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RareCJ8

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Everything posted by RareCJ8

  1. Well the old OEM switch design met its maker. After about 30 activations of real time trail use the plunger post snapped off. It was asking a lot for that small plunger make contact with the narrow rib on the brake lever. Now to explore a more robust switch design. Back to scratch... At least the circuit is in place. Suggestions welcome.
  2. Great video. new info. My yellow top optima lasted a long time. Today looking at two Odessey 34M-PC1500 for jeep. seems my old 'battery tender' may not be up to snuff for the job. i see CTEK offers a part number 56-158 and the other 56-864. Not sure about the difference. Also see a NOCO Genius charger, G3500 Also: BatteryMINDer 128CEC1 but this one is like $170! Thoughts here?
  3. Have used a battery tender on, off couple years. Will look into ur referral. Some say never mix, others say its ok. got the ebrake light working. Toeture tested it all weekend on a run. Excellent.
  4. Running a dual, isolated setup. Deep cycle yellow top for aux needs and a die hard platinum for starter battery. The yellow top has lasted since bought in 2002. Not a bad run. Now not holding a charge. The diehard is soon to follow. Suggestions for replacements?
  5. tnx moses for the notes. i am on a quest to find a spare pitman arm. it is straight not dropped. i obtained a period correct CJ arm and it was far shorter than the one now in use. New custom drag link from ORD too. if i get to doing a new box i will have it in hand for easier shopping and side by side comparison. the drag link and tie rod are in perfect level planes. the beveled steering arm on pass side knuckle makes that easier. now the end rests at 90 degrees, not stressed to the limit just for everyday use. on jeep jambo last year noted a very common type of breakdown on newer jeeps is a busted sector shaft. going to massive drag/tie rod suggests the weak link is moved upstream. Such a breakage can be a real headache to fix in the field. i'd rather straighten out a bowed tie rod than deal with the gear box. will look for more info on the mid-line coupler. i recall it was with AN hardware and put together by a local hose shop.
  6. Re routed now switch is all ground side. Add inline fuse and we rock. Not pleased with the incandescent lamp so ordered a nice flush mount led. But I have concept down and found a switched hot lead too! Proof of concept.
  7. i have all the beefy bracing in place from box to pass frame. All guessed up. Driver frame beefed up too. Running the burgeon shaft from box to firewall, then rebuilt the entire tilt column. The box does not leak and i have made from time to time slight adjustments on top using the allen head tool to take up some slack. Perhaps on borrowed time? From what I can see mine has the 75 stamped in the case. Sag 800? Model 800 4 bolt # 76 casting gear box claims a 13/16 x 36 spline input shaft. Supposedly AMC was using these on many CJ models throughout the 1980's. The Hummer H1 has a 16/13:1 variable ratio gearing. almost identical to the OEM Jeep box at 17:1. H1 has a larger piston for less effort with a faster turning ratio (variable 13 to 16-1 vs 17-1), with 13/16" input splines and metric fittings as original on Scrambler. Research shows the H1 box is also 4 bolt with the 76 cast mark. The Variable gear --in the middle and faster out towards the edges. Or stay constant all the way is the Q now. dooming a rebuild is not for me. I'd rather install a new box and keep the old for a spare. next challenge is to find a replacement pitman arm. (i like redundant spares) When this heep was originally cobbled together in 1999 we used (if i recall correctly) a GM firebird arm. It is a bit longer than the OEM. Sadly casting #s are too worn to read. This longer arm was to accommodate the full size axles and cross over steering, etc. other than sourcing a spare arm, i am at a crossroads. just leave it be or replace with ? and have a spare. i saw a guy locally that due to the tight clearances for the steering fluid lines added a coupler mid-way. it is really tight in there. At least on the YJs they moved it around for better access.
  8. The power steering gear is the last frontier for my 81-- about everything else has been R&Rd. With low gears, big tires and an ARB up front this OEM part may be on borrowed time. Reading a hummer H1 box is a near exact drop in. Cardone 1 part number. 27-7595, it's a bolt in for the stock CJ P.S. gear it has the larger piston for less effort with a faster turning. This sounds like a mixed bag as for lock to lock ratios. For me, fewer turns the better. It has the right bolt holes and correct o ring couplings. I have done the drill out trick on the pump already. Better performance at low RPM. I see others that simply go with the napa generic unit. rebuilt or new? Agr? Psc? These are spendy. also note the access to CJ box components, hoses, etc very tight. I see some add a coupler mid line for easier servicing, etc. is there a suggested schedule to flush and fresh fill ps fluid? Never thought about that. if a newish box, does it make sense to have it ported for eventual hydro assist? Thanks guys!
  9. So the bottom of plunger goes to negative of light and switched fused hot to hot side of light. Think i have it. Was overthinking it. Or i can just leave as is with a small battery and its all isolated from main system. Found a perfect location for light near top of cab above sun visor. No way to miss a red light there.
  10. Getting closer. From what i can see when the lever is retracted (up) it pushes the plunger in abd break the connection and light us off. (Thus the soring is 99% of time under load.). Engage lever (down) pressure off switch circuit closes and light comes on. I think i got it...
  11. will get to NAPA or ? soon to get a suitable LED light then wire it up. inline fuse is easy-- stay tuned for updates. i overkill all such connections with solder and shrink tube.
  12. Furtger testing has revealed it is indeed a switch. Duh. Now to get a light and some wire... Tnx all for ur support.
  13. Tnx moses but im still perplexed. First, there are no existing wires for this project. Id like to use the cluster light but all that is present is a very short threaded stud at the bulb, unknown if its even there or functional. Short as in about 1/8" or less. Since have to wire up from scratch, may locate a different light somewhere else. Not a problem The snag is how is this a switch? What opens, closes the circuit? This oem part is all electrically one piece. Sure, there is the spring loaded plunger but that is not isolated From its housing. In other words, once it is mounted to the ebrake assembly it is entirely grounded. The pedal making contact with the plunger changes nothing. Redundant. Its hard to explain by typing. Guess the question is what is the mechanism that activates the light? I get that the ignition switch initially energizes the circuit but what action happens to allow light to come on? I might mock up a short example using a 9 volt battery some test leads and a low voltage led bulb i have. and a pic tells a 1000 words.
  14. I get similar chatter between acceleration and deceleration. Dana 300. In that sweet spot it does it. jyst noisy. Not sure its a problem.
  15. This is the OEM switch. Cost $$ me a lot to be authentic. The plunger is not isolated, as per the ohm meter. Tested all sections, its all one piece. Mounts to ground and appears only connection is when pedal assembly makes contact with the top of plunger. Not clear where is the 'switch' so to speak. This should not be so difficult.
  16. Getting close. I think. Below is pic of similar switch. I grabbed this from web. It screws to side of ebrake housing with spring loaded plunger. With ebrake pedal retracted it makes contact with the plunger. Engage ebrake and it no longer touches and a light will come on.
  17. Some wiring diagrams show the E break circuit going through the proportioning valve. My valve has no electrical connections. I was able to source the switch from a jeep graveyard and it was not cheap.basically a spring loaded plunger. It seems the circuit is complete anytime the E brake lever is in the retracted position. Light goes off. Once the lever is engaged the switch no longer makes contact with the lever and the light should come on. i'm considering abandoning the factory speedo cluster location and add a bright LED right at level eyesight. Time permitting must replace pads and rebleed system the brake pedal now is very mushy. Costly mistake for a very short drive. Im still confused how to wire it up.
  18. looking to restore the factory ebrake warning light. Recently did disc brake conversion in rear. With 15 miles on it, hopped in to drive to work and forgot to release ebrake. Smoked the new pads and tripped the proportioning valve. Ugh.
  19. Got to observation point and turned back. Too smoky. Moved south to deer valley trail and camped there 3 days. Perfect. No smoke and jeep ran great. Click thumb for full screen. In the rain. A cj6 and cj8 Visiting buggy Nice scenery Packed up ready to roll
  20. Before it was replaced my D300 used to consistently pop out of low range. scary when on steep downhill engine braking. The quick fix was to bungee the lever fwd and that worked great. Understand u have a different issue. or maybe when in 2H bungee the lever to the pass door area adding some side load?
  21. We're leaving for (smoky) Rubicon early tomorrow so will look at this issue if it acts up.
  22. Just back from a 5 day camp event and 4x4 poker run. Odd experience: when driving through a really long, relatively rough trail section-- nothing special just an endless road of water mellon size rocks, and at faster than a crawl felt like rig was running over heavy washboard. the suspension usually absorbs these sort of terrain features. Go to neutral and coast, the bump bump stops. Come to stop and rev RPMS and at idle or up to 1500 RPMs engine running VERY rough. Sounds like a boat exhaust. bubbub bubbub, sputtering and running really rough. Cycle RPMs up higher, back to idle and repeat couple times and then all is well and she runs like it should. the symptom reminds me of the carb days when it would load up off camber. First Q is any comments or suggestions? Can EFI get confused from relentless pounding? Fuel pressure was perfect. no pressure in tank-- opened cap. full tank of gas. then to add to stress, all of a sudden when starting twist key forward and the screech of starter stays on, manually dial back key to stop it. its either a spring on starter spur or in the key lock assembly (which i completely rebuilt with new parts last winter) SMH, its always something... but this random rough running engine is a concern.
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