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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. Carlosa...Glad you got results. The aftermarket sensor issue is epidemic. Apparently, the voltage and ohms parameters are wrong. It's likely that suppliers are cataloging parts to meet a variety of vehicle/engine applications, creating this kind of trouble. I'm especially leery of X-brands from offshore, though its not necessarily the foreign manufacturers' fault as much as the attempt to make these parts fit a wider range of applications. Summing it up as shared earlier, I cross the OEM part to the OEM suppliers' part number and get the OE equivalent part: I buy Bosch, NTK and other major brands if pricing is better than the Mopar labeled part. During the Great Recession, even classically valued brands like AC/Delco went down in both quality and fitment accuracy. When otherwise not available, buy OEM Jeep/Mopar parts. Moses
  2. BadDriver4x4...Chrysler product or not, sounds like rust has taken its toll on this Liberty KJ. There was a time when the Rust Belt was limited to the Midwest, but the insidious use of salt and brine on winter roads has spread across the country. Our home State of Nevada, one of the driest and least likely states in the country to see rust develop on a vehicle, is now headed into the abyss. Highways, roads and the Interstates are getting a thorough saturation with brine before each winter storm, and the brine becomes live and active when rain, sleet or snow arrive. In the past few decades, vehicle manufacturers have used more galvanized and niche metals or plastics for rust resistance, but they are hardly a match for salt brine and crystals. We need to press for the elimination of oxidizing corrosives on winter highways. As ingenious as chemical manufacturers can be, there must be cost-effective ways to combat ice and snow on highways without using rust-causing agents. As for Chrysler, some of their vehicles are less evil than the competition. No better way to put it. Our 2005 Dodge Ram/Cummins 3500 4x4 (purchased new) has many virtues along with its share of engineering shortfalls. On the downside, I have dealt with the weaknesses of the 48RE automatic transmission, the power steering gear and the driveshafts. At some point soon, I will remove the entire dash assembly to fix the flaps and actuator mechanisms in the HVAC assembly. The telltale lack of floor-directed heat is just one sign that the plastic HVAC parts are crumbling. This problem is epidemic...Really? Compared to competitive brands, we're "better off". Were this a G.M. or Ford diesel pickup built that same year, I could be facing major, chronic engine troubles. The Ford 6.0L diesel is an utter disaster. The G.M. Duramax is no panacea. Next to our Cummins 5.9L or a 6.7L, I'm the winner. I also like the front beam axle of the Ram—AAM's 9.25". I've only recently replaced the two unit hub bearings at 163K miles. Though some Ram 4x4 owners have dealt with ball-joint and steering linkage trouble, these systems are still intact on our truck. I understand your point, though I'll take it a step further. People either want or have been coerced and mandated into wanting much more car-like "content" on light trucks and SUVs. They expect car-like ease of operation and trinkets. This ultimate leads to trouble and expensive repairs. The focus of this magazine and its forums is consumer support, and I would be quick to note that we would all be better off, at least from a vehicle maintenance, service access and long term cost standpoint, with 1970s and to some degree 1980s 4x4 technology. If you want to control the "climate" in your pickup truck or SUV with just a single knob, you may get to remove the massive dash assembly to access and fix the HVAC. Our 2005 Ram and 1999 XJ Cherokee are each "experiments". If they do not deliver well or fall short in the ease of repair realm, they will be our last late model vehicles. As a point of interest, the models that have served us best in the past were 1971-91 beam front axle G.M. 4x4s, which include the K10/1500, the K20/2500 and K5 SUVs. These were non-IFS, conventional pickup, Suburban and Blazer/Jimmy trucks that held up remarkably well and could be readily serviced when necessary—which wasn't too often or "out of the blue" like the Ram's plastic heater/AC blending, ventilation and re-circulation flaps just waiting to fail. My favorite 4x4 picks of the G.M. bunch were the 1971-79 models, followed by 1980-86 pickups and the Suburbans or Blazers through 1991. For Ford aficionados, I'd stick to the 1976-79 F-series 4x4s. In the future, we might find ourselves driving a restored 1987-91 Suburban 3/4-ton 4x4, a '71-'86 Chevy/GMC SWB 1/2-ton 4x4 or a '71-'86 3/4-ton G.M. 4x4 pickup. We'll see how much humor I have left after removing the entire dash assembly to upgrade the plastic and nylon HVAC flaps on our Ram. Moses
  3. Nelnoc...When you changed the distributor, did you restore its phase/indexing with the camshaft? There is a distinct method for setting up the distributor on your 1995 2.5L MPI engine: Jeep 2.5L MPI Distributor R&R.pdf The distributor/rotor position, crankshaft position sensor and MAP must be synchronized. Otherwise, spark timing will be off. In your case, a timing error could be glaring when MAP applies. Begin the process by setting #1 piston on TDC of the compression stroke. This has both valves closed and the crank position sensor indexed properly. Follow the attached Mopar PDF guidelines, using the "Engine Rotated After Removal" instructions. Properly index the distributor and rotor with #1 piston at TDC. You can index the oil pump drive shaft if necessary by rotating the drive slot with a large screwdriver. Moses
  4. Quenching oil

    Budi...I did some quick research and found a paper/abstract that is helpful for your question. See this article and the conclusions: https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-3-642-03653-8_268 Let me know if this answers your concern. Moses
  5. MomoJeep...Thanks for the link on beam cutoff, many will benefit. I like science! Please keep us informed on your findings with these H4 lights. I'm very curious. They sound traditional and proven. The Jeep CJ's single lamps are a very good test...Hella has great products. Moses
  6. If you have lift springs, when you look at your Jeep from the side, the frame and body will look higher than stock. Let us know what you find...
  7. This does sound like no pump suction, which on an E4OD could be the internal oil pump screen—either restricted or blocked. Accessing the oil pump screen (not the service replacement filter) requires the equivalent of a rebuild on the E4OD transmission. Before taking it that far, do a test gauge pressure check of line pressure and other external pressure port tests. Port tests are a quick and reliable way to narrow down a shift or overall performance issue. Since you note elsewhere that the transmission does not slip (great!), line pressure and pressure tests in each gear mode would be valuable, help narrow down the problem and preserve the transmission.
  8. I would do a transmission control module scan for trouble codes. If you read through our extensive discussion of E4OD troubles, spread over several topics, there are a variety of electronic and shift control prospects. Do not spend good money on guesswork parts replacement. An ECM/TCM scan can often turn up a single issue that can be readily fixed. No slippage is a very good thing! It's possible you have caught the problem before hard transmission parts damage. Sounds like shift signals are involved in the solution. A guess? I would check the shift module and wires or the shift shaft. Look for trouble codes. Moses
  9. Superwinch...When any automatic transmission slips this much and has this amount of friction material in the pan, its lifespan is marked. One look at the clutch pack frictions and the thin band material close-up, it's apparent that slippage of any kind will quickly cause transmission failure. Your buy some time fluid and filter change, including the long overdue band adjustment, did gain some time. In my experience, you will find a large amount of additional friction material in the pan after 7,000 miles of additional driving. If there is slip between 1st and 2nd gear during the upshift, this is likely a band and clutch pack issue. Worn clutch frictions also reduce the apply pressure on the clutch packs, so slip is more likely. You might check the throttle pressure setting, the throttle valve adjustment or cable adjustment. You can also invest in a test pressure gauge and follow the factory pressure checks for line pressure and the hydraulic pressure in each gear. Low pressure will cause slip. This late point in the wear pattern, I would plan on rebuilding the transmission. This is a basic Chrysler 904/999 or 30RH/32RH rebuild. Whether you sublet the work or attempt the build on your own, this is a basic unit without complications or expensive parts. If you catch the wear at the right point, you can reduce the need for hard parts. If this were my transmission, I'd have my workbench clear and ready for a rebuild project. Be sure to install a new or rebuilt torque converter. It's assumed that debris has contaminated the entire transmission unit. Be certain to have the transmission cooler flushed at the same time. The Jeep looks very clean and worth a transmission rebuild. At 177K miles, a 32RH rebuild would be expected. Moses
  10. Shotgun Jimmy...You'll need to compare part numbers for the two steering columns, steering shafts, etc. Or at least compare an I-H donor vehicle's steering column. I'm not clear about the G.M. parts interchangeability with your 1210 front axle. G.M. 3/4-ton front axles have 8-lug wheels and disc brakes, but you need to confirm the fit of the knuckles, steering linkage and all other parts. The '74-'76 I-H 200 series 4x4 trucks would likely be closer in design to your 1973 1210. Compare '74-up 200 series 4x4 components to your chassis. Part numbers are not the same as G.M., although you could compare G.M. axles, their track width, brake caliper/rotor style, brake master cylinder, combination valve and so forth. 200 series I-H 4x4 front disc brake assemblies might be a better choice, perhaps a complete front axle swap from a 200 series 4x4. You'll need a master cylinder for disc front brakes/drum rear. The combination valve is also different between 4-wheel drum and disc front/drum rear brakes. Moses
  11. Nelnoc...There's no way to turn off the PCM's MAP function. It's possible that the PCM has either a poor connection or defect. When you add the MAP signal, the engine performance goes haywire, right? The MAP is also affected by the throttle position sensor (TPS) and the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Defects at either of these devices can impact MAP functions. TPS sensors do wear out. Test the TPS and the VSS. There is, of course, a possibility that the MAP sensor is defective or even the PCM. Do not throw money at these devices before ruling out a TPS switch defect. If that doesn't do it, I would pursue a connection issue. Disconnect the 60-way connector at the PCM. Look for debris, corrosion or any "black" coating, which is oxidation or corrosion. Use a spray electrical cleaner and fine ScotchBrite pad, not anything abrasive (no scrapers, screw drivers or knives!), to remove oxidation and debris. Plug the connector back into the PCM. Moses
  12. This is the normal orientation of the springs, big eye facing the front. The lower shackle bolt location is close to stock, this should not create much change in vehicle height. Compare the spring center bolt location with the stock springs. The bolt location determines where the axle sets. These do look like aftermarket "lift springs" which would drop the axle position and raise the chassis height. How much lift is this? Arched springs pull the driveshaft rearward. This is why the driveshaft length must change with anything beyond a very mild chassis lift.
  13. Normally, with stock springs, you could not reverse them readily; the front spring eye is larger than the rear spring eye. With aftermarket springs, however, the eyes could be the same diameter and allow the spring to be reversed. Compare the spring eye diameters...Also, measure from the center of each spring eye to the center bolt/locating pin of the spring where it aligns with the axle spring perch. On the rear spring set, you want the short length of the springs to face forward. If the springs are different lengths from the center bolt to the spring eye centers, and if you put the long end forward, the axle would set too far rearward. This would pull the rear driveshaft outward from the transfer case output splines. Also, if the shackles ("lift" shackles as you describe them) are too long, the axle could drop enough to pull the driveshaft rearward—especially if the springs have more arch than stock. Overall, you want to maintain the Jeep's original wheelbase length. The YJ Wrangler has a 93.4" wheelbase. This is the measurement between the front and rear axle/wheel center lines with the front wheels pointed straight ahead. If you're unclear about the rear axle position, measure your wheelbase length. Keep in mind that any time you "lift" the vehicle with a chassis/spring lift, the axles drop lower, and the driveshafts become short. Too short and you need longer driveshafts, and this is more likely at the rear of a Jeep YJ Wrangler. With a chassis/suspension lift, it is very common to install a slip yoke eliminator kit*. See details on the Advance Adapters SYE Kit: http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/np231-sye--new-process-231j-fixed-yoke-kit-50-7906--50-7907/. The page features a video on installing the AA SYE Kit in an NP/NV231 transfer case like yours. *Note: With a fixed yoke output at the NP231 transfer case, a longer CV-style rear driveshaft is also installed on the Jeep XJ Cherokee, YJ Wrangler or TJ Wrangler. Here is my lifted XJ Cherokee with AA SYE and a CV rear driveline: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-How-to-Installing-a-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Long-Arm-Suspension-Lift?r=1. See how this all goes together with aftermarket springs. Moses
  14. If the driveshaft is too short now, it could be the rear springs and/or shackles dropping the axle too much. Or the leaf springs' axle locating pins are in the wrong position (too far rearward). In any case, if the only change you made was the rear leaf springs and/or shackles, that's enough to pull the splined slip yoke coupler rearward from the transfer case's output shaft splines. Long shackles, since they're at the rear of the Wrangler's rear springs, will also do this. Make sure that the springs are not installed backward (front and rear spring eyes reversed). The spring axle perch locating pins are not at the middle of these springs. They are offset in one direction. If the springs were installed backward, the axle would set rearward, which would pull the slip yoke loose at the transfer case output splines. Moses
  15. SinisterWillys1940...If the rear springs now have more arch or the rear axle's location point has moved, you could have a rear driveline issue. This is a slip yoke driveshaft, so moving the axle can cause the driveshaft to pull out from the transfer case splines. The slip yoke could be ratcheting, or the U-joint angle could be too sharp. Or the angles of the front and rear U-joints (at the rear driveshaft) could be wrong. If the springs changed the pinion shaft angle, the rear driveshaft's U-joints could be at non-cancelling angles (not the same) or out of phase. With the Jeep parked at curb height, wheels weighted, look at the rear driveshaft from the side view. Compare the front and rear U-joint angles. Note the position of the coupler/slip yoke to see whether it has retracted (moved outward) from its original position. If the rear driveshaft is too short now, the slip coupler could be partially engaged in the transfer case's output splines. Or the U-joints could be binding. Check whether the rear driveshaft angle is too steep, causing the driveshaft to bang on the skid plate or bind the U-joint(s). Moses
  16. William, the R&R at Florida with your supportive wife looks like a wonderful and relaxing time! Glad you did it... The manual controller looks durable and simple. Simpler the better. This will be a dependable system before you're done, and I really like the manual override feature. Smart and fail-safe! Moses
  17. Nelnoc...The MAP sensor provides a vacuum signal/electrical value to the PCM. When intake manifold pressure changes the voltage signal from the MAP sensor, the PCM responds. The signal tells the PCM what the barometric pressure is in the intake manifold. The MAP vacuum signal should be from an intake manifold source. (See illustrations in the PDF below.) Verify the vacuum circuits. You may be using another source for the MAP, like TBI ported vacuum, and this would be incorrect. The reading should be directly from the intake manifold port. Ported vacuum at an idle would provide a low MAP vacuum reading that would suggest the engine is under load. Check this out with a vacuum diagram for your MPI 2.5L engine. You may have a routing issue that is providing the PCM with an incorrect vacuum source signal that adversely affects the air/fuel ratio, idle stability and performance. Also, be certain to check the voltage and ohms resistance readouts for the Air Temperature Sensor, which screws directly into the intake manifold. Here is a PDF of MAP and Air Temperature Sensor tests: Jeep 2.5L MPI MAP and Air Temp Sensors.pdf Let us know whether this helps... Moses
  18. If the shift chatter is actually slippage of any kind, likely a clutch pack issue, the transmission is on short time. The E4OD at 159K miles, especially if towing was in its history with that 460 V-8 engine, is probably due for a rebuild. The seller is being forthright, but I disagree with a shop saying that it needs to become a bigger problem. The low pressure apply (rpm-related) is very rough on clutch packs; clutch frictions require readily available, "instant" compression force to prevent slippage. This could be a throttle pressure issue or may have started there. When operated over time in that state, however, the clutch packs will fail. It would at least be wise to drop the transmission pan to look for clutch friction debris and possible metal. This would not be a major job, perhaps you and the owner could get together on inspecting the transmission at that level. If so, make sure the fluid wasn't just changed, you do need some miles on the fluid to turn up clutch friction material sloughing. An excess of friction material in the pan or signs of metal debris are a clear call for a rebuild. Moses
  19. Great model and a classic 4x4, wrwest757! For a front wheel brake to seize, there must be either: 1) an obstruction between the caliper and rotor, 2) dragging pads, 3) trapped fluid in the caliper or 4) a seizing caliper piston(s). Trapped fluid can be a defective master cylinder or a brake pedal/booster rod that is not adjusted properly and holds/traps fluid in the lines. If the Scout II set up for a long period before you bought it, there could be debris, corrosion or rust in the braking system. I would do more than just change the brake fluid, which should be done by bleeder valve vacuum evacuation at the front calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Since the right front wheel brake seized up, I would remove and rebuild or replace the front calipers after thorough vacuum flushing the brake system with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. You may be able to rebuild the calipers. If they are too damaged or pitted in their bores, or if the pistons are corroded, you will need new calipers and likely new pads and either rotor resurfacing or rotor replacement. Make sure the master cylinder is safe, along with the rest of the brake hydraulic system. Sounds like you need to remove the rear brake drums and take a close look at the rear brakes to be safe. Hands clean, gently roll back the rear brake wheel cylinder dust boots to see whether brake fluid is seeping past the rubber cups. If in doubt, rebuild or replace the rear wheel cylinders after vacuum flushing the hydraulic system first. The vehicle is well worth brake restoration. Steering and brakes are the most important safety issues. Moses
  20. CJ7 Winter Remodel

    Good to see you back, 60Bubba! The Jeep looks great, your family is settled and "home" for the foreseeable future. Doesn't get any better...See my comments below:
  21. Four-Wheeling Australia's Holland Track

    Wow, essential that you had a land anchor, Ian! I carry a Pull Pal when heading for this kind of challenge. Your tool looks effective and gets the job done. These tools can work equally well in hard pan, to a degree in snow/ice and even some types of sand...a quick solution and safety tool! Thanks for sharing... Moses
  22. Soft top hardware

    Bo, try these search returns, there are several new and used parts resources for the Samurai: https://www.google.com/search?q=suzuki+samurai+parts&oq=suzuki+samurai+parts&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.13024j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Let us know if this turns up a solution! Moses
  23. James, headlights are a time-honored issue. I just got back from the SEMA Show where I met with 3M folks and discussed their headlight shield polishing compounds for "modern" plastics that deteriorate and cloud over time. In many ways, headlights are no better today than in the Jeep CJ era. Your observations about LED lamps is insightful, especially their failure to defrost! I like the European products but have also experienced the issue of beam cutoff. In fact, the diffusion hoods/caps on OEM halogen headlamp bulbs like our 2005 Ram 3500 create a light beam(s) that are diffused, all over the place instead of straight down the road and, frankly, the worst headlamps of any sealed beam vehicle I've ever driven. Add to that the clouding lamp covers, and you have a safety hazard. I'd like others to jump into this discussion and share their experiences on this universal problem. Thanks, James, for airing the subject. Let's see how others have solved these headlamp dilemmas. Moses
  24. William, this is a very well thought out cooling system, nice job. One cooling obstacle would be air flow restriction through the radiator core created by the double-fan's shroud system. You can judge here, you know the efficiency and cooling effect. Also, there is no full shroud, so the fans are not creating core air flow from above and below the fan assembly. If that's not creating a cooling efficiency issue, it makes no difference. Being practical, if the system works well, you've met the goal. I do recognize the inline six's proximity to the radiator. You're making the best of that limited space. Your idea of a manual switch bypass makes good sense. This will enable fan function if the controller fails. Your wiring diagram looks thorough, I really like the idea of each fan having a different cooling range, that way there's not the extreme of full-on and full-off only. Dakota Digital's controller allows experimenting with the temp ranges. Dakota Digital is reputable and big in the custom vehicle market, they've been around for quite a while now with speedometer solutions, controls and other problem solvers. I would trust the PAC 2750 product, especially with your fail safe manual switch override. I like your thoroughness and wiring schematic, it should help others. Thanks for sharing! As a footnote, if your radiator and water pump efficiency are adequate, the fan system should not need to operate above 25-30 mph vehicle speed in most instances. Try switching off the fans at road speeds to confirm this. If the radiator core gets enough air flow and the GPM flow rate of the radiator meets the engine's needs, the fans should not need to run at road speeds unless ambient temperature or engine load are quite high. If the fans are running, consider whether the fan assembly itself is blocking air flow through the core. Moses
  25. Nice photo of the CJ, William! First off, I'm not a fan of electric fans used in place of a mechanical, engine-driven fan. For back country vehicles, I have always run a mechanical fan, ample radiator and a sensible shroud that will carry the entire cooling load of the engine. You're putting out somewhere around 160 horsepower max, and that's 45 BTUs per horsepower—not a great amount of radiator/mechanical fan/shroud work to cool. Are you using the electric fan exclusively or in conjunction with a factory mechanical fan? Do you have room for a HD fan clutch and engine-driven fan? Do you have a serpentine belt or V-belt drive system? I'm sure there are reliable temp sensed switches to operate the electric cooling fan if you continue with that approach. I would look at Jeg's or Summit Racing catalogs. I'm a Summit Racing customer, as the Western distribution warehouse is only 32 miles away. In fact, I stopped at Sparks this evening for some parts. These are Summit Racing items that caught my attention in a two-minute search of their website catalog: https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/fbr-fb403/overview/ or https://www.summitracing.com/nv/search/part-type/fan-switches-thermal?retaillocation=nv&tw=fan&sw=Fan Switches%2C Thermal In the second link you'll find a roster of controllers, switches and even a very simple sensor that goes on at 185-degrees F and off at 165-degrees F. You'll get ideas from this list. Derale and others have a lot of experience in this field. Let us know what you plan to do here. If you need to share photos of your existing cooling system for feedback, please do so. Moses
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