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Sabueso

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Everything posted by Sabueso

  1. Just plain regular fuel (non-premium). Have no idea where the rust came from but it's 27 years old. I may have to go for a new Plastic Tank. Funny thing, I got the new pump and sending unit but the fuel gauge didn't mark the gas level even after putting in $20 of gas. I was just happy to use the Jeep again. I checked the wires and the Crown pump wires do not match the colors but the connector is correct. I tried different positions with the wires but nothing. At the end of the day the level went up a little but. It could be the floater got stuck. But that's just means I dedicate a few hours next weekend for that. Right now I'm just enjoying the ride. Here's a pic of my wife by the old Red Jeep during our weekend run.
  2. FINAL UPDATE: I believe this issue is finally put to bed! The problem part was the Fuel Pump! (Pics below). These are the kinds of issues that are very hard to troubleshoot and almost always have a logical cause in the end. I actually wanted to check the Fuel pump way in the beginning but hearing the old pump activate every time I turned the ignition key kept me from pulling the tank. Plus, it always ran great for at least 30 minutes or more. So I took down the tank after getting nowhere by replacing the CPS. I pulled the fuel sending unit/pump and as you can see by the pics the unit was completely rusted! I’m sure the ground wires had plenty resistance build from the rust. The pump still went on in the morning but the other day during a test drive and it started to sputter and kick and turn off – I waited 5 minutes and turned the key and listened for the pump. I heard it but not as strong as the morning start up. That’s what made up my mind to bring down the fuel tank. I bought a new one from Quadratec (Crown model for the YJ 2.5 1990). I ran my test yesterday. Went around the Island and did 128 miles. Used the jeep for about 3 hours – no problems!! Lessons Learned: Electric and Fuel related Issues on these Jeeps can be similar and caused by different parts. Be patient. The issue will show its ugly head. Just keep trying. The right tools – Fuel pressure gauge, multi-meter, good ratchets, wrenches, impact gun, Hydraulic Jack. On specialty tools I’d say – measure the cost of the job. If a mechanic will cost less than buying the tool for DIY and it’s not a recurring issue don’t buy it. Also, buying a specialty tool for testing a specific part and the part itself doesn’t cost so much I’d rather just buy the part. Replacing an old part is not a bad idea. But that’s just me. This was a long post (since February) but I’m sure that people with more time could have resolved it sooner. I’m a weekend warrior and weekday code monkey so time is scarce. Thanks Moses for your expertise and patience.
  3. No oil leaks yet. I re-did the motor last summer and haven't driven much due to these problems. But my driveway is oil-free! Having the Jeep since 1990 I've experienced leaking rear main seals a few times. Right now everything in there is super clean. And even with a leaky main seal the Jeep always ran for good long time. In the PDF you sent me before I could see the CPS test. I'll try that test with a warm engine. Thanks again Moses. I'm feeling closer everytime.
  4. Another update. I've done a lot of searching on the forums looking for someone with a similar issue. Finally found someone which made sense. I don't have the link, but since this person had the same stall issue after only 30 minutes or so. In fact he stated he could set his watch to the problem. It would act up after 30 minutes of driving. Turned out to be his CPS even though it was a Cherokee, but the CPS was the same as mine. I did more reading and found that a CPS can develop "thermal failure". They can test good and turn on when cold but will leave you stranded down the road from heat or vibration. Can you elaborate more on this Moses? Does it sound logical? I've only replaced mine once and then it was because my cables got cut when I repaired the tranny. But I kept the original. So yesterday I spliced and soldered the cables from my old one to the connector of the replacement. Went for a test but it acted the same after 30 minutes. I think both are bad - my original is pretty old from 1990. The replacement is just Pepboys type that might not be the best and it's over 5 years old. I really think this could be it. The Jeep drives so well for the first 25 minutes. When I installed my original CPS and tested I could actually feel a stronger performance. It was doing 3rd gear going uphill! According to a video, testing ohms at connections B & C should produce NO resistance. On both CPS' I did get some resistance (.209 and .241). Bottom line, I'm gonna buy a new one.
  5. Actually I eliminated the emissions timer many years ago. At the time I found it very inconvenient to have a timer that can't be reset and its only purpose is to let you know to check your emissions. At a cost of $120! I never had a problem without the timer for many years. Whenever I suspect the O2 sensor I replace it and the Jeep immediately performs much better. Because of work and my weekend job (My band Gigs every weekend ), I barely get time to deal with the Jeep. I may take a day off just for that. I'm going to try the Relay switching and maybe buy a new one, and I'm going to check everything regarding the fuel tank. I read on another forum that the return line can sometimes be the culprit if it gets blocked somehow. I will also do the connections at the ECU with contact cleaner and any other contacts that might need cleaning. And of course the injector. Been meaning to test the spray pattern. Thanks for the info on the MAT. I think I found one based on part number everyone mentions on the internet. I bought it on Amazon and they agreed to the return. But one thing about the old MAT - I removed it after my last test and put it aside. It got cold really quick cause the tip is plastic so I measured for Ohms and I got almost 4K! But since the motor was still hot after the drive I screwed the MAT back in by hand and checked the ohms. I watched it go down to .683 ohms! That's a good reading for the MAT with a warm engine right? Frustrating yes, but I'm not giving up! Thanks Moses.
  6. Update! Rather than buy yet another tool for testing I bought a new coil. Ran great for 20 minutes. Then spit and stall. Waited 10 minutes and started. Ran another 10 minutes before stalling. Since it stopped in front of the vegetable store i bought some lemons, started the Jeep and made it home (5 minutes). So new spark plug wires, new coil, new fuel pressure regulator. I really need to get this right. I'm not buying the coil/ICM problem since the jeep reacts exactly the same with 2 different ICMs and the new coil and wires. The weather where I leave is not that humid/hot. I live close to the hills where the temperature is bearable. And this Jeep has always been on the cool side. I have a larger aluminum radiator installed and the engine stays between 195 and 200 F. It seems to be a time syndrome. I get 20 minutes per ride before it cuts out. Could it be a fuel pump relay get tired after a while? Should I go back to checking fuel problems? I've never changed the injector because it behaves great for a while. But I might as well test it. Bye the way, I got the wrong MAT in the mail. Looks exact but the thread is bigger than my original. Any idea what my thread measurement is for the MAT? Frustrated!
  7. Justed tested a long ride with old ICM installed. Same kick/stall. Ive got 2 ICMs. I dont think both are identically bad. You mentioned ICMs or ECUs work or they don't. I'm betting on the coil. But I might get the MAT first or both. My next item is testing the coil spark.
  8. BTW - Here's one I found on Amazon. The part number doesn't match the ones listed from another member's post regarding Jeep YJ MAT but Amazon had it as a related item. https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-Temperature-25036751-Connector/dp/B00E5PLAVO/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00E5PLAVO&pd_rd_r=AMMT2W7QC6G15HFD6WMC&pd_rd_w=BAEtw&pd_rd_wg=hw6pP&psc=1&refRID=AMMT2W7QC6G15HFD6WMC
  9. I found my old ICM. the original Bendix brand made in France. I installed it just to see if it does the same thing so I can rule out the ICM. It turned on as usual and had great power and idled fine. But I couldnt do a long drive because it was too late at night (Bed time). I will test with the old ICM and write here again. If it stalls after high temperature then all points to the ignition coil, right? I also pulled the MAT sensor because its the only original sensor on the Jeep. Been there since 1990 and it didn't look bad except for dirt/grime. I cleaned it with Brake cleaner which probably finished off . I'm planning to get a new one which are hard to find. Do you think a bad MAT can cause this kick/sputter/stall problem?
  10. I think it might be good to share some history with this issue. It goes back about 4 years (2013/2014). I used to work as an inspector for AT&T mobility installs. This means I needed a vehicle to reach remote areas of Puerto Rico where their antenna towers are located. It gave my 4wd a lot of use due to the improvised roads. Anyway, everytime I traveled for more than 2 hours and turn off the jeep it would not immediately start back up. It would take about 20 minutes and start backup and drive normal. As time went on it began not wanting to go more than 1 hour before the problem returned. Last summer I did a motor overhaul because of noisy piston rods and 400k miles of good use. The problem went from 45 minutes last summer to now 20 minutes. So something has surely died slowly. I'm going to search for a new Coil to see what costs are. The ICM is newer than the original which I still have. But I will do some tests.
  11. Its bedtime and I just came back from a road test. I got my new spark plug wires and ISA Motor. But nothing changed. It starts up great with the exception that I havent done the ISA adjustment (I've got your PDF handy). So at start it kind of wants turn off so I hold a little gas until the ISA kicks in. It warms up well and drives great. Then after about 15 minutes it starts to kick and eventually not want to drive anymore and turn off. I wait 5 minutes to turn on and go home. Next time a get a break I'll be doing the ICM and coil test.
  12. I did some inspecting on my wires and found some with very rusty connectors. The coil to cap wire was defenitly rusty. I haven't bought any yet because i want to research the type and brand I should use. Autozone has kit for $21 but lately its all chinese like buying stuff from Walmart. If this is my issue I'll be jumping for joy. If not, at least I will put in some quality wires. I re-did my motor and I'm shocked at the condition of the wires. It means one of two things for which I can't remember. 1) I probably looked at the wires and they looked clean enough to re-use or 2) I bought a cheap kit from Pepboys. I know for sure that I put in new spark plugs with the rebuilt motor. I have my doubts regarding climate because it was never an issue in the past 22 years. And I've been out in some really bad rain on the island. One time the Jeep stalled and turned off because I went through too many flooded areas. Water went into the Distr. cap. But I sprayed some WD-40 that day and was on my way when it stopped raining. Right now I just need to know exactly "how" to test my coil and ICM. The one in the jeep is not factory/original. I bought that one a few years back thinking I could enhance performance. According to some people on the internet a coil can test good and still leave you stranded.
  13. Sounds like a good idea. I just need the "how to" test leads and the ICM.
  14. I just finished cleaning/scraping the firewall ground just in case. It's a braided cable that goes from a screw on the firewall (near the MAP) to a screw/nut from the engine block. Since we talk a lot about ground problems. As I mentioned before the ground cables near the oil dip stick I totally cleaned up a while ago since my motor is rebuilt and super clean. But I can also double check those too. So right now I'm going to review the Sinisterwillys1940 post and see if it might help me out.
  15. Finally got an adaptor for my Fuel Pressure tool. I went to a specialized hydraulics shop who had all kinds of adapters. My Jeep clocks at 14.5 PSI and very steady. So following ideas from another post I replaced my Fuel Pressure regulator. It ran great but again starts to sputter and kick after driving for 20 minutes. It used to las 30! I can quickly turn it on by keep my foot on the peddle and continue home for another 7 minutes before it starts kicking again. I'm kind of pissed because the Fuel Regulator kit was $52 (someone here got it for $30 from the same ebay store). I've tested all my sensors and the ISA. All within specs. I cleaned the CPS. The peculiar thing is that every morning it fires up fine with no trouble. You can hear the fuel pump engage with key on, and it starts with little Cranking. It warms up nice and idles at about 10000-900rpms. But at idle, once warm, it will go up and down in rpms slightly. I can even drive like I said for at least 20 minutes. Something seems to fail after some time of driving. Grounds? fuel return line? Injector? Fuel pump plugged up? Something in the tank gets near the sock and causes it to suck less fuel? What could it be? Its keeping me from enjoying the Jeep. Before buying more parts I'm going to bring down the tank and look for obstructions. I definately need a new ISA (rock auto $56) because it's the original and noisy. The idle goes up and down.
  16. Thanks Moses for the tips and votes of confidence. So far so good after 95 miles. I can't do more due to the fuel problem I'm having which I described in my other post (see below): I followed some of the posts here regarding troubleshooting, specifically the very long post who bought the fuel pressure regulator from ebay. I still have the same issue but follow me there as I'm going to post more things I've done which have not helped.
  17. Sorry for being so slow but life happens. Had to tend to priorities and the Jeep was left for last. So I studied a lot of ring & pinion documents, videos and I got a copy of YJ factory service manual on-line. Hard to find but thanks to the Youtube channel Redneck Garage you can download it here: https://goo.gl/ci2Zt5 To me its practically rocket science. But if you have time and take it slow it is definately learnable and doable. As Moses points out the crush sleeve is very important (I ordered 2). I bought the following used parts: 1 Complete Carrier with ring, pinion, bearings, c-clips and shims. I bought new parts too: 1. Seal 2. Outer bearing with racer 3. Shim kit for pinion 4. (2) crush sleeves 5. Pattern paint for the ring 6. Dial indicator tool to measure backlash With a lot of reading and the Service Manual I learned you have to note the new pinion measurement and old pinion measurement (these are explained well in the manual). Basically these are markings that are written by hand on the pinion. In my example my old pinion was a +1 while the new pinion was set at 0. The book provides the calculation and a table that explains how much shimming you have to add or subtract to the pinion. regarding pre-load I was able to obtain 36 inch pounds after crushing the sleeve. Which takes a lot of strength if you're at home and there's not a lot of room under the Jeep. It was on jack stands but it was still limiting to get under and put strength into torking. A shop with a vehicle lift would be a lot more comfortable. I did not have an expander for the differential pumpkin so getting the carrier in needed patience and my rubber malot. I was lucky that I did not need to shim for good backlash. Previous to all this I cleaned the empty differential case very well with Brake Cleaner fluid. Once I got all parts in and torked I tried to obtain a contact pattern. The first one was not good so I started over using a new crush sleeve. The second time I believe I was lucky. Everything fell into place. I actually had to remove shims from the pinion to back it farther away from the ring for a more acceptable pattern. Regarding patterns - you need to know the driver side of the ring teeth and the coast side. The driver side is the convex shape of the tooth while the coast is concave. You should also study where the toe and heel are on the ring. An optimal pattern is centered between the toe and heel and not to high or low. In my research I did find different opinions from reliable sites where this was not always the case. Some factor in used/worn ring and pinions (such as mine) and these produce different patterns which are also acceptable. After assembly and adding gear oil I left the Jeep on the jack stands and started it up. I put in first and went up to 2000rpm to see if I could hear noises or vibrations. So far so good. I then took it for a spin doing slow speeds and feeling the ride. After 4.5 miles I can say it felt pretty good. So far I've done 67 miles of test driving. When I tried the highway I felt vibration over 50mph. But I remembered that during the suspension lift I had adjust the driveshaft angles. I had brought down the tranny skid plate using some shims. So I removed about .5 inch from that and tested the highway speed up to 65mph (No vibrations!). If all is well after maybe 300 miles or so I'm going to open up the differential to look at the gears to make sure things are still good.
  18. Haven't posted for a while now. I purchased parts (used) and did research. There's a new separate post for this so we can see how it goes. http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/984-jeep-yj-25-wrangler-rebuilding-dana-35-axle/ I will need to buy an indicator dial for backlash on the ring and for pinion depth I might just wing it.
  19. Hi All, I've started this new topic as a result of my last nightmare, I mean, topic. Due to budget limits I have purchased a used Differential for the dana 35 and am going back to my regular size tires. You can see in the link below why this all came about. I've never done this repair but I have done a lot of DIY on my Jeep with good success. I'm looking into youtube and the forum for suggestions plus Moses is here with professional advice. I plan on starting tomorrow, just waiting on other parts. Feel free to add suggestions. Thanks.
  20. Great. We have Autozone and Pepboys mainly on the Island. I'll try to get and adapter or maybe even luckier at the hardware store. Thanks Moses!
  21. Just got the Fuel Tester Gauge. Only it doesn't have a fitting that fits in the TBI test port. Anyone know where to find an adapter for this fitting or can I test pressure from where the fuel filter connects? I need options, thanks.
  22. Hi, I'm back with some pictures. You can see the spider gears gone to pieces and in one photo you can see the case pretty chewed up. Even the cross pin is bent (see pic). Not even the ring was saved. See if you can see the missing tooth. There was a bolt/screw that releases the cross pin. this one broke off as I removed it. Per on-line forums and videos it could have been a major headache for some. But luckily for me it must have been already broken so I was able to un-thread the remaining portion easily. Just thought I'd mention that for others. Before going at with bolt extractors or drills and such, try to see if you can turn the remaining piece slowly until its out. Mine was there for 27.5 years. Due to budget I've already purchased a complete used set that came from another Jeep with the same ratio. My buddy Jeep guy also had spare differentials but his price was higher (good friend). I'm waiting for it to arrive. I read all over the internet how the Dana 35 can last and last or just blow up! Being that mine lasted so long on low tires I'm thinking (and my wife is sure!) that the 33" x 12.50 tires was the cause. They are so heavy for the 2.5. Many others say the same.
  23. Thanks Moses. Just for a heads up I will be posting pics soon. I was able to open the cover. One of the spider gears was completely in pieces and others were missing teeth. I could also see the case with some damage and the ring is also missing a tooth or 2. I'm busy this weekend but I can confidently do a complete tear down to share pics of how it blew up. Once I get all the parts (new or used) it doesn't seem too difficult from what I've already read up on. Except for the scientific tools and measurements. Anyway, I will post soon and I will have questions about the install. I think this will be a good post for others who experience loud clanking noises in their jeeps .
  24. Very bad news today. first off thanks for the info on the angle instruments and App. I downloaded the Tremec App and it works pretty good though I didn't play too much with it. I need to find the correct spots on the drive train to get a good reading. Now for the Bad news. I was doing another test run of the Jeep when I received a very loud noise from underneath that shook the Jeep and turned it off. I was doing about 52mph on the highway so I pulled over. After checking underneath and seing everything normal I turn it on again. Turned on OK so a put it in first gear and got another clank when I tried to move but this time it would not move. My gut was telling me I blew the clutch. Tried all gears but nothing! What was strange was that while it was on I could find all my gears by stepping on the clutch. Hmmm? So after a friendly tow stopped by and $40 later it was parked in front of the house. So I tried to move the jeep again and the tow guy asked me to put it in first, leave it on and put the eBrake on. Low and behold the rear shaft was moving the pinion yoke but no movement from the rear wheels! :( So the loud bang was coming from the rear axle all along? I've never done an Axle repair or rebuild so already I've started to search. I've got a feeling its not gonna be too cheap! What you think Moses? Is this an easy DIY?
  25. Thanks Moses. I'm shopping the Pressure tester. I've never checked my ECU connections and I know they are hard to get to because at one time I removed the whole dash board and everything in-between to cure a rain water leak into the cabin. I found the ECU on the passenger side between the glove box and vent apparatus. Very difficult! I remember removing two nuts from the firewall near the battery area to get it loose. I thought the water leak might have affected it but it was in great condition inside and out. I sealed the leak and really don't wanna remove my dash. As far as ground since I did an engine rebuild I already had taken that particular ground near the dipstick and scraped all paint and rust from the nut, wires and engine block in that area and tightened the nut on the wires. Are there other grounds I can check? I know there is one from the firewall to the block which I will double check. Here is a fuel pressure tool I'm looking at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QL8O3G2/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1UMBRA5ZTBCX8 I've removed my tank about 3 times to fix the sender and once replaced the electric fuel pump and sock. But I never did a tank cleaning (Jeep is now almost 28 years old). I didn't actually want to remove the tank again until I could afford a new sender unit as my old one is very jumpy. I can read the fuel gauge when the jeep is still but while riding it just goes up and down. I guess we'll have to wait for the fuel pressure tester.
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