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Hi, I'm, new here but excited to have found this website! I have owned the "Jeep Owner's Bible" for a long time now and have gotten a lot out of it! I have restored and upgraded a 1983 CJ8 Scrambler in almost all ways, but not the brakes. I use it to tow a #2000 boat, for outdoor expeditions and some off-roading. 32" Duratrac tires on R16" steel wheels. Backseat and Full hardtop. Rebuilt 4.2L with Mopar MPI and 4.0L head conversion. Flanged Axle d20 rear. AX15 trans. Twin stick d300. 2.5" spring lift / 1" body lift. Recently I was driving at night near Moab, with 4 people in the Jeep (no boat). I come around a corner and there was a cow in the road... I nailed the brakes and they did not lock up! We came to a stop about 4' away from hitting the cow, but it didn't feel like we had adequate brakes! With larger than stock tires, and the extra weight of boat, gear and potentially 4 passengers, I want better brakes! Currently the seal on the top of the MC is bad, and I'm losing paint on the inside of the fender. I tested the OEM Booster and it's definitely assisting the pedal, but I don't know how old or good it still is. Here's my plan/questions: (1) It makes sense to start with the friction surfaces (and this is what most people seem to recommend). Get more stopping power without jacking up the pressure, right!? But since my MC needs to be replaced, I figure it's a good time to consider a new booster. (2) For the front I am considering "Stoptech" Kevlar/Aramid composite pads and slotted Cryo-treated rotors. The tech guy at buybrakes.com says I can expect around 20% more stopping power in the front with this setup. (3) For the rear I'm considering swapping the 10" oem drums up to 11" CJ drums. I believe this will create around 10% more stopping power in the rear. I'd also consider composite liners but not sure if anyone makes them. (4) Replacing the rubber brakes hoses with braided SS. Questions: (1) Were the stock oem tires 28" or 29"? (2) Do the 11" drums have larger capacity wheel cylinders than the 10", and if so does this require and change to the Proportioning valve or MC? (3a) If I get 20% more stopping power in the front and 10% more in the rear, does this throw off the ratio for the safest possible braking? (3b) Will the stock Proportioning Valve be OK now that the front and rear no longer have the same ratio of stopping power relative to each other? (4) Is there anyone who sells linings for the rear drum brakes that are high performance composite to match the front? (5) If I upgrade the friction surfaces according to this plan, will the addition of the Dual-diaphragm booster be overkill? Would it make the brakes too touchy? (I also drive on snow and ice). (6) Will doubling the pressure (Dual-diaphragm) be too much for any part of the oem system?
Looking for info on this swap... I have a air leak in my 83 CJ power brake booster, i need a new or reman booster of course but im thinking take the opportunity to upgrade (if it is one). Anybody done this YJ to CJ booster swap or have good info please share. thanks