) Use a factory rated hitch, ball size and safety gear as well. If required, make sure you have the correct trailer brake controller. If you're not familiar with trailering, try to get the rental firm to demonstrate the use of the trailer behind your vehicle. Trailering is an art, backing up a trailer is a craft, and if you learn to do both properly, you add a whole new dimension to your driving ability. Be aware that trailering means allowing plenty of stopping distance, allow for added weight when accelerating under pressure (like passing), too. Learn to keep the vehicle and trailer steady and stable. Do not overreact to obstacles in the road, and avoid squirrely maneuvers that can cause loss of vehicle and trailer control. In other words, slow down if necessary and pay attention! A load distributing hitch is a must for larger trailers. A sway control brake is very useful as well. See comments in the trailering discussions at posts throughout this group category and its several forums! Moses

Excellent point to bring up, biggman100! Adhering to the vehicle's towing capacity is a must, and the hitch design must work with both the chassis tow rating and the trailer's weight. I made comments to that effect in describing a Durango that jackknifed with a tandem axle trailer in tow. I not only agree with your comments, I will add, once again, that any short wheelbase and/or narrow track vehicle is a poor candidate for towing under the best of circumstances. I simply avoid doing it. The capper for me, from your comments, is the realization that some of these tent trailers can weigh 2000 pounds!!! I was thinking well under 1,500 pounds, they must literally include the kitchen sink these days. I totally agree that an AWD car is not a candidate for a 2000# trailer. The trailer and vehicle must accept the correct hitch design, receiver size and ball size (as factory recommended). Never pull a trailer weighing more than the vehicle's factory tow rating. Summed up, always match the vehicle's factory tow rating to the trailer weight, and use a factory-recommended or approved trailer hitch. Forget the idea of AWD cars pulling larger tent trailers. Maybe an AWD car and something like the USA VenturCraft trailers would be okay. Like the 505# curb weight Sportsman model that I pulled behind a Geo Tracker on the Rubicon Trail. The USA VenturCraft Trailblazer was for our CJ-5 Jeep, and that trailer had a curb weight closer to 700#. Thanks, biggman100, for highlighting the weight of some current tent trailers. I'll footnote my earlier comments and have readers pay attention to these additional points! Moses

This is great, JJ_Jeep! The battery is at least bringing normal readings, and the negative battery terminal has been a problem all along. Whether this "cures" the #1 Misfire code or not, you needed to do this as a place to start, since you cannot get accurate readings or consistent performance any other way. As for the #1 Misfire code, if this occurs again, there's an inexpensive way to test the #1 injector. Try swapping the injectors. Move #1 injector to any other cylinder (pick an easy injector to reach), and place that cylinder's injector in the #1 position. With injectors swapped, clear the code(s), run the engine, and see if you throw a new code. Drive the Jeep and see if you throw a code. If you throw a #1 Misfire code, the original injector was not at fault. If you throw a code for the cylinder where you placed the #1 injector, you know for sure that the problem is the original #1 injector itself (replace that injector!). This is a fairly failsafe test and often a dealership troubleshooting technique. Swapping injectors is not very difficult when compared to other troubleshooting steps. Before swapping the injectors, try the terminal fix, and go from there. You're making progress! Moses

For the lighter weight tow vehicle without a lot of horsepower, a tent trailer can be an excellent solution. The compact SUV, a SWB Jeep 4x4, or even an AWD car* provides a sufficient platform for towing the typical tent trailer. *Note: See my comments following biggman100's reply to this statement. He clarifies the weight of some modern tent trailers; I agree with him that an AWD car is surely not a candidate for the heavier tent trailers available! Always adhere to the vehicle manufacturer's tow rating, recommended trailers and the use of a factory recommended hitch! Tent trailers are available with every kind of accessory, rivaling a travel trailer on a smaller scale. Years ago, we tested a nice StarCraft tent trailer that had hot water, refrigerator, stove, a toilet and shower! Sure, this wasn't Airstream caliber or size, but it did work—well! On the downside, a tent trailer has some drawbacks. From a security standpoint, canvas is not even a slight deterrent to theft break-in or worse, and then there's the "bear syndrome". Leave enough peanut butter, bread and honey scent around, and even some kinds of human scent, and the bears will visit. Even the smallest black bear can rip a tent trailer to shreds in an effort to get a free meal! Not that sheet metal trailers are a failsafe. There are many stories about travel trailers, bed-mounted campers and bears. I'll limit this to an Eastern Sierra, Buckeye Creek campground tale of recent times. Bears out of the Yosemite Valley have found their way into the Bridgeport Valley/Twin Lakes region, and on a regular basis, they visit the campgrounds. A friend who camped there said bears tore through the windows of cabover campers and travel trailers in an effort to reach foodstuff left out and wafting a scent. So any trailer or a camper can be vulnerable, it's just that one swipe of a bear paw can rip apart a tent trailer wall. (In Grizzly country, it takes just a few more "can opener" swings to open a sheet metal wall.) Something to consider...And please, don't feed or encourage the bears, they're drawn to human food and garbage enough! I have also used mini-tent trailers like the USA VenturCraft, even their tiny Sportsman model, on trails like the Rubicon. You often see an M416 trailer doing this kind of duty...These units have no provision beyond stowage and a bed. Their great advantage over tent camping is that the tent trailer places you off the ground and above any accumulation of frost, snow or streaming rain water—above the mice, chipmunks and squirrels, too! Another consideration with tent trailers is the setup time. Even under the best of conditions, it takes from 20-30 minutes to set up the tent trailer. Don't listen to the salesperson, ask them to demonstrate the "10-minute setup". Who knows, maybe times have changed. We set up a tent trailer in a windstorm alongside Highway 50 at a camping spot. Two kids under six years of age stood by watching two adults struggle with the canvas, tubing and braces. It took an hour before we had a meal in front of us. Had this been a sheet metal travel trailer, even in a windstorm, we would have walked through the entry sheet metal door and been cooking a meal within minutes...On that note, there are now tiny, lightweight travel trailers that can be towed readily. Would like to hear how tent and tent trailer camping works for you and your family! Moses

Better to capture the bear on a remote video camera like this! The GoPro Hero3 Black Edition, while in the $400 range, offers a lot of accessories, high-res still photos and HD video to 4K mode. I lug around a Panasonic 1080P HD video camcorder for professional grade HD video filming; however, besides the Leica lens quality in my outfit, the Black Edition with three lens angles will likely become a portable choice for documentary journalism. At Moab, the other journalists content themselves with hand held GoPros or stick them on dashboards when four-wheeling. There are shoulder mounts and tripods, mini-shotgun mics and other accessories available in the emerging GoPro and aftermarket accessory lines. This is also the setup for decent still photography, even enlargement prints to 11"x14" for sure, and the GoPro or a variety of 4/3 cameras are rapidly replacing traditional formats like my Nikon D300 35mm camera, which I use for wild horse photography. (You can download the lower-res PDF proof sheet, these images make nice screen savers if you like horses!) This is the era of home artwork, photography and videography, and especially for internet, Vimeo Pro or YouTube, an under $1000 camera and HD video outfit works! Make sure the video is 1080P. Moses

Sounds like fun! As for bears, I'll touch on that with a post topic! Moses

Sounds familiar...Of course, it's cheaper to not buy a new vehicle; however, you need to constantly perform preventive maintenance and inspection if you want the vehicle to perform as reliably as a new one...Unless you're in a position to do professional-grade work on your vehicle, there's the added cost and dilemma of subletting the work. When considering a used vehicle, shop hourly rates, even for independent shops, now hover around $75-$100 per hour flat rate. Considering just the cost of a DRBIII scan tool or equivalent, new or used, it's understandable why. So, this is an issue, because safety and reliability are essential, especially for our 4x4s used in remote backcountry, and every part of any vehicle has a lifespan or duty cycle. Having a fleet truck maintenance and restoration background, I have been fortunate, and realistic enough, to stay on top of our vehicles. We've never been stranded nor had a total vehicle "breakdown" or tow in our family vehicles, and this is actually most unusual. (Minor trailside fixes don't count, we kept going without a glitch.) The closest event was a limp-in drive to the dealership under warranty when the Dodge Ram had 800 miles on it, and the Cummins ECU decided to quit, not just on our truck but on a whole slough of '04 models. (Recently, Chrysler extended the warranty on the ECUs for these vehicles.) A change out of the PCM under warranty, a flash of the new Cummins Recon computer, and the truck has run flawlessly for the following 120K plus miles. This is the "price" of used vehicle ownership. When you have a family and children, safety and reliability are of the utmost importance. Maybe we should start these two new topics: "Used Versus New Vehicles" and "Preventive Care"? Moses

Good points...As for volume demand, that's true of all motor fuels, and it's also interesting to note the comment from the Chevron CEO when asked at a hearing why pricing is so high in a supposed "supply and demand", free-market economy. His response, in essence, was that there is a demand, and the oil companies charge what they can get, not based upon supply. This is unique to a free enterprise marketing model, and it fits your comment about there being a demand for a commodity which we depend upon. There is no alternative to fossil fuel at the present, and the entire country is dependent upon an infrastructure that demands vehicle ownership, truck transportation and driving on public roads. This is total dependency, not demand. Mass transit is looked at with derision in many circles, like we're somehow giving up a basic American right. Alternative fuels have really had no push, prospects like algae fuel might actually break "foreign energy dependence" once and for all. We go on with this thing culturally, because we as a society have subscribed to a belief system around the "freedom" of using automobiles, trucks and other motor vehicles to meet our transportation needs. In the process, we have collectively created a green light for oil companies to set any price they want. There is no freedom of choice, fossil fuel at the pump from Exxon-Mobil and Chevron is a necessity...And as prices continually bump upward, we haven't seen a significant public reaction yet. Your point about taxes and government are well taken, too. Sounds like governments, both state and federal, have something to gain from motor use fuel taxes. At the very least, these taxes pay for our transportation infrastructure improvements and road maintenance, plus they fund lifetime state and federal agency workers who are taxpayers, plus they create many private sector jobs at road construction and maintenance. Yes, it's the transportation "system". Despite the cost of fuel and the taxes, we continue to drive as usual...This week is Hot August Nights at Reno, an all out celebration of the automobile culture and the "good old days"—the contemporary subtext to this is our dependency on oil companies...The time honored caveat: "Be careful what you ask for..." A home-based biodiesel station sounds more appealing all the time...As fuel pricing continues to rise and profits at Exxon-Mobil and Chevron reach new heights, at some point it could become cost effective to cook up our own fuel for the Dodge Ram 3500 4x4...By that time, however, the state and federal governments will likely devise a way to collect motor use tax on homespun fuel, so we'll have to factor that expense into the equation when considering "cost-effectiveness". Moses