Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Administrators

Stout...Trying not to avoid your direct question, I would emphasize that the I-H trucks of that period were ordered ala carte, each vehicle's Line Set Ticket unique and looking much like an order sheet—because it was.  If you have the original or duplicate Line Ticket for the truck, the document often indicates the shipping weight or FOB weight.  This is very close to actual curb weight.  Line Set Ticket (LST) duplicates are available at:

https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/LST.html

As a broad guess, I would characterize the curb weight of a 3/4-ton regular cab 4x4 with "8-foot Bonus Bed" at somewhere between 6,200 and 6,800 pounds.  I could be off.  Options would tip the scale. 

I managed to find this spec sheet/ad for the lineup of 1972 I-H pickups.  4x4 ("All-Wheel Drive") is footnoted in fine print as "available".  Specs for a 4x4 are not listed, and the key would be the weight capacity for the live front axle.  Traditionally, if you use the gross vehicle weight range (GVWR) as a yardstick, for a 3/4-ton capacity truck, you subtract 1,500 pounds from that GVWR figure to determine the approximate curb weight.  The base or "Standard" 1210 rates 6,300 pounds, which would put the 2WD base model at 4,800 pounds curb weight with its 2WD beam front axle.  The Optional 7,500 and 8,200 pound GVWR would be more like a 4x4.  Here's the link for some general information on these 1972 models: 

https://content.wisconsinhistory.org/digital/collection/ihc/id/35533

Unless this question is about a potential vehicle or project that you have in mind, if you have access to the truck, run it over truck scales at a truck stop.  The scales are very accurate and will provide the front axle weight versus the rear axle weight.  If you plan to actually use the truck, the bed load or a camper needs to match up with the vehicle's axle ratings and the weight distribution front and rear.

If you can get the vehicle to a truck scale, remove all excess items, run the truck low on fuel, and get out of the truck during the weight tally.  When you have firm axle weights and the total (curb weight), please share the details with us.  Let us know the Line Set Ticket features for the truck.  Others can benefit from your findings.

Moses

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/6/2021 at 6:37 PM, Moses Ludel said:

Stout...Trying not to avoid your direct question, I would emphasize that the I-H trucks of that period were ordered ala carte, each vehicle's Line Set Ticket unique and looking much like an order sheet—because it was.  If you have the original or duplicate Line Ticket for the truck, the document often indicates the shipping weight or FOB weight.  This is very close to actual curb weight.  Line Set Ticket (LST) duplicates are available at:

https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/LST.html

As a broad guess, I would characterize the curb weight of a 3/4-ton regular cab 4x4 with "8-foot Bonus Bed" at somewhere between 6,200 and 6,800 pounds.  I could be off.  Options would tip the scale. 

I managed to find this spec sheet/ad for the lineup of 1972 I-H pickups.  4x4 ("All-Wheel Drive") is footnoted in fine print as "available".  Specs for a 4x4 are not listed, and the key would be the weight capacity for the live front axle.  Traditionally, if you use the gross vehicle weight range (GVWR) as a yardstick, for a 3/4-ton capacity truck, you subtract 1,500 pounds from that GVWR figure to determine the approximate curb weight.  The base or "Standard" 1210 rates 6,300 pounds, which would put the 2WD base model at 4,800 pounds curb weight with its 2WD beam front axle.  The Optional 7,500 and 8,200 pound GVWR would be more like a 4x4.  Here's the link for some general information on these 1972 models: 

https://content.wisconsinhistory.org/digital/collection/ihc/id/35533

Unless this question is about a potential vehicle or project that you have in mind, if you have access to the truck, run it over truck scales at a truck stop.  The scales are very accurate and will provide the front axle weight versus the rear axle weight.  If you plan to actually use the truck, the bed load or a camper needs to match up with the vehicle's axle ratings and the weight distribution front and rear.

If you can get the vehicle to a truck scale, remove all excess items, run the truck low on fuel, and get out of the truck during the weight tally.  When you have firm axle weights and the total (curb weight), please share the details with us.  Let us know the Line Set Ticket features for the truck.  Others can benefit from your findings.

Moses

Moses:

Thanks for the reply. Now that I’ve completed the purchase of the truck, I have the LST. It shows a GVWR of 6,300 lb for the truck, with a front GAWR of 3,000 lb and rear GAWR of 3,400 lb. 

The reason behind my question was that I need to rent a trailer to tow the vehicle from Colorado to Illinois. I can rent a 7,000 lb GVWR trailer (trailer weight ~1,500 lb, so GCWR ~5,500 lb) for $250 a week, or a 10,000 lb GVWR trailer (trailer weight ~2,200 lb / GCWR ~7,800 lb) for $450. I don’t want to throw money away, but it sounds like I should be able to get by with the 7,000 lb GVWR trailer.

i agree that the ideal solution is to drive it to a truck scale, but I couldn’t do so without being in Colorado. Do you see any flaws in my thinking?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Stout...Fully understand the price difference...You will likely be approaching the cusp with the 7000-pound GVWR trailer.  Assuming the truck is a "3/4-ton", the load capacity in the bed or overhead on the chassis (a camper) should approach 1,500 pounds.  At a GVWR of 6,300 pounds, the net weight of the truck should be in the neighborhood of 4,800-5,000 pounds with no additional weight like a cap, spare tire, tank(s) of fuel, a tool box, etc.  You would likely squeeze by with the 7,000 pound GVWR trailer. 

Of course, it would be best to run the 1210 over scales before getting the trailer.  That would be decisive.  If you're doing a one-way tow, renting the trailer at Colorado and driving to Illinois with a drop-off of the trailer at Illinois, you could arrange to run the truck over scales before confirming the trailer rental.  In doing so, you could make an informed decision and solve the mystery.

It's a close call.  There's a plus to getting the 10,000 pound GVWR trailer:  better braking, better weight range tires and improved structure.  You might justify getting the 10,000 pound GVWR trailer based on that safety margin.  Tires and brakes are a concern.  At an additional 700 pounds, the 10,000 GVWR trailer is obviously stouter.  In either towing situation, make sure your hitch is up for the total weight package.

Moses

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...