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About Raggedyman

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  1. Update: The engine is back together and I have approximately 30 minutes of idle time in the garage and about 25 miles on it so far. It still runs very strong and I have no doubt it'll blow my '01 4.0l away easily. I have installed the thermostat and checked, and rechecked, the coolant level and so far so good. I replaced the cherokee water pump with a stock '94 wrangler water pump and used a belt pulley from an '00 grand cherokee to run the belt correctly since the wrangler pump sticks further out and the stock wrangler pulley doesn't go far enough back towards the engine to safe
  2. I'm hoping to use a noid tester to check the firing of the injectors at the connectors. The wiring harness was also taken from a cherokee and various pieces were added/removed to make it work with my YJ. That said, I really didn't touch the injector section so I didn't take a close look at the connectors other than making sure the grounds were good. I also plan on using a stethoscope to listen to the injectors as they fire...maybe I can catch something. The header is a stock wrangler header with a stock O2 sensor in the normal position. I drilled and added another bung about 4 inches
  3. Thanks for all the info, I'll definitely check into the fuel side as I put it all back together. The injectors were bought off ebay, but from a supposedly good site that cleans and tests each set. I was thinking on swapping the injector but if it is bad then I'm just going to be repairing another piston....but at least it'll tell me what's wrong. I was also going to rig up a noid tester using some led's to check the signals coming from the ecu. I did pressurize the fuel rail and check the injectors and the spray patterns look good with no leaks. Number 1 injector is at the feed/return
  4. The lack of lubrication was my initial diagnosis as well. With the oil rings scraping oil from the cylinder walls to lubricate the wrist pin I immediately started there. The inside of the piston shows a dark spot indicative of oil burning, but I blamed that on the heat from the scoring since it was only on that side of the piston. The second set of rod bearings did not have the oil hole but the general consensus was that it was not needed and some bearing manufacturers have stopped doing it. I have added that oil hole on this set of bearings. I am running the stock 4.0 oil filter adap
  5. Hmmm, how early? My build uses a 1994 cherokee block and head. As far as I know the machine shop did use a torque plate, although I didn't specifically ask. Thanks for all the good info, I'll definitely keep it all in mind.
  6. Yes, the rods, crank, head and block were all checked at the machine shop before the initial build began. The crank was turned down .010/.010.
  7. Thanks for taking the time to respond, I really appreciate it! I was running the cherokee water pump, which is reverse rotation, and using the same serpentine belt configuration normal for the engine. I also had the fan in place offset from the center of the engine and running a separate electric fan using the fan control relay and wiring. I checked the actuation of the fan controls and checked to be certain that it was a puller fan and not pushing....it's mounted on the engine side of the radiator. It's the standard cherokee 4.0 engine/head and I'm using a fel pro 26211pt head gasket. I
  8. Hello all! Hoping you folks can help me figure out my problem with a 4.6 stroker that I've built. After the first assembly there were no issues with the break-in process which followed the cam manufacturers directions using comp cams break-in oil and lube. I did the normal easy break-in driving for about 50-75 miles around town and then drove it to work, 50 miles one way. When I started it up after work it was knocking. The knock doesn't go away with time or heat, it gets quieter during running but slowing to idle it's there every time. I got it home and immediately tore it back down
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