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Hello to All.... I wish to thank all the members and especially you Mr. Ludell for all the time spent on our endless problems.... I have reviewed all the posts that might pertain to my problem and do not wish to ask a question that can be easily answered by simple review... My YJ has had an.. "on again / off again" problem that may not be related to this exact problem but it just seems to have never been 100 % or maybe even 80%... The current problem started on an outing in the woods ..drove fine climbing, downhill and 4wd.. coming back the engine began to act like it was starving for fuel..the harder you press on the gas the more it chocked out...would idle fine..no power.. So... I took it to mean a faulty pump and ordered same...pulled tank ..found sock off the pump..Problem solved ??..decided since I have a new one might as well drop it in.. "nice to have a trail spare anyway".. replaced tank with new filter... went to fire it up ...no start..no apparent fuel at the TBI....Now it wont run at all... So... check electrical to pump ..fine..check lines..fine.. Ordered a Pressure gauge...slap it on the TBI access port ..No pressure.....Check pressure before the TBI... jumps to 50 psi...way to much..?? checked inline with " T " Key on 25 psi.. Start..jumps to 50 psi..no apparent fuel returning to tank.. SO.... rebuild the TBI... bad regulator..Maybe...clean, replace TPS , new injector, and filters while its apart... " Nice to have trail spares anyway" reassemble...try to start ...no fuel.... So....Back to ZERO.... No fuel getting past the Regulator... Remove TBI..reinspect , reassemble..try to start...no fuel Also the CPS..MAT sensors replaced during the last session...Of unknown problems..."Nice to have trail spares anyway" When fuel is manually poured in the carb. she fires right up and I can keep it running if i drizzle it in.. So... it runs if i can figure out how to get my wife under the hood with a squeeze bottle while I drive....Could work...Maybe.. Make a great hood ornament...Should switch that around encase she reads this..She Drives....ya sounds better... The questions are.....will the pressure spike to 50 psi if there is no return to tank..? Is 50 psi just way to much ..? Will to much pressure cause the regulator to shut down so to speak..? Is it possible the spring in the regulator is bad ,The kit did not have a new spring...Seems a weak spring would allow to much fuel...did try to adjust with set screw...no Fuel...? The TBI is clean no blockage in ports...so what could be stopping the flow... Other than the regulator... ? "Did I just answer my own question..Maybe" Why are my troubles worse now after the repairs..At least it ran at idle before? Your Attention , Patience and experience with this matter will earn you my admiration and a box of Girl Scout cookies...of your choice Jamie -
T-shooting an intermittent starting problem. About 80% of start-ups are perfect. When failing to start, it will turn over and over, but won't fire up. Sometimes starter fluid will cause it to fire up and then it runs fine, but that's only 50% effective. The rest of the time, only push-starting will work, but push-starting does work every time. Most obvious assumption is fuel problem, but fuel system checks out fine (replaced almost everything over time anyway). Ignition/electrical is fine. Also, the problem seems to be completely independent of outside and engine temperature. I started reading about ECU inputs, and discovered that during startup, an engaged WOT switch causes ECU to cut off fuel because ECU thinks it will flood the engine. The WOT switch is worn, but shouldn't prevent starting if disconnected. Would any other ECU inputs prevent fuel flow during start-up if their signals are outside normal limits? Service manual says during "Ignition On", CTS, MAT and MAP sensors begin providing input to ECU, but doesn't list MAT or MAP sensors during actual start-up. See attached page. So which sensors matter to ECU for start-up fuel supply calculations or decisions? Also, during push-starts, the ignition (key switch) is in the Run position, and not the Start position, which changes the ECU inputs, too. My shop has a DRB II diagnostics reader, but unless they hook it up when it happens to be misbehaving, shouldn't everything check out ok? Unfortunately, I've never been able to get it to fail at the shop. I also tried replacing the fuel relay. I also noticed that it is no longer cycling the ISA motor when it fails to start. It used to, but I can't figure out why it did that anyway. What are my next moves? Might be trying to oversimplify this, but what kind of intermittent problem would occasionally prevent a normal startup, but NEVER prevent a push-start from succeeding? -
Jeep 4x4s traveling along a trail can literally cook a meal on their intake manifolds! I know, Kevin Carey and I had hot dogs grilled in aluminum foil between the intake manifold and heads on his JK Wrangler. Between Loon Lake and our lunch break on the Rubicon Trail, they were fully cooked! I seldom promote products at the forums. Here is an exception: DEI has just released new injector covers that would be very helpful for vehicles subject to crawl pace trail running and rock crawling conditions. Here is the press release and photo...This is not a paid advertisement: DEI Introduces Heat Reflective Fuel Injector and Sensor Covers Prevents Vapor Lock and Heat SoakAvon Lake, Ohio (February 8, 2016)… Excessive heat can cause performance and factory fuel injectors and sensors to be at risk of vapor lock or heat soak which can cause rough idling, slow starting or other potential serious engine problems. Also, cooler injectors perform more efficiently with a more consistent throttle response. DEI has now introduced heat reflective Fuel Injector and Sensor Covers that are available in packs of two, four, six or eight, that efficiently reflects direct and radiant heat away from injectors and sensors. Constructed of high-temperature rated glass fiber material bonded to a heat reflective aluminized material, DEI’s Fuel Injector and Sensor Covers work well on most any engine configuration with stock or aftermarket injectors and sensors. The heat reflective covers are made with a split design allowing each to wrap around the individual injector/sensor and then secured with a sewn-in hook and loop fastening edge. There is no need to remove the injector. · Part# 010380 – 2 pack · Part# 010381 – 4 pack · Part# 010382 – 6 pack · Part# 010383 – 8 pack For more information about DEI’s Made in the USA Fuel Injector and Sensor Covers or other thermal protective products, visit www.DesignEngineering.com, call DEI at 800-264-9472 or e-mail: Sales@DesignEngineering.com. This could help on EFI/MPI Jeep engines and other trail runners that roast their fuel injectors while crawling off-pavement. 2.5L, 4.0L, 3.8L and 3.6L Jeep owners take notice! Moses -
I have a cj7 that I am going install an AMC 360 with Howell injection, mild cam, and a little head work. My question is how well will the Borg warner t5 held up? Bad idea? Or is swapping to a np435 or nv4500 mandatory? -
Well, progress has been slow due to work and family, but I spent a solid 6 hours on the CJ-7 project last night. I bought a new clutch linkage kit, as my lower and upper clutch rods were worn half way through, and the bellcrank was a mess. The new kit has an adjustable lower linkage rod with a ball joint instead of the old bent solid rod. And.....cue swearing. The 4.0 swap exhaust routing must be slightly different from stock (it's some kind of welded header instead of a cast iron manifold) because the ball and socket joint whacks the exhaust down tube solidly when the clutch pedal comes back to rest. After adjusting things for about an hour and trying the lower rod backwards, I conceded that it wasn't going to work and ordered a set of heim joint linkage rods to go with my nice new bellcrank and bushings. I have to say, the stock setup is a pretty questionable system. I guess maybe it gets points for simplicity, but for stoutness it is lacking. I know lots of folks have difficulty with the release lever jumping off the clutch fork, I wonder if there is a way to modify that to accept a ball and socket end for a positive mount instead of the old spring tension junk... -
Member Spdljohn began a brake and chassis frame-off restoration topic that has now expanded into discussion of the use of a shackle reversal kit on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ-5, CJ-7 or Scrambler/CJ-8. Below is the topic thread that member Spdljohn began...Join us and share your experience with the shackle reversal kit! Moses
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By 1972, AMC/Jeep Corporation was in full swing, producing the new generation Jeep 4x4s! This era represents the legendary CJ models that grew the brand to new heights and set benchmarks for engineering, design and sales. Join others who own and appreciate this unique group of vehicles, the 1972-86 CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-7, Scrambler/CJ-8 and third generation AMC/Jeep Jeepster/Commando models!—Moses Ludel Moses Ludel's second Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual, covering 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® models. These years brought the Jeep CJ to the forefront, and consumers flocked to outdoor lifestyles and the popular sport of four-wheeling! An AMC/Jeep CJ does well both on- and off-highway, often with plenty of power, driving ease and comfort to spare!
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The axle shaft tapers have "teeth" that cut into the smooth surface of a new rear wheel hub casting. There is a minimum beginning axle shaft nut torque on Jeep CJs of 250 ft-lbs. For a new hub, this is followed by tightening the axle shaft nut further until you achieve the factory-specified stick-out length of the axle shaft threads (beyond the outer edge of the wheel hub). Note: I've attached the factory procedure in a PDF for those interested in the Model 20 AMC Jeep CJ axle shaft hub installation: AMC Model 20 Axle Hub Installation.pdf See your factory service manual, it will describe this procedure for the Model 15. For the Jeep CJs, I also go into this installation in-depth within my 1972-86 Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual (Bentley Publishers). Note the way you take this thread stick-out measurement... The amount of torque required on the hub nut can include the use of a 3/4" square drive impact socket and a long handle added to a 3/4" drive breaker bar. I have used the handle from a hydraulic floor jack (very carefully!) to gain enough leverage with some installations. Other installs require far less force than this. It's always about the correct thread stick-out measurement after tightening the nut. Those attempting to achieve the correct thread stick-out length with an impact gun, even a very strong one, may be surprised to find that the impact force is not sufficient to get the hub properly drawn onto the serrated axle shaft taper. All of this said, the AMC factory recommendation is a new hub casting if/when the hub shows any kind of damage. If you notice, brake work does not require hub removal, and the hub should, ideally, not be removed unless the axle shaft outer bearing requires replacement. Many do get away with hub reuse if there is no damage to the hub taper or axle shaft "teeth". If the hub has spun on the axle shaft, there is damage—the hub must be replaced. The hub and axle shaft positioning should be marked before the hub is removed. If you cannot or do not want to install a new hub, and the old hub appears okay, align the hub at its original position on the axle shaft. Tighten the axle shaft nut to the initial torque. I take this a step further and use the thread stick-out method to assure a safe installation. Once you have installed a hub to an AMC axle shaft in this manner, you will understand why Jeep owners who do not practice this method wind up with the hub spinning on the axle shaft's tapered end or, in the worst case scenario, the wheel hub and wheel/tire assembly can come loose! There are aftermarket "one-piece" replacement axle shafts available for the Jeep CJ 5x5.5" bolt circle hubs. These one-piece shafts have a more conventional outer flange for the wheel studs and mounting the brake drum and wheel/tire assembly. There are several suppliers for these Jeep CJ axle shafts. However, like you share, your Eagle wheel bolt circle is smaller than a CJ Jeep pattern, and the axle shaft lengths are likely different between the CJ and your Eagle. (Inner axle shaft splines may differ, too.) As a footnote, the key and keyway on the AMC axle shaft are not intended for withstanding the driving torque at the axle shaft. This key is mainly to facilitate the installation of the axle shaft nut in the manner I've just described. (It may provide a very marginal safety factor, but looking at it, you can see that the size of this key cannot withstand axle torque or loads.) With a new hub, you are actually "cutting" teeth/splines into the smooth hub casting taper as you tighten the axle nut securely. By securely, the only safe and trusted method is thread stick-out length. Any attempt to use a torque figure (other than the starting torque of 250 ft-lbs for the CJ Jeep Model 20 axle shaft nuts) is futile. Actual torque setting can vary from not much past the 250 ft-lbs minimum to the long handle leverage I mention. Related information: Anyone remember the vintage Volkswagen air-cooled era rear axle shaft nuts and the use of a long leverage bar for tightening? AMC is not alone here. And there are the tapered axle shafts on vintage Jeep, Ford, Studebaker, I-H and Chrysler cars and trucks that require a hub puller to remove the wheel hub and brake drum. If you need that kind of puller for an AMC axle, get pointers from my OTC Hub Tool video, click here. When Jeep owners do not follow this hub tightening procedure on the Model 20 axle in a CJ, and especially if they run oversized tires, the hub will spin lose. This can cause severe parts damage or even the loss of the hub/wheel assembly. Check your shop manual for the AMC AWD Eagle. I'm curious what the thread stick-out measurement is for the Model 15... Moses
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Hey I enjoyed the compressor story! Today I was able to start disassembling the transfer case I followed your procedure and took some photos. The impact driver worked great on the yoke nuts and to be honest most of what I disassembled today was very easily done. I have to admit once I learned the new to me transfer case nomenclature it went very well, I'm having fun. I noticed that the intermediate shaft had some wear, I could feel where the gears rode on the shaft. The gear teeth that I can see so far aren't showing any sign of wear I hope some of the photos will show. In the first photo the bushing on the left looks rough on the outside. -
Hello out there! I found this forum recently and decided that I would like to do some work on a 1984 CJ 7. I will need tons of help. To begin with I have a hard time shifting from 2H to 4H to 4L and all in between. Most likely due to the fact that the Jeep is 30 years old, and likely no one has looked at the oil level in the transfer case! I have posted a couple of pictures to ask for help in identifying the transfer case on my CJ. I think it is a Dana 300? To be specific I would like to know if I could read or watch some recommended videos on the removal and proper way to rebuild this transfer case. What tools would be required to complete the rebuild properly, and what should I look for when opening up the transfer case. I want to do it right but don't want to exceed my skills. I would be willing to take and post photos along the way.
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I have an 82 cj with a dana 30 low pinion with 2:73 gears. I want to put 4:10 gears in it. Can I use a carrier and ring and pinion from a TJ wrangler or 2000-2001 XJ Cherokee mentioned in the dana 30 rebuild how to. I'm sure my pinion is long. I'm not sure if they are in the models mentioned above. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike -
Carter BBD Carburetor Issues
SramblingMan posted a topic in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models
Let me start off by saying I am a complete novice when it comes to mechanics. I figured the best way to learn is to jump in and start trying myself. My Jeep was running great the last time it was driven, but it has sat for about a year and now will not start. Not getting fuel, I read online about a quick fix for idle problems by clearing the venturi tubes. While following the directions, I took off the air horn to get to the venturi cluster. I was holding the air horn in one hand and looking at another part in the other hand, an O-ring gasket (approximately 1/4 inch) popped off the air horn and landed on my wrist. I have no idea where it popped off of and have not been able to find it on exploded view diagrams on the rebuild kit. The ring is in the kit but I cannot find it in the diagram. Any idea where this ring goes? What do you think the odds of a beginner being able to clean and rebuild this carburetor correctly? Thanks for any help... -
Disc brake conversions are popular, and I cover that topic in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals (1946-71 and 1972-86 Editions, Bentley Publishers). Whether the CJ has a four-drum system or a disc front/drum rear system, the master cylinder must be considered during a disc brake conversion. There are two master cylinder concerns when converting to disc brakes: 1) the piston bore size and fluid volume per stroke of the pedal and 2) any "residual valves" that might have been used for the drum brakes. For disc brakes to work, the master cylinder must have enough fluid displacement to apply the calipers and pads. Disc calipers use more brake fluid per pedal stroke than properly adjusted drum brakes. If the Jeep is a vintage CJ 4x4 with a single master cylinder and drum brakes, especially the 9-inch diameter drum system, the stock master cylinder will be inadequate for modern disc brake calipers. Drum or disc brakes, I'd want to get rid of the single master cylinder for safety sake, regardless! In converting to disc brakes, the best choice here should be a modern four-wheel disc brake type dual master cylinder retrofit. A retrofit can even be done using the original, through-the-floor brake pedal, as I illustrate in the 1946-71 Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual (Bentley Publishers). I fabricated a safe, sturdy mount for a later dual master cylinder—mounted beneath the floorboard like the stock master cylinder and actuated by the stock brake pedal. Sometimes, a disc/drum master cylinder will have adequate fluid displacement on the rear drum circuit to operate retrofit disc rear brakes. Again, this depends on the master cylinder's bore size and stroke per pedal application. The rear fluid reservoir is often smaller, so keep fluid at the recommended full level. On 1972-up Jeep CJs with four-wheel drum or disc front/drum rear brakes, you may be able to use the stock master cylinder with a disc brake conversion. Be aware, though, that some master cylinders will require removal of the residual valve(s) from the master cylinder ports. The "residual valve" is important on many drum brake systems. To keep the wheel cylinder cup lips expanded, which prevents fluid seepage from the wheel cylinder with the brakes released, a valve is built into the hydraulic system to hold "residual pressure" in the wheel cylinders when the brakes are released. Early single master cylinders and many four-wheel drum or disc/drum dual master cylinders have built-in "check" or "residual" valves. This residual pressure is below the tension of the brake shoe return springs. Residual pressure is simply to keep the wheel cylinders from drawing air or leaking fluid when the brakes are released. This pressure is typically around 12 PSI, well below brake shoe return spring tension. By design, disc brake calipers do not require residual pressure. The pads release pressure with the pedal release. There is adequate fluid available in the circuit to apply the brakes without lag or hesitation. Some disc brake hydraulic systems, do have very slight residual pressure to keep the pads close to the rotors at all times and improve brake response time during pedal application. This pressure would be around 2 PSI and not enough to cause premature pad wear, fade or overheated rotors. Note: If you're using a four-wheel drum or disc/drum CJ master cylinder, check the fluid line ports for a residual valve. Typically, this valve is simply a rubber plunger and balance spring at the back side of the tubing flare nut seat. With the brake lines removed from the master cylinder, you can see the rubber plunger through the passageway at the center of the tubing flare nut seat. This seat is removable for service and seat replacement. If you are curious how to safely remove the seat, I'd be happy to detail—ask here at the forum! Caution: When retrofitting from drum to disc brakes, you need to remove the drum brake residual valve(s). Earlier Jeep dual master cylinders for four-wheel drum brakes have residual valves at both the front and rear fluid line ports. OEM disc/drum brake systems can have a residual valve on the rear brake circuit. If the residual valve for drum brakes is left in place, the disc brake pads will drag on the rotors with the brake pedal released. This can cause excessive pad wear, brake fade and even wheel lockup. One disc brake conversion example is our fellow forum member "LastCJ7". He has a 1986 CJ-7 Jeep (disc front/drum rear factory brakes) and is converting to rear disc brakes. He's trying the CJ-7 dual master cylinder before considering a late Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon (four-wheel disc from the factory) master cylinder...LastCJ7 needs to make sure there is no residual valve holding pressure in the rear brake system with the brake pedal released. On later disc/drum master cylinders, there may not be a residual valve in the rear brake circuit. Many manufacturers have changed over to stiffer wheel cylinder cup expander springs with sturdier cup expanders. This measure keeps the rubber cups expanded with the brakes released and serves the same purpose as older residual valve systems. When converting to disc brakes, explore whether your original dual master cylinder uses a residual valve or valves. Vintage, single master cylinders have a check valve within the master cylinder to hold residual pressure in the system—one more reason why a single master cylinder is not a candidate for a disc brake conversion! Make sure the master cylinder's fluid displacement (per pedal stroke) will meet disc brake caliper requirements. If in doubt, retrofit a combination valve and master cylinder from a similar chassis—like retrofitting a Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon master cylinder and combination valve to a CJ-7 chassis. Summing up, make sure the brake hydraulic system is compatible with the disc brake calipers and rotors. Both the CJ-7 and TJ Rubicon are on a 94" wheelbase, each has beam axles and an inline six-cylinder engine, their curb weight is a close match, so they should have similar braking needs and characteristics...Jeep TJ Wrangler Rubicon brake components would be a good template for the CJ-7 wheelbase and four-wheel disc brakes. Moses
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If you're struggling with how to remove the rear wheel hubs from a Model 20 AMC rear axle shaft, check out my HD video how-to on the use of an OTC hub puller: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Tool-How-to-Using-the-OTC-7394-Hub-Puller.html. There's only one way to preserve these parts and get the rear hub loose...Make sure you mark the position of the hub and axle before removing the hub! "In the day", these hubs were supposed to be tossed out if removed. The knife "splines" are cut into a blank hub with extreme installation torque. Tightening the nut requires huge force to achieve the correct "stick-out length" of the axle shaft from beyond the hub end after tightening. When folks complain about these hubs "coming loose" on the axle shaft, it's often from repositioning the hub to the axle shaft or from not tightening the nut to create the correct stick-out length of the axle shaft from the hub. I have tightened these nuts with a floor jack handle on a 3/4" square impact socket to get this correct stick-out length—I write about this in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers)...The book is available from Bentley, 4WD Hardware, Advance Adapters, Quadratec, Amazon and elsewhere. If you have the AMC/Jeep factory service manual for your model, details on the rear axle shaft and hub are also discussed. Moses
