Jump to content

53HiHood

Subscriber Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    91

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by 53HiHood

  1. 53HiHood
    We had a pretty good weekend at the Moonshiners 4x4 swap meet in Puyallup. Picked up a new 12 circuit wiring harness made in the US of A by a company called Rebel Wiring over in Tennessee. Also found a new back seat, some very clean Buick V6 valve covers, and probably the best find of the weekend, a new adjustable roll-around shop stool for $5. Between that and building snowbike wheel kits I haven't spent much time working on the Jeep project. I did get the Spicer 18 assembled on Friday. It went together fairly easy with the help of my Jeep book. I also came to the conclusion that my magnetic base for my dial indicator is garbage. I reassembled the heads tonight, I kept it pretty mild with the porting work. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to cc the heads. Edited 7 hours ago by 53HiHood
  2. 53HiHood
    We had a pretty good weekend at the Moonshiners 4x4 swap meet in Puyallup. Picked up a new 12 circuit wiring harness made in the US of A by a company called Rebel Wiring over in Tennessee. Also found a new back seat, some very clean Buick V6 valve covers, and probably the best find of the weekend, a new adjustable roll-around shop stool for $5. Between that and building snowbike wheel kits I haven't spent much time working on the Jeep project. I did get the Spicer 18 assembled on Friday. It went together fairly easy with the help of my Jeep book. I also came to the conclusion that my magnetic base for my dial indicator is garbage. I reassembled the heads tonight, I kept it pretty mild with the porting work. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to cc the heads.
  3. 53HiHood
    The wheel kit is used to get from the sno-park to the snow when the snow starts going bye bye or when the groomer hasn't moved the sign to allow us to drive to the snow. It works pretty darn well for something I fabbed up real quick friday night. It is bulky though and I might look at other lighter options. I placed an order with Cannon Racecraft for stiffer .58kg/mm fork springs and I'm hoping to find some used forks to install them in so I won't have to mess with my race-tuned suspension. There's not a lot of info out there for properly setting up snowbike suspension, a lot of people doing different things, a lot of temporary fixes. The bigger suspension shops are figuring it out though and I was able to get some good direction for my bike. We'll see how it goes.
  4. 53HiHood
    I can still register the bike, but I haven't had the DOT gear on it since my first 24 Hours of Starvation Ridge race back in 2010. My work commutes are always long and I always had another motorcycle that was primarily pavement oriented. I had a pretty good day on the timbersled. There were some bare gravel spots on the way out of the snopark but my off road wheel kit got me through most of it. The first hour or so was really difficult. I hadn't been on the bike since a bad crash in 2014, and the ski really likes to grab when you're following tracks. Once I decided to pick my own route it was so easy, and fun. The sleds had trouble following without getting stuck. And surprising I didn't get stuck once today. I could stop on a hill and that bike would just go. We found some great open timber and meadows to play in and I'll say that was some of the most fun I've had on a bike I think. The only negatives from today were the fork springs being too soft and my air fuel mixture screw falling out, which fortunately happened as I was going down throw the trees. I noticed the rpm's drop and then the bike died. I jumped off and looked over the carb and saw the screw and spring sitting on the bottom end. Lucky! A missing o-ring was the culprit there. As far as the springs, I'll have to find something stiffer. Ideally I would like to find a second set of forks that I could set up for the kit.
  5. 53HiHood
    I think switching back to dirt gear could be done in an hour. The install of the snow kit might take longer due to the brake bleeding and it's size. It's not very heavy, I can still lift the bike and spin it around with the kit installed. Back to the Jeep. I did just get in a stainless engine bolt kit and some fancy Dauntless V6 decals for the valve covers. I'll get started back up on that project likely tomorrow. Here's a shot of my bike up at Mt. Baker today. More pics in the enduro forum.
  6. 53HiHood
    The air filter set up on these bikes is top notch, virtually impossible to have any poor sealing issues other than installation error. I change the oil probably way too often, which I need to stop doing, and the air filter is changed regularly. When they are only $10 there's no excuse to have a dirty filter. Tomorrow will be the maiden voyage for the bike with kit. Going up to Mt. Baker, no lack of snow up there. I think the ski area had the first or second most snowfall again this year. The snowpark locations can make it tricky though if they are too low in elevation or people try to drive cars past the closure. My bike was plated, at one point the 450 and my old CR250R were plated. Nothing but trouble to be had on that 2T. Fun bike.
  7. 53HiHood
    Great info on the hardware. Once I get there I'll be tapping into your knowledge. I haven't sourced springs yet, the photo is just an example. The jeep has been set aside while I finish my snow bike build. I'm fabbing up an offroad wheel kit that I can strap to the front ski to allow me to get to the snow easier.
  8. 53HiHood
    I finally picked up a Timbersled Mountain Horse snow bike kit for my Honda just last month. I starting prepping my bike for install but decided to check my valves since it had been a couple races since last checking them. The intakes were both out of spec. Time for new valves and seats. I bought the bike new in '05 and hadn't had to do any engine work to date so it's impressive that the oem Ti valves lasted this long. Millennium Technologies in WI did the head rebuild. I opted to stick with Ti valves over SS due to weight. MT replaced the seats with a copper beryllium seat that will extend the life of the Ti intake valves. The cylinder was stripped and had a new Nikasil coating applied followed by their diamond hone. I had read about L.A. Sleeve in the past but it totally slipped my mind when it came time for the rebuild. Next time! A racing buddy insisted I only use a Wossner piston kit, it's a really nice piston. I just finished assembling the engine 2 nights ago and finished installing the MH kit and a new TT hour/tach and a Koso temp gauge last night. I ran two 5 minute heat cycles and had no surprise leaks or sounds. Two twists of the throttle and she fired on the first kick.(I did slowly kick through about 4 or 5 times to get oil circulated around before the initial start-up) I replaced all of the carb vent lines with shorter lines after rebuilding the carb. I ziptied them all together and then ziptied close-celled foam over them to keep snow/ice from obstructing them. I have a one-way filter on the end of the lower engine vent tube for the same reason. The kit comes with an Outerwear pre-filter but I did not install it, rather I blocked all of the intake box openings with more closed-cell foam. Due to it now being spring just about and the days of deep powder riding numbered, I did not make engine shields to keep the engine warm(hopefully the t-stat will keep operating temps up) or install any sort of carb heater.
  9. 53HiHood
    I should clarify, the roll cage will be mounted directly to the frame via the mounts I mentioned with the springs. I have not built them yet, but they will be a "clam shell" design with heavy duty springs on large Grade 8 bolts that will allow some flex at the mounting point. I will have to really look at the shear strength of the hardware used and find a balance on spring length that will allow the frame to flex but not compromise the mounts ability to secure the roll cage to the frame. The tub will have no structural duties as the seats and harnesses will be mounted to the cage. The current design of the cage had it mounted to the tub. Here is an example of the cage to frame mount I'm considering, except the mounts I will be building will capture the circumference of the frame rail and be removable.
  10. 53HiHood
    You can see shoe prints on the back floor pan, I had to test our work with the jump test. Very solid. The bottom pic shows the extent of deterioration. We did a lot of cutting, bending, and welding.
  11. 53HiHood
    I'll get some more shots of the new floor pans and over-engineered floor supports. Later this week I'll be mocking up suspension mounts for the shocks and roll cage to frame mounts. After much thought, I want the roll cage to be rigid as it will contain the seats, harnesses, etc, but I want the frame to flex. The solution I came up with are similar to the body mounts you would see on a cab chassis service truck or large fuel/water truck. There is a large heavy duty spring on each bolt that isolates the flex in the frame.
  12. 53HiHood
    I haven't done anything like this before, in fact is was the first time using a MIG welder, but I figured I needed to try to retain the factory flex but reinforce the weak spots. I also cut the first inch or so of the welds on the boxes sections. My reasoning there was to take the stress off the frame because the steel used for the boxes sections is thicker gauge. If any cracks should develop in the future it will be at the word instead of the frame itself, at least that's the hope. That is interesting about the spring mounts, must be why my Dad did that some 30 years ago. The shackle mount for the front spring is actually in the frame too, you can see it in the picture showing the work I did on the frame. This Jeep definitely saw a lot of abuse over the years, a lot of miles in the central Washington Cascades and Oregon sand dunes. I'll get some pics of the tub posted. Just a fair warning, I'm not an auto body technician. I'm building this Jeep for jeeping, not car shows. I'm going for strength, durability, and function.
  13. 53HiHood
    My hope was to stay with or close to the factory c.r. but piston options are limited. We'll see once I cc the heads, deck height, and pistons. The frame was extended in the front to accommodate longer springs, they were rancho wide cj springs but I just picked up a full set of new superlift yj springs at the swap meet in Puyallup WA last spring. The Jeep's. The yeller one is the current project. Ol blue was a great find. Rust free top to bottom. No powertrain yet. I'm undecided on its future. The frame is pictured below, post sand blasting. It's actually severed in the middle, right in front of the forward rear spring hangers. The following picture is the reinforcing I did to keep it in one piece. I'll have to jump on my laptop later to post more pictures, using my tablet is a joke, very frustrating. The forum must not be mobile friendly. More to come!
  14. 53HiHood
    Hello fellow jeepers, I'm new to the forum and wanted to share my current project. I have an old flat fender that's been in the family for around 30 years that was in dire need of restoration. It's turned into a ground up, the frame was twisted and severed in the middle and the tub was all rusted out. I completely rebuilt the frame, straightened it all out and reinforced the weak areas. I didn't box the frame as I want to retain some flex. I did some extensive panel replacing and patching on the tub and built new floor pans for the front and rear. The axles are stock D44 rear and a custom built super 44 up front. I still have the Dana 18 tore apart, but ready for assembly. I had to find a shop that could replace and fit a new bushing for the output shaft. Other than that it's getting a full rebuild kit. The Jeep has a T19 from an IH, it is still in great shape and will only get a small parts kit. The engine that was in it was a tired 225 with a cracked block. I got a couple other oddfires when I bought the Jeep and decided to rebuild another 225. After going through the cleaning machine, my machinist found some deep pitting in some of the cylinders. The block was already .030 and with advice from TA Performance we took it to .070 and they ordered me some .020 Buick 350 pistons from Egge. Apparently they have seen a 225 bored .090 over without structural or cooling issues. Once I had those my shop sent everything in for a full balance. They refreshed the heads with new springs, exhaust valves+hardened seats, valve job,and new seals. I did some minor porting and cleaned up the runners to smooth the air flow. It's not a race engine but even the small improvements go a long ways. I still need to port match the heads in addition to the offy intake and the headers. I had Delta cam in Tacoma build a strong low-end torque cam. I was searching for some info last night, do you know what the combustion chamber size is on the 225 heads? Egge couldn't tell me what to expect for static c.r. That's probably enough for now. I'll post pictures in the days to come.
×
×
  • Create New...