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Mr. Moses, I don't know if you still read or reply to these questions, but I have a couple about my amc20 axle shimming. I read just about everything I could find and still have a couple questions. I took everything apart to replace my oil seals on axle shafts. My first question is what is the purpose of installing shims on drivers side only or can the shims be installed on the passenger side only? The reason I'm asking this is because my bearing race on drivers side slides in housing real easy--no pressure needed and my bearing race on passenger side slides in only about a quarter inch before having to tap it in the rest of the way. My thinking is if I install shims on drivers side, it might allow the race to spin in tube and if I install the shims on passenger side the race fits tight enough that it won't spin. Any answer to these questions would be greatly appreciated because I'm so ready to finish this project. Thanks in advance.
Hello all: my wife wants to relieve her glory days, so we are now the proud owners of a 1983 CJ-7. I found a lot of issues with the AMC rear end. It had a leak on the drives side that was spilling diff fluid everywhere. While I was attempting to figure out what was going on I found that most of the parts were totally crap so I ditched almost everything from the axles out and bought new parts (axles are the correct length). Now that I have inserted the new axils I am finding that my endplay is .090 with no shims installed, and I am confused as how to proceed. attached are photos of the left and right side. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Tim.
Moses, thanks so much for responding. I’ve actually been following many of your posts and articles regarding tuning up the 2.5 TBI. I will check these posts you’ve listed and see where to go from there and provide feedback to this post. Regarding the 2nd issue (Loud sound) I’m really hoping that it’s what you say such as the driveshafts/splines and NOT my renewed motor or Tranny. The motor still goes on and sounds very smooth and the transmission changes gears smooth also. It makes sense that it is a driveshaft sound and how it Rocks the Jeep. For the first time in 27 years while driving it “kicked” and made a loud metallic sound and I felt as if I ran over some huge hole or rock. I could not tell if the sound came from the motor or transmission. But it jerked enough that my radio popped out of place. I stopped to check but there was no hole or rock. Everything under the Jeep was OK – no leaks, dents or missing axles. I really thought something fell off. But the Jeep kept going and the transmission changed fine and 4 minutes later it did again. Background – the motor was recently rebuilt because there was noise from bad piston rods and a bad blow-by problem. The rebuild was pretty good and the motor goes on nicely and idles at about 950RPM. I would really like to cure issue 1 while issue 2 scares the heck out of me. Here are more details on my setup: All driveshafts are original and there is no lift kit. But my tires are huge! I got them cheap and used along with the rims from a fellow worker. I thought they would look great but I also read that it takes a lot more work for the 2.5 Jeep to move them so I can’t go 5th gear unless it’s a pretty leveled highway. Up hill its mostly 3rd or 2nd gear now. Tire specs are 33 x 12.50 R15 (even though using a tape measure I get under 31” high). I lifted by adding 1.25” shackles and a mechanic who is good at bending leaf springs added 2” by bending the factory leaf springs. Only the rear springs. The rear drive-line length is 18.25” from transfer case to U-bolt and the Angle is about 23°. Is that clear info or do I need to measure differently? Other than that, there are no other modifications to chassis or driveshafts. I don’t think the front driveshaft may have made the noise since I wasn’t in 4x4. Is it still possible? Other things I will be checking are transfer and Axle fluids. I did have a front passenger side fluid leak. I’ve attached a picture of the tire. Thanks for your help.
I am currently in the process of fitting a ford 8.8 with the necessary brackets to fit under the rear of my 01 Jeep TJ. In the interest of keeping cost down, I have decided to simply regear my front dana 30 to match. But before I run out and buy parts, I have a few questions. 1st, is that my rear 8.8 is a 4:10 ratio, and most sets I see for the 30 are 4:10 as well. I have been told that I have to offset my front to a 4:11 for some reason, but no one can explain why. all I've heard so far is that a 1% offset in ratio is "ok". is a matched ratio ok as well? if not, what do I do about this? 2nd, I believe that my current gearing in the D30 is 3:07. it is my understanding that I will have to swap to a different carrier to accommodate the 4:10 gearing. I have found carriers for roughly $100, but they are bare. What do I need in addition to the carrier and R&P in order to install into my housing?