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Moses Ludel

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Everything posted by Moses Ludel

  1. 57 willys pick up another project

    Ian, I understand how the cost of an original Willys bed and rear fenders would be exorbitant at Australia. One option that's gaining popularity in the U.S. is the flatbed conversion. Many Willys pickups actually did have flat beds for ranch and utility use. Just a thought...You're handy with fit and modifications, a flatbed done right could look right and be functional. Case in point, a good friend at Reno, Nevada just bought a '17 Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 and immediately replaced the stock bed with a flatbed and head rack conversion. His aim is a custom camper mounted on the flatbed, another approach that's gaining popularity here. Moses
  2. Arby123...The circlip is a likely clue. Check all transmission internal shift linkage and parts alignment. Find the home for this circlip. The manual valve inner detent lever nut is one of the areas to check. Check the manual valve linkage thoroughly from outside the transmission case to the valve body. A quote from the Ford F-truck factory E4OD shop manual section is important: "...Manual valve inner detent lever must be seated on flats of shaft, and rod assembly must be through guide plate." The manual lever roll pin at the oil pan mating face below the manual shaft is critical to aligning the manual lever. Look over the manual valve linkage carefully. If not a mechanical linkage issue, this could be a solenoid issue, probably the low-reverse solenoid. If the internal transmission linkage is not the problem, check the shift solenoids. The wiring is an obvious place to look, but this could be a solenoid that is actually defective or slipping out of position. The fact that the situation is erratic leans toward a loose wiring connection or a defective and/or loose solenoid. For solenoids or switches, it's hard to diagnose this by "try this, try that" method. The use of diagnostic equipment that interrogates the flow of electrical current and the functions of the solenoid circuits is always helpful. Are you getting any codes? If so, please share them, that will at least narrow down the problem area. Moses
  3. 57 willys pick up another project

    Wow, innovative in a sense. Run what you brung stuff! The gearbox, in particular, looks like early Land Cruiser? Not sure how far back the hydraulic clutch linkage dates...Interesting! Glad you're philosophical and primarily interested in the frame and body. A place to start if you can find a Willys bed. Or is that the aim?
  4. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Rinky Dink...I, too, was surprised that the backing plate would be a preload determinant. A backing plate is stamped steel and flexes. Where's the "preload" specification for that kind of approach? Has anyone else reversed the bearing direction? Agreed that the current direction seems to prevent the axle shaft from moving inward. Outward resistance is strictly the backing plate pressure against the bearing cups. Let us know what you wind up doing. As an important point to consider, the factory OE axle shaft bearings are not preloaded. They call for a 0.004"-0.008" (0.006" preferred) end play adjustment. Shims are installed only at the left side of the axle to achieve this end play. If you set a 0.015" preload on the bearings, which would be zero end play then removing 0.015" shim material to preload the bearings, you will toast the bearings. I've attached a PDF of the factory axle shaft bearing end play adjustment. End play adjustment at the left side assumes that you have the OEM slotted spacer block at the center of the differential (which allows the axle shafts to even up). You are actually adjusting both axle shaft bearings from the left side: 1981-86 Jeep CJ Axle Shaft Bearing End Play Adjustment.pdf Moses
  5. Yea, Ian, the original purpose for the AMC/Jeep CJs! Should be lots of fun...Moses
  6. 57 willys pick up another project

    Good idea...rust is a challenge. Keep us posted, this is an interesting project, glad your wife likes the color choice and supports your project(s)!
  7. Wow! Manufactured at Australia, a righthand drive '75 CJ-5. What are your ultimate plans for this Jeep?
  8. 57 willys pick up another project

    Ian, your willingness to tackle these projects is amazing. The rust alone would thwart most builders. These cannabalized vehicles with hybrid, innovative powertrains are a testimony to previous owners' willingness to make do with whatever components were available. Do you know the history of this truck? Contemplating the paint job color already? Your commitment and enthusiasm is nothing short of impressive! Moses
  9. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Sounds like we're old hands at tapered roller bearings, I've been working with them "professionally" for 50 years now... Your photos are helpful. Regardless of the engineering soundness, the objective with the supplied ring is clear: Moser is setting either a specific float range (end play) or roller preload. The ring is even with the bearing cage and acts as a stop for the movement of the roller bearings outward. With the cup/outer race open in this direction, there would be no other means for keeping the axle shaft from sailing outward or at least to the backing plate. The stickout from the housing flange assures that the brake backing plate will act as a fixed stop for the ring and bearing cage. When the assembly is fully in place with the backing plate secured, what is the measurable end play of the axle shaft and bearing? If you use a dial indicator at the end of the axle shaft to check end play, push in fully and pull out fully. There should be measurable movement. If not, the bearing rollers are wedged between the inner and outer bearing races and "preloaded". I'm guessing that's not the case and that the rollers get relieved by the position of the bearing cup? On that note, does this setup leave the original bearing cup in place? Is that used as a spacer or stop for Moser's outer bearing cup/race? Does the spacing control the depth of the Moser bearing cup in the axle housing? This is definitely different...Must be a motive here. Moses
  10. Ian...An AMC/Jeep at its righthand drive best! Spicer 20 transfer case and T-14? 232 or 258 six? Let us know what you discover. Fun to see the "export" components that otherwise only come up in U.S. Mopar parts manuals! Moses
  11. 57 willys pick up another project

    Wow, Ian, what a bizarre mix of components and even body panels! Is this "original" or a cobble of parts? What's the history? What were the original pieces, how much of this is the current parts? The front and rear axles look unique, the front with the notch in the housing, the rear is a drop-in center section type. All very interesting, what was the powertrain, the TC looks Model 18 Spicer/Jeep. You find the most unusual "Jeep" vehicles! Moses
  12. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Can you photograph and post a picture of the "ring"? I'd like to see it and make an educated guess about its purpose and/or "safety" need. This is not the bearing retaining lock ring, right? Moses
  13. 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Rear Axle Noise

    Rinky Dink...The hub loosening issue is not unusual. AMC recommended installing a new hub each time one was removed from an axle shaft to assure a "fresh" spline cut. I've marked hubs before removal and had success reinstalling them in the exact same position then setting the shaft nut to the factory specification: The tension/set for these hubs is not a torque setting (although the start-up setting is 250 ft.lbs. minimum); the right tension is the stickout length of the axle shaft outer end, measured from the outer edge of the hub. I have this stickout dimension if anyone needs it, suffice to say I've set these two-piece axle shaft/hubs up by applying the force from my floor jack handle to a 3/4" breaker bar and 6-point socket to achieve the factory stickout length. My best air impact wrench was totally unable to reach this level of torque. For those unaware, the OEM hubs on these AMC 20/Jeep CJ axles have no machined splines. They are cast blank and get their "splines" from the serrated teeth "splines" machined into the factory axle shaft tapers. This demands scary levels of force to cut these splines and secure the hub properly. It's very common for installers not to take the torque to this level, and especially with oversized tires, a "spinout" of the axle shaft within the hub is likely. Let us know how this turns out...If you wind up contacting Moser, I'm curious how they describe the "retention" ring. Something sounds amiss. Did you compare axle shaft lengths from the bearing inner side of the axle shafts (where the bearings seat) to the locker spline ends at each side? The axle shaft lengths are different between OE open and limited slip differentials. Could that be the issue? Do you have the OE locker? Shafts placed correctly right to left? Is the locker spacer block correct for this application, differential and axle shaft lengths? Moses
  14. YZ250 Woods Weapon Build

    The losses this summer have been astounding: Montana, California, throughout the Northwest, including the Columbia Gorge. When this fire season ends, you'll have that long overdue break and decompression time. Keep me posted, there may be room for some riding... Thanks for your public service and dedication to protecting our lands! Moses
  15. Thanks for updating and sharing, Rusty...I learned this lesson with a Brand-X TPS and oxygen sensor on my 4.0L XJ engine. Each did not perform well, the off-shore TPS from a popular high-volume auto parts chain store actually failed, the O2 sensor caused a mysterious engine idle issue. I'm once again a staunch advocate of OEM spec parts. Avoid the generic pieces that fit a variety of applications and may be adequate if your application happens to be the benchmark for the part. You're an electronics pro and can appreciate this. One solution is to buy OEM supplier parts. An example is that NTK supplied Chrysler with the OEM O2 sensor on my '99 XJ Cherokee 4.0L. I took the NTK number from the OE sensor and simply replaced Brand-X with an NTK unit of the right part number. I sourced the best price on the NTK sensor strictly by its part number. Win, win. Moses
  16. Glad this is working, MomoJeep. As for trailer brakes, the two kinds common for a trailer in this weight would be a surge (hydraulic, tongue mounted like the U-Haul trailers use) or an electrical/electronic controller with a seven-pin connection. The controller mounts at the dash. You can adjust most electronic controllers for light pressure or even off when the trailer is empty. The weight (gross) is not considerable, and presumably this is a single axle trailer in that weight range? An electronic controller installed and adjusted properly would likely serve best. The surge brake requires more adjustment effort, and it cannot be readjusted from the driver's seat...Do you know what capacity or size brakes are now on the trailer? This trailer does have factory brakes at the axle? Moses
  17. At the 4WD Mechanix Magazine site, you will find my article and series of how-to videos on forming brake tube flares. The information below is excerpted from that URL page. To see the entire article and HD videos on how to form tubing flares, visit: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/video-series-how-to-flare-automotive-brake-tube-fuel-lines-and-cooler-tubing/ Brake rubber parts are vulnerable to damage, wear and deterioration. One of the quickest ways to cause brake rubber parts failure is exposure to petroleum or mineral base solvents, oils or compounds—including the popular products shown at left. The time honored and safe substance for cleaning brake parts is denatured alcohol. Always dry parts thoroughly before assembly…Periodic brake fluid changes can be done with a vacuum bleeder at the wheel cylinders and calipers, using the correct and fresh brake fluid. Brake service work on cylinders and calipers will benefit from a castor base grease like Millers Red Rubber Grease. Assembly of hydraulic cylinders and calipers can benefit from Raybestos BAF-12 Brake Cylinder Assembly Fluid. Both of these products are harmless to brake rubber parts and recommended for the installation of caliper piston seals or brake wheel cylinder cups. Rubber/Chemical Compatibility, Periodic Brake Fluid Changes and Choosing a Brake Fluid Always use the brake fluid type recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are compatible glycol-based brake fluids. (Use the recommended type, DOT 3 and DOT 4 are often combined ratings.) Never mix DOT 5 silicone brake fluid with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1. The difference between DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 is the boiling point, typically the higher the number, the higher the boiling point. (Some DOT 4 racing brake fluids would be an exception, they have a very high boiling point.) DOT 5.1 and DOT 5 Silicone have boiling points nearly the same but these fluids are not interchangeable, and they are not compatible. If your system has recommended DOT 3 or DOT 4, adding or changing to a DOT 5.1 glycol based fluid is acceptable. DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid can only be used by itself in a system completely free of glycol-based brake fluid. At left is a contemporary Castrol brake fluid previously labeled DOT 4 GT/LMA. The “LMA” stands for “Low Moisture Absorption”. This LMA feature is desirable and allows consumers to use a DOT 4 glycol base fluid with more resistance to moisture. (Moisture lowers the boiling point of brake fluid and causes system corrosion.) DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid (shown at right) is hydrophopic—it will not absorb water. Silicone brake fluid requires a system that is completely purged of all glycol based fluid and moisture before filling with DOT 5. If there is previous moisture present, the DOT 5 silicone brake fluid will not absorb the moisture; instead, the moisture will form hazardous bubbles if the fluid reaches the moisture’s boiling temperature. Never mix these fluid types. For more details on DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid characteristics, visit the Clearco Products page at: http://www.clearcoproducts.com/dot5-brake-fluid.html. Warning: Never use a mineral oil or petroleum product in a brake system designed for a castor oil/alcohol brake fluid (DOT 2), glycol-base brake fluid (DOT 3, 4 or 5.1) or a silicone type brake fluid (DOT 5). Mineral and petroleum products can cause rubber to swell and fail…Gasoline or diesel fuel, WD40 or any other petroleum based product or solvent should never be used for cleaning or freeing up brake system parts that contain rubber. Also note that brake parts cleaners often are intended for metal parts like brake backing plates and hardware—not for use within the cylinders or around any of the rubber seals! Read labels carefully…There are isolated vehicle brake systems (exotic European models like some Citroen and Rolls-Royce cars) that specify the use of a special mineral oil brake fluid. Always use the brake fluid type that the vehicle manufacturer recommends for a specific make, model and year vehicle. On modern vehicles, the master cylinder cap often has an inscription that states the recommended brake fluid…If a product’s chemical compatibility with rubber is questionable, see the Mykin chart at: http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart. Identify the rubber type and recommended brake fluid type when working on brake systems. Traditional brake seal and cup rubber is now being replaced by EPDM and other synthetic rubber materials. Vintage vehicles with pre-DOT 3 fluid use a DOT 2 or equivalent brake fluid that is typically castor oil (vegetable base, not mineral) and alcohol. This is why denatured alcohol is discussed in older shop manuals as a suitable “flushing” fluid for the brake system. The castor oil will not harm rubber and neither will alcohol. However, if denatured alcohol is used as a flushing agent, the lines and cylinders must be allowed to dry completely before replacing all rubber parts and replenishing the system with fresh brake fluid. Drying can be sped up with the use of compressed air if the air is filtered and does not contain moisture. Flushing with denatured alcohol is only done when all rubber seals are renewed after the flush and drying of the lines and cylinders. If the cylinders are in good condition and rubber is known to be okay, leave them alone; simply exchange the brake fluid with fresh brake fluid. Brake fluid changes get sorely neglected in the modern era, which means that corrosive moisture, a declining boiling point of fluid and brake fade can be an issue with hydraulic brake systems. It is relatively simple to at least vacuum bleed the brake system periodically at the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder valves. Drawing fresh fluid through the system, from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders or calipers, can at least remove the old hygroscopic (moisture absorbing) fluid and any debris. Arguably, vacuum bleeding is more effective than power bleeding for purging contaminants from a hydraulic brake system. Power bleeders apply pressure at the master cylinder, which can push debris to the edges of the wheel cylinders or calipers. Vacuum bleeding draws old fluid through the bleeder valves and will suck out debris from within the cylinders or calipers. If the cylinders remain assembled, vacuum bleeding will likely do a better job. Footnote: In the heyday of under-floorboard master cylinders, hydraulic brake system flushing annually was commonly recommended along with the replacement of brake cylinder rubber parts. Vented master cylinders were notorious for absorbing atmospheric moisture, dirt and even road surface water. DOT 2, DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 (not to be confused with DOT 5 Silicone) brake fluids are all hygroscopic: They absorb water/moisture at the rate of at least 3% volume per year in the average climate and under normal conditions. A passenger car or 4x4 vehicle with the master cylinder mounted to the vehicle's frame beneath the floorboard, like the vintage Jeep models and WWII to early Vietnam era military trucks, is highly susceptible to drawing moisture through the vented master cylinder cap, especially during stream fording or when the vehicle is stalled in body sill depth water! Before the use of rubber bellows on master cylinder cover gaskets and other moisture barrier methods at the master cylinder cap, a periodic brake fluid change and hydraulic brake cylinder rubber parts replacement was considered an annual service task. EIS master and wheel cylinder rebuilding kits were popular service parts in the vintage vehicle era. Vehicle manufacturers recommended an annual brake system flush and rubber parts replacement. See the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended fluid change intervals, usually one to two years on modern vehicles that use glycol-based (DOT 3, 4 or 5.1) brake fluid. This kit (photo courtesy of a seller’s eBay ad) contains the typical service parts for an annual flush and rebuild of wheel cylinders on a 1930s to 1966 U.S. vehicle equipped with a vented-to-atmosphere, single circuit master cylinder. Fluid quickly became moisture and debris contaminated, especially on earlier vehicles with the master cylinder exposed beneath the body! Dusty roads and stream crossings were highly abusive to brake fluid, iron hydraulic cylinders and rubber parts. For a better understanding of rubber types and their chemical sensitivity, see the Mykin Chemical website’s “Rubber Chemical Resistance” chart: http://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart. To better understand modern brake fluid characteristics and specifications, see this well written piece by Steve Ruiz at the Centric/StopTech site: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid
  18. AMC 20 shimming issue

    Tgrif11...Sorry you're have this kind of issue. Neither bearing cup should set this far into the housing tubing at either side, as this would create extreme axle shaft end play, nearly 3/8ths of an inch! Since the control factor is the length of the axle shafts, and presuming that you have a length match here with the original shafts or their lengths, the other issue discussed has been the slotted spacer block at the center pin of the differential. In the interest of viewing these parts in relationship, here is a PDF of all pieces in an AMC Model 20 axle for your Jeep CJ-7. The only additional items you need to place in correct parts orientation are the brake backing plates. They are part of the "stack thickness": 1981-86 Jeep CJ AMC Rear Axle Parts Schematics.pdf Let me know where this leads and ask any additional questions that come up. If the space block ends are badly worn or damaged, or if the block is missing, the axle shafts and bearing cups would fit too far into the axle housing, which would create excessive end play. You can inspect the block at the center cavity of an open differential; a bit more difficult if you have factory Trac-Lok (Dana/Spicer limited slip differential). Also note that the axle shaft lengths differ between open and Trac-Lok differential types, and there are narrow and wide-track axle housing widths with different axle shaft lengths as well. Moses
  19. AMC 20 shimming issue

    Tgrif11...Welcome to the forum community and thanks for participating! We have covered your AMC Model 20 axle issue from a variety of angles, with lots of details and even PDF illustrations. You'll discover footnote concerns that need address. Begin with a review of these references and discussions. Pay attention to the hub/axle nut torque concerns, a commonly overlooked item when you get past the end play and shimming issue. The parts orientation is crucial: Let us know how this goes...If you have further questions after reviewing the topics and discussions, please share... Moses
  20. Scrambler82...You and many others, including me, have anticipated the launch of the R2.8L Cummins diesel crate engine package from the Cummins Repower program. Wanting to make the engine package 50-State legal for vehicles like yours, Cummins committed to attaining a California E.O. number before launch. They are apparently still caught up in the E.O. process. Prior to VW's diesel engine issue, a clean diesel crate engine seemed a fast track candidate for an E.O. number. G.M. gasoline V-8 performance crate engine packages were already approved: https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/FAST-Act. (Jeg's, Summit Racing and others sell these packages with a California E.O. number/50-State legal.) Perhaps VW's fiasco with its passenger car diesel has bureaucrats on edge about a diesel engine conversion E.O. If so, this would be unfair to Cummins and the many consumers who could benefit from this tailpipe-compliant engine. The R2.8L Cummins has legitimacy and the support of many thousands. My most recent count at the magazine's URL page covering the 2016 SEMA Show interview with Steve Sanders showed visitors approaching 37,000. These would be earnest seekers of 4x4 diesel power in an affordable package. Last week I read the MSRP on a new and fully loaded Ford F150 Platinum package 4WD with the EcoBoost twin turbo 3.5L gasoline V-6: over $68,000 plus sales tax, licensing and dealer fees. (FYI...You can purchase a 3.5L EcoBoost crate engine for under $7,000 without adapters: http://www.fordracingbyspeedshopdirect.com/3_5L_V_6_ECO_BOOST_CRATE_ENGINE_KIT_p/M-6007-35T.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0K7NBRC7ARIsAEaqLRG-hLZMyvFjlkZM9oBt-9R8hbT2LPO397ug7CXUjkJYoXc-IGDjIH4aAn1PEALw_wcB .) Many consumers not only need a break from this unsustainable kind of new vehicle pricing, they need support for clean tailpipe diesel-power alternatives like the Cummins R2.8L crate engine. This high tech diesel should contend with the California tailpipe requirements for your vehicle prospects. Are you still thinking about the Edge or a Ranger pickup? Do you have a 1982 Jeep Scrambler as your member name hints? The R2.8L would run circles around the "legal" tailpipe requirements for a 1982 Jeep CJ with the 4.2L inline six! Do stay in contact with Advance Adapters. They have a finger on the pulse and considerable time and R&D invested in the adapters and installation packages for this Cummins engine. I'm sure they are as motivated to see a 50-State legal crate engine as the rest of us. Keep us posted on your findings and insights... Moses
  21. Drew and wolfman...This is very useful for others making this conversion! These details save time, and you're providing valuable insights. Take some time for your friends and families this holiday weekend, the time off from knuckle-busting will lead to brainstorms! Moses
  22. Very helpful to others, Drew! Thanks for taking the time to produce the video and explain your process...This also answers the question about shortening the front driveline. Let us know how this all works out... Moses
  23. Drew, thanks for sharing in a way that was helpful to wolfman and others...That's a forum community! Regarding the difference in manual versus automatic transmission lengths, does the rear engine/transmission mount fit the same crossmember position for AX15 and automatic transmission models? Is the transmission mount the same? Is the transmission length difference rearward of the mount? What are you doing about the front driveline if the transfer case sets further forward? Is the OE front shaft too long—but offset by the chassis lift? Make sure the front driveshaft can extend and collapse with room to spare over its range of suspension travel. You don't want the shaft to compress too far (upward suspension travel) and bottom, which can damage the transfer case. Have some fun this holiday weekend... Moses
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