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    Littleton, CO
  1. After letting it sit for about an hour, I did a pressure check at the rail. The pressure was 0. Turned key to on, I could hear the pump cycle and the rail pressure was still zero. I did this a couple more times, key to on, pump cycled and rail pressure 0. I then cranked the motor and the pressure slowly built to 52 psi and the engine started. Ran perfectly. Turned key off and the rail pressure dropped to 10 psi in short order. Turned key back to on and the rail pressure went back to 25 psi. Engine started and ran fine. As I stated earlier, the fuel pump and pressure regulator are new. Could this be a check valve issue in the pump? Is the regulator, or pump, allowing the fuel line to drain after running? Would you recommend an inline check valve between the pump and the regulator? Thanks again.
  2. It has been a month since I first posted on this subject. I have replaced the TPS and checked and re-checked all grounds and the problem still existed. After one more call to Bennie at Hesco, in my opinion this man is a genius, he instructed me to drill a 3/32 hole in the butterfly plate. I live at almost 6,000 feet and his feeling on this was that the engine was being starved for air. He was right, drilled the hole and the problem went away immediately. I would like to ask you one more question on this engine being hard to restart when hot. In my first post I mentioned all of the fuel components I had replaced. It will restart but you do have to crank it for quite some time. The engine doesn't stumble when it restarts and idles as expected. I have had the Jeep emission checked and it passed with flying colors, but the technician did say that he didn't think it was going to restart at one point, he had killed the engine during the test. Manual transmission difficulties on his part! Any ideas? Thanks
  3. Moses, Thanks for the speedy reply. I have spent days trying to figure this out and now have a few more to think about. I have spoke to Hesco about this and they gave me a few things to check/replace as well. One of these is the transfer case mounted speed sensor. Thoughts? I will check the vacuum hoses as I don't have many this shouldn't take to long to accomplish. I have noticed that this problem seems worse when the engine and outside temp are warm to hot. ( It has finally started to warm up in Colorado) Can you give me what the voltages are supposed to be for the TPS & MAP sensors? The reason this was stored in the first place was due to the #5 piston fragmenting. All six pistons were replaced with the block in the Jeep. I left the crank, camshaft, timing chain and distributor in place so as to avoid any timing issues. The head was reworked and reinstalled along with the original MPI intake. I did remove the crank sensor, cleaned and reinstalled at the distance Hesco gave me of .025. According to them, this is a either it works or it doesn't sensor. I don't have any butt connectors I can remember. The kit had all of the necessary connectors on the supplied wiring harness. Most of the parts for this kit can be found at your local parts store. You just have to know what year Jeep the parts are. Terry
  4. I am writing about my 1984 CJ7, 4.2 I6, manual trans with the Mopar fuel injection kit installed. The Jeep has been in storage for the last nine years and I am getting her going again. I had to do some engine work on it, but this is not the source of my problem. Since getting it running again (she runs well sitting still and accelerating under load) A peculiar problem has emerged. When I slow to come to a stop the engine dies and it is only when coming to a stop. Since it sat without running for so long, I have removed the fuel tank and cleaned, replace the sending unit and all hoses, installed a new filter, a new fuel pump, a new pressure regulator and an idle control air valve. The engine always restarts immediately. This problem didn't exist before having to put it into storage. I am at a loss as to what else to look into. Any ideas? Thanks Terry Utecht Littleton, CO
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