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Found 7 results

  1. My CJ8 is pretty much stock and had not been abused. I have replaced the 4.2 with a fuel injected AMC 360. I grin every time I drive it. The problem with my Jeep's rear-end seems to be axle bearings. They do not seem to make any type of growling noise, but do make a kind of an occasional thunking sound. When it's rolling at speed it is a thunk-------thunk------thunk. Sometimes it goes away or gets louder when I change direction. I did pump some grease into the zirks on the flange that did seem to help once it made its way around the bearing. Seemed to help for maybe 500 miles or so. I am able to hold the wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock position and get a little movement. What really seems odd is that I do have a fair amount of run out at the axles.
  2. This topic is a fork off of my misfire diagnosis thread. I will be editing for easier reading and explaining all the various accesses we have for our DRB III era vehicles. In my opinion that proprietary tool is the biggest burden to a Jeep hobbyist. If anyone has any specific diagnostic tool requests, please post and I will go into depth about it! There are amazing tools available to GM guys and for that reason, many of us are wishing for a GM transplant. Aside from displaying misfire counts on a per cylinder basis, the smart phone apps along with a bluetooth OBDII transmitter will cover that vast majority of needs by anyone troubleshooting problems. The limitation in my case is the simple fact that I want to check if there is an occasional misfire at all times (idle or under load, normal driving, etc). As far as monitoring fuel trim and o2 sensor data, the app based setups are spot on. The minor issue there is the delay in update speed, although very slight it will sometimes show your o2 sensor staying high for 2-3 cycles then low for 2-3 cycles. As long as you understand the delay, you can account for that. WiTech/DRB from China There are Chinese knock off VCI pods that DO work with the DRB III emulator. I haven`t pulled the trigger yet, simply because it is using pirated software. If I don`t find a DRB III in the $1500 or less range, I will order the Chinese part and write up a full review of how to use it without pirated software (if possible) using the DRB III download from Controller Tech http://www.controllertech.com/drb-iii-emulator.html You do get WiTech with the Chinese systems and it is supported up until 2015 or so I believe. They give you the install CD then ask you not to go online, where the WiTech software would phone home and then disable itself. There are two styles - one is the VCI pod style that is corded and a separate unit, then there is the Micropod style that plugs directly into the OBD II space much like any normal bluetooth scan tool would. Starscan: I have talked with this seller on ebay in the past, and he says his system has a good working DRB III emulator built in. You might try contacting him to see if he offers an upgrade service. He seems to buy these devices, upgrades them, then resells them. He assured me that you will never have to subscribe to any service or do any future upgrades once it is ready to go. The only situation you may need to upgrade in the future, is if you change vehicles and want to support something new. In my opinion, having a starscan or drb iii that supports the generation of vehicles I have is good enough. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Chrysler-Jeep-Dodge-Sprinter-Starscan-Star-Scan-Dealer-Tool-DRB-3-/132197792408
  3. Moses, thanks so much for responding. I’ve actually been following many of your posts and articles regarding tuning up the 2.5 TBI. I will check these posts you’ve listed and see where to go from there and provide feedback to this post. Regarding the 2nd issue (Loud sound) I’m really hoping that it’s what you say such as the driveshafts/splines and NOT my renewed motor or Tranny. The motor still goes on and sounds very smooth and the transmission changes gears smooth also. It makes sense that it is a driveshaft sound and how it Rocks the Jeep. For the first time in 27 years while driving it “kicked” and made a loud metallic sound and I felt as if I ran over some huge hole or rock. I could not tell if the sound came from the motor or transmission. But it jerked enough that my radio popped out of place. I stopped to check but there was no hole or rock. Everything under the Jeep was OK – no leaks, dents or missing axles. I really thought something fell off. But the Jeep kept going and the transmission changed fine and 4 minutes later it did again. Background – the motor was recently rebuilt because there was noise from bad piston rods and a bad blow-by problem. The rebuild was pretty good and the motor goes on nicely and idles at about 950RPM. I would really like to cure issue 1 while issue 2 scares the heck out of me. Here are more details on my setup: All driveshafts are original and there is no lift kit. But my tires are huge! I got them cheap and used along with the rims from a fellow worker. I thought they would look great but I also read that it takes a lot more work for the 2.5 Jeep to move them so I can’t go 5th gear unless it’s a pretty leveled highway. Up hill its mostly 3rd or 2nd gear now. Tire specs are 33 x 12.50 R15 (even though using a tape measure I get under 31” high). I lifted by adding 1.25” shackles and a mechanic who is good at bending leaf springs added 2” by bending the factory leaf springs. Only the rear springs. The rear drive-line length is 18.25” from transfer case to U-bolt and the Angle is about 23°. Is that clear info or do I need to measure differently? Other than that, there are no other modifications to chassis or driveshafts. I don’t think the front driveshaft may have made the noise since I wasn’t in 4x4. Is it still possible? Other things I will be checking are transfer and Axle fluids. I did have a front passenger side fluid leak. I’ve attached a picture of the tire. Thanks for your help.
  4. This is driving me nuts..The display on my radio does not light up. A couple of times it came on but now its been off for good I think. The orange wire is the illumination wire and it has no power to it. All the buttons and backlighting work with the dimmer switch..even the radio works but no display because this orange wire..I don't want to start cutting the harness up to find out where the source is. Does anyone know where this orange wire comes from? The light switch ? the ignition switch? All the fuses are good. Could it be a ground wire somewhere? I just want everything to work normally..Im not a big radio fan,just want to hear the news etc. but I don't know what station im on lol
  5. Moses, I made a video of the Snap-on MT2500 scan tool readings maybe this will help in the RPM issue. Here is some history of the 89 Jeep Wrangler YJ 2.5L. I have what i call a hiccup when idling or driving every once in awhile. The engine is usually warm to operation temp and will hesitate or act like it dies ( rpm drop at an idle to 200 rpm or so) while idling in the drive way. Sometimes will die but will start right back up and there is days when it dose this hiccup while i am going 25 or 45 mph or what ever speed and has no rhyme or reason. Here is what I have replace or trouble shoot with a multi-meter (analog and digital meters), i check and replace vacuum hoses where needed and replace 4 small hoses on the TBI. Clean the crank sensor, replace MAT sensor, installed MAP sensor but ended up not using so replace with original. I compression check each cylinder and had 95 to 100 psi per cylinder. I put Seafoam in each cylinder and let sit overnight. Did this twice to get rid of the blow-by and it hasn't consumed any oil in 1000 miles spark plugs look good too, light colored. The Plastic valve cover was replace with an new oil cap as well because of oil being push out thru the oil cap. After the Seafoam treatment I check compression and found it went up to 110 in each cylinder. The engine has no leaks and no noise of any kind that would point towards replacing it. Also put Seafoam in the gas and poured some into the TBI. This seem to work quite will for smoothing out the idle and performance. I have real good acceleration. Previous owner replace the spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap, O2 sensor, belts, and change all drive train fluids to synthetic and oil change with Valvoline 10-30. I Check grounds under hood and they look great. The engine idles about 800 rpm. I borrowed a Snap-on MT2500 and scan it but really nothing stands out. When the jeep is running I wrote down the readings from the MT2500 and notice the ST Fuel trim 126 and LT Fuel trim 133 steady. I listen to the TBI with the air horn off and sounds like a hissing noise when the engine starts to hesitate or stall, but will start right up. Kind of out of answers other than the TBI needs replace and I have plenty of power on the highway and thru the whole power band from start to 80 mph. I removed the gas tank because the sending unit was showing incorrect gas level so I tested the gauge and the sending unit and found the baffle in the tank was the issue, so I removed it and check all the fuel lines and the vents and all is good and not plugged up. Gas gauge reads correct now and it seems to run pretty good today as I drove it for about 10 miles. What is your thoughts, thanks. VID_20161029_134408091.mp4 VID_20161029_134128876.mp4
  6. random, intermittent #1 cylinder misfire. I have replaced the coil-pac, #1 injector, spark plugs, and both upstream O2 sensors. engine leakdown and compression normal though #1 slightly lower in compression. emissions always meet I/M standards (no certificate of waiver needed). have all heat shields including #3 injector so vapor lock not issue. engine runs good when not misfiring though does have a slight roughness noticeable when at idle. Is there any way to check the current of an injector wire or plug while engine is running and showing symptoms to see if all is well in the wiring harness? engine bay is quite clean for 235k mi. and no noticeable damage to wiring harness, but there could be a partial open in a circuit I suppose. Any ideas? don't know where to go from here with repairs/diagnosis etc. Oh, misfire occurs mostly after engine has been under normal-use-load for a couple hours or so, but not always. sometimes it is misfiring at cold-start.
  7. The weather has warmed, and we're not using the block heaters. (They provide approximately 140-degrees F coolant temperature at start-up.) When starting the Jeep XJ Cherokee's 4.0L engine on a relatively cold morning this week, I could hear a subtle misfire. This was during the warm-up/enrichment cycle, and by the time the engine came off the warm-up cycle (around 140-degrees F), the idle stabilized. At highway speeds, the engine seemed to run smoothly in terms of cylinder firing, though there had developed an unusual downshifting habit on grades and strong headwinds. Concerns came up about the TPS or oxygen sensor, maybe even a fuel supply issue. Miles earlier, however, the TPS had been replaced, and the O2 sensor as well. Giving this some thought, I pulled the air filter out. Holding it to sunlight, there was little light showing! The filter was neatly and uniformly clogged. This was the burbling at idle and sluggish on-highway at cruise trouble spot. So why didn't I replace the filter earlier? I change oil and the oil filter on cue, watching the oil color constantly. The air filter, however, gets dismissed when our mileage is mostly highway without dust conditions. In looking at the clogged filter, it was clear that winter "road film" was the culprit, and this can be just as impacting as dust and dirt particles. How did the engine continue to run in this state? Because the marvel of modern EFI has the O2 sensor compensating for air/fuel ratio constantly. Unlike a carbureted engine, which would show symptoms of an over-rich running condition much like running with the choke on, the A/F remains normal with EFI. At highway cruise, especially with an engine that chugs along at only 2,000-2,100 rpm most of the time, there is limited CFM (cubic feet per minute) air flow needed to maintain the A/F at that throttle setting. However, when load demands raise the throttle opening and drop the manifold vacuum at the same time, notably with the cruise control operating, the engine requires a transmission (AW4 in this case) downshift to maintain the A/F ratio constant. This creates the needed power at the expense of fuel efficiency. The dirty filter explained the downshifting on hills and subtle misfire at cold idle during the enrichment cycle. The moral: Check your air filter regardless of the season and whether or not you're driving off-pavement. Of course, when driving off pavement, one trip down a desert alkaline road can clog a brand new air filter. On highway, this does take longer, but with winter road debris and salted roads, the dirt accumulation is equally impacting. It just takes a bit longer to produce symptoms. A good rule-of-thumb for replacing the filter is the factory service interval. In our Jeep 4.0L engine's case, I'm targeting every 3rd or 4th oil change when driving strictly on-highway. For dusty off-pavement conditions, inspect the filter regularly and replace it as soon as necessary. Moses
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