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jordan89oak

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Everything posted by jordan89oak

  1. Well, late night update. I just got done messing around with this engine. I did a test fit first and found that the engine dropped right in. As previously mentioned, I was worried about the motor mount modification that I did to the block not working, but everything worked out. After mock-up, I went ahead and mounted the new flywheel and clutch, mated the engine and transmission together, and drop them into the Jeep. I’m so happy that the engine drop into its new home! Now that those things are in I have to pick up the new alternator and start putting the accessories together. I have the new voltage regulator and pigtail. I also have to clean the firewall up a bit by the battery tray, I picked up a dual battery tray for the Jeep, so I’ll be doing that wiring as well. So, for those fitting a 2001-2004 XJ 4.0 engine into their CJ7, or Wrangler, be prepared to cut the top motor mount nub, as well as a small portion of the passenger side casting webbing next to the motor mount.
  2. I had to cut the top motor mount nub (as seen in the picture), and there’s a some space between the block and the mount for the bottom bolt holes. It’s not much, and I’m hoping that things will line up and I can just put a thick washer in between.
  3. Picture of the massaged header. I was going to go with the stock exhaust manifold with the flex pipes at the 1 and 6 primaries, but it's a good thing I didn't. They would not have fit, as that is the area where I had to make a dent on the header. I went with an ATP header, which I got at an amazing deal ($19), so I picked two up. I am going to run a flex pipe right beneath the collector in an attempt to avoid cracks.
  4. Hey Moses, I'm back for a quick update on the project. So, I mocked things up yesterday. I am using the earlier 4.0 header with the '04 intake. It was not exactly a direct fit, so I had to massage the #6 primary. I'm also having to run a spacer in between the car and the actual adapter. Even with the spacer in place, the throttle linkage is binding on a raised casting number. That's not an issue, I will grind that off and everything should clear. I haven't found plugs for the injectors, being that I will not be using them. The quickest solution that I see for this is just keep them, and the fuel rail, in place. There is a paper thin spacing between the intake runner and the exhaust primary, but everything appears to seal tight. The pictures show the manifolds mounted without a gasket, and things are flat against the head. My plan is to mock the engine and tranny into the Jeep this weekend, as I am a bit worried about the block modifications that I had to do on the driver side mounting location on the block. Hopefully, things will drop into place. If they do, I put in the new pilot bearing, clutch, and finally mate things and drop them into the Jeep. I will keep you posted once I have done this.
  5. Hey Moses, Yes, I am going to give the '04 4.0l engine a go. Unfortunately, the Weber carb does not have a CARB number that will pass inspection. As long as my emissions are good, the visual should not be an issue. I will do everything that I can to make it all look "original," with the exception of an EGR system. The reason I was initially not able to use this newer engine was because the use of the 4.2 intake would not have allowed me to mount the power steering pump, as the threaded pads are missing, and the '04 water pump does not have the mounting tabs for the power steering system. The exhaust manifold will not work on the 4.0 heads, so I have a 4.0 exhaust manifold for that. Also, the stock 4.2 exhaust manifold is cracked pretty bad. I haven't looked into modifying the 4.0 intake for EGR adaptation, but I will definitely look into that. I stripped the original computer and wiring. I have all of the stock components in a box in my garage. I will be adding a new catalytic converter and tuning the carb and timing to help with passing the sniffer test. As long as I can pass the sniffer, I am good to go. The other issue that I am faced with is the alternator, being that the computer is used to excite and charge. What I have read as a solution is the use of an old Mopar external regulator. I am planning on using a 2004 4.7 Durango alternator (160Amps), as I have read that they will work on these engines.
  6. Hey Moses, I am back with an update. So, I was online searching for LS swap components when I came across an the 4.0 efi to carb adapter that I had been looking for all of this time! I know an LSX swap would have been great, but this will save me a lot of time and money. The adapter is very well machined. I am going to have to use the original spacer that came with the carburetor, as the throttle linkage hits the adapter plate. This will now allow me to run all of the Grand Cherokee accessory components. I have to test fit the engine to make sure that it will drop in, being that I had to cut into the driver side mounting tab on the block. If this all goes well, I will start gathering the pieces, slowly, for an LSX swap later down the road. I will keep you posted with updates. Jordan
  7. I guess I find the LSX swap easier because I am familiar with it. There is just SO MUCH cross configuration within the LS platform. I was a little disappointed with the redesign of the 4.0 in the Grand Cherokee engines. There also seems to be more support for GM ecm programing than for Jeep ecms. I do have the needed fabricating equipment (MIG and TIG), as well as HP tuners for computer programing.
  8. Hey Moses, This was definitely a disappointing discovery, but I guess I can't be too mad about it since I initially thought I was only getting the transmission for the price that I paid for it ($250). I had already made plans to turn this into a budget 4.5L stroker, and was just about to go and get the 4.2 crank and rods machined and checked. The LS that I have sitting on the stand is a complete engine with computer and harness. I even have the DBW peddle that goes with it. I thought it would be easier to drop in a 4.0, but it looks like an LSX swap might be the best thing to do. It seems like it would be easier to deal with the wiring of an LS engine, as opposed to that of a Jeep. I took a look at the Advanced Adapters website. The mounts are affordable. The only thing that would get expensive would be the catalytic converters for an emission legal swap, but doable. The video was helpful in understanding the complexity of a legal emission swap. I remember one requirement being that the vehicle that the engine came out of has to be under the same classification as that of the swap vehicle. The 6.0 that I have came out of a truck, but I also have a 5.3 that came out of a Tahoe. I have to crunch some numbers and do more research on the emission legal swap.
  9. Well, I am back with an update. Unfortunately, luck is not on my side when it comes to Jeeps. I took the head off of the 4.0 that came with the AX-15, and things immediately took a turn for the worst. This engine had damage to the front of it. The fan and clutch were damaged, and the water pump shaft was loose. After removing the head, I noticed a hole in that cylinder right behind the water pump. I really thought that I could give this engine a quick refresh and drop it into the Jeep to enjoy it. I've thought about getting it sleeved, but I am not even sure if that would be possible. I've drawn up a template for a carb adapter for the Grand Cherokee 4.0 engine so that I can use the FI intake and power steering pump. I will continue to post updates on this engine situation as I go.
  10. Unfortunately, still didn't come with the harness or PCM. The guy used it on his other project. I wasn't even expecting for the engine to be included in the deal, but when I got there, he said to take everything. The transmission does have the CPS attached to it. I was looking at the adapter for the AX15 to the D300. This definitely opens up some possibilities. I was looking at harnesses and PCMs for this engine, and to my surprise, they are pretty pricey online. Moses, could I use a Cherokee harness and computer with this engine? They have a bunch of Chrokees down at my local Pick&Pull.
  11. Hey Moses, I had actually already ordered a pilot bearing from Novak. I searched around for pilot bearings at the local auto parts store, and came across one on the web that could have possibly worked. I ended up going with Novak to avoid extra hassle. As for smog, it will need to go through a sniffer test, but I have all new exhaust, including a CARB legal cat. This morning, I came across a local ad for an AX15 transmission at a solid deal that was too good to pass up. I drove over to San Jose, California and picked up an AX15, which was also attached to the stock 4.0 off of a '93 Wrangler. I took them apart and discovered a pretty much new clutch. The guy I bought it from has a bunch of Jeeps and only needed the body. I'm still going to do a leak down test and thorough inspection to make sure things checkout. I've read about folks mating the AX15 to LM7 engines, which I happen to have in my garage. I would rather drop this 4.0 because I just want to get this Jeep running. I know it's not Jeep related, but here is a pic of my Nova. I dropped an LQ4 with some goodies and a built T56 into it.
  12. Hey Moses, It was definitely a disappointing engine tear down. I was inspecting the positions closer today and discovered another piston with cracks in the ring land. I’m attaching a picture of that, and another showing the mangled rod bearing. I’m really surprised that the engine wasn’t knocking like crazy when I fired the engine up when I first bought the Jeep. I might have a solution to the 4.0. I have a friend that may be able to make me a carb adapter for the 4.0 intake. If he’s able to do that, that would solve my problems. As for the flywheel and CPS, I don’t have them. I’ve seen some folks drill a hole into their existing bellhousing for the CPS as a cheap alternative. I’ll keep you posted on what happens. I’m going to go ahead and draft a template for the adapter.
  13. Well, I am back for an update. I decided to tear into the original 4.2 engine yesterday, and things just keep getting worse. I was going to do a rebuild of this engine and put it back into the Jeep for now, but someone really did serious damage to the 4.2. While tearing the engine apart, I found a a spun bearing on rod number 7. Surprisingly enough, the crank does not have any scoring or anything. It actually feels smooth. I'll have to check it with a micrometer. A few of the pistons came out with broken rings, but that was not the worst of it. As you can see, one (at least I hope only one) of the pistons is cracked. I hadn't noticed it until I was picking things up and about to call it a day. Right out of the corner of my eyes, I noticed the crack and it just ruined my entire plan of a simple rebuild. I just want to enjoy the Jeep, but things keep getting worse. I'm probably going to have to look for a harness and computer for the 4.0. If I can source that at a good price, I'll be able to use all of the front accessories and just drop the engine in. I've seen some computers on eBay that come with the key and immobilizer. I'll keep this post updated as I go.
  14. I was looking at Clifford intakes intakes, and explored that option as well. I truly don't understand what would possess them to do something like this. The biggest issue would be getting the power steering pump. If I could somehow get that to work, my troubles would be over. The problem with the CJ7 PS bracket is that it is mounted using the ear on the water pump, which the 4.0 Grand Cherokee pump does not have. I'll keep digging and try to find a solution to this issue. As for my ignition system, I went with a CRT HEI distributor.
  15. I hope the pictures worked this time? I would have done the LS swap, but my Jeep came with a T5 transmission, which would get destroyed behind and LS engine. It's an '82 CJ7. I have explored so many options to get this 4.0 in, but I just don't see a way without going the fuel injection route.
  16. Hi Moses, I am back with another update, and hopefully pictures that work. I pasted them onto the thread. So I went out and messed with the engine and mocked up some of the accessories to the engine. The first picture shows the missing water pump bolt on the lower right hand side. The second picture shoes the missing bolt hole for the rear power steering pump bracket mount. Both, the water pump and the power steering pump, are for a CJ7. My plan was to just go ahead and drill and tap the missing bolt holes for the water pump and the power steering pump. But when I moved on to the alternator side, I ran into a bigger issue that practically renders the idea useless. The remaining two pictures show a Grand Cherokee alternator bracket mounted because the CJ7 just didn't work. The CJ7 alternator bracket has a long bolt location going down towards a bolt hole on the bottom. The issue with this block, as seen on the last picture is that, not only is the bolt hole not there (least of my issues), but the webbing and those raised portions of the block interfere with the CJ7 bracket's lower portion. The actual lower bottom bolt locations for the original Grand Cherokee mount is raised and interfere. Looking at the offset difference between the Grand Cherokee pulleys and the CJ7 pulleys, I can't see a way to make this work. I did find that some time ago someone was making a carb adapter plate for these 4.0 engines, which would have been perfect, but he is no longer making them. This would have allowed me to use the 4.0 intake and keep a carb setup, and would have definitely been cheaper than a full efi conversion. Those EFI systems are so pricey. I actually have an LS engine sitting on an engine stand that would be so much easier to swap into the Jeep, but I don't have a tranny to work with the engine. Looks like a standard rebuild of the 4.2 would be the best thing to do. I have another 4.0 head that I can put on that engine, along with a mild cam for it to wake it up a bit. Conclusion: Unless you are doing a full EFI conversion, that will allow you to use the stock 4.0 intake, you will not be able to make a 2004 4.0 engine work.
  17. Hi Moses, Thank you for all of the wonderful information. My apologies for the pictures, I thought that they would show up directly on my post since they were showing up when I pasted the link. I have been doing a ton of research on this engine (should've done way before), and have come across the need to cut the 4.2 intake dowel location, but that is not that bad. As for porting, I have the carbide bur for that. I will be using the 4.0 intake gasket, and still need to get the 4.0 header style exhaust manifold, as the Grand Cherokee engine came with a two piece exhaust manifold. My biggest issue at the moment is the water pump that is preventing me from using the CJ7 accessory drive system (Serpentine reverse drive). the older 4.0 and 4.2 engine water pump has the ear to attach the power steering bracket to it. This 4.0 does not have it, and the bolt pattern is the same, except in the lower right side bolt location. I was thinking about drilling and tapping for that bolt. I hope there is enough block material there for the job. As for emissions, I am not too concerned about the visual inspection. The Jeep will have a complete new exhaust and catalytic converter to keep things clean, as well as a fully functional EGR system. I am doing away with the coil setup and picked up a CRT HEI distributor for the engine. I will figure out how to post pictures directly and post them in a bit. Thanks Moses!
  18. So I picked up a 2004 XJ 4.0 engine and didn't realize the many differences in the block casting from the older 4.0. It wasn't until I started doing more research on the engine that I realized this, but I did get the engine for a really good price that was too good to pass up. Being that I've already put in some time into this engine, I HAVE to make it work. The first issue that I ran into was with the driver's side motor mount pads on the block. on the older 4.2 and 4.0 engine, the top bolt pad is pushed back about half an inch, and on the XJ 4.0 they are flush with each other. So, I went ahead and cut the top one off about 1/2" and that left enough thread for the bolt. There is some space between the mounting plate and the block, but not much, that I am going to use washers. I'm hoping that will work. For the passenger side, I had to do some cutting on the CJ7 motor mount brackets and a bit on the block due to block webbing interference. Now, the next issue that I am facing is with serpentine accessory drive. I wish that I could just use the 4.0 accessories, but being that I did not get the harness and computer with the replacement 4.0, I am going with the carb setup. So I will be using the 4.2 intake. Unfortunately, the water pumps are different. The older 4.0 engines have the built-in power steering bracket on the pump, so it's not like I could go this route to solve my power steering issues. This is starting to be somewhat of a headache because it is turning out to be a much more involved swap than I thought. I wish that I could just go the fuel injection route and be done with these issues. This would allow me to use all 4.0 accessories without an issue.
  19. Hi Moses, I'm back for another update. Today, Sunday, I purchased a complete 4.0L Grand Cherokee engine. This engine also has the TUPY head and is complete, minus the engine harness and ECM. I would like to take advantage of the fuel injection system if I can come across a harness and computer. If not, I will have to put the carb intake just to make the trip in November. That LS article is great. I actually have an L96 engine on a stand that might make its way into the Jeep once I am done with law school and the BAR exam. I was saving it to drop it into my 1974 Corvette, but I just went with the original L82 engine and vortec heads for now. The car will be a gift to my dad, hopefully, for his birthday in December. I have read about the NV4500 transmission, and it sound like a really good option to go behind an LS engine.
  20. Thank you very much for the warm welcome. It is great to hear that you have been a part of the muscle car scene as well. I will definitely start a new topic on the build with lots of photos. California still requires emissions inspections on '76 and newer vehicles. I am planning on doing the smog using the OEM BBD carb, as Weber doesn't have a California E.O. number for their carbs. I did manage to get the head off this morning. The engine on that Jeep ('04 Grand Cherokee) looked like it was cared for pretty well. I kind of wish I would have just pulled the entire engine out, but I had to make it back in time for class. I have to take the head down to the machine shop to have it checked. I also managed to get the rocker arms, as I am not sure if the CJ7 rocker arms are the same. Thanks Moses!
  21. I have been looking at the required modifications for the swap and it doesn't look too difficult to do. Thank you for reminding me about getting the exhaust manifold. I would have definitely forgot all about it. I'm hoping to be able to go back tomorrow morning. I have read the instructions for the Weber carb and the need for a fuel pressure regulator. I still have to get that. I have looked into Rough Country's reverse shackle kit. It is a bolt on kit that requires some drilling to the frame for the front brackets, but definitely something I can handle. I am going to give them a call tomorrow to ask a few questions. I want to stick with their products since my lift kit came from them. Thank you so much for all of the help Moses. I will definitely have to pick up one of your books.
  22. Another question for you Moses. I am going to be installing a four inch Rough Country lift on the Jeep and was looking for heavy duty shackles. It seems like all of the "heavy duty" shackles are lift shackles. 1/2in. lift shackles are the smallest I can find. What is your recommendation for shackles?
  23. Moses, Thank you so much for your feedback. My local Pick-n-Pull just got as '04 Grand Cherokee, and I was there trying to pull the head, but ran out of time. It is a TUPY head, so I am hoping to go back tomorrow and pull the head from that engine. I took an impact to get the head bolts out, but I was not able to get the rear bolts out. I forgot to take my breaker bar with me because I was rushing before they closed, and that screwed everything up. That engine looked good: coolant in the block, pretty clean valvetrain, and looks like it passed California emissions just last year (did some research on that Jeep). I am thinking of just rebuilding my Cj7 engine and adding the TUPY head with the cam that I have. I also have a Weber 38 DGES that I was going to install on the Jeep before I found out that the engine was bad. I would definitely like fuel injection, but I will have to keep it simple right now in hopes of being able to finish in time for my wife's birthday. I am waiting on the piston rings for the rebuild. I have main and rod bearings here already. As for an LS swap, that's definitely in the plans. I have a '72 Nova that I did an LSX/T56 swap on, and the efficiency and power of these engines is incredible.
  24. Hello everybody, My name is Jordan, and I am new to the Jeep world. Although I am new to Jeeps, I have been wrenching on old and new muscle cars. I purchased my first Jeep, an '82 CJ7, a few weeks ago. I am hoping to be able to do a little off-roading and enjoy the Jeep with the family. The engine starts and everything, but I didn't drive it home and had it towed. Unfortunately, I performed a compression test and the results were not good at all. Two cylinders came back with low compression, and one was dead. I performed a wet test on the dead cylinder and the needle jumped right up. I stopped there and just gave into the fact that the rings are bad. I was planning a trip to Yosemite for my wife's birthday in November in the Jeep, but I am not sure it will happen. I have been thinking about rebuilding the 4.2, or going down to my local Pick&Pull and pull a 4.0 out of a Cherokee and possibly just rebuild that. What would you guys suggest is the quickest and best solution overall?
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