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XJ Cherokee Common Problems and Fixes

Jeep Cherokee XJ Cherokee Jeep how-to 4.0L Jeep Jeep SUV

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#1 Moses Ludel

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Posted 04 August 2013 - 09:08 AM

Recently, I've found time to catch up on some XJ Cherokee care. Our '99 had issues with the power window/door lock system, the A/C dash panel air flow and the "No Bus" gauge drop-off problem. Each of these problems is common to the XJ Cherokees and TJ Wranglers, making forums all over the internet.  On our Cherokee, I worked through the troubleshooting and solutions for each. 

 

If your Jeep XJ Cherokee or TJ Wrangler is experiencing erratic dash panel air flow with the heater or A/C controls set to different positions, you'll want to check out this new article at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Air-Conditioning-Fix.html.  Another symptom to consider is the cruise control and the A/C and heater panel settings not working when you're climbing a grade with the Jeep.  I made the Chrysler TSB #24-12-99 available as a PDF download.  This is one cure, but it did not apply in our case...

 

If your power windows, door locks and remote door lock control are not operating properly, you'll want to see my recent article: http://www.4wdmechan...eplacement.html. This includes troubleshooting symptoms and the actual replacement of a door switch module.

 

If your dash instruments suddenly drop-off to zero with the engine running or on the road, or if the "No Bus" signal appears at the instrument panel with erratic gauge activity, you may have the electrical connector issue that I address in the article: http://www.4wdmechan...Gauges-Fix.html.  This how-to goes into detail about the problem, the parts involved and the fix, including soldering a new plug and wires into the dash panel circuit.  I even included a PDF of the Chrysler/Jeep TSB #08-15-99 on this problem for both the Jeep XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler.

 

Having troubles in these areas?  Check out the three new articles at the magazine.  Another issue is the rear door latch and having to press the outside door release button with great force to open the door.  Possible remedy:  There is a slot on the rear facing edge of the door that has an adjustable slide for the door button.  Work the button and watch this lever move.  You can loosen the Torx screw and move the lever/button adjuster to allow for a full throw of the outside handle button when you press the button.  This and some white lithium spray lube at pivot points of the latch mechanisms can have your "defective" rear door latches functioning as new!

 

Moses



#2 hsporterfield

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 07:02 PM

"If your power windows, door locks and remote door lock control are not operating properly, you'll want to see my recent article: http://www.4wdmechan...eplacement.html. This includes troubleshooting symptoms and the actual replacement of a door switch module."

 

Thank you for this article, I'm having this exact problem. One question for you is how do I tell if the trouble is from the driver door or the passanger door control module?



#3 Moses Ludel

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 08:52 PM

Thanks for joining the discussion, hsporterfield!  The XJ Cherokee in the article is our 1999 Cherokee Sport 4-door with power windows, power door locks, power mirrors and remote keyless entry (RKE).  The passenger side front door module is the "brains", containing both relays and switches.  A quote from Chrysler helps:

 

     "If the power lock system is inoperative with either front door power lock switch, test the Passenger Door Module (PDM)...If the power lock system is inoperative with only the driver side front door power lock switch, test the Driver Door Module (DDM)."

 

I can help you troubleshoot beyond these symptoms, too.  If your trouble fits either scenario, or your RKE will not activate and you suspect a bad PDM, or if your passenger front window will not open from either the left or right front door switches, then you need the PDM like we did.

 

Many replace both switches, can't hurt, but why pay $175 when you could pay $75 (as we did via an online genuine Chrysler/Mopar parts source, including shipping)?  With the relays and switching that take place within the PDM (right passenger front switch module), it's best to replace this right front door module/switch assembly—in any case

 

Simply replacing the right front passenger door switch/module assembly restored the right front window lift function from both the driver and passenger switches; restored the power door lock function from either front door; and restored the remote keyless entry (RKE) door unlock and lock function from the fob.  Make sure the fob's battery is in good order, too. 

 

Let us know how this turns out, this is a common switch failure, and the part is usually on hand!  We look forward to your topics and posts!

 

Moses



#4 AusJeep

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Posted 15 December 2013 - 09:27 PM

Hi from Australia, Moses! 

 

I'd like to fill you in on the problems of my current 1999 Jeep Cherokee (Country) XJ model.

 

Just to get this out of the way, as you may know we have right-hand drives down-under, so I had to get my head around your tutorial; How-to: Jeep Cherokee Power Window and Door Lock Switch Replacement, haha!

 

Similar to above, I'll list my issues:

 

  • I am unable to use the electric windows from any passenger door panel.
  • I am able to use the door lock from the passenger door.
  • I am able to use both the door locks and the electric windows from the drivers door panel.
  • The RKE also does not work (and have changed to fresh batteries).

If the fix is just as you mentioned in your tutorial (i.e. changing the PDM or DDM) that would be great.

 

Also, cheers for all the helpful tutorials you do mate, you're a real champ!

 

Regards,

 

AusJeep



#5 Moses Ludel

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 01:03 AM

AusJeep, thanks for joining us at the forums!  I became aware of your RHD switch positions when looking for LHD switches.  Your front door switches are opposite to our U.S. '99 XJ Cherokee. 
 
Below, you'll find a PDF from the Mopar parts catalog.  Note the RHD switches versus LHD.  The model codes describe RHD, LHD, 2WD, 4WD, 2-door and 4-door.  The switch listings describe the combinations of power options.  Zoom into this document for a closer read and view.

Attached File  1999 XJ Cherokee Door Switches.pdf   116.58KB   235 downloads
 
For a RHD model, you should need a left front door switch/module, which should have the relay for master circuits covering the windows and door locks.  The article at the magazine provides further details, the URL link to the magazine article is in the postings above.  Just see your Jeep as the mirror image of a LHD model.  If your symptoms mimic my Jeep, you likely need the switch for your left front door, the heftier one with built-in module.
 
Follow the troubleshooting approach I describe...If you narrow the switch to the left front door, I'm curious about the pricing at Australia. The RHD (master module) window switch is quite expensive at the U.S.  I'm trusting it's much less costly in a part of the world where there are many RHD models!
 
If you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.  Unless there is a wiring or fuse issue, these switches generally "cure" the problems you're experiencing.  Please confirm, I share the troubleshooting details at the magazine article.  I would comment that on our Jeep, changing the right front door switch has been a lasting fix since.  The driver's door switch still works okay.
 
Moses

#6 AusJeep

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 10:38 PM

Many thanks for your timely response Moses. 

 

Give me some time to try and decipher your attached PDF and do the handywork, and I'll certainly get back you ASAP.

 

Again, thanks for all your help.

 

AusJeep.



#7 Moses Ludel

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Posted 16 December 2013 - 11:21 PM

When I was troubleshooting this issue, I researched the Mopar description of how this window system works. The article at the magazine is useful in that I share the Mopar strategy. This helped me narrow down the switch change to just the one that would make a difference. Take a few minutes to review that article before plunging into a switch replacement:

http://www.4wdmechan...eplacement.html

Moses

#8 AusJeep

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Posted 17 December 2013 - 11:01 PM

Hi Moses, I've got a bit of news for you.

 

Before I went off and bought a new PDM from Mopar Parts (I had much trouble finding an Australian dealer that sold RHD versions, and was only ever directed to US sites which sold them for $175 Aus dollars).

 

So...

 

I went down to my local auto scrap yard, and sought out the single 1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ that they had there.

 

I went to the passenger door and removed the PDM as per your instructions (went off without a hitch!). 

 

I then went home and popped my Jeeps door panel off, swapped PDMs, put it all back, AND....

 

Nothing.

 

The interesting thing though, is that the door lock still worked with the Original PDM, and the one I pulled from the Auto yard.

 

(As I said, the power locks still worked in the passenger door, just not the power windows...)

 

Does this suggest that there is an underlying issue with the power window wiring, deep within the door itself?

 

Just to re-iterate, none of the power windows are able to be used from their respective doors, except from the Drivers door panel.

 

Regards,

AusJeep.



#9 Moses Ludel

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Posted 18 December 2013 - 03:41 PM

Well, the good news is that you now have an extra module, and considering the price of a RHD window module, you'll want a spare on the shelf at your garage!

 

Here is the entire troubleshooting flow for your window problem, the official Mopar version.  I even added a wiring diagram from the XJ Cherokee Manual...Note that the circuit breaker at the Power Distribution box is high on the list.  Read this through, you'll know what to check next.  Let us know what you find.

 

Moses

Attached Files



#10 AusJeep

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 05:09 PM

Hi Moses,

 

Thanks for your ongoing help, and those PDFs, it's a really great thing you're doing here.

 

Just a quick question;

 

Would changing the Driver Door Module be advisable, as I also managed to grab one from the auto-yard.

 

Even though I can activate all Windows and Door Locks from the DDM...

 

Cheers,

AusJeep.



#11 Moses Ludel

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 10:37 PM

AusJeep, you have me thinking in reverse!...I have reasoned that your RHD driver's door switching is my left (driver's) door in the U.S. model.  (Please look at the PDM module that I replaced in our Jeep; see the magazine article.  Does that look similar to the module you bought at the recycling yard and installed?)  On the U.S. model, the PDM (passenger door module) contains the relay and master switching circuit.  Is that the kind of switch you replaced at your left front door?

 

To answer your question about the DDM, Mopar notes offer a clue.  Keep in mind that they talk about the U.S. model with LHD:

 

"The DDM also contains an integrated circuit to support the one-touch down feature of the driver side front door power window..."  The driver door one-touch down switch would affect the driver's window at least.  See my highlights in the Mopar comments below.

 

The DDM could also have a defect in the power window lockout mode, in which case changing the DDM could resolve your problem.  Again, if that's not your source of trouble, you are still ahead to snag that recycling yard driver's door switch.  The price for a new switch can only go up over time...Generally, the driver's door switches operate more than the other switches and should wear out sooner.

 

At my how-to article within the magazine (click here for access), I offer my comments plus more details from Mopar:

My comment: The symptoms for a defective right front door lock and window switch on our 1999 Jeep XJ Cherokee were three-fold: 1) the passenger could not operate the power window or door lock, 2) the driver could not operate the passenger window or any door locks, including the rear hatch door, from the driver's door switch panel, and 3) the remote key fob door lock activator did not work.  The driver could operate the other three power windows.  (Switch replacement begins with the door panel removal.)

 

Jeep%20Cherokee%20Switch%20How-to-5.JPG

Passenger side (LHD) door lock and window switch.

Mopar's description...Here are the official functions of the Driver and Passenger Door Modules (switches):

 

"A Driver Door Module (DDM) and a Passenger Door Module (PDM) are used on all models equipped with power locks and power windows. Each door module houses both the front door power lock and power window switches. In addition to the switches for its own door, the DDM houses individual switches for each passenger door power window, a power window lockout switch and the power mirror switch. The PDM contains the control circuitry and the power lock and unlock relays for the entire power lock system.

 

"In its role as the power lock control module, the PDM receives inputs from the battery, the ignition switch, the DDM, the driver door ajar switch, the key-in ignition switch, and the headlamp switch. It also receives a hard-wired input from the remote Keyless Entry (RKE) receiver, if the vehicle is so equipped. In response to these inputs, the PDM sends the proper outputs to control the power lock motors through its integral power lock and unlock relays.

"The DDM and the PDM are mounted to their respective front door trim panels. The DDM and PDM are serviced individually and cannot be repaired. If the DDM or PDM, or any of the switches and circuitry that they contain are faulty or damaged, the complete DDM or PDM unit must be replaced."

 

Our system's symptoms met each of the requirements for a defective PDM.  We ordered the right front door switch (your left front door) from a Mopar source.  I replaced the one switch and solved all of our problems at the same time.  Let us know if the DDM completes your repair, AusJeep.  

 

Moses



#12 ehlinn

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 05:42 AM

Hello,

 

I also drive a 99 XJ and my passenger side power window has an issue. My first problem was the window lock failure that I was able to correct. However, my front passenger side window switch operates in reverse: up makes the window go down and down makes the window go up. This is true for the switch on my drivers side master panel as well and only for that window.

 

Any ideas?  Any chance you could point me to the genuine mopar part source you use?

 

Thank you,

 

ehlinn



#13 Moses Ludel

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 07:40 PM

That's a new one, ehlinn.  Here is the Mopar official parts section for the 1999 XJ Cherokee switches, pay close attention to RHD versus LHD, 2-door versus 4-door and such:

Attached File  1999 XJ Cherokee Switches.pdf   116.59KB   61 downloads

 

Read the legend at the bottom to distinguish your model type.  Switches are different for various world markets.

 

You can zoom into the pages for details...These are official OEM part numbers.

 

Trust this helps...

 

Moses



#14 khop92

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Posted 01 February 2015 - 02:12 PM

I need help!

I have a 1998 jeep cherokee xj. The windows will work with the door switches, but the door locks will not work. Testing the wires coming from the drivers door actuator we were able to find out that the Orange (lock) wire was grounded out somewhere. We found the problem and fixed it. Still no luck. Nothing is working.

When trying to test it at the wires by the actuator themselves it used to unlock the doors, but now lock and unlock won't work. Please help.

#15 khop92

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Posted 01 February 2015 - 02:19 PM

Update. If I ground out the wires coming out of the drivers door actuator then I can use a power probe and unlock and lock all the doors just fine. But the switches for the locks still won't work. Do I just need to replace the switch consoles? Or what?

#16 khop92

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Posted 01 February 2015 - 02:21 PM

If I griund out the lock wire I can power probe and use unlock. And vice versa.

#17 khop92

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Posted 01 February 2015 - 02:22 PM

The problem with the lock wire was that a screw had gone through it. I don't know if that helps or not.

#18 Moses Ludel

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Posted 01 February 2015 - 07:40 PM

khop92...Sounds like a burned switch or switch relay now.  The ground-out may have been a lower amperage short for a while before complete circuit failure.  Try bypassing the switch(s) for the lock circuit with a jumper lead.  If the locks work properly with a jumper, then you know the problem is the switch itself.  It's assumed that fuses are okay, right?

 

These switches are not great to begin, there is also a relay in the right side switch know to stick or fail.  Try the jumper approach first before spending money on the switch modules...Scroll back up through this thread for a discussion of the switch functions and wiring circuits for power windows versus locks.  There is also a PDF with factory details.

 

Moses



#19 Pelagius

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Posted 05 June 2015 - 11:44 AM

Moses, 

First of all I would like to say thank you for this gem of information! I would also like your opinion, I have a 99 XJ Sport with power windows, with the following issues, the rear windows can be controlled by the driver door controls but not the controls on the doors themselves, (I believe this is from a faulty window lock sensor in the driver door)  and the passenger door seems to get intermittent power. Most of the time neither the driver door or the passenger door can activate the window, until the stars align just properly and both the driver and passenger controls can control it normally. Then I drive a bit more and the connection loosens again somewhere. Any pointers on where I should begin my search? Thank you once again for all the information!

Jason



#20 Moses Ludel

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Posted 06 June 2015 - 05:14 AM

Jason...On our '99 XJ Sport, replacing the right front door switch eliminated 99% of the issues, though there's still a quirky, every once in a while reluctance for the right front door window to operate from that door's switch.  Parked with the sun on the passenger side of the vehicle seems to trigger the issue.  The switch will begin working again properly when, as you share, the stars align.  All will go fine for an indefinite period of time. 

 

I believe this is a relay or electrical contact issue at this switch.  A friend with a '98 replaced both driver and front passenger switch assemblies, and he's having good luck.  The new switches are apparently not failsafe, though.  Resistance anywhere can be an issue, reducing the voltage needed to close a relay or a switching circuit.  As you hint, connections are a prospect. 

 

Note that the PDM (right front door switch) has circuits that tie to several other electrical circuits.  Direct factory explanation:  "In its role as the power lock control module, the PDM receives inputs from the battery, the ignition switch, the DDM, the driver door ajar switch, the key-in ignition switch, and the headlamp switch. It also receives a hard-wired input from the remote Keyless Entry (RKE) receiver, if the vehicle is so equipped. In response to these inputs, the PDM sends the proper outputs to control the power lock motors through its integral power lock and unlock relays."  If you like to borrow trouble, the issue could be at any of these areas, though typically the door window and lock problems center at door switches.

 

The clue for me is that direct sun heat on the door can clearly affect the right front door switch's window function.  This means that either the connections are weak, a relay sticks or the electrical wires or contacts at the switch have too much resistance.  (When this sunlight issue occurs, the driver's door switch will activate the front passenger window without a problem, ruling out excessive window motor resistance.  The lift cable and motor have been replaced.)  When heated, resistance rises and an "open" occurs.  When the system works, it works flawlessly.  Currently, the right front window activates perfectly—whether the vehicle parks with sunlight on the door or not.

 

If you're on a budget, try cleaning the switch connection plugs and contacts at both front door switches without bothering to replace any parts.  Do not scrape contacts with anything sharp.  Simply clean the contacts with a high quality electrical spray contact cleaner that can remove debris and black surface oxidation.  The rear switches are a possibility, though they seem to act up less frequently and get used far less.

 

If cleaning switch contacts does not remedy the issue, given that these switches are failure prone, on a four-door I'd try a right front door/window/lock switch first.  If that's not a thorough fix, move to the driver's side control switch, which is costlier.  Do one thing at a time to narrow down what actually cures the problem.

 

Please let us know what works for your XJ Cherokee!

 

Moses



#21 Duvall2012

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 07:51 PM

Hello Moses,

So I've been having some issues with my 98 Grand Cherokee.  At first, the dash lights flickered in intensity. Then, when I moved the steering wheel, the headlights will go off.  Now, my gauges aren't working(lights are on though), my anti-theft light stays illuminated and my power windows/locks are not working.  I've checked all fuses and battery voltage and everything seems fine.  Any ideas?



#22 Moses Ludel

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Posted 06 August 2015 - 09:07 AM

This sounds like a possible short in the steering column wiring circuit.  The steering wheel movement should not affect these other systems unless there is a short to ground or open in the wiring or defect in the column switches or controls. 

 

Has the steering wheel been removed?  Are the switches, especially the turn signal switch, creating issues?  Check the harness connector at the base of the steering column under the dash.  Unplug the connector and see whether this alleviates any symptoms....The wheel movement is involved in a fault or open in the electrical system, and this is not a small matter, as there are a number of systems involved.  Points to a short to ground or high resistance (including a poor connection) in the wiring.

 

On the XJ Cherokee and TJ Wrangler, there are a variety of troubles that trace to the plug-in connectors behind the instrument panel.  I show the OE recommended repair that involves installing new plugs and leads behind the panel for the XJ Cherokee.  Perhaps this is a trouble spot on your Grand Cherokee's system.  Check out my article, it may prove helpful:  http://www.4wdmechan...Gauges-Fix.html.

 

Concerned about the steering column involvement, but here is a place to start...Before plunging too deeply, check for faulty system ground connections and battery terminal issues.  On a DC system, grounds and grounds resistance can be as important as positive feeds.

 

Moses



#23 Duvall2012

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Posted 06 August 2015 - 03:50 PM

Thank you so much for replying so quickly.  So you think that the connector could have something to do with everything?  Honestly, I've been able to deal with the tilting issue for quite some time now, I'm more concerned with the gauges and windows not working(since all of them are slightly open); as a side note, I also noticed today that my a/c is not working.  It blows air, but never gets cold.  But this could all be from that one connector?



#24 Moses Ludel

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Posted 07 August 2015 - 05:44 AM

Duvall2012...Not likely "only" the steering column connector, judging by the multiple troubles.  Instruments and the door locks are unrelated to the steering column circuit feeds.  The A/C is unrelated, too.  The A/C clutch may not be engaging.  You can confirm this by having someone switch the A/C on and off while you watch the A/C compressor from a safe distance.  The clutch should engage and spin the center of the unit.  Otherwise, you're not pumping refrigerant through the compressor.  A defective A/C clutch can wreak havoc and create considerable resistance in the electrical system if the clutch coil tests defective.

 

You may have a "global" problem.  On a D.C. electrical system, grounds are equally important to hot leads.  With a professional grade multi-meter, I would safely disconnect the battery cables from the battery and run a continuity test (ohms resistance) from the battery positive terminal to ground.  If there is continuity, the hot side circuit has a short or leak to ground.  I would also run an insulation resistance test at the positive lead.  Check ohms resistance between the two disconnected battery cable terminals as well. 

 

A pro meter can also induce non-destructive voltage and find a short through the insulation to ground or between wires.  This could involve testing circuit wires in combinations or pairs if you suspect a short or voltage leak between wires within a harness like the steering column harness.  The column connector would be a place to check for shorts between wires with both insulation resistance testing and a continuity test.  Unplug this connector and run these two tests between the plug contacts going into the steering column and also check between contacts on the plug side going away from the steering column (both sides of the disconnected plug).

 

Caution:  I would unplug the PCM leads when running the insulation resistance test on the overall system.  I'm not confident that the PCM can handle the "non-destructive" meter induced voltage.  No point in blowing out an electronic PCM component.  Be sure to set the meter for the voltage range that is closest to 12VDC.  (For most pro meters, this is 50VDC.  That's plenty of non-destructive voltage for this test.)  Avoid pushing higher voltage through light gauge wire circuits.

 

I'd be looking for a problem that is "common" to the entire system, like a voltage leak to ground or too much resistance at a ground to body/chassis or the engine.  Even a defective battery cell (test the battery) or bad connections at the battery can create these troubles...Check all ground connections to the body, power distribution (underhood fuse/relay) box and the engine.  Check for shorts or high resistance (opens or loose connections) at the power distribution box.  There's too much resistance or a voltage leak somewhere, possibly a short or insulation leak in a major, common circuit...You're not blowing fuses, or that would be a hard short to ground.  I'd start by looking for loose connections and poor grounds.  Check the solenoid wire terminal junction at the starter motor, a loose connection(s) here can wreak havoc.

 

If a ready issue does not show up and all of these diagnostics sound overwhelming, it might be worth a trip to the local automotive electrical shop that specializes in wiring troubles...

 

Moses 



#25 garlandxj11

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Posted 09 August 2015 - 09:32 AM

I am working on a similar issue. 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport

 

1.  Randomly the window switches from doors other than the drivers do not work.

2. Doors randomly lock when hitting a bump

3. Rear window wiper actuates randomly when hitting a bump

4. Front door speakers do not work.

 

I found your article extremely helpful in laying out my troubleshooting tests.  However I can across a couple of videos on youtube who's process I am incorporating into the process.  As my window and door lock problem is intermittent, a short seems more likely than the PDM.

Steps being taken

 

1. Remove passenger door card and examine connections to PDM   (Complete - No sign of moisture or damage)

2 . Disconnect the wiring loom boot from the body and push it into the door to expose the wiring loom contained inside.  (This prevents cutting of the protective boot and it can be re-used. (Complete)

3. Remove wiring loom fabric protective coating and examine wires for damage.  There are one or two wires inside that have a hard plastic cover.  Opening and closing of the door results in breakage at either end of this plastic sheath.  (Complete - Passenger side appears to be in good shape.)

 

4. Repeat procedure on drivers side.  - (In progress.   It is 107 degrees F here in Texas today and I don't have a garage to work in )

 

5.  Once wires are checked and or fixed it will be time to look at the inside of the DDM.  I have found a common problem where the solder joints connecting the window lock out and door lock switches fail where they connect to the printed circuit board.  All connections on the circuit board will be re soldered for good measure.

I just wanted to add those small parts about the solder joints being prone to failure and the known issue inside the wiring loom where the wires go between the body and the door, just in case it can help someone else find their issue.

 

I will update with what I find in the driver's door wiring and in the DDM itself.

 

As for the rear wiper going off when I hit a bump I am at a loss on where to start with that.  :)  any ideas would be helpful.  

 

Ken Camer



#26 garlandxj11

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Posted 09 August 2015 - 10:45 AM

Update:

 

Located 2 broken wires in drivers side wiring loom

Located cold solder joint in drivers side window module for the window lock switch.

 

https://goo.gl/photo...QjBQKGKaTRGvxH8

 

https://goo.gl/photo...JN5ypEPRM7o7Y19



#27 Moses Ludel

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Posted 09 August 2015 - 06:08 PM

This is very valuable, Ken!  Thanks for sharing and the commitment to a cure.  Any light cast is worthwhile. 

 

These problems can seem "global".  I installed a new right side/front door switch some time ago, genuine Mopar variety, it likes to work wonderfully for months then suddenly stops working.  Give it a week or two, it decides to work once more and often flawlessly for months.  This is a clear sign of too much resistance, unlikely a full open. 

 

Worth mentioning is that the right side front window always opens and closes without a fuss—from the driver's side switch.  I'll check the Mopar switch thoroughly for sticky contacts or excessive resistance.

 

Your comments and two photos are troubleshooting gems.  I'll share my findings after pursuing your approach.  I also want to run insulation resistance tests with non-destructive voltage.

 

Thanks!

 

Moses





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