Moses Ludel

My only thought about the 1997 TJ Wrangler extension housing part number is the Advance Adapters comment that XJ Cherokee shift linkage will not work without the proper clocking—and vice versa. If they really did stick the XJ Cherokee extension housing transmissions in these first-year TJ Wranglers, there would be a linkage angle issue. One way to verify this is to see whether the shift linkage is the same in 1997 and 1998 for the TJ Wrangler. Also, the complete transmission assembly part numbers can be compared for these two years—and also back to the last-year YJ Wrangler (1995). If the transmission is definitely the YJ Wrangler/TJ Wrangler clocking, and not the XJ Cherokee/Dakota clocking at the extension housing, that would be a clue. When reasoning this out, the motive Chrysler would have for using your extension housing on the TJ Wrangler would be to standardize the transmission parts. This would also involve re-clocking the transfer case angle, though. This could be investigated. According to the Advance Adapters' notations, all 1997-2000 TJs have the same T/C clocking. An observation about the XJ Cherokee, and apparently your Dakota pickup, is that the transfer case clocking works for these longer wheelbase vehicles. I have excellent ground clearance at break-over angle with the Cherokee's 101" wheelbase, seemingly better than a 94" wheelbase TJ Wrangler with its deep skid pan. The TJ skid pan has a lot to do with this, the XJ Cherokee and your Dakota simply have a cross-member and a sheet metal plate for skid. The Dakota and Cherokee each have the transfer case well up in the chassis. The shorter wheelbase Wranglers require the deep skid pan for protection. Aftermarket, shallow skid pans have been popular for the TJ Wrangler, increasing the break-over ground clearance. Moses

Well, kudos to the Dakota-Durango forum members! Glad they valued the AX15 rebuild, the article has drawn steady traffic each month with its traditional how-to format. Please say, "Thanks!" I wanted to do a "blueprint" rebuild with each step covered under studio lighting like my books, and the unit happened to be destined for my son-in-law's YJ Wrangler. I knew the transmission was in store for some hard trail work! Very pleased to get that referral, the AX15 has seen use in the Jeep models, Dakota and Toyota trucks as the A150... Moses

Curious about the inverter wattage and motor draw. You might consider a battery management system if you do not already have one for your dual batteries. With the air compressor running and working on a field repair with compressed air, you could lose track of the battery charge state. Your neighbor's use of an auxiliary tank makes sense in any case, as you do need to stabilize the air volume available. One kind of tank that I've seen in use (just happens to be RareC8's Jeep Scrambler) is from an 18-wheeler tractor's brake system. He's cross-mounted the tank between frame rails, uses quality air line to the NPT ports, and it all works nicely without a huge expenditure! I like your idea of the computer fans and ducting. Your road salt and winters mean that no sheet metal can withstand exposure. I'd avoid drilling vent holes to the undercarriage if possible, if absolutely necessary to do so, seal the metal well! Moses

Hi, biggman100! A Ford E4OD shift problem like this can be solenoids, wiring or sensor issues. It is unlikely a mechanical issue other than bound or damaged shift linkage. There is a PCM (powertrain control module) that can throw codes. Use your Snap-On MT2500 to read codes if possible. I know of possibilities with the shift solenoids, perhaps a loose connection inside the transmission pan if you cannot find anything obvious in external wiring or visible plug/wire junctions. Let me know the codes thrown. If you need interpretation or analysis of problems and components related to a code(s), I have a wealth of Ford service data from this period. My Ford F-Series Pickup Owner's Bible published in 1994 (Bentley Publishers). Though the book is a companion to factory workshop manuals and not a "shop manual" in itself, I have the research data that includes OEM shop manuals for the F-series truck years from 1948 through your F-150 problem child. Pleased to help, the first step is any codes thrown, I checked the flow charts for your symptoms, there are peripheral problems and not anything "specific" to what you describe. Give me some fodder, and I will provide an interpretation. Moses

You're right, accidents are everywhere...Trailering is a craft, not an impulse. Watkins Glen is gorgeous country, I was there with Chevrolet for the initial media launch of the 1990 ZR1 Corvette, writing for Corvette Fever and many other magazines at the time. Had to drive a "tame" 116 mph on the track, as it was pouring rain, and the windshield wipers would not stay on the windshield glass at higher speeds. We visited the Corning plant, it was a very memorable event and wonderful area. You're fortunate... Understand the need for room and kids, we have four kids, all quite grown, seven grandchildren down to 17-months-old (Camden, who celebrated the week of his first birthday in the company of wild horses with Grandma, Grandpa and the Jeep Cherokee!), plus two toddler great grand-twin boys (the "Hellions from the Hill"—Virginia City). The Dodge Ram is a Quad Cab. Front seating is terrific for long trips. Leg room would work for your three girls, although a Mega Cab like Megatron's '06 might make better sense as the girls reach teen years. Actually, our oldest son and daughter-in-law survived a Thanksgiving drive from our area to San Diego in the back seat of the Ram 3500, they were thoroughly impressed and did not complain, our son is over six-feet tall and a big guy! Frankly, I was surprised. Lately, the name "Crew Cab" has returned, and that is full rear seating at the sacrifice of bed space. Our truck has only a 6.3' bed, by our choice, as the overall wheelbase is a maneuverable 140.5". My wife, Donna, much enjoys driving and riding in the truck, and SRW means the truck is as manageable as a 2500 series model or even a longer-wheelbase (Quad or Crew Cab) 1500. This works for us, although my bed space is zilch with the 75-gallon Transfer Flow cross tank. Wouldn't be without that tank, though, we have complete discretion about where and when we buy fuel and can outlast a price-gouging period. With the lift, accessories and added fuel leaning toward 9,200# curb weight these days, the fuel range without a trailer, at 20-22 mpg (65-67 mph), is 2,200-2,400 miles—much better mileage and range than our XJ Cherokee 4.0L! Pulling a loaded car hauling trailer at 60 mph is still 1,800-1,900 mile range, that's to Moab and back home with plenty of fuel left over. Caution: Drive faster with a diesel—you will pay for it in fuel costs and declining mileage! This works for us. Glad to carry the conversation further if you find it of interest. We'll move to the Dodge Ram forum! Moses

You're welcome, biggman100! I thought this issue could be beneficial to others as well. We're often finding parts that fit one model or the other. I found this interchange interesting and gained insight into Chrysler and Aisin parts use. As for that extension housing, I know they are out there. I'm hearing all the time about AX15 cores for $75 to $150, complete "rebuildable" transmissions. Given that you only need the extension housing and that your transmission is a quality core, my approach would be finding just the extension housing or the correct used transmission, one with obvious issues. The likely extension housing donor will be an XJ Cherokee unit within the years I describe, and this will be a direct fit. I have the Mopar parts catalogs from 1981-2008. In researching your extension housing, I found a misprint in the 1997 TJ Wrangler (first year) listing for the AX15: It shows your 04636372 extension housing! I know this is in error because the 1998-2000 TJ listings each show the 04636373 piece, which is consistent with the transfer case clock rotation for a YJ/TJ Wrangler—versus the XJ Cherokee, your Dakota or the rare Grand Cherokee. This also is consistent with Advance Adapters' brand new replacement AX15 that fits the 1997-2000 TJ Wranglers. I'm still puzzled over how many 1992-93 Grand Cherokee models actually had the 5-speed Aisin AX15 transmission. Personally, I've never seen a manual transmission (stock) Grand Cherokee. They must be out there, it would be interesting to hear from forum members who know of one. I'm certain the V-8 (1993-98) ZJs did not have a manual transmission offering. What a "screamer" that would have been, though! The AX15 has survived behind V-8 swaps and a lot of pounding. I like the fundamental design and believe it suitable for smaller V-8 use if not abused. I cover the AX15 rebuild at the magazine with a 209-illustration how-to. If/when you either repair your existing AX15 or perform a complete rebuild, you will find that article helpful at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-Rebuilds-the-Jeep-AX-15-Transmission,-Part-1-Disassembly-Inspection.html. This link is Part 1, there are two parts. Moses

Interesting...What's the amperage draw for the refrigerator motor? I'm trying to estimate the battery and alternator load and how much draw is involved for the inverter. Typically, the compressor runs for relatively short periods unless you're doing a major repair job. We can do the math on how much battery and alternator output this compressor and motor require. Of course, there's some energy lost with the battery and inverter process, but that's a trade-off. Did the refrigerator motor's power and the pulley ratio enable the compressor to run air tools directly? Or does he use a storage air tank, too? I'm curious about the pulley ratio and actual speed at the compressor's crankshaft. Putting the compressor and motor in an enclosed area sounds safer, out of the weather and a finger saver. You will need cooling of some kind in that closed space, optimally for both the electric motor and compressor. The York units do not have anything more than engine fan air movement. The pulley and clutch do not have fan blades like a generator or alternator pulley uses. Moses

To get a leg up on the snowshoeing, get plenty of exercise in the Fall! We'll motivate each other on this one, maybe keep score on how many times we do get out and the variety of outdoor "adventures" that can be had on snowshoes this coming winter... I'm motivated just by this dialogue...Would like to meet your father-in-law, too! Moses

Thanks for clarifying, biggman100...I'm not at all familiar with Subaru's V-6 engine or that engineering. I do have factory workshop manuals for each and every vehicle we have ever owned, plus bookcases of OEM manuals for anything I've ever worked on or written about... I can't help but suggest that I would not tow a 24-foot boat or 22-foot camper (a travel trailer?) with anything less than an SUV. In fact, we saw a two mile long line of traffic backed up on I-80 East near Reno yesterday as they mopped up a late Dodge Durango wreck that looked something like this: The SUV had a sleek enclosed trailer in tow, possibly a car inside and headed into Hot August Nights or the inaugural Barrett-Jackson auction at Reno; the trailer was on its side after rounding a curve, and the Durango's back end was up in the air at the height of the raised hitch assembly. My guess would be a classic shorter wheelbase tow vehicle's loss of control when the trailer gets squirrely. In any case, we've seen similar scenarios with Jeep Wranglers, other popular SUVs and even crossovers, each attempting to pull U-Haul trailers in crosswinds and on curvy roads. In my view, trailer weight ratings for these vehicles are often totally unrealistic, reflective strictly of powertrain and brake system capacity, not the vehicle's wheelbase length, track width, roll center or center-of-gravity. My used tow vehicle preference would actually be a Dodge Ram with the Cummins 5.9L diesel, a truck, well, just like the one we drive! If you read my exchanges with Megatron about fuel efficiency and modifications, and enter this level-headed without a burning desire to modify the vehicle, then you're in the league where we started with the '05 Dodge Ram 3500 4WD Quad Cab. In that stock form, the truck got consistent 23-plus mpg highway when empty and towed the XJ Cherokee to Moab on our car hauling trailer at 70 mph, still netting 17 mpg. With the stock gearing, stock tires and stock ride height, holding the vehicle to a 60-65 mph cap, towing a 7,000# load, the truck could deliver 18-20 mpg. I expect this truck to last 500K miles, which more than amortizes the initial added cost of the diesel engine option. There are 48RE quirks, which Megatron and I discuss at length, and there are other Dodge Ram nuances that need address. Overall, though, this may be one of the last 4x4s to deliver on its initial cost. I would likely replace this truck with another Dodge Ram/Cummins, even living with the 6.7L and its emission constraints. When? Not any time soon, I'm still driving the $42K MSRP out of our current truck! As a footnote, I do all of my own work on every one of our vehicles, regardless of the task at hand. So maintenance ease is crucial, and parts availability is a factor. We do buy domestic vehicles, whatever that means in this era of the "Global Economy", with offshore subassembly and service parts sourcing by the OEMs. (Our truck itself was assembled at Mexico. Chrysler and other U.S. manufacturers have many of their OEM and service parts built at Mexico and elsewhere around the globe.) Overall, the Dodge Ram is simply taking our best shot. Moses

Well, an engine-driven approach will work, and I can see myself fabricating brackets to work with the OEM belt system or an add-on pulley. There may even be a Dodge or Dakota truck pulley system that would work here, this is essentially a Chrysler LA V6/V8 engine design. I'm envisioning decades of 318 and 360 industrial strength engine applications that might be out there...Kilby Enterprises has goodies for York air compressor systems, including a bracket kit for the V-10 Chrysler engines. You might look at the Kilby parts available and see if any would work with your Dakota 3.9L V-6. If you go it yourself, work would entail aligning and balancing the pulleys, using the right York compressor (they mount upright or horizontally), addressing the belt load to assure reliability, correct hardware, adding a reservoir and plumbing as you describe, and so forth. I would not mount to the vehicle frame, as the engine moves in relationship to the frame, and belt tension would be impossible to control. Onboard, engine driven means engine mounted. There is an alternative, and I have it: a York compressor powered by a 12V motor. This unit was commercially built, and I looked online for the supplier without finding a listing. (If this sounds appealing, I'll take photos, share more details and research current sources, if any.) The entire setup stores in a sealed military canister. I have the available add-on tank. You take the compressor unit from the canister and use an Anderson plug to connect to your vehicle's high amp battery source. (Warn supplies Anderson plug cable kits to 20' length.). The compressor can be hooked to either end of the vehicle if you have heavy Anderson connectors at each end. This provides York-grade air volume and also the option of a reservoir tank for reserve when running air tools. On this same note, ARB now offers the twin-compressor system for 12V, higher volume air supply. Though certainly not an industrial strength York compressor head, this will handle light air tools and can be used with a reservoir, too. Imagine: You get to hear two ARB air compressors talking to each other at the same time! There are also other 12V compressor solutions. This is an option to engine mounting issues and does reduce vehicle fuel consumption, the same principle as a Ready Welder versus an onboard, engine driven frequency welder that puts a good load on the engine's high output alternator and burns fuel the whole time you're welding. There are pluses and minuses to both. Think of the electric compressor systems as something akin to a diesel-electric locomotive: The engine is simply running the alternator for a battery supply system; the compressor is electrically powered. Moses

Six years on a Jeep battery is quite a while. I use a Battery Tender in the winter on both of our magazine vehicles. We also use a block heater, plugged in the night before starting the engine, in cold weather (below 45-degrees F and down to zero or lower in our neighborhood). This is a necessity for the Cummins, as our traditional use of 15W-40 oil is daunting in cold weather. I'm looking into alternatives here... The Dodge Ram with Cummins engine should, by all accounts, eat up both batteries at around five years. Due to the steady use of the Battery Tender, all winter and in other seasons when the vehicle sets for up to a week without a start-up, we have gotten nearly nine years out of the OEM batteries and they're still okay. I've topped off with distilled water only twice in that timeframe. (No complaints about OEM Mopar batteries here!) I do expect replacement within a year; ten years for a diesel engine is amazing. Our Cherokee, much like your Wrangler, does get battery use. There's a winch that relies on a single 800 CCA battery, two Spal electric fans set to run after engine shutdown, and then there's the steady air conditioner use in the summer. All tolled, five years of battery life is just fine here... Let us know what you discover about your battery. The terminal fix is a must. Consider a Battery Tender, the best investment we have made in extending battery life! Moses

Six years on a Jeep battery is quite a while. I use a Battery Tender in the winter on both of our magazine vehicles. We also use a block heater, plugged in the night before starting the engine, in cold weather (below 45-degrees F and down to zero or lower in our neighborhood). This is a necessity for the Cummins, as our traditional use of 15W-40 oil is daunting in cold weather. I'm looking into alternatives here... The Dodge Ram with Cummins engine should, by all accounts, eat up both batteries at around five years. Due to the steady use of the Battery Tender, all winter and in other seasons when the vehicle sets for up to a week without a start-up, we have gotten nearly nine years out of the OEM batteries and they're still okay. I've topped off with distilled water only twice in that timeframe. (No complaints about OEM Mopar batteries here!) I do expect replacement within a year; ten years for a diesel engine is amazing. Our Cherokee, much like your Wrangler, does get battery use. There's a winch that relies on a single 800 CCA battery, two Spal electric fans set to run after engine shutdown, and then there's the steady air conditioner use in the summer. All tolled, five years of battery life is just fine here... Let us know what you discover about your battery. The terminal fix is a must. Consider a Battery Tender, the best investment we have made in extending battery life! Moses

All good points, biggman100, thanks! The throttle open is to provide sufficient air volume, I've always performed this test with the engine cold to "tepid" to avoid burning my fingers while removing the spark plugs! Hot air expands, so too warm is not practical for accurate readings, although your point is well taken about seal and various temperatures. I prefer removal of all plugs to take a load off the starter. When immobilizing the ignition, do not long-arc the ignition spark wire discharge on late ignitions, you can damage the coil and other parts. Don't crank endlessly, either. More is not better, in fact it wipes oil from the cylinder walls and drops the compression seal attributed to the oil film under normal engine operation. Intuitively, what works for me is a burst of 4-5 seconds, no more, to stabilize the volume output...You want an "honest reading", not wishful thinking. Moses

Choosing an air compressor is not a light subject. This can be an expensive purchase, and an unwise choice is costly and frustrating. This is not an item for "cutting corners" or bargain shopping. You will get what you pay for... When I needed an air compressor for the magazine's shop/studio, my thoughts were about air tool operation. My previous shop was well served by a DeVilbiss 80 gallon upright compressor and a quality black pipe system. That compressor was a two-stage (not "twin stage", avoid these!) iron compressor model that ran on 230V. Bought it in 1995-96 timeframe from Costco for $800. Our new, smaller scale shop/studio, I thought, could get by with a 20-gallon upright portable compressor and an iron, two-cylinder unit compressor head (two-stage, of course). The Ingersoll-Rand 'Garage Mate' fit the specifications I wanted, and that purchase proved wise—initially. There are jobs that require high volumes of air, and one in particular is bead blasting. The smaller compressors, you will discover, often make higher output ratings by running the compressor's rpm up the scale, to the point that service life becomes an issue. The DeVilbiss unit, in fairness, held up in this category with its 7.5 HP motor. (The I-R Garage Mate gets used so little that it should also last "forever".) Horror stories about sucking a reed valve on the DeVilbiss never happened, and that unit served faithfully for fourteen years—it was still working fine when we sold the shop property and the complete air system stayed at the shop. When I discovered the need for another bead blaster (had one at the previous shop, a very nice T-P Equipment unit), I thought a smaller unit would work fine with the Garage Mate compressor. It didn't. After much research and study, I realized that volume is everything for blasters, and my quest turned up a terrific solution: a used commercial compressor with a huge, slow speed Champion R-15 compressor head, 120 gallon horizontal tank, and a 5-horsepower, industrial strength Baldor 220V motor with magnetic starter. If you'd like to know more about this compressor, and perhaps what amounts to my sense of humor, read this account at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Downsizing-and-Air-Compressors!.html. For $250 less than the new I-R Garage Mate cost, I'm in business and so is the bead blaster! There are values like this around if you'll look and be patient. The Garage Mate works fine for quick, shorter burst air tool chores or inflating tires. I'll keep it, as the resale price is ridiculously low, and the unit is in "as new" condition. Moses

Interesting about Campbell-Hausfeld, that Walmart carries these tools. Some speak highly of the Kobalt line of tools from Lowe's as well... I would like to add that a recent purchase of a Chicago-Pneumatic CP7748 air impact gun was wise...For the heavily trafficked article at the magazine on rebuilding an 11.5" AAM axle (my Dodge Ram re-gear job), I purchased this 1/2" gun for around $200 from NAPA on sale (included a nice nylon tote bag, too!)...This is the most powerful 1/2" gun I've owned, and that's over a long time. (My CP734 has been in the drawer since the early '70s!) Here's a description at Illus. #98 of that article. I'm not in the habit of providing this kind of "free" publicity for non-advertisers' products, but C-P earned this one! I'm starting a topic on air compressors as a follow-up to the CP7748 comments... Moses

biggman100, this is valuable insight. Your combined computer/IT skills and past automotive shop experience are a real asset. Summed up, the MT2500 for $300 on eBay sounds like a bargain for what it's capable of doing. The diagnostics are model-specific and sound similar to what you would get from a DRB-III scan tool. I am curious how far the re-flashing goes. For example, I was able to do speedometer recalibration with the DRB-III because the software matched up with ABS module/revolutions per mile tire sizing. (See my HD video of those steps for details on how the DRB-III drilled down from hookup to the OBD-II port through actual re-flash of the revolutions per mile: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Dodge-Ram-Speedometer-Calibration.html.) So, this is a basic function within DRBIII. Is the MT2500 this accommodating if you have the Chrysler/Dodge Ram software cartridge? Since I'm not versed on MT2500 or OTC Genisys, my basic question is whether these types of diagnostic tools are a true alternative to DRBIII. I do understand that ABS and other module checks require added software, but is that included or available with the Snap-On, Mac and OTC programs? To the point, can you get just as much functionality from these aftermarket packages as DRBIII? Also, when you mention a reflash on a 1999 Wrangler (OBD-II, the perfect scenario for a dealership using the DRBIII tool), is the Snap-On software all that is required for the reflash? Or do you need proprietary software from Chrysler for a full "reflash"? As such, is the MT2500 software encrypted, or whatever, to allow a reflash or PCM reprogramming that involves emissions or other functions that require a vehicle VIN match? Chrysler's current Wi-Tech platform, which uses a PC computer, is a great idea, essentially streaming downloads or reflashes directly from Chrysler. This offers simpler interface for CAN on later models. Unfortunately, Wi-Tech will not work for OBD-II from the pre-StarSCAN era. On that note, I have a nearly new StarSCAN tool drawing dust. Unfortunately, we do not have StarSCAN vehicles, the magazine's "fleet" is DRBIII era OBD-II: a 1999 XJ Cherokee (same as your father-in-law's '99 Wrangler project) and the 2005 Dodge Ram 3500. I have friends at Miller/OTC who shared years ago that the StarSCAN tool's architecture could support DRBIII; however, that software has, to my knowledge, never been available. (I'm inquiring about an update on this or whether Genisys and other OTC software can be loaded into a StarSCAN tool.) Here was an FAQ comment made by Daimler/Chrysler upon the release of the all-new StarSCAN tool to dealers: "Will I still need my DRB III�? Yes. Upon its launch, the StarSCAN scan tool will communicate only with vehicles that utilize CAN as the communication protocol. In the future, support for both new and legacy vehicles will be added." Would be nice if the "future" were now for StarSCAN. This tool will not work on DRBIII applications nor will it work forward into the Chrysler Wi-Tech vehicle era! This reminds me of the IBM Quiet Writer typewriter I bought in 1986 for over $1,000, alleged to be the "future" for typing with its 6K character memory. The very next year, the editors at Argus Publications insisted that I submit manuscripts in PC word processing edit files on 5.25" floppy disks. I bought a Hyundai Blue Chip PC computer for $768 at Target, software beyond MS-DOS was extra. Catch-22: StarSCAN will not work with Wi-Tech vehicles, but by moving to Wi-Tech, there is legacy back to StarSCAN vehicles; dealerships must still use DRBIII for pre-StarSCAN vehicles, and that includes models as recent as our '05 Dodge Ram 3500 or a Jeep TJ Wrangler through '06. If it were available, DRBIII "legacy" software for the StarSCAN tool could permit its use backward into the DRB, DRBII, DRDIII era. As a point of interest, while you paid only $300 for your used Snap-On MT2500, used DRBIII units sell for $3K and more with all of the peripherals, and there are plenty...It would be interesting to know how many Chrysler dealerships have StarSCAN tools collecting dust in the wake of PC-based Wi-Tech. Here are models supported by StarSCAN: http://www.oemtools.com/images/Chrysler_2012_AppChart.pdf. Note that StarSCAN will not support vehicles from 2010 up. (There is mention of Bluetooth (HFM) flash use after MY 2010, otherwise nothing. Do you know about Bluetooth HFM flash?) Is this a mess or what?...StarSCAN was an expensive, well-engineered "Next Generation" tool that may only work on 2004-2009 Chrysler CAN vehicles—and Chrysler's CAN vehicles really didn't kick into gear until the 2005-2007 models! A tool for three to five years of model coverage? Really? StarSCAN sounds like the IBM Quiet Writer typewriter...and both were replaced by a PC computer and software! Moses

Works for us...Sounds like less of a novelty for your father-in-law! Syracuse gets more snow than the Flathead Valley in Montana most winters. Folks need to wrap their minds around the difference between "Upstate" New York and New York City... Moses

Great testimonials, Subaru is clearly a respected AWD! Difficult serviceability and higher maintenance/repair costs have become the new "normal" for most vehicles. Has Subaru dodged this pitfall? Or do things simply last longer on a Subaru before they require service? How does the Subaru stack up for serviceability? If you buy used and do your own work, will an '06 or newer Subaru be easier to work on than other vehicles in its class? How does the cost of Subaru service parts compare with others? Moses

biggman100, I'm on board with the idea of a later Subaru AWD if you can spring for an '06-up, and if they're past the head gasket fiasco. Are they?...It that's the same technology as daughter-in-law's Forester, it would do the trick! Moses

This is helpful, biggman100. I've thought about used OTC and Snap-On scan tools, wondering whether the software updates are available. These are near-dealership tools that can do some two-way data exchange and flashing. You're right, it's all in what you need, and I like your point about volume of use. Of course, I'd like a DRB-III scanner, but at $6K or a rental/lease fee plus a $6K deposit at TechAuthority, do I really need that caliber of scanner? Certainly not for recalibrating speedometers if I can access that same function on a pre-owned Snap-On or OTC setup. Do we really need expensive equipment, designed for shops and dealerships that can amortize the cost at labor rates of over $100 per hour? This topic has real value, helping us understand what we need and want in diagnostic equipment. So what, exactly, can you do with your Snap-On MT2500? It's a terrific buy, how will it pay for itself? Moses

Understood...Glad we're sharing ideas about a wide range of outdoor outlets...I just posted about snowshoeing, a reply to your topic on dog sled activities in the winter. When we're resourceful, year round outdoor fun can even be affordable! Moses

Now this sounds like great winter fun...We live at the high desert east of the Sierra Range and Reno. They do sled dog activities not that far from here in the Mammoth Lakes Area. What a great way, like you share, to break up winter cabin fever! We also like to snowshoe, one great hike locally is at the top of Carson Pass on Highway 88 over the Sierra Nevada Range. You're well over 8,000 feet elevation, in deep powder at places, yet the activity keeps you toasty. Hope Valley is another great snowshoe or cross-country ski area. I like to carry a backpack with sandwiches, always bringing hot chocolate for the smaller kids in the family. You can cover ground fairly quickly, three or four miles is not a hardship hike. Winnemucca Lake, accessible from Carson Pass, can be a good walk in decent winter weather. Fun and invigorating, you do need to acclimate if you're from a sea level area. Everyone should stay hydrated. As a winter sport, snowshoeing costs next to nothing: Buy a pair of lightweight snowshoes and poles, new or used, or rent them locally, pack your lunch, fill some Thermos bottles with coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Compare this to contemporary downhill skiing: The cost of costumes, exorbitant lift ticket fees, local lodging rates through the roof, the lodge food and beverage charges, etc. Snowshoeing or cross-country skiing is much more physical and very fun, plus the newer snowshoe designs make learning way easier—contemporary snowshoes are lightweight, yet you feel solid and can maneuver! Try it, you can start with a foot of snow pack on your summer four-wheeling or camping roads. The solitude and fresh air provide a real lift! You can even do this in conjunction with dog sled activity... Moses

I'll take a general approach and trust that other members will jump into the discussion with actual AWD experiences and facts on given models. I steer away from used European anything except pre-owned BMW motorcycles with good service records. I worked around VW, BMW, Volvo and Saab in the 'eighties, and they each sang the same tune: high maintenance costs, including exotic labor and parts charges, plus ridiculously poor return on investment, regardless of the initial purchase cost or fuel efficiency. A recent tale involved a family member with a late VW Jetta purchased pre-owned with very low mileage. The differential in the FWD segment needed work, just a side gear and one half-shaft defective. VW insisted that the only way to purchase the single differential side gear was within the VW rebuilt parts program, involving the complete Aisin six-speed automatic transaxle for $4,800 exchange plus the half-shaft assembly (installation labor not included). This is apparently acceptable with European cars, I recall BMW car repairs that also involved "complete parts assemblies" at exorbitant costs. So, that's one reason why the Japanese cars made inroads to the U.S. market. Today, however, Japanese car parts are also significantly more expensive than domestics. Go figure. I am aware of the Subaru track record for blown head gaskets in those models, we had a friend who accidentally bought a used Subaru from that cohort and had the repetitive issue you describe. Recent Subaru models have apparently returned the brand to its time honored status. A daughter-in-law really enjoys her late Subaru Forester, and it seems quite reliable, a traditional expectation with Subaru. (I did some work with Subaru around the launch of the SUS sedan years back, and the car seemed durable and utility bent.) There's nothing exotic about a Subaru, the fuel mileage is not extraordinary, either. However, these AWD cars offer utility with essential features—and for the most recent models, an exceptional safety rating within this market. This makes me happy with our daughter-in-law's choice, as our cherished grandchildren ride in the back seat of this car. I'm going to park it right here and ask others to be specific about AWD car experiences...We're a community at these forums, and this is time to help biggman100 and his wife make an informed decision! Moses

As we're well into another motorized back country summer, thanks for bringing up Tread Lightly...I am more than familiar, having served on the Tread Lightly! Board of Directors as the Media Representative for several years in the 'nineties. My membership dates to the earliest days, and I saw the organization grow...Bill Burke (4-Wheeling America) and I co-instructed the national Tread Lightly 4WD Clinics across the country under the sponsorship of Chevrolet, and I spoke and trail guided at new 4x4 vehicle launches on behalf of Tread Lightly!, Inc.—including Chevrolet, GMC, Land Rover and Mercedes-Benz. I am a strong advocate of 'Tread Lightly!' and its motorized vehicle ethics position. What I like most about Tread Lightly! is its non-political, on task approach to protecting the off-road environment. The theme is universal and inclusive of every off-pavement vehicle type and watercraft users as well. Bill and I often shared Leave No Trace ethics at our 4WD clinics and trail runs, and Tread Lightly! supports my dirt motorcycle interests and those of ATV owners, horseback riders, hikers and anyone else who appreciates outdoor recreation and the natural world. Tread Lightly stay-on-the-trail ethics and the notion of minimizing environmental impact each sends a clear, straightforward message. I have promoted low environmental impact four-wheeling and single track riding for over four decades and am very pleased to have worked on behalf of Tread Lightly!, Inc. I also enjoyed representing the Tread Lightly USA/UK Team at the 1996 Land Rover Trek competition, a mini-Camel Trophy physical challenge. I trained for that one, and we earned a podium finish with the combined four-wheeling, winching, riding an ATB in Georgia clay mud, ropes, canoeing and orienteering...Yes, I'm even known to hike, snow shoe, fly fish, horse pack and hunt on foot when the opportunity arises! Four-wheeling is often our access to hiking trailheads. As for liking 'Tread Lightly!', guess this makes two of us, Biggman100! Thanks for bringing 'Tread Lightly!' up... Moses

Hi, Biggman100! The part number (from my earlier search) is without the "1" at the end, the "1" is a reference to quantity. I'll edit that post listing to avoid any confusion... 4x4 applications with an AX15 transmission that use this 04636372 adapter part are within model years 1992-99 and include: 1) 1992-99 4.0L XJ Cherokee 2) 1992 MJ Comanche pickup with 4.0L six 3) 1992-93 ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L (Very rare, I've never seen one!) 4) 1992-99 3.9L V-6 Dakota 4x4 pickups like yours! I went back prior to 1992, and the numbers changed. This Mopar #04636372 adapter to the NPG/NV231 transfer case is reasonably popular. You have a long list for recyclers. Surely recycling yards and u-pull-it parts sources have a 1992-up Aisin AX15 from an XJ Cherokee, a rare 4.0L ZJ Grand Cherokee, the last MJ Comanche pickup or a Dakota V-6 application. You do want a "good used" piece, as the OEM Mopar replacement part under this number retails for nearly $800. (The part is likely outsourced through Aisin.) Let me know how this works out. There should be junk AX15 cores around that match your transmission's 23-degree clock rotation transfer case adapter #04636372—you only need a good adapter piece. Avoid the YJ and TJ Wrangler AX15 applications, they use the Mopar 04636373 adapter with the 13-degree transfer case rotation...Recall, the new Advance Adapters AX15 transmissions also have a 13-degree clocked adapter, which fits Jeep Wranglers to 2000 or 2001-2006 if you want to replace an NV3550. Moses