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About Sabueso

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  1. Just plain regular fuel (non-premium). Have no idea where the rust came from but it's 27 years old. I may have to go for a new Plastic Tank. Funny thing, I got the new pump and sending unit but the fuel gauge didn't mark the gas level even after putting in $20 of gas. I was just happy to use the Jeep again. I checked the wires and the Crown pump wires do not match the colors but the connector is correct. I tried different positions with the wires but nothing. At the end of the day the level went up a little but. It could be the floater got stuck. But that's just means I dedicate a few hours next weekend for that. Right now I'm just enjoying the ride. Here's a pic of my wife by the old Red Jeep during our weekend run.
  2. FINAL UPDATE: I believe this issue is finally put to bed! The problem part was the Fuel Pump! (Pics below). These are the kinds of issues that are very hard to troubleshoot and almost always have a logical cause in the end. I actually wanted to check the Fuel pump way in the beginning but hearing the old pump activate every time I turned the ignition key kept me from pulling the tank. Plus, it always ran great for at least 30 minutes or more. So I took down the tank after getting nowhere by replacing the CPS. I pulled the fuel sending unit/pump and as you can see by the pics the unit was completely rusted! I’m sure the ground wires had plenty resistance build from the rust. The pump still went on in the morning but the other day during a test drive and it started to sputter and kick and turn off – I waited 5 minutes and turned the key and listened for the pump. I heard it but not as strong as the morning start up. That’s what made up my mind to bring down the fuel tank. I bought a new one from Quadratec (Crown model for the YJ 2.5 1990). I ran my test yesterday. Went around the Island and did 128 miles. Used the jeep for about 3 hours – no problems!! Lessons Learned: Electric and Fuel related Issues on these Jeeps can be similar and caused by different parts. Be patient. The issue will show its ugly head. Just keep trying. The right tools – Fuel pressure gauge, multi-meter, good ratchets, wrenches, impact gun, Hydraulic Jack. On specialty tools I’d say – measure the cost of the job. If a mechanic will cost less than buying the tool for DIY and it’s not a recurring issue don’t buy it. Also, buying a specialty tool for testing a specific part and the part itself doesn’t cost so much I’d rather just buy the part. Replacing an old part is not a bad idea. But that’s just me. This was a long post (since February) but I’m sure that people with more time could have resolved it sooner. I’m a weekend warrior and weekday code monkey so time is scarce. Thanks Moses for your expertise and patience.
  3. No oil leaks yet. I re-did the motor last summer and haven't driven much due to these problems. But my driveway is oil-free! Having the Jeep since 1990 I've experienced leaking rear main seals a few times. Right now everything in there is super clean. And even with a leaky main seal the Jeep always ran for good long time. In the PDF you sent me before I could see the CPS test. I'll try that test with a warm engine. Thanks again Moses. I'm feeling closer everytime.
  4. Another update. I've done a lot of searching on the forums looking for someone with a similar issue. Finally found someone which made sense. I don't have the link, but since this person had the same stall issue after only 30 minutes or so. In fact he stated he could set his watch to the problem. It would act up after 30 minutes of driving. Turned out to be his CPS even though it was a Cherokee, but the CPS was the same as mine. I did more reading and found that a CPS can develop "thermal failure". They can test good and turn on when cold but will leave you stranded down the road from heat or vibration. Can you elaborate more on this Moses? Does it sound logical? I've only replaced mine once and then it was because my cables got cut when I repaired the tranny. But I kept the original. So yesterday I spliced and soldered the cables from my old one to the connector of the replacement. Went for a test but it acted the same after 30 minutes. I think both are bad - my original is pretty old from 1990. The replacement is just Pepboys type that might not be the best and it's over 5 years old. I really think this could be it. The Jeep drives so well for the first 25 minutes. When I installed my original CPS and tested I could actually feel a stronger performance. It was doing 3rd gear going uphill! According to a video, testing ohms at connections B & C should produce NO resistance. On both CPS' I did get some resistance (.209 and .241). Bottom line, I'm gonna buy a new one.
  5. Actually I eliminated the emissions timer many years ago. At the time I found it very inconvenient to have a timer that can't be reset and its only purpose is to let you know to check your emissions. At a cost of $120! I never had a problem without the timer for many years. Whenever I suspect the O2 sensor I replace it and the Jeep immediately performs much better. Because of work and my weekend job (My band Gigs every weekend ), I barely get time to deal with the Jeep. I may take a day off just for that. I'm going to try the Relay switching and maybe buy a new one, and I'm going to check everything regarding the fuel tank. I read on another forum that the return line can sometimes be the culprit if it gets blocked somehow. I will also do the connections at the ECU with contact cleaner and any other contacts that might need cleaning. And of course the injector. Been meaning to test the spray pattern. Thanks for the info on the MAT. I think I found one based on part number everyone mentions on the internet. I bought it on Amazon and they agreed to the return. But one thing about the old MAT - I removed it after my last test and put it aside. It got cold really quick cause the tip is plastic so I measured for Ohms and I got almost 4K! But since the motor was still hot after the drive I screwed the MAT back in by hand and checked the ohms. I watched it go down to .683 ohms! That's a good reading for the MAT with a warm engine right? Frustrating yes, but I'm not giving up! Thanks Moses.
  6. Update! Rather than buy yet another tool for testing I bought a new coil. Ran great for 20 minutes. Then spit and stall. Waited 10 minutes and started. Ran another 10 minutes before stalling. Since it stopped in front of the vegetable store i bought some lemons, started the Jeep and made it home (5 minutes). So new spark plug wires, new coil, new fuel pressure regulator. I really need to get this right. I'm not buying the coil/ICM problem since the jeep reacts exactly the same with 2 different ICMs and the new coil and wires. The weather where I leave is not that humid/hot. I live close to the hills where the temperature is bearable. And this Jeep has always been on the cool side. I have a larger aluminum radiator installed and the engine stays between 195 and 200 F. It seems to be a time syndrome. I get 20 minutes per ride before it cuts out. Could it be a fuel pump relay get tired after a while? Should I go back to checking fuel problems? I've never changed the injector because it behaves great for a while. But I might as well test it. Bye the way, I got the wrong MAT in the mail. Looks exact but the thread is bigger than my original. Any idea what my thread measurement is for the MAT? Frustrated!
  7. Justed tested a long ride with old ICM installed. Same kick/stall. Ive got 2 ICMs. I dont think both are identically bad. You mentioned ICMs or ECUs work or they don't. I'm betting on the coil. But I might get the MAT first or both. My next item is testing the coil spark.
  8. BTW - Here's one I found on Amazon. The part number doesn't match the ones listed from another member's post regarding Jeep YJ MAT but Amazon had it as a related item. https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-Temperature-25036751-Connector/dp/B00E5PLAVO/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00E5PLAVO&pd_rd_r=AMMT2W7QC6G15HFD6WMC&pd_rd_w=BAEtw&pd_rd_wg=hw6pP&psc=1&refRID=AMMT2W7QC6G15HFD6WMC
  9. I found my old ICM. the original Bendix brand made in France. I installed it just to see if it does the same thing so I can rule out the ICM. It turned on as usual and had great power and idled fine. But I couldnt do a long drive because it was too late at night (Bed time). I will test with the old ICM and write here again. If it stalls after high temperature then all points to the ignition coil, right? I also pulled the MAT sensor because its the only original sensor on the Jeep. Been there since 1990 and it didn't look bad except for dirt/grime. I cleaned it with Brake cleaner which probably finished off . I'm planning to get a new one which are hard to find. Do you think a bad MAT can cause this kick/sputter/stall problem?
  10. I think it might be good to share some history with this issue. It goes back about 4 years (2013/2014). I used to work as an inspector for AT&T mobility installs. This means I needed a vehicle to reach remote areas of Puerto Rico where their antenna towers are located. It gave my 4wd a lot of use due to the improvised roads. Anyway, everytime I traveled for more than 2 hours and turn off the jeep it would not immediately start back up. It would take about 20 minutes and start backup and drive normal. As time went on it began not wanting to go more than 1 hour before the problem returned. Last summer I did a motor overhaul because of noisy piston rods and 400k miles of good use. The problem went from 45 minutes last summer to now 20 minutes. So something has surely died slowly. I'm going to search for a new Coil to see what costs are. The ICM is newer than the original which I still have. But I will do some tests.
  11. Its bedtime and I just came back from a road test. I got my new spark plug wires and ISA Motor. But nothing changed. It starts up great with the exception that I havent done the ISA adjustment (I've got your PDF handy). So at start it kind of wants turn off so I hold a little gas until the ISA kicks in. It warms up well and drives great. Then after about 15 minutes it starts to kick and eventually not want to drive anymore and turn off. I wait 5 minutes to turn on and go home. Next time a get a break I'll be doing the ICM and coil test.
  12. I did some inspecting on my wires and found some with very rusty connectors. The coil to cap wire was defenitly rusty. I haven't bought any yet because i want to research the type and brand I should use. Autozone has kit for $21 but lately its all chinese like buying stuff from Walmart. If this is my issue I'll be jumping for joy. If not, at least I will put in some quality wires. I re-did my motor and I'm shocked at the condition of the wires. It means one of two things for which I can't remember. 1) I probably looked at the wires and they looked clean enough to re-use or 2) I bought a cheap kit from Pepboys. I know for sure that I put in new spark plugs with the rebuilt motor. I have my doubts regarding climate because it was never an issue in the past 22 years. And I've been out in some really bad rain on the island. One time the Jeep stalled and turned off because I went through too many flooded areas. Water went into the Distr. cap. But I sprayed some WD-40 that day and was on my way when it stopped raining. Right now I just need to know exactly "how" to test my coil and ICM. The one in the jeep is not factory/original. I bought that one a few years back thinking I could enhance performance. According to some people on the internet a coil can test good and still leave you stranded.
  13. Sounds like a good idea. I just need the "how to" test leads and the ICM.
  14. I just finished cleaning/scraping the firewall ground just in case. It's a braided cable that goes from a screw on the firewall (near the MAP) to a screw/nut from the engine block. Since we talk a lot about ground problems. As I mentioned before the ground cables near the oil dip stick I totally cleaned up a while ago since my motor is rebuilt and super clean. But I can also double check those too. So right now I'm going to review the Sinisterwillys1940 post and see if it might help me out.
  15. Finally got an adaptor for my Fuel Pressure tool. I went to a specialized hydraulics shop who had all kinds of adapters. My Jeep clocks at 14.5 PSI and very steady. So following ideas from another post I replaced my Fuel Pressure regulator. It ran great but again starts to sputter and kick after driving for 20 minutes. It used to las 30! I can quickly turn it on by keep my foot on the peddle and continue home for another 7 minutes before it starts kicking again. I'm kind of pissed because the Fuel Regulator kit was $52 (someone here got it for $30 from the same ebay store). I've tested all my sensors and the ISA. All within specs. I cleaned the CPS. The peculiar thing is that every morning it fires up fine with no trouble. You can hear the fuel pump engage with key on, and it starts with little Cranking. It warms up nice and idles at about 10000-900rpms. But at idle, once warm, it will go up and down in rpms slightly. I can even drive like I said for at least 20 minutes. Something seems to fail after some time of driving. Grounds? fuel return line? Injector? Fuel pump plugged up? Something in the tank gets near the sock and causes it to suck less fuel? What could it be? Its keeping me from enjoying the Jeep. Before buying more parts I'm going to bring down the tank and look for obstructions. I definately need a new ISA (rock auto $56) because it's the original and noisy. The idle goes up and down.
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