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Everything posted by 53HiHood

  1. The front is already disc, I’ll just need to upgrade the master cylinder and set up the proportioning valve I got for it.
  2. I spent a lot of time on an XR400R and while a heavy bike for dirt bike standards, much better than the AT. It’s also a couple hundred pounds lighter. I do have the standard 6 speed, but I would mind trying the DCT, I hear it’s nice. Rekluse does make an auto clutch for the AT now, although for the riding I do I don’t think it will be much of a benefit.
  3. Yeah I passed through this past spring on the Thursday leading up to EJS, what a zoo. I couldn’t even get govt rate. But not an issue on my way home in mid August.
  4. Samurai rotors(86) and Chevy or caddie calipers. I’m not too concerned with adding an e-brake so I’ll go with the standard ones.
  5. I never did post back about the Rekluse Radius X. It is an amazing clutch, the best upgrade I’ve done to any bike. I can go out and ride more technical terrain and really challenge my abilities and the bike is impossible to stall. It’s a real confidence builder and I wish I would have tried the Rekluse coolaid years ago. I did add the Boyeson Rad Valve back in late 2017, it seems to make the bike run cleaner, more responsive, at all rpm’s. It definitely has a more crisp top end. This past summer I added an Acerbis desert tank, now I just need to get out to ride enough to burn all that fuel. All in all, this is a great bike and the whole combo really seems to be working with the clutching, tires, fueling, exhaust. It runs great. My buddy with the XR wants to make a Moab trip this spring, I would love to but time is always scarce for me.
  6. I finally got to see the XR650L is action after I rebuilt the engine this past Spring. Too my disliking, I could hear the loose rockers when my buddy pulled up. He has not been properly maintaining the bike, mostly due to lack of experience and knowledge so I made him watch a quick YouTube video on valve clearance checks and had him help me set the valve clearance on the bike. All valves were way out of spec. But all is good now, fortunately he put minimal hours on the bike. And why can’t all bikes be that easy and quick for valve checks and adjustments? We did do some riding, my big Africa Twin is maybe too big for single track and gets squirrely in the mud. I think I’m going to look at different options for the front tire.
  7. I finally found the brackets with spacers, $100. Nice 3/8” brackets. R&P 4WD in Oregon City has a lot of great older jeep stuff, Rich is the owner and I ended up calling him and he was more than happy to sell me just the brackets with spacers and told me what calipers and rotors to use. I should be able to make the complete conversion for around $200.
  8. Well I'm back home for the winter and ready to finish this disc conversion, but first I need to start it. I'm still looking at the 3/8" weld-on brackets. I can't seem to find bolt on brackets anywhere except for one complete kit that is way above my price range. The other thing I'll need to look at is a space to take the place of the backing plate I'll be removing. I could either cut up the backing plate or have a spacer made.
  9. I’m not in Durango anymore, that was just a 5 month temp reassignment. I’m back in the great PNW! The snow is finally falling so I’ll be riding the little CRF soon.
  10. An update on the XR650L, my buddy(the owner) finished putting the bike back together, which was really just installing the exhaust, battery, and a few other little things. The aftermarket cam does not have a decompression feature so he had to install a more powerful battery, I’ll have to check with him on the model. Other than that, he was really pleased with the power and responsiveness of the new engine. I have not ridden it myself but I’ll get on it att some point this winter.
  11. I ended up getting the crank the week before I left. Millenium Technologies forgot to include the cylinder and piston kit in the shipment, which makes twice this winter they did that, and I got that stuff just days before I had to leave. A couple long nights and I had it all assembled minus a couple things. My buddy will have to finish putting the bike together and do the initial start up and break in without me. I’ll walk him through that though. I will say this, I’m shopping for a new machine shop. I don’t like to stress over things when I’m working on bikes. Turnaround times in excess of a month and misplaced parts is not acceptable.
  12. The coil spring is captured by the strut assembly so I didn't need to compress it. The upper and lower strut mounts stay intact. I didn't have to use a jack when detaching the upper ball joint, I left the nut on to keep things from moving too much until it was broke free.
  13. Engine Dynamics did a great job on the head repair. I wish I had the cylinder and crank so that I could assemble the engine. I'm hoping those will be finished and shipped today, but I've been hoping that for a month now. I did look at new head options, as well as new cranks. These 650L's are not the cheapest honda's to rebuild. At least the cylinder has a sleeve that can be easily bored and honed, otherwise total cost would be near the value of the bike itself.
  14. The shop did not suggest that. The issue was they took to much material from the seats and should have started with new seats. I got it worked out, not without additional headache. They replaced the seats. I also had them clean up their porting work. I got the bike out on tuesday for a short ride, nothing aggressive. No leaks, weird noises, etc. Bike ran great. I kept jetting at factory settings minus a 45 slow jet. The bike fired on the 3rd or 4th kick after re-assembly. I may get out for a ride tomorrow but that may be it for the year as my schedule is shot after this weekend.
  15. The brackets I'm looking at are from ruffstuffspecialties. As far as set up, the best video I saw on youtube, the guy mounted the caliper to the bracket and set the unit on the axle with rotor installed. He used compressed air to center and hold the caliper on the rotor before tacking it to the axle housing. The project is going on hold yet once again. I'm taking a temp transfer to Durango CO at the end of the month.
  16. This engine build has been a nightmare. I’m always waiting on parts and now sending parts back due to poor quality control. When I decided on the work I wanted done I wasn't given cam recommendations. I found the hotcams stage 3 but I didn’t feel it would work with my build, especially so after talking with one of their techs. I finally got the shop to give me a recommendation for a custom cam in mid January and by the time the cam was built and shipped it was mid February. I haven’t had the bike out once, It’s currently sitting in the shop with no cylinder head. I had the head CNC ported and when they did the valve job they didn’t check valve recess depth in the seats. When I got the head and installed everything the shims required to get the proper clearance were a couple sizes from the smallest, so not much room to adjust the valves later on. I had to disassemble the entire top end and send the head back. That was almost two weeks ago. I have to hope that they at least send new top end gaskets otherwise I’ll have to order those and continue waiting. I’m going to be looking for a new shop next time I need engine work done. Here are some shots of the engine... Starting assembly The new rod does have a bronze bushing in the small end A view into one of the intake runners shows metallic particles loosely attached and or broken off. Not a very clean job. When the custom built Ron Hamp RHC22 camshaft showed up..... I did run the engine for two 10 minute heat cycles at 2000-2200 rpm before having to remove the head to return it for warranty work. My fueling was off and I’ve never had so much trouble starting this bike. Prior to this engine work, the bike never needed more than 3 kicks, even when I was on the mountain. I had the jetting set to stock and just wasn’t getting enough fuel. I kicked for over an hour before giving up the night I finished assembling it. I replaced the stock 42 pilot jet (slow jet) with the only larger size I had which was a 50 and the bike fired up. I since replaced that with a 45 and that’s what I’ll try when I get the head back. I’m told by the shop that I will possibly run leaner jetting because the engine will pull more fuel from the jets than a standard bore engine. Definitely not the case for start up.
  17. We’re getting close to reassembly. I had to send the head to Engine Dynamics in Petaluma for cam journal repair. There is a journal machined into the head and when the oil level or quality is insufficient bad things happen. I guess it’s not uncommon for these bikes to have oil starvation issues when ridden at highway speeds for long periods. Not a cheap repair, about $200 to weld the journal to build it back up and then re-machine it. But cheaper than the valve job, $300 is a bit steep for a basic 4 valve head. I should have just had them do the repair and sent the head with the crank and cylinder to Millenium Technologies as they charge about half as much. The crank may or may not be serviceable. Apparently the gear that’s pressed onto the crank can be a real pain and the shop says it’s usually 50/50 with getting the gear off. It’s been at least a few weeks since I sent the cylinder and crank in, no word on when they’ll be done.
  18. Moses, I have an offset 44 with 30 spline 1 piece axle shafts. The jeep was set up with front discs and rear 11” brakes and the proper master cylinder. I looked at the full float kits but I don’t want to get that involved and spend that much. I’ll likely end up purchasing weld-on caliper brackets and sourcing a pair of e-brake calipers. After watching a couple videos it looks pretty straight forward.
  19. I just wanted to share my afternoon endeavor in case anyone else is planning on doing ball joints in the near future. The vehicle is a 2007 F150 4x4. I did the simple ball joint check by jacking up the truck and prying under the tire and watching the lower ball joint. At 170k miles I’m impressed with how good of condition they were in, just a slight bit of play. Enough to warrant replacing them. I bought Mevoteck TTX ball joints, they have a great warranty and reviews were great. As always, use jack stands and secure the vehicle from moving before starting. After removing the tire, rotor, and caliper I sprayed penetrating oil on everything to be removed and then rounded up the necessary tools. I removed everything in this order once the caliper and rotor were off: 1. Tie rod end (21mm) 2. Upper control arm ball joint nut (21mm) 3. 10mm nut on the end of the axle (under the dust cap on the hub assembly) 4. Hub vacuum plate on back of spindle (3 8mm nuts) 5. Lower control arm ball joint nut (I used a 15/16”, but I believe it is a 24mm) When removing the spindle from the control arms, leave the ball joint nuts threaded on a little to prevent the spindle from falling off as shown in this photo below... I used a small hammer to knock the spindle loose from the control arms like this.... Once I had the upper spindle mount free I pulled the axle out and used a strap to keep it clear of the work area. More tapping on the lower spindle and everything is free. I kept my tire close to act as a good place to set the caliper and spindle... The next two steps are pressing out the old ball joint and pressing in the new one. Here are a few pieces of advice: 1. Do not hammer on the ball joint to break it loose unless yo a very careful to not hit the outer circumference of the ball joint. Doing so will cause damage to the control arm when pressing the ball joint out if the edges of the ball joint become deformed where the snap ring lip is. Ask me how I know. 2. Do yourself a favor and have a good quality ball joint service kit on hand. My Made in China set is garbage and added a lot of time to the job because the body of the press is no longer square and I had to constantly reposition it to keep the ball joints going in and out in a straight manner. The kit also has very few spacers and such, so I had to get creative when pressing in the new ball joint. Once the new ball joint is in lube it up, but don’t overfill it. I took the time to clean out the vacuum hub assembly and applied new grease to the seals, needle bearings, etc. I reassembled in reverse order, starting with the lower control arm to spindle mount.
  20. I would like to lose my drum brakes. Who has converted their rear 44 to disc brakes and what parts did you use?
  21. So, case closed. I put this project off so long I had forgotten how to re-assemble the front axle. I’ve been working on modern pickups so much I forgot that the rotor mounts behind the wheel hub on these old Jeeps. Rotors and wheel studs fit fine.
  22. Ok, got my subscriber membership now. So, after not doing much with the jeep the past couple winters due to my snowbike hobby I jumped back in yesterday. I have to reassemble the front axle and clean the rear axle housing. I ran into trouble with the new front wheel studs that came with my new wheel bearing hubs. There is a shoulder behind the knurled section that would not allow proper press-on fit. The jeep parts vendor sold me the wrong studs it appears. Napa was able to look up studs for a scout and I was able to look at one to confirm it will work. A second problem I found was my new rotors that I purchased almost 3 years ago. I went to test fit one and found that the hub hole is too small, under 4” and it needs to be over 4”. They are for a 81-86 CJ. I’m guessing I need mid-70’s.
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