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About GoatBoy4570

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  1. Its been 3 weeks and i thought i would update this thread with some seat time feedback. I have to say im a lot happier with my brakes and they seem to have burned in a bit more and gotten even better. The one caveat if it is one is that under panic stop hard braking there is a bit of spring in the pedal, i suspect this is the firewall flexing a bit were the booster mounts, stands to reason really this has to be the strongest part of the firewall. One thing i dont have to do anymore is hang back in traffic all the time, i was leaving extra stopping space because my brakes were so shi
  2. Mechanically your all in, solid oil pressure, small temp variations look normal. if your header tube temps are fairly consistent you can assume its fueling correctly. thermostat opens fully when she's good and warm. An engine is more efficient thermally when its run at 195. So now you break er in a bit a keep your ears tuned to every nuance of how this thing is running. Third times the charm!
  3. It does, i would estimate around 15%. I can screech my front tires now on a hard stop were before i couldn't, pedal response is faster too. I will admit my method of engineering was, lets try it and see if it works after reading somewhat conclusive information on the net. I fully realized that the CJ and YJ have significant design differences in there booster setups. The brake pedal after all is nothing more than a second class lever and as it happens the CJ has two 2nd class levers with the other one between the brake pedal and the booster. So we have a double underdrive situat
  4. Thanks Moses for the added info on my swap, the devil is in the details as they say. 60Bubba uses the 8" DD booster / MC kit that is readily available on Ebay. From my research that engineered kit is the final word (the bomb) next to a hydro setup. It should be mentioned as well that OEM grade (organic) brake pads and shoes are marginal at best and metallic or carbon metallic are mandatory. All things considered the booster swap and premium pads (once they are burned in) made my CJ a much safer ride. This is an improvement but for those wanting more or running bigger than 33" tires t
  5. Your worrying to much about ordering the wrong part. you have more than enough info to order parts for your tracker. Amazon is a redistributor, a middle man, a very good one granted but they do not have expertise as to what they are selling so the more checks they make the better the chance they will sell you the right part. Try and hook in with a car part house like rockauto. rockauto is the amazon of car parts
  6. The picture to me looks like one side of the rack (as in rack and pinion steering) if you look further you will find the pump mounted near the belt drive on the engine. The rack can be rebuilt and some guys do it but most just re & re it. You've got a end seal going and to replace it the rack has to come out and be dismantled. Some racks are easier than others, to replace the seals you need to remove the tie rod ends as well and if the threads are rusty it will be hard work. Your best bet if you cant get a rack right away is try a seal sweller, its an additive that you add to the p.s
  7. Well i did the swap, the pedal requires less effort and braking is improved, i retained my master cylinder which required slotting the mounting holes and cutting the casting at the bottom. The drive rod behind the master needs to be swapped or modded. Using the taller YJ master would have hit the rad support rod and put the lines on the carb side. Link rod inside simply hooks up and the brake pedal and is maybe a we bit lower.
  8. Looking for info on this swap... I have a air leak in my 83 CJ power brake booster, i need a new or reman booster of course but im thinking take the opportunity to upgrade (if it is one). Anybody done this YJ to CJ booster swap or have good info please share. thanks
  9. I hate to say it but think this is a classic lobe has gone flat on the cam symptoms....well in my experience anyway. When they start to pop out of the carb like that its ``Ùgh time to change the cam`` If you fashion a piece cardboard to act as a push-rod oil deflector you can briefly run the engine with without the valve cover and not make too big a mess. Look for the rocker that's not moving or hardly moving, that's your bad lobe. Did you notice the problem after going for a long drive, you got home and it wasn't running quite right, an then it got progressively worse? My gues
  10. Retinking my last post, trying to nail down a lean cylinder under load is pretty tricky, you've got exhaust temp and reading the plugs to go by. reading exhaust temp you'd have to rig up a pyrometer and move from pipe to pipe, mount the gauge on the hood, bomb down the same stretch of road at the same speed, you get my drift (: not the most practical. Im thinking a lean injector may not show up idling or revved up in the driveway but if you have a cooler pipe at idle that could be an indication. If you unplug (electrically) each injector and see if number 1 makes little difference th
  11. Everything you describe about the oiling system and clearanses says solid build, good to go. The Melling pump spec`s perfect regardless of sketchy gauge. This is starting ta point big time to running lean on that first hole, that burnt spot on the back side of the piston is evidence, this piston is soaking up so much heat oil can't cling to it. Get out your non contact thermal temp gun and compare temps across your cylinders shootin the header tubes close to the port, try different rpms, open and closed loop, hot and cold, the injector or the wire to it, something has to be amiss. If
  12. My understanding (what ive read around the net) is 88-90 blocks are cast similar to 4.0, my block for people who what to keep an eye out for one can easily be spotted as it has 5 freeze plugs like a 4.0 not 3 as with pre 88 4.2s. My understanding, which as i keep investigating is probably wrong was that the 4.0 and 4.2 have the same compression height, the difference in stroke is made up by the rod. I was hoping the 242/258 were similar to the Chev 350/400 in that the engines used the same compression height but just shortened the rod to accommodate stroke change. What ive read lately abo
  13. Im looking at building a motor for my 83 Cj7 I have options, I have a 96 4.0 parts motor with 0630 head plus a spare 7180 head. I have two 258s one is a 1990 (006CL25 / EF3235444) the other an 80 (009C09 / 3235444). The 1990 258 i could just re-ring and drop a 4.0 head on, i wouldn't even have to plug the water jacket holes in the head as the 90 block is squared of on that side like a 4.0 block, re cam with a RV unit and i'm hauling like never before. Pretty strait forward. Or; Take the crank and rods from the 1980 block and put them in the 4.0 block. With this one i would keep
  14. I think you pulling number one piston and rod assembly twice and having a stiff piston on pin situation both times is an indication of a problem right there. On top of that you have scuffing in that same bore as well. Scuffing is a form of micro welding that occurs with friction (heat) between two metal components in the absence of lubrication. On a jeep six the oil pump is in the middle putting cylinders 1 and 6 furthest away, for some reason number one is not getting enough oil, question is why? First up, what is the oil pressure when the engine is hot and at cruising rpm? if its 1
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