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About Msongy

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  1. Would a sub-standard catalytic converter (cold or hot) cause a signal-based failure to start (ignition switch, not push-start)? I apologize in advance: you may need to review the thread to answer.
  2. Wouldn't a filter swollen from water contamination also prevent a push-start? Recall that even when failing to start normally, a push-start always works and the engine runs normally afterward. Regardless, filters are cheap, so worth a try. Will also fully drain and clean out tank.
  3. Are you stating that the fuel/air ratio and quantity at startup are pre-programmed and not dependent upon initial throttle position? Opening the throttle means more air, so if the ECU holds the fuel quantity constant at startup, regardless of throttle position, then a slightly more open throttle creates a leaner mixture, more easily combustible. Sounds like the ISA continues to move the plunger out in order to increase the engine's ability to fire up. It shouldn't have to work that hard, though. I'm keeping at it. Going to continue cleaning and testing! Thanks!
  4. New info. Just failed to start, but for the first time, I was able to start it with very slight pressure on the gas pedal while cranking. I thought that only worked with 6 cyl., and it's actually 50 to 75% depressed for a hot engine start. I was only pressing about 1/8"! Sounds like the extra air/fuel helped, but throttle might actually not be at best starting position. ISA is definitely resetting after shutdown, but whether or not it's setting the throttle to the best location is the question. Turns out I was right. Read on. If I accidentally turn the key to start only for a fr
  5. Super! Thank you. I hurried outside to resume troubleshooting, and found that my wife drove it to work! Aside from the fact that I can't work on it, she also has no hill to park near in case she needs a rolling start! But I won't ask your advice regarding my wife...
  6. Msongy...Vacuum circuits are always a concern. However, you're sharing that the engine runs great once started, and it starts every time you push-start the vehicle. Of course, you do want the vacuum circuits to be routed correctly without vacuum leaks, as this can affect overall performance. Leaks also include the brake vacuum booster or even the brake booster's check valve. Worth a glance... If you have any suspicions about the vacuum circuits, you have the FSM for diagrams. To save time, there is an earlier post where I added a PDF of the vacuum circuits for a 1987-90 Jeep YJ Wrang
  7. Thanks! I don't know whether to be relieved or concerned that you didn't mention any vacuum lines. Is that because checking for broken, dirty lines is obvious or because the logic doesn't support it? Also, does the occasional success with starter fluid (key start) indicate anything in particular? I must also add that the frequency of success with starter fluid has been slowly declining over time, indicating either increased corrosion, pitting at contacts or buildup of material in lines, filters or orifices. Or all of the above! U agree?
  8. T-shooting an intermittent starting problem. About 80% of start-ups are perfect. When failing to start, it will turn over and over, but won't fire up. Sometimes starter fluid will cause it to fire up and then it runs fine, but that's only 50% effective. The rest of the time, only push-starting will work, but push-starting does work every time. Most obvious assumption is fuel problem, but fuel system checks out fine (replaced almost everything over time anyway). Ignition/electrical is fine. Also, the problem seems to be completely independent of outside and engine temperature. I st
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