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Found 21 results

  1. Many Jeep owners need how-to information on checking valve clearances and adjusting the hydraulic valve lifters on the inline 232, 258 and 4.0L six-cylinder engines and the 2.5L Jeep pushrod engine. Between the model years 1971 and 2006, Jeep used these AMC-design 232, 258 and 4.0L sixes and the 2.5L straight four-cylinder engine (1983.5-2002). The hydraulic lifter and valvetrain design has particular needs, especially the valve clearances. When these engines develop valvetrain noise, owners often think a valve adjustment will cure the problem. In each of these AMC/Jeep engines, valve clearances are set during assembly of the engine, and adjustment is not necessary between engine rebuilds. If your engine has developed valvetrain noise, or if you are in the process of rebuilding the engine and need to know more about setting valve clearances, my HD video from 4WD Mechanix Video Network at Vimeo will assist. This video was originally a Q&A Vlog at the magazine, now available for a broader viewing audience through Vimeo. Moses
  2. Valvetrain noise and rocker arm interference after cylinder head work can be issues on the AMC design engines. Causes can include sluggish oil flow through the hydraulic lifters, the lifters bleeding down, or possibly excess valve/lifter clearance from valvetrain wear. At 200K miles, that's a very real possibility. Another possibility, since you're certain it's not a lower end bearing noise, is a carbon buildup knock (not likely with an MPI engine) or a piston-to-wall clearance issue. Piston skirt wear is likely, too. It works like this: Pistons naturally expand from heat. There is the normal piston-to-wall clearance to accommodate expansion when new. Over time, the cylinder bore wear creates cylinder "taper" toward the top of the cylinder. The piston skirts also wear. Over time, the cylinders and pistons wear. Cold, the engine was noisy, the pistons expanded, and for a while, anyway, the engine quieted down when warm. Now, the lifters are clacking, the cylinders are worn, the pistons have worn, and you get the sound effects! Another noise can be piston pin wear, which causes a double-knock rap...You would notice this clearly as a dominant sound when the engine is unloaded and you tip the throttle in and out. Use of an automotive stethoscope, a copper tube or a piece of PVC tubing can help isolate engine noise. Be aware that these noises will be transmitted widely and very exaggerated while using these sounding probes! At 200K miles, these engines have done a heroic job tugging a Jeep around. 2.5L models with 4.10:1 axle gears, which make the piston travel extreme over this many miles, wear an engine out sooner. An engine with this kind of mileage needs a suitable burial or rebuild it completely, restoring the short block and cylinder head to OEM specifications with pushrod lengths checked (changed if necessary) for proper valve clearance/lifter preload. Some want to swap an inline 4.0L six in place of the AMC 2.5L four, and that's not easy. I'd consider a smaller V-8 swap (GM LS 5.3L makes sense) as a practical alternative. The Jeep YJ and TJ Wrangler frames are, for unfathomable reasons, designed specifically for either an inline four or a six-cylinder inline engine. (You can see photos of the motor mounts I fabricated during a 4.0L swap into a 2.5L YJ Wrangler, and frankly, it would have been just as easy to install a hybrid V-8.) Granted, the 4.0L radiator, shroud and transmission locations were straightforward, although a four-cylinder YJ/TJ model uses an AX5 transmission, which would be replaced by a 4.0L's AX15 transmission. Aside from fabricating motor mounts, there would be wiring, cooling, exhaust, the AX15 transmission, 4.0L PCM setup and other changes. Moses
  3. Many Jeep owners need how-to information on checking valve clearances and adjusting the hydraulic valve lifters on the inline 232, 258 and 4.0L six-cylinder engines and the 2.5L Jeep pushrod engine. Between the model years 1971 and 2006, Jeep used these AMC-design 232, 258 and 4.0L sixes and the 2.5L straight four-cylinder engine (1983.5-2002). The hydraulic lifter and valvetrain design has particular needs, especially the valve clearances. When these engines develop valvetrain noise, owners often think a valve adjustment will cure the problem. In each of these AMC/Jeep engines, valve clearances are set during assembly of the engine, and adjustment is not necessary between engine rebuilds. If your engine has developed valvetrain noise, or if you are in the process of rebuilding the engine and need to know more about setting valve clearances, my HD video from 4WD Mechanix Video Network at Vimeo will assist. This video was originally a Q&A Vlog at the magazine, now available for a broader viewing audience through Vimeo. Moses
  4. Thanks for the detailed and quick reply Moses, very interesting tech. I think you're right it is probably multiple worn parts making clattering together. I am looking forward to tearing down this engine one day and seeing how it looks/checking the wear. This is Mike at MCE Fenders (MCE Mike on Facebook) and this is the lime green Jeep in our photos. (Also emerald green before it was painted) I've owned this Jeep since I was 16 in 2000. You are absolutely right, this is a testimonial for this engine. I am absolutely amazed at how problem free and durable this engine is. Since it doesn't have much power, and had larger than stock tires on it since ~60,000 miles, this engine spent a lot of time at full throttle and/or high RPM. It has had 31s and 4.10s for a few years, 33s and 4.10s for about 6 months, 33s and 4.88s for a few years, and has been on 35s with 4.88s since 2008. I could also go on about all the times it spent revving high in the snow, breathing dust in the Moab and PNW silt, and it has overheated a few times due to a water pump and electric fan issue. I always just kept the oil changed. I am probably not going to do an engine swap for a while - just not enough time right now and focusing on other Jeeps and the company, but am collecting ideas on what to do. I am definitely leaning towards a small V8. I don't want a huge powerhouse, I rather have reliability of the entire Jeep rather than a HP number on paper. So was thinking a Vortec 4.8 or possibly a 5.3. From the research I have done, the Magnum 5.2 and 5.9 are the "easiest" swaps for my TJ electrically, so those are also on the drawing board. One other idea is to try 505 Performance's new 2.5L stroker kit and head. (2.7 and 2.9 options) But I am still researching this. While the sound and power of a V8 is fun, keeping the light 4 banger but adding power might also be fun. In '08 I swapped the AX-5 for an NV3550 with junkyard parts, and bolted on a NV241-J to that. So I am thinking they will be fine with either option. The front axle is a high pinion 30 out of a Cherokee. This would probably be fine for the stroker 4 cyl. option, but probably need replacing for the V8. This Jeep doesn't have a rear axle at the moment, but it will probably get a D44 when I have time to get to this project. Too many options, haha! Mike
  5. Hello All, i need your help. i have a 2.5L that I cannot make run with the MAP sensor plugged in. I have tested the MAP sensor and it reads good. i have tested the MAT, Engine Temp and Idle Air Control Motor as well. Replaced the TPS, O2 sensor and the ECU. i have checked for Vacuum leaks and have come up with nothing. it runs better with the MAP unplugged from vacuum. I am running out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. I'm at my wits end troubleshooting my lil 2.5L engine. I googled and found your page from about a year ago. 1990 jeep wrangle 25l engine timing. Today I thought about timing. It misses, like running on only 2 cylinders when at low speed and and only pulling slightly. As I move into mid and upper rpm range it stops missing. I still do not have much acceleration but at least it stops missing. I've check and/or changed every sensor it has. TPS is only rough since I have not gotten my laser tach to work yet. In checking fuel I have only 10 psi so I know that's a problem. This started about a month after the SMOG guy changed the O2 sensor to pass smog. I've check the voltage when hot and it's within spec. I also had massive exhaust gasket leak so I cleaned the surfaces and replace the gasket. I'm a machine mechanic from way back in the Navy so I'm not just a new mechanic. I just can't quite figure this one out. I'll check timing tomorrow. Lowell
  7. Here is 1987-90 Jeep YJ Wrangler and Jeep XJ Cherokee/MJ Comanche 2.5L TBI diagnostics information in PDF form. The first document includes all sensor and switch tests plus adjustments that affect engine tune, idle and reliability. Wiring schematics and ECU pin locations, test plugs and diagnostics included. Jeep 2.5L TBI Complete Diagnostics-Sensors-Switches.pdf Jeep 2.5L TBI ECU Inputs and Outputs.pdf Jeep 2.5L TBI MAP Sensor Test.pdf Jeep 2.5L Timing Chain and Tensioner.pdf Jeep 2.5L Valve Timing Check.pdf Jeep YJ 2.5L TBI Sensors and Pinout.pdf YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI Wiring of WOT to ECU.pdf Jeep YJ 2.5L ISA Wiring Diagram.pdf 1987-90 2.5L TBI Intake Manifold and Sensors.pdf 1987-90 YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI Emissions System Parts.pdf YJ Wrangler Fuel Filter and Guard.pdf 2.5L TBI ISA Motor Adjustment.pdf Used in conjunction with the many forum exchanges (search under "All Content" and "2.5L TBI" in the search box), plus the Jeep 2.5L TBI troubleshooting article at the magazine website, this information will help solve your Jeep YJ Wrangler or XJ Cherokee 2.5L TBI troubles. In references, the Model 81 is the Jeep YJ Wrangler. The Model 60/70 is the XJ Cherokee and MJ Comanche Pickup. Moses
  8. Here is 1987-90 Jeep YJ Wrangler and Jeep XJ Cherokee/MJ Comanche 2.5L TBI diagnostics information in PDF form. The first document includes all sensor and switch tests plus adjustments that affect engine tune, idle and reliability. Wiring schematics and ECU pin locations, test plugs and diagnostics included. Jeep 2.5L TBI Complete Diagnostics-Sensors-Switches.pdf Jeep 2.5L TBI ECU Inputs and Outputs.pdf Jeep 2.5L TBI MAP Sensor Test.pdf Jeep 2.5L Timing Chain and Tensioner.pdf Jeep 2.5L Valve Timing Check.pdf Jeep YJ 2.5L TBI Sensors and Pinout.pdf YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI Wiring of WOT to ECU.pdf Jeep YJ 2.5L ISA Wiring Diagram.pdf 1987-90 2.5L TBI Intake Manifold and Sensors.pdf 1987-90 YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI Emissions System Parts.pdf YJ Wrangler Fuel Filter and Guard.pdf 2.5L TBI ISA Motor Adjustment.pdf Used in conjunction with the many forum exchanges (search under "All Content" and "2.5L TBI" in the search box), plus the Jeep 2.5L TBI troubleshooting article at the magazine website, this information will help solve your Jeep YJ Wrangler or XJ Cherokee 2.5L TBI troubles. In references, the Model 81 is the Jeep YJ Wrangler. The Model 60/70 is the XJ Cherokee and MJ Comanche Pickup. Moses
  9. T-shooting an intermittent starting problem. About 80% of start-ups are perfect. When failing to start, it will turn over and over, but won't fire up. Sometimes starter fluid will cause it to fire up and then it runs fine, but that's only 50% effective. The rest of the time, only push-starting will work, but push-starting does work every time. Most obvious assumption is fuel problem, but fuel system checks out fine (replaced almost everything over time anyway). Ignition/electrical is fine. Also, the problem seems to be completely independent of outside and engine temperature. I started reading about ECU inputs, and discovered that during startup, an engaged WOT switch causes ECU to cut off fuel because ECU thinks it will flood the engine. The WOT switch is worn, but shouldn't prevent starting if disconnected. Would any other ECU inputs prevent fuel flow during start-up if their signals are outside normal limits? Service manual says during "Ignition On", CTS, MAT and MAP sensors begin providing input to ECU, but doesn't list MAT or MAP sensors during actual start-up. See attached page. So which sensors matter to ECU for start-up fuel supply calculations or decisions? Also, during push-starts, the ignition (key switch) is in the Run position, and not the Start position, which changes the ECU inputs, too. My shop has a DRB II diagnostics reader, but unless they hook it up when it happens to be misbehaving, shouldn't everything check out ok? Unfortunately, I've never been able to get it to fail at the shop. I also tried replacing the fuel relay. I also noticed that it is no longer cycling the ISA motor when it fails to start. It used to, but I can't figure out why it did that anyway. What are my next moves? Might be trying to oversimplify this, but what kind of intermittent problem would occasionally prevent a normal startup, but NEVER prevent a push-start from succeeding?
  10. Hello im new to this i am from hawaii i have a 1989 jeep wrangler and have a brand new motor installed it had an idle problem so i changed the tps set it in between 4.6 and 4.7 on the multimeter which is what the dealer said to set it as and it runs for ten minutes and as soon as i tal the gad it sputter then dies any ideas ?
  11. Hello I have a 1990 Jeep Wrangler 2.5l and I'm having a problem keeping it going it will start and I have to keep my foot in it to keep it going once I let off it will die does not idle then it will not start again what's my problem thanks?
  12. My Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L (MPI not TBI) engine has no fuel pressure when it cold. Installed a new fuel pump and pressure regulator, swapped relays. When the Jeep is parked inside it runs and has fuel pressure. When we put the gauge on to check fuel pressure at the rail, inside we get around 39 psi. When we let the Jeep sit outside overnight and check pressure we have none. Any ideas? Thanks.
  13. Thanks for the engine information. Ok .... update for today. I'm really not finding a vacuum leak and before I build a smoke machine there's been this gnawing in the back of my mind to check the valve timing. I found this pdf manual http://oljeep.com/JeepEngines.pdf and on page 63 it tell how to check valve timing. So I removed all the plug, it was easier to rotate by removing all the rocker bridges, set up a dial indicator on the #1 intake push rod and checked .... Hmmm the dial moved .010 but I don't see the index mark anywhere (????) ... oh, there it is 3 inches to the left, or 3 inches BTDC ... really???? Guess I'll pull the timing cover and check it out.
  14. Hello everyone, I have the best luck finding useful tips and information for things that are over my head. I have noticed a huge difference in what the tachometer reads verses what the scanner says. I looked all every where for a proceedure on how to test go about on figuring out why the readings are so different. Could my ecu have a problem?
  15. Hello, first off let me begin by saying thank you to Moses for your site. It has helped me fix a lot of issues with my jeep. I have a 1988 jeep yj with the renix 2.5 tbi setup. The problem is that the jeep starts and runs but consistently spit, sputters and stalls. I can be driving down the road doing 55 mph and then it is like somebody turns the key off and back on again. it does this at idle as well. Things I have already done/replaced: new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, ign. Module, ign. Switch, and the cps. I have gone through and tested the coolant temp sensor (for the ecu), intake temp sensor, map sensor. Also pulled the wiring harness from the engine compartment and went through each individual wire with my multimeter to ensure that they were good. I did this under the dash as well and cleaned all grounds. The throttle body i rebuilt about 6k miles ago. New fuel filter and pump. I am at a loss at this point and i hope for some guidance. The only thing i can think of is the ecm is going out but not positive. Thank you for your help, and i look forward to your reply Thomas
  16. In the second pic I know the line at arrow #1 goes to the air cleaner. Can anyone tell me where #2 and #3 should go? first pic is just a close up of the connections in question. Thanks
  17. Need help. I recently replaced a cracked exhaust manifold and have a leak at the connection from the manifold to the converter. I looked in the jeep manual and found that there is a seal ring for this connection. I bought the seal ring but it doesn't fit. The manifold has a donut shape to it already and the convert has the inverted donut shape. The old manifold when removed did not have a seal ring on it. Has anyone ran into this while working on their Jeep? The Jeep is a 99 Wrangler with the 2.5 liter engine. Any recommendations on how to fix the leak?
  18. 1990 jeep wrangler with the 2.5l 4cyl engine. it was rebuilt about 10 years ago its got 100,000 ish on the engine. About 4 years ago it started making this noise. Some people thought it was a diesel engine. oil pressure test confirms somethings up. The needle was some what jumpy. It only does it when the engine is warmed up. I suspect its a lifter issue or a spark knock. Any ideas?
  19. Hello all, '94 Wrangler with 2.5L, about 170K+ miles ... initially running rough under load followed by loud top end noise. Found #2 intake lifter had been beaten quite a bit by the cam lobe (which was also now quite worn). No other wear found in valve train (push rod not bent) and valve not stuck. Replaced cam and lifters but less than a 100 miles later same lifter is in same condition (contact face noticeably worn from cam lobe and engine running rough under load). I should also note assembly lube was applied to the bearing surfaces, lobes and lifter faces. Ran it in at 1500 rpm for 20 minutes. Oil pressure is good and good oil flow through lifters and push rods. The only thing I can theorize is the lifter "bearing" (hole in block where lifter sits) is oversize and lifter is "chattering" in the bearing, causing it to stick and get beat up by the cam lobe. Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks, Chris
  20. Ok, here is my situation. i am new to the the jeep owners world. I have wanted a cj since I was 13 yrs old and I finally got one about 2 months ago. I bought an 85 cj7, it has a 2.5 l 4 cyl with a t4 transmission. I bought it with the expectation of putting in a different motor and trans, however, what I did not count on was how much body work I would end up having to do. The body work has taken a huge chunk out of my budget for the motor. A buddy of mine gave me a 4.0 out of his 88 comanche. the engine ran but had been sitting for 7 yrs and all of the seals leaked, including the main seal. My original plan was to use this motor and carburate it since I don't have all of the parts for the fuel injection and I want to keep it as simple under the hood as possible. My question is, would this be possible and could i use the existing motor mounts. Also, what else would I have to do to make this work? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  21. Good info, thanks. Here's an odd one I have been trying to figure out for years. I bought the Jeep at 57,000 miles ('97 TJ w/ a 2.5L), and now it has about 200,000. So I am assuming now it's worn out and am just going to swap it out. But, this is what it has done for years: First cold start of the day, it is quiet. After about 30 seconds or a minute of warming up, I can hear a valve clatter/tapping noise starting. It did this until the engine was up to temp, then would go away as long as the engine stayed running. If it sat for a while and cooled off, it would do it again until warmed up. This never impacted the engine's performance or drive ability, so I never really worried about it. But, in the last year of driving it, the noise would appear at about 30 seconds or 1 minute of run time, but would stay once the engine warmed up. It would be quieter once warm, but definitely audible. It almost sounds like a diesel. This Jeep has sat now for about a year and a half, but I am going to revive it this winter, as well as do another build on it. Also plan to swap the engine for something else, but will always be curious as to what was making this noise. When I have a chance, I am going to tear the engine down and see if that shows anything. It definitely doesn't sound like a rod knock, and is coming from the upper part of the engine. So I am assuming it is something in the valvetrain.
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