Jeep JK Front Axle Housing May Be Twisted

[goalie94]

Recently saw a super awesome detailed response from you about caster and camber and figured I’d ask here for the right answer as I’ve gotten a lot of bad advice already. 

 

Intro post to share. Just bought a new to me 2012 Jeep Jk. Previously had a TJ for the past 5 years and have our first kid on the way so needed something with more doors. I bought the jeep with all the modifications on it.

Jeep has a 3 inch lift. Rock Krawler lower arms maybe synergy uppers
Jeep has anti rocks way bar.
Flipped steering with Reid knuckles 
dana 30-4.88 gears.
Adams drive shafts
Ten Factory axle shafts. 
A bunch of other stuff...

Needing some help and some of the people over on Facebook just arn't helpful. Bought the jeep maybe 3 months ago and it has been issue after issue. I bought it from a small auto shop who said he bought it with a bad transmission, rebuilt the transmission and checked everything over. Stupid me believed everything and I bought it. Front end seemed loose so I took it to a shop to get checked out and confirmed that some of the front end components were shot and needed replacing. Also noticed at the same time that one of the rear springs was cracked... Ordered new springs and 1 ton steering and thought I should be good to go. Took it to get an alignment and shop said Axle is twisted based off my Caster. one side was 3.01 degrees other side was 1.65 degrees. 


Got a couple Questions.....Not sure what route to go. Started looking for options of what I could do besides getting a new axle and having to swap everything over and regear.

1. Started taking stuff off the front end and notice both lower control arms have a TON of play in them... Any way that my Adjustable control arms are effecting the Caster differences. 

2. Does it really matter if Caster is so far off with the left and right... based off of what I know so far I think that Caster won't effect tire ware.. what does cross caster effect.

3.Come across Caster ball joints... Was wondering if anyone has experience with putting on an offset ball joint to get my Caster closer.

Would love to keep the same Axle... Get it good to go, add a truss and gusset and run it.

[Moses Ludel]

Welcome, Goalie 94, pleased to have you on board at the forums!  Your questions are clear and sensible.  Here's my take.  See red highlighted comments:

On 11/28/2022 at 5:22 PM, goalie94 said:

Recently saw a super awesome detailed response from you about caster and camber and figured I’d ask here for the right answer as I’ve gotten a lot of bad advice already. 

Intro post to share. Just bought a new to me 2012 Jeep Jk. Previously had a TJ for the past 5 years and have our first kid on the way so needed something with more doors. I bought the jeep with all the modifications on it.

Jeep has a 3 inch lift. Rock Krawler lower arms maybe synergy uppers
Jeep has anti rocks way bar.
Flipped steering with Reid knuckles 
dana 30-4.88 gears.
Adams drive shafts
Ten Factory axle shafts. 
A bunch of other stuff...

Thanks for detailing the modifications and aftermarket products on your JK...

Needing some help and some of the people over on Facebook just aren't helpful. Bought the jeep maybe 3 months ago and it has been issue after issue. I bought it from a small auto shop who said he bought it with a bad transmission, rebuilt the transmission and checked everything over. Stupid me believed everything and I bought it. Front end seemed loose so I took it to a shop to get checked out and confirmed that some of the front end components were shot and needed replacing. Also noticed at the same time that one of the rear springs was cracked... Ordered new springs and 1 ton steering and thought I should be good to go. Took it to get an alignment and shop said Axle is twisted based off my Caster. one side was 3.01 degrees other side was 1.65 degrees.

This is unusual but possible, most often any axle housing "damage" is camber or a bent axle tube.  Axle tubes are unlikely to rotate at the center section end—although that's not impossible.  Look closely for any shifting or movement where the tubes join with the center section of the housing. (Both the Dana 30 and Rubicon 44 axle housings use smaller diameter, lighter duty front axle housing tubes.)  See my additional comments in answers to your questions below...

Got a couple Questions.....Not sure what route to go. Started looking for options of what I could do besides getting a new axle and having to swap everything over and regear.

1. Started taking stuff off the front end and notice both lower control arms have a TON of play in them... Any way that my Adjustable control arms are affecting the Caster differences.

It is possible with your link arm adjustability to rotate one end of the axle housing.  In terms of geometry, this would also require the axle ends to be shifted or mis-aligned with the frame's centerline. (A thorough four-wheel alignment, which includes thrust angle, should have shown this misalignment.)  You can check this with a simple string-in-cross or "diamond" check of the front and rear axle housings' alignment to the frame.  The rear axle must be square to the frame's centerline and laterally aligned with the frame's centerline before performing a string-in-cross check.

I would isolate and secure the complete axle housing on level stands and measure the caster angles at each side.  This can be done roughly with a protractor and straight level; a magnetic bubble angle gauge would be helpful.  The idea is to "draw" a centerline through the ball joints at each side and measure the angle with an accurate spirit level.  The lower ball-joint flats can often serve as an angle/reference point.  The goal is to measure and compare each side to see whether the axle housing and housing C-ends are true.  With stock steering knuckles, camber angle error is most common, but in this case, measure both caster and camber.

If the axle housing "C" ends (where the ball joints seat and an imaginary line drawn through the centerline of the upper and lower ball-joints) are actually within measurement, consider either damage to the steering knuckle(s) at one or both sides or inaccurate ball-joint seat or hub flange alignment with the aftermarket steering knuckles.  (These knuckle issues would show up as Steering Axis Inclination (SAI) error on a thorough wheel alignment.)  A bent knuckle, misaligned ball-joint seats in the knuckle or a misaligned wheel hub flange could affect caster angle.  Loose ball-joints will also distort the caster and camber. 

2. Does it really matter if Caster is so far off with the left and right... based off of what I know so far I think that Caster won't effect tire wear.. what does cross caster effect.

Caster is most important for the steering return to center.  Too little caster will not direct the wheels to center when coming out of a turn.  I would be more concerned about the 1.65 degrees rather than the 3.01 degrees.  I like to see 4-degrees or even more if tolerable.  (The usual limiting factor here is front driveline U-joint angle at the pinion shaft, especially with a low-pinion axle housing.) As a visual, open knuckle GM straight axle trucks in the day called for 7-plus degrees positive caster.  To your point, this measurement is subjective and reflects steering return-to-center coming off corners. However, positive caster also tightens up the turning radius of the vehicle, so the minimum setting for caster angle (positive degrees) should be the factory setting.

3.Come across Caster ball joints... Was wondering if anyone has experience with putting on an offset ball joint to get my Caster closer.

Within reasonable parameters, you can get offset ball joints (a popular source: Specialty Products/SPC) that will compensate for either (or both) caster and camber errors. Many axle housings get saved by use of an offset ball-joint if 1) the range of error is not extreme (usually within 2-degrees correction, which you describe) and 2) caster/camber/toe-in can be adjusted within acceptable range.  My only concern here, as long as alignment can be achieved, is to what degree stress or physical damage led to the caster or camber error.  If, for example, the steering knuckle is bent, it would be wise to replace the knuckle if that restores caster/camber.  Bent or highly stressed steering parts  or axle housings should be replaced.  Check for physical damage, stress cracking or any signs of severe damage.

Would love to keep the same Axle... Get it good to go, add a truss and gusset and run it.

An offset ball-joint(s) would be a fix and acceptable if the axle housing and knuckles are otherwise in safe, serviceable condition.

Let us know what you find...

Moses

 

[goalie94]

Forgot to upload this. 
thanks for the response! Got some work today. 
I know for a fact I need to increase the caster. 
I just didn’t know if it’ll be ok if one side is like 6.5 and the other side is 5. 
maybe all that will be a non issue once I deal with some of the other stuff. 
 

 

[Moses Ludel]

goalie94...Unless there are signs of damage, abuse or stress, I would do the simpler ball-joint correction once you have the chassis dialed in.  If both sides come close to each other for caster, 5 degrees positive caster would be a good setting with the oversized tires.  Cross caster is a consideration (factory cross caster is 0.0 degrees), so try to get the caster and camber close to factory settings and matching side to side.  I am fine with 4.2 degrees (factory) to 5 degrees positive caster.

The offset ball-joint, since it can be rotated 360 degrees, can compensate for caster, camber or both.  After setting up the chassis, figure out what you need to accomplish with caster and camber, then consider an offset ball joint. 

You have several chassis, wheelbase and alignment provisions with the aftermarket suspension. Much to go right and much to go wrong. Setting up the chassis always begins with getting the rear axle square with the vehicle's centerline (thrust angle) and the axle centered laterally. The rest falls into place with diamond strings getting the front axle squarely in position before the wheel alignment. Diamond strings will center and square the front axle while also assuring that the wheelbase measures the same at each side. 

All four wheels square, you can get the front end checked, set up the preliminary alignment and determine which offset ball-joint you need.  Keep us posted on how this turns out...

Moses

[goalie94]

Ended up putting a geometry bracket on the Jeep and stock control arms on the lower front that I had laying around. 
still having some issues with cross caster but I’m getting more comfortable with this!

 

I did have one question. 
an I better off putting one off set ball joint and having it adjust that side 1.5 degrees or am I better off increasing the one side by like 0.75 and decreasing the other side by 0.75?

 

from researching I feel as though the camber should still be alright as long as I rotate the tires often  

 

 

 

 

 

[Moses Ludel]

Goalie94...Yes, you're really close...I would do the one ball-joint approach and bring that side to 4.1 degrees positive (1.5 degree correction for caster only).  The camber is not a significant issue, as you suggest.  Yes, I would rotate the tires regularly to be sure.  (I've seen 0.75 degree of camber on new Jeep beam front axles.  Either this is factory "normal" but out of specification range or from being tied down too tightly on a transport.)  As this is negative camber, be certain the knuckle ball-joints and front unit hub bearings are okay and not worn enough to allow hub flange tilt.  

The rear axle is interesting.  Negative camber.  Not a dramatic amount but suggestive of a heavy load on the rear?  Is this an OEM 44 rear axle?  Axle bearings okay, no radial play at the shaft ends?  Is your JK an Unlimited?  Extra weight like armor/bumper, etc.?

If you do the one ball-joint, you'll have a livable arrangement as long as there are no signs of physical stress or questionable damage to the axle housings.

Moses

[goalie94]

Awesome!

Any idea if I’m better off doing the top ball joint or the bottom ball joint? Found the same offset for either one. 

 

I think the axle is stocking… I know it has aftermarket shafts. It is an unlimited and has some extra weight. 
 

I’ll have to do some research how to check axle bearings. 

[Moses Ludel]

goalie94...See my reply below...

On 12/16/2022 at 3:19 PM, goalie94 said:

Awesome!

Any idea if I’m better off doing the top ball joint or the bottom ball joint? Found the same offset for either one.

Really good question.  If either of the current joints have any looseness, that might aid your decision.  Otherwise, I would first verify that the axle shaft is running on center.  If there is an apparent shaft offset with the steering in the straight ahead position, this would dictate which ball-joint you want to replace.  (Envision the 1.5 degree positive caster offset and what that would do to the axle shaft position.)  If the axle shaft is on center, I would install a new offset upper joint on a JK axle.  This is the weight bearing ball-joint.  The replacement joint would be a new, quality piece. 

I think the axle is stock… I know it has aftermarket shafts. It is an unlimited and has some extra weight.

I mentioned stock axles being off-camber from the factory.  Ironically, it makes no difference whether this is on the short or long tube side.  I aligned a cream puff, unabused TJ Rubicon with a 44 front axle that had 0.75-degree negative camber at the driver's side.  This side has a short tube between the "C"-flange and axle center section, which should make this section less vulnerable to twist or bending.  However, with the coil spring platform, lower link arm bracket plus the axle tube-to-C flange welding all within this short section, this side is probably more likely to warp during housing production than the long side.  (Your JK also has a short tube at this side.)  The only things that could cause this error are either improper factory fit-up during the welding process or warp during that welding procedure.  Given the amount of welding and the varied metallurgy of the pieces, warp/distortion would be very difficult to prevent during the beam housing's construction.  

To put in perspective what these axle housings do under stress, I did some research.  JCR Off-Road makes axle housing trusses, and their video tips on welding help viewers understand the stress points on the axle housing.  (JCR's welding tips should be helpful to installers.)  The number of trusses/gussets and their attachment points clarify how these Jeep axle housings bend and twist in service.  Jeep JK Unlimited/JL/JT models are heavy, and these axle housings, even with 44 center sections, are vulnerable to distortion and bending:

https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/JKF-CG.html

I’ll have to do some research how to check axle bearings.

This is relatively simple...Wheel/tire raised slightly off the floor, use a pry bar to lift the tire.  Watch the relationship between the axle housing end and the brake rotor.  There should be little or no perceptible up/down movement here.  The Dana 44 (Rubicon) bearings are tapered roller type.  The bearing cone presses onto the axle shaft and is secured with a press-on lock ring.  After watching the JCR video, I am more likely to suspect rear axle tube bend than wheel bearing wear but check anyway...The negative camber is not extreme if you rotate tires as you describe.

All of this indicates the inherent issues with these beam axle tubes and knuckle C-flanges.  The older aftermarket adjustable trusses (fitted at the bottom of the axle housing) made sense.  Tightening a turnbuckle truss across the axle housing (bottom) might even eliminate slight negative camber error.  If so, a come-along or portapower could be rigged temporarily to do the same thing while installing trusses and gussets.  Once the axle housing is true, weld-on truss/gussets could be installed.  Done carefully with the cooldown periods described in the JCR video, the axle housing would be aligned and rigid.  I'd like to try that experiment.

Moses

 

[goalie94]

Alright tore Into the Jeep today. Kind of impressed myself with how torn apart I got my Jeep (hopefully it all goes back together good.) haha. 
 

Anyways found the lower ball joint was shot! Tons of movement could move it with my pinkie. Pressed the upper ball joint out (somehow broke it in the process) was going to press out the lower ball joint and noticed it didn’t look like it was fully installed. (Look at picture below) it wasn’t pressed in enough to allow a C clip. Noticed that the other side was the same. 
 

My questions now….

1. Could a bad ball joint cause that much caster difference?

2. How does a ball joint not pressed in all the way effect caster? Or does it?

3. Even if it takes more work…. Should I be installing stock ball joints. Getting another alignment on the Jeep and then figuring out what I need offset wise ?

4. Recommendations on a good cheap ball joint (not sure if that exists but there’s a chance that the ball joint stays installed for less than 24 hours if I end up still needing an offset one. 

[Moses Ludel]

goalie94...Great pictures and questions...See my reply below...

19 hours ago, goalie94 said:

Alright tore Into the Jeep today. Kind of impressed myself with how torn apart I got my Jeep (hopefully it all goes back together good.) haha. 
 

Anyways found the lower ball joint was shot! Tons of movement could move it with my pinkie. Pressed the upper ball joint out (somehow broke it in the process) was going to press out the lower ball joint and noticed it didn’t look like it was fully installed. (Look at picture below) it wasn’t pressed in enough to allow a C clip. Noticed that the other side was the same.

This is actually the normal fit for these lower ball-joints.  They do not use a C-clip.  The joint shoulder seats against the axle housing's C end.  The joint's shoulder is a solid stop for the joint.  Weight of the vehicle and the hefty press fit keep the lower ball-joints in place.  These look like factory-installed joints. 

My questions now….

1. Could a bad ball joint cause that much caster difference?

There could be some caster shift but more likely camber error with this loose joint.  With a loose lower ball-joint and axis inclination angle, the vehicle weight and joint shift would create more negative caster.  At this point, you have an issue:  Should you get the 1.5 degree correction joint or not?  If the upper ball-joint was not loose, you likely still need the lower correction joint as I explained in my last reply.

2. How does a ball joint not pressed in all the way effect caster? Or does it?

The joints are seated properly, so this is not a concern.  If the lower joints were not seated, the knuckle would not fit properly.  The upper joint stud would be stretched downward in an effort to close the gap at the tapered ball stud.  Either the joint's ball seat would be damaged or the tapered stud would never seat in the knuckle.

3. Even if it takes more work…. Should I be installing stock ball joints. Getting another alignment on the Jeep and then figuring out what I need offset wise ?

You likely will still need the 1.5 degree offset lower ball-joint.  Even though the lower joint is very loose and needs replacing, when setting on the alignment plate/rack, the weight of the Jeep would close the ball-joint gap.  The alignment error would not be affected that much.  (Loose ball joints would create front wheel shake and other problems.)  I would install the new lower correction joint in the direction you originally planned (angling the offset joint to push the caster out to 4.1 degrees positive, a match for the other side and specs).  Then cross your fingers and get another alignment check.

4. Recommendations on a good cheap ball joint (not sure if that exists but there’s a chance that the ball joint stays installed for less than 24 hours if I end up still needing an offset one.

That's the other approach...Go on Amazon and buy a cheap ($15-$20) stock replacement offshore ball-joint for temporary use.   Install the cheap joint and check the wheel alignment.  Then either get a correction joint if needed or install a quality stock replacement ball-joint.  A quality joint can be had for under $30 (MOOG being one example). 

Moses

 

[goalie94]

Man ohh man! Love the response and the in depth. Hopefully with both of us documenting this so well it'll help someone else in the future that has an issue with a slightly bent axle that won't be abusing the vehicle and can make it work for a long time with a cheaper fix.

 

Im sure the lower is the original I checked the upper ball joint number and noted that its the OEM ball joint. 

 

 

Going back and forth. (And still kind of deciding) I think my go to will be to put a solid ball joint in the lower. For a couple of reasons. 

1. Since for most people you gotta remove the upper ball joint to install the lower due to clearance issues and stuff. It would eliminate having to go through removing both of them.

2. And maybe more importantly, The only offset I have noticed for the lower are all 1.75 degree.... The ball joint is a common one that is used in a variety of vehicles so its probably decently strong however I don't love that the only option is 1.75. When looking at upper ball joints there are a variety of different options from 0.5 degree 1.0 degree 1.5 degree and 2.0 degrees. Also a lot of the uppers look to be greaseable unlike Moog lower K7043. 

3. Im thinking put a solid lower ball joint in. Put a cheapish upper ball joint in. Go get the vehicle aligned. Figure out ideally what number makes sense.... If the lower ball joint effects camber and the camber is increased I might not need to try and adjust both I can maybe focus only on the caster. If not I can factor in the amount needed for camber and caster and install both. 

 

 

Ive decided as long as Im getting good at this I might as well do the other side as well and double check that the ball joints are decent. Make sure everything is solid when I go to check the alignment again. 

 

[Moses Ludel]

goalie94...See below, I think you're on it...

4 hours ago, goalie94 said:

Man ohh man! Love the response and the in depth. Hopefully with both of us documenting this so well it'll help someone else in the future that has an issue with a slightly bent axle that won't be abusing the vehicle and can make it work for a long time with a cheaper fix.

That's the reason we're each investing time here...Others can benefit.

Im sure the lower is the original I checked the upper ball joint number and noted that its the OEM ball joint. 

They look original style, and I can tell by the removal pattern that both were factory installed...I've seen a lot of ball-joints come and go!  These look original.

Going back and forth. (And still kind of deciding) I think my go to will be to put a solid ball joint in the lower. For a couple of reasons. 

1. Since for most people you gotta remove the upper ball joint to install the lower due to clearance issues and stuff. It would eliminate having to go through removing both of them.

2. And maybe more importantly, The only offset I have noticed for the lower are all 1.75 degree.... The ball joint is a common one that is used in a variety of vehicles so its probably decently strong however I don't love that the only option is 1.75. When looking at upper ball joints there are a variety of different options from 0.5 degree 1.0 degree 1.5 degree and 2.0 degrees. Also a lot of the uppers look to be greaseable unlike Moog lower K7043. 

Greasable upper is okay...See my comment below on why I prefer a permanently sealed (no zirk, non-greasable) lower joint.

3. Im thinking put a solid lower ball joint in. Put a cheapish upper ball joint in. Go get the vehicle aligned. Figure out ideally what number makes sense.... If the lower ball joint effects camber and the camber is increased I might not need to try and adjust both I can maybe focus only on the caster. If not I can factor in the amount needed for camber and caster and install both. 

I like your approach here.  Smart reasoning.  The lower ball-joint without a zirk is for practical purposes:  This is a surface exposed to trail debris, rocks, etc.  A grease fitting could get knocked off.  Also, the bottom of a sealed ball-joint is solid and stout (like the OEM joints).  The sealed joints seem to last plenty long if installed correctly—protect the dust seal when using the C-press and cups!

The upper offset joint selection/sizes are optimal.  Most shops only do the upper joint.  You can rotate the offset to catch a bit of caster and a bit of camber correction, which many do.  See the SPC site for details, but there is an indexing ring for determining the variety of caster/camber positions.  Put some thought into whether you want to correct for both caster and camber, then pick the degree offset that will accomplish what you want.

Ive decided as long as Im getting good at this I might as well do the other side as well and double check that the ball joints are decent. Make sure everything is solid when I go to check the alignment again. 

Again, smart.  Not useful to fix one side then align, then discover the other side is loose and make that repair, then align again.  This is not difficult with your tools.  It's best to do the whole thing one time and get to drive the Jeep for a long time!

Moses

 

 

[goalie94]

Sorry everyone for the delay, 

Should have been done almost a week ago. Parts came from RockAuto and was installing everything. Everything was going great until I got to the upper ball joint and realized all the ball joints I was installing were knurled and all of the adjustable ball joints were not knurled. Did some research and seemed like once you go knurled you can't go back so everything was on hold for a couple of days while I ordered a cheap normal ball joint for the right upper so that I could replace it with an offset once everything got checked out.

 

Ball joint came and went to get an alignment. Nothing had changed. Both Cambers were about 1 degree...

Caster on the drivers side was 4.1 and caster on the passengers side was 2.7. Reading online sounds like I want a little higher caster on passengers side to start so I'm right around 1.4ish that I wanna add. Probably will end up with the 1.5 offset and call it good!

Gotta order and wait now. 

[Moses Ludel]

goalie94...Really wise to not install the knurled joints in a housing C-end that had original (snug fitting) ball joints.  Once removed, the knurled joints would create a loose fit for the next joints.  The knurled joints are for slightly worn bores or to compensate for rusty material removed when an old ball-joint is frozen in place.  

Your alignment results were as I thought.  The loose joint(s) with vehicle weight on them gave nearly the same readings as new ones.  So, time for the 1.5-degree offset ball-joint.  Great work, methodical and exacting.  You'll have predictable results.  Keep us posted...Happy New Year!

Moses

[goalie94]

Alright  we are nearing the end of this!

Got the Moog K100312 1.5 degree ball joint, Lined her up and installed it so only thing being effected was the Caster. Got everything buttoned up. Took the jeep in and lo and behold everything was good to go! ball joints were very similar, passengers side was a little higher but sounds like from stock its a little higher on the passenger. 

 

Latest dliemma I have the Metal Cloak geometry bracket installed so I could use stock control arms for now....If I am on the lowest hole my caster is around 6.0 and if I use the center hole my caster is around 4.3.

 

Not going to worry to much about it as I am going to put slightly taller springs since the jeep has Reid Knuckles and a Flipped Drag link kit. Sounds like I should have 3.5 inches of lift and currently the jeep has a small 2.5 inch lift.  

 

Should I be Trussing and Gusseting the jeep since at one time the axle was obviously bent? 

[Moses Ludel]

Excellent, predicted results, you should be very pleased with your work here.  I am glad to know MOOG has this part and the part number.  I had previously thought that SPC was the only source, and MOOG is a known OEM brand.  (There must be a substantial market for ball-joint alignment corrections on these beam axles!  Not surprising.)  Thanks for furnishing the part number.  Expand and see my comments below...

On 12/29/2022 at 2:41 PM, goalie94 said:

Alright  we are nearing the end of this!

Got the Moog K100312 1.5 degree ball joint, Lined her up and installed it so only thing being effected was the Caster. Got everything buttoned up. Took the jeep in and lo and behold everything was good to go! ball joints were very similar, passengers side was a little higher but sounds like from stock its a little higher on the passenger. 

Great to know MOOG has this part.  Good news...

Latest dliemma I have the Metal Cloak geometry bracket installed so I could use stock control arms for now....If I am on the lowest hole my caster is around 6.0 and if I use the center hole my caster is around 4.3.

So, stock is around 4-degrees positive.  This is a personal choice.  6-degrees positive will certainly work well, though I would rotate the tires regularly.  In you decide to go "stock" with specifications, moving the caster forward to 4-degrees positive may throw off the toe-in setting.  If the steering wheel position changes in the straight ahead position, that's a clue. 

Another factor here is front driveline pinion angle.  You have a double-cardan (self-cancelling angles) at the transfer case, so the only concern is the front pinion yoke joint angle.  6-degrees positive does increase this angle, which is not an issue if the angle is well within the U-joint's designed operating angles over the full range of the suspension travel.  Better yet, your JK Wrangler Rubicon has a high-pinion 44 front axle, which further reduces the U-joint angle concern...Check this, anyway, it could be a factor.

Not going to worry to much about it as I am going to put slightly taller springs since the jeep has Reid Knuckles and a Flipped Drag link kit. Sounds like I should have 3.5 inches of lift and currently the jeep has a small 2.5 inch lift.  

Well, this may turn out to be your answer.  The longer springs will rotate the axle housing forward and reduce the axle's positive caster angle.  You may end up between 5- to 6-degrees positive.  If you use the 4.3-degree positive holes and install the longer springs, your caster could end up less than 4-degrees positive, which would be undesirable.

Should I be Trussing and Gusseting the jeep since at one time the axle was obviously bent?

That's clearly an option and depends on your intended use of the Jeep...As the video revealed, such an install needs to be done very carefully, as warpage will occur if not done properly.  Do you have a MIG welder?  The other concern is heat damage to ball-joints, differential seals and the axle tube-to-center housing seals when trusses and gussets are installed on an assembled axle.  The truss/gusset company's video seems responsible, a heads up and guide. 

One other factor, not mentioned, is lighting the axle lubricant on fire, which can happen if welding heat and heat transfer/dissipation bring oil to its volatility point.  The presenter did emphasize short stitch welds and full cooldowns between any welds in the same area.  This would help reduce risk of an oil fire within the axle housing.

This caster match-up is good, including cross-caster.  Camber is higher than specification but not a deal breaker.  You can compensate, as you noted, with regular tire rotations.

Note: I have SPC FasTrax alignment equipment and can measure camber. If I were installing axle housing trusses like the types shown in the video, I would rig a come-along and attempt to carefully pull out that 1-degree of camber error either before or during welding process.  (With my camber gauges in place, I would install the top trusses first, keeping tension applied to hold the housing on specification. Since the error is in negative camber, doing the top trusses first would maintain correction as the housing cools. With the camber corrected, I would then weld the bottom trusses into place, making sure the camber does not change.) Tension applied throughout the cooldown period would probably work best.  I would only try this while installing trusses; distorted or bent metal likes to return to its distorted shape. However, when installing trusses, you are heating the axle housing (making the straightening easier) then increasing the housing's rigidity and strength with the trusses.  1-degree is a relatively minor shift, especially at the longer axle tube side.

This would pass for "stock" settings with camber being over-negative but not extreme.  Thrust angle is good for an aftermarket suspension system.  Rear camber is still puzzling, you should be able to live with it, though.

If the steering gear is on high-center with the wheels pointed forward (straight ahead), these specs should be good geometry for handling, control and on-center driving.  The natural return to center after corners will be good with either caster setting.

Moses

[goalie94]

Sooo 95% sure that the Moog and and of the Offset ball joints are the exact same as the SPC one. I know because I ordered the Moog from Amazon and then ordered the SPC one from O'Reilly  and they were exactly the same. Im guessing all the aftermarket brands are using the same SPC ones. 

 

By the way I only had a dana 30.  

 

Well might be going a different route completely. 

I advertised in my local Jeep Facebook looking for some used springs if someone was going to be upgrading this winter (On a tight budget and first kid is on the way in April) Someone messaged me saying he was going to be upgrading to 1 tons and was going to sell everything as a package deal. Wheels and tires, Axles springs and shocks and control arms for a very good price. Probably going to jump on this for a few reasons:

1. Axles are straight and no offset ball joint needed. Also front and rear axles are already trussed which saves a bunch of money since I don't have a welder or confident in welding it myself.

2. Gears are what I want. My jeep currently has 4.88's and from what I have read up im going to want to go 37's with 4.88s however with the twisted axle I don't think that's a smart idea. The new axle would come with 35's and 4.56's which sounds better for what I want

3. Springs and shocks are included as everything else is. Im calculating by the time I sell my axles and stuff I should only be out a couple hundred and have a lot stronger setup. 

 

I am a little frustrated that I wasted a ton of time messing around with everything however I have learned a lot and now a ton more confident in everything. Enough that I feel confident to swap axles lol. 

[Moses Ludel]

goalie94...Ah, a Dana 30...Thought you had a Rubicon Edition with 44s.  Is the Facebook Jeep a Rubicon?  Or are you swapping a 30 front for another 30?  (If so, your current axles are acceptable if you're on a tight budget or time constrained.)  I do like the 4.56 ratios for stamina over 4.88s, and 35" tires are plenty unless you plan to drive rockpile trails like the Rubicon.

If the net cost is only a couple hundred dollars, there's a strong argument for getting the trussed axles (if the trussing was done right and housings are straight after trussing) with 4.56 gears, the wheels, tires, axles, springs and shocks.  Just be sure these pieces are as represented; diplomatically ask for pictures of the trusses to see the weld quality.  The quality of the aftermarket gear set installations is always a crapshoot.

Happy New Year!  2023 should be an exciting year for you and your growing family...Congrats!

Moses