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Everything posted by Speed

  1. Okay,as described elsewhere,I changed the main jets and metering tubes,the truck ran relatively good,but very rich. I swapped the power valve from the stock carb thinking it was the problem and it went FAR worse. I decided it HAD to be the power valve was blown out so I bought a new one. from the time I left to get the part and the time I got home,it went from 45# oil pressure to 0 as I parked it here. I checked the oil,which WAS full right after the oil change,about 75 miles ago,and it was empty. I added three quarts I got for the Toyota,and it shows around 25#. I suspect there's a lot of gas in what's left of the oil. (Would severely flooding the engine with gas cause the oil to leave the pan via the combustion chambers or breathers? That would sure explain a lot-the loss of 3 or 4 quarts of oil,and 3/4 tank of gas in 75 miles,and all the blue smoke. At next possible opportunity I'll do another oil change.) Anyway,yesterday,I got the power valve changed out,also checked for problems with the float and needle-n-seat but they were fine. Wanted to test run it last night but the battery was too weak,so I put the charger on it and checked it about an hour ago. It fired right up,needed about 1/4 choke and ran GREAT. (I still think it has a burnt valve,but I can add that to my future expenditures list.) I'm not going to drive it though,until I get the oil and filter changed. It runs like it's still a little rich,but I'll have to run a tank of gas through it,read the plugs a couple of times,check the mileage before I'm sure. I guess this'll be where the "fun" starts-trying to fine-tune for economy. Speed
  2. Sounds good. Did Triumph ever get back to their roots? Back in the early 90's I tried a new Triumph out and really wasn't impressed.It was a nice enough bike,I chose the most "traditional" looking one,but on the road it felt and sounded exactly like all the Japanese bikes in its size. It was relatively fast and smooth,but I couldn't even HEAR it at speeds over 60. It even LOOKED like a Japanese bike with Brit badges. I know-I was expecting "Traditional" and got "Modern". But if I wanted modern,I could have bought any of 4 other versions of it for close to half the price. I DID notice recently that it appears they've gone back to the vertical twin design,at least on SOME models. That's good. In MY opinion. Speed
  3. " It's enough to juggle BroncWorth's carburetor issues!" That's true. The S&S is the Holley carb of the Harley world. They're VERY tuneable and can be made to work well with almost any V-twin engine. One of the benefits of the S&S is the adjustable main jet. Altitude can be easily adjusted for-IIRC it's something like a quarter turn per 1,000 feet. One of the downfalls of the S&S is ALSO the adjustable main jet-I've seen riders lean the carb out going down the road,trying to get good enough mileage to make the next town and melt the engine down. The old timers with those carbs,though,routinely tune as they ride to get the best possible mileage while keeping the engine happy.(especially the knucks and flatties which had a spark advance/retard adjustment in the left grip,mainly for easier starting,but I know a lot of guys would use it to dial up just a couple degrees of advance to get past that truck quicker,then back it off again to go easier on the motor.) I got a new power valve for the BroncWorth carb,pulled the carb off,fixed a leak through the carb into the air filter,checked the float,all appears fine,replaced the power valve,the battery was too low to start. It's on the charger,I'll shoot for Thursday around Noon for the test flight. (I'm SO nervous!) If THIS doesn't do the job,I don't know what to do next. I can order a very basic carb for an early Ford 289 or 260 for around $165.00,recon,but it might end up being a Holley. I don't know when they switched from Holley to Motorcraft on the little V-8's. Maybe by starting with a new carb,and changing the jets,metering tubes and power valve,I can get it to work right. IF this doesn't work. Speed
  4. Not really my thing,but....I always wanted to ride the route of the original highways across the US,including the bits and pieces of abandoned roadway (split the fence,ride through,fix the fence,on we go,same process to get out at the other end.),on a Rickman Triumph 650. (Borrowed one from a friend once,fell in love with the bike immediately. Feels as light as a typical 250 Street/Trail,will run 75 all day long,handles loose/rough ground I can barely even walk on,low gear gave me about 2.5 mph at idle,averaged around 45 mpg-what more could I ask?) I'm a little too old and crippled up for that sorta thing these days,at least for any distance. I imagine there's a LOT of forgotten America to be seen on stretches out of sight of I-80. Speed
  5. That's the problem-I'm trying to get the BroncWorth sorted before I have to work on it in the snow. I'm being told it has to be either the float's stuck or the power valve is bad. I'm also being told the power valve can be ruined by this Ethanol gas if it's soaked in it and not used for a long time. NAPA can get me a power valve for ten bucks,so that's next on the BroncWorth,and I'll look VERY closely at the float and needle-n-seat. On the bike though,not sure when I'll work on it. THIS makes me miss my house in Kittridge Canyon;The back door was wide enough to ride my bike into the living room to work on it,and there were no steps to negotiate! THIS house-not so lucky. What do you think of converting to an S&S Super E carb? I'm concerned it'll kill any semblance of gas mileage,but Dutch says he ran one on his 74 inch Shovel and got around 50 mpg on the highway. They cost a pretty good hunka change new,but I have a Bro here that has a used one he'll hook me up with for cheap and a favor down the road. I never liked S&S carbs because they had no accelerator pump and no choke,but the E has an accelerator pump,and I KNOW I've seen a choke assembly that fits between the air filter and the carb,but I can't find anyone that sells one.(Maybe it was a one-off? If that's the case,it'd be worth building one,or a few...) Speed Speed
  6. I'll go smack the float bowl with a big screwdriver handle in the morning. Haven't put much effort into the bike;mostly trying to get "The Bermuda Triangle" (BroncWorth) to run right. Might be easier to make the Harley run though. (Would be harder to use in the coming mini-ice age though.) Speed
  7. I decided if I was making the "new" carb similar to the stock carb,the main jets and metering rods/tubes would do it;in trying to get rid of its dislike for running under load,I thought maybe I should change the power valve to the one from the stock carb. I did that,and it runs HORRENDOUS. I drove it around for 10 minutes trying to get it to "clear its throat and scream",but it just never did. It was worse than with the power valve from the 302 carb.I know the power valve from the stock carb was good when I pulled the carb,dumped the gas out and put it on a shelf in the shop. I swapped it into the new carb,and you know the rest. I didn't mess with anything else. It ran like the choke was mostly closed but it was completely open. I don't know how the power valve could be damaged in storage,but since I didn't change anything else when I installed it,what else could it be? I think I can order a new one at NAPA for around $8.00 (goodbye groceries),but I'll see if there's anything else that could be the problem before I do that. BTW-when I test drove it,I noticed the volt meter was showing 14.?? volts,so it LOOKS like the alternator's alternating again. (WTF??) I think I'm gonna re-name this truck "The Bermuda Triangle". Speed
  8. Got the main jets and metering rods/tubes changed;the tubes were different so the original carb top wouldn't fit,so I used the one off the original carb. Problem with that is that the two screws at the end of the float bowl fit,but the next two holes in the lid go into the corners of the float bowl,and the last two holes that straddle the air cleaner stud tower,go into thin air. I figured,"No problem,I'll just screw the air cleaner stud in,run a nut and washer down on it and that'll hold that end of the carb top down. Close,but no cigar. Unlike the older carb body,the newer body isn't threaded for the air cleaner stud,the TOP is. So I had to drill that hole out in the carb top,find a bigger diameter stud to fit the threads in the old carb body,and find nuts and a washer that fit. Finally got it together,and it runs pretty good,except under load,like going up a hill,where it goes to crap. A riding buddy asked me if I checked the power valve,and I said,"It's a Motorcraft carb,not a Holley." I didn't know the Motorcraft ALSO has a power valve.THAT could very well be the reason it's running so bad under load. I took the power valve off the old carb,and plan to put it in tomorrow. With ANY degree of luck,that'll make it run like it should. It appears the master cylinder's the culprit that's making the Toyota brakes screw up;at $18.00 I can replace it next time something sells,making the brakes functional,if not fully "happy". I think we've narrowed down the Harley's "no-start" condition to stale gas. Apparently,today's Ethanol treated gas only has a shelf life of 3 weeks to a Month,and this tank's been full for a little over 2 months. I plugged a good spark plug into the rear cylinder plug wire and cranked it,and it sparks fine,so I doubt there's an ignition problem. It COULD still be a stuck float,but either way,the gas is the problem. I wonder if that "Stabil" gas treatment will refresh gas that's already past its code date. Speed
  9. Got the jets and metering rods changed. I cleaned up the spacer and used new relatively thick gaskets,one below and one above the spacer,backed off on the fast idle screw about half a dozen turns,marked the timing marks enough to see and set the timing around 13 degrees. (Motor's manual says 12 degrees for a '76 Mustang,which is basically what this engine's set up like,now.) Runs a ton better,but still feels slightly off. Now it starts pretty easily,idles well,cold it needs only 10 seconds of choke before it'll run okay without choke. Mixed signals;acts like it's a little rich still,but under load acts lean to me. Going over the Summit to Spring Creek last night it started doing a violent,driveline jolting misfire every time I got into the throttle under load. Giving it about 1/3 to 1/2 choke smoothed it out but it didn't wanna pull anymore. I might back the timing off 2 or 3 degrees and see if that makes it happy. (Also noticed my throttle cable has a stiff spot just off idle-push and nothing happens,it won't move,push a little harder and it jumps to WFO. Hard to drive with finesse that way. Not an issue if I'm racing it.) Over all,seems to have a lot more power. Used 1/8 tank of gas to go approx. 30 miles since getting it running. I'm guessing it was running about 8 mpg when it was jetted wrong,and probably around 16 now. Question-What's a relatively cheap/easy way to add a couple of inches of lift to the B-II front suspension? Since I added overload shocks on the back,and I don't carry as much weight as I'd planned,I'm noticing it drives VERY twitchy on the highway. I've also noticed a little wear on the insides of the front tires. Speed
  10. Okay-the jets from my original carb appear to be #40's. (Looks like "AOF"to me,but my eyes aren't as good as they used to be.) I think I've decoded the number to be "40F". Does that sound right? I got them out with a minimum of damage (for ME). (BTW-I understand the older Holley carbs,whatever "they" mean by older,used the same jets as the Motorcraft carbs,but Motorcraft carbs have always been the same.)I also snagged some pieces of the fast idle cam and adjuster,since I believe that's the linkage my other carb is missing. I also got the metering rods;it's the block between the bores,has a big screw with a little pushrod and a ball under it and another screw holding it in,right? (I assume there's a spring too,but I didn't find one when the other two parts hit the floor.) As soon as I can withstand the cold long enough,(Still pampering the lungs from this cold;don't wanna let it turn into Pneumonia again,ya know.) I'll go pull the carb off the BroncWorth,swap the main jets and see what I can do with the linkage. I have a couple of new base gaskets that are fairly thick,so they should take care of any vacuum leaks. Yeah,the 10si would be the cheap/easy cure,and that sounds good to me. A-I have to get this thing reliable before actual Winter hits,and B-I'm so tired of fighting all these little gremlins I could scream. The Toyota's gonna get 10si'ed too,when I change the engine. Its alternator still works fine,even oil saturated,but why risk a catastrophic failure I can't fix out in the middle of God's Country? At least I can carry some spare parts and replace a Voltage Regulator,brushes,or the diodes if I have to. Speed
  11. What measurements do you need? The carb base measurement is the same used by the Holley and Motorcraft 2 barrels. This adapter would work for a little single throat,but I'd have to cut a hole for the carb or air filter in my hood. I'm planning to pull the 302 carb off and give it a freshen-up,and swap the main jets from my stock carb into it. What else might need to be changed over to work on this 302 carb,to make it work on the smaller engine? I drove the truck a little more today and I lugged the engine a little on a long not very steep hill,and it started dropping cylinders as the plugs loaded up and fouled.Going down the other side,it picked 'em back up,but still ran rough. That's what made me think of using the jets from the 2.8's carb in the 302 carb. (Hope it won't take a special tool to R & R 'em.) Replaced the voltage regulator,I don't think it solved the problem,but it did give me something interesting. The switch that applied power to the coil when the ignition in the start position,I re-installed;now when I turn it on,the voltage on the volt gauge goes up a volt;turn off the cheater switch and the voltage drops a volt. Don't know what that's telling me,but it's weird,it fits right in on a vehicle of mine. Naturally I'd like to just get the wiring fixed properly so things would work as they should,but stuff like this,and the charging system just mystify me. (I know how to wire in a 10si alternator-maybe that's what I should do. It'd be good to get rid of the external voltage regulator and most of the related wiring anyway,and I can find a working 10si just about anywhere.) Speed
  12. I agree with you on carb size vs. engine size;how "basic was the stock carb on something like a '76 Ford (Mustang?) 2.8L? That's what I got my ignition ordered for-maybe the carb would be okay too. Don't really wanna spend the $100+.00 to buy it fresh,but I seriously doubt I'll find a used one in good enough shape to rebuild and use. What if I made a carb plate,like NASCAR uses to "down-size" the available cfm of this carb? I already expect it'd cause some massive tuning headaches. Would THIS work? There's very little hood clearance to work with,so it'd take a pretty short one barrel to work,and I'd have to remote-mount an air box for it. Speed http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transdapt-2044-Carburetor-Adapter-Holley-350-500-650-cfm-2-bbl-To-Ford-Straigh-/221933436469?hash=item33ac437e35:g:ToEAAOSwwbdWPEKP&vxp=mtr
  13. Could there be a plugged filter screen on the fuel pick-up in the tank?I've had that happen before on another truck and it acted like that. Speed
  14. That sounds like just what I want. Soon as I'm out and about again,I'll try to hunt down a better 2100 for this beast (or at LEAST a COMPLETE one). Question-How is it possible for a carb that runs well on a 302 V-8 to ALSO run well,without any mods,on a 2.8L V-6? One of the guys who did this conversion on HIS B-II says the carb works fine with only adjustment of the low speed jets and idle speed. He says it loses a couple of mpg,but the B-II "likes" a little richer mixture. I just don't get his math. (This 2 barrel off a 302 Ford should be a perfect match for my 302 GMC six though,right?) Speed
  15. I guess I must have just been lucky then. My Holley 600 was dependable as anything I ever ran,once it solved its own problem. It was given to me to use on my '62 Chevy one Ton Duallie when the smallblock showed up with a 4 barrel manifold and no carb. Admittedly,it ran like crap for about a week-missed,coughed when I tried to accelerate,barely idled,then one day,just as I was about to hit 3rd gear,it backfired,blew a flame from under the hood,and ran great from then on. The truck hauled eight 55 gallon drums of Diesel to the Microwave sight on Spruce Mountain,at 10,262 feet,and never missed a beat. Granted,I've had other carbs that worked well,but I loved that Holley. Now,this 2100 Motorcraft carb I put on my '84 B-II is getting better,but this truck-I'm not sure where it is right now. I do know it has a couple of vacuum leaks (Very small ones from what I can see),and there's something missing in its linkage,something that apparently had a plate that an adjuster screw contacted for some reason,that may or may not have anything to do with it,so maybe I need to find a better carb to begin with. Looking at the plugs it appears close to "good" for jetting,just slightly darker than with the original carb,which was "perfect". I'll have to contact my "Ford Guy" and see what he can fix me up with. Where's the best deals on kits for these carbs? Speed
  16. "Keep the Toyota 300K Mile Club in mind! These were the trucks that lived up to it." I'd love to do that,but I don't have any proof of its miles except what the original owner told me,and the fact that it looks like a candidate for the Million Mile Club. Speed
  17. I checked into some wiring issues and fixed a few things,as well as finding one thing I still need to fix. My air compressor was tagged to the wrong terminal in the fuse box,making it hot all the time. I was getting away with it by shutting off the power shut off switch,but I have it on a keyed terminal now so it only gets power to the shut off switch with the key on. fixed the dash lights by replacing a connector that was broken. Removed a mercury switch that was power to the coil in the crank position only,but apparently the wire is damaged,so I need to go into it again. I think I'll install the new battery and see how that affects the charge rate. I noticed that once I fixed the compressor snafu the battery doesn't appear to discharge when parked. I notice the engine still runs pretty rough,not bad enough that I can't drive it,but still not good. I ran it awhile and just listened to it,and it runs better with some choke,indicating vacuum leaks,it clears up a little over 3000,but applying throttle makes it misfire more. As soon as my base gaskets get here I hope to fix the vacuum leaks,and once I have a decent Holley carb I'll give it a rebuild and everything should work as planned. On Holley carbs,will it help its off-road performance if I extend the float bowl vent tube an inch or two? Seems like I remember when I had a Holley 600 carb on my '62 Chevy,when I got on steep hills,the float bowl would drain through the vent tube into the engine and flood it. That's been my only problem with Holey carbs. (I'm thinking it won't hurt to replace the plugs and wires when I can afford it too.) Speed
  18. It occurs to me that my T/C noise could be the loose Birfield telegraphing through drivetrain to the T/C. Another one of those things that make you go "HMmmmmmmm...." Oh-we now have a NEW problem. When I got this truck the brakes were rough,to say the least. I replaced both front calipers and the pads with new ones. all was fine until recently,when the rear brakes started dragging,due to axle seals oiling the brake shoes. I cleaned 'em up real well with brake cleaner and backed the adjusters off about a turn,and all was well again.but,no-now the front brakes are doing it,I suspect from the steering knuckle seals leaking 90 wt. onto the rotors and pads. Maybe I should give up,but I can't make myself give in to the little monsters that keep giving me grief. As soon as I have the BroncWorth reliable enough to use,I can take the Toyota off the road and do all the repairs needed to make IT reliable again,but even then,it'll be just an old rolled Toyota truck. (With CHARACTER!) Speed
  19. I decided to not put a lot of time into making this particular carb work;a friend is working on finding me a few Holley 2 barrel carbs. I like working with them more than the Motorcraft carbs. (easier to change the jets on,adjusting the low speed jets is easier,you can buy just about anything for 'em...) It STILL runs badly-won't idle for more than about 3 seconds,misses,cuts out,backfires a LOT coming down to a stop on compression. (almost sounds like a cracked distributor cap. Or maybe it's the timing. Or something in the wiring. Or the voltage is low enough to make it misfire. Or a gummed up carb. Or it's jetted too rich.) I have a couple of proper base gaskets ordered,they should be here by Friday. I've also discovered my alternator doesn't appear to be doing well. Going down the road my battery voltage has been dropping slowly. Pushing the clutch in and revving the engine makes the needle rise about half a volt. It's gone from a solid 14 volts to about 11 last time I drove it;it could be the battery is going bad too-with the meter showing 11 volts,when I tried to start it,the voltage dropped to around 6 and it barely clicked the solenoid. I intend to get it running and warmed up then pull the ground cable off the battery and see if the alternator will carry it. All this could be wiring problems-there was a lot of wiring that was lost or was too destroyed to use,and some that was "ranch-wired". Maybe I didn't wire the alternator right;it worked fine for a while,but suddenly now it isn't keeping up. I've noticed other weird things with the electrics,some I know the cause of,some I don't have a clue. I'll get it worked out though. Speed
  20. I pulled the tappet cover off,and that engine's VERY clean inside,the mechanicals appear to be relatively new;it has a single row timing chain (the stock '81 has a double row-why the difference? Can the single row be as reliable as the double row,which lasted about 300,000 miles?),the chain guides show just a little wear. I'm more concerned about the tappets,where they slide on the cam lobes. While the cam lobes look new,the edges of the tappets that rub on the cam lobes appear to have "debris". It's the kind of thing you see when you apply a piece of metal the the bench grinder for a while. Makes me wonder if someone replaced the cam (or even rebuilt the engine?) but didn't "tune up" the tappet edges. not sure if it's worth taking it apart and applying a little filing to those edges or not. Another couple of weeks I'll have the BroncWorth tagged again,and I can start working on the Toyota. (Turns out it has developed more issues. Needs the engine swapped,rear brakes and axle seals,rear pinion seal,probably a wheel bearing on the left front,both Birfields replaced,all the front end seals replaced,at least one u-joint,but if I do one,I'll do 'em all,both E-brake cables and a set of shocks. Not needed but wanted badly is a Spartan Locker in each end,an A/C compressor and bracket for On Board Air,and a speedometer with a working odometer. (I'm also hearing a "knock" in the T/C in low range,maybe a chipped gear,but I think it'll live.) Speed
  21. I got it to run,again,but it sounds just like it did when it still had the old distributor,carb,computer and wiring;wouldn't idle,ran absolutely TERRIBLE,but I REALLY like the sound of the exhaust. I messed with the timing for quite a while,I have it at about 13 degrees now,checked the plugs and they look to be burning well so far,though they were gapped at .044,so I brought 'em down to .034.I used the plug wires I had on my 355 Chevy before I went over to HEI,and I shortened them to fit a little better. STILL didn't run well. Hooked up my vacuum gauge to it and that showed 15 inches at 1000 rpm,and 10 inches steady at about 700,but still didn't wanna stay running under that. Then I unplugged the vacuum hose to the EGR and capped the line. BOOM-INSTANT SMOOTH!!! STILL won't idle below 1000,but I think I might get results if I adjust the low speed jets-I tried the other night but I can't even SEE the one on the left side,let alone adjust it. I NEEDS me one of those carb adjuster screw drivers. Don't wanna get my knuckles against the air compressor belt again. It's possible I have some minor vacuum leaks between the spacer and the carb;I didn't have new gaskets so I used the old ones and brushed anti seize on because of no Hi-Tack. Next payday I'll get new gaskets and a can of Hi-Tack and work on getting everything properly sealed. I was hoping to get the BroncWorth licensed,but had to spend the money for some food and some dog food. I wouldn't have had enough money left after bills to license it anyway-it'll be $60.00,the DMV's online estimate calculator says. As it is now,I'd feel okay with driving it. Speed
  22. The parts arrived today,so I went to work on installing them. Turns out the cap adapter wasn't needed,and the pigtails for the harness from the module to the distributor weren't needed either,I took the harness off the 2.0L 4 cyl. engine I pulled from an '83 Mustang;it plugs in at each end,so I'm assuming (Probably will be my downfall) that it'll work. Discovered the recent plug wires I'd installed won't fit this cap,so I scrounged a set to work. The coil wire was too short so I had to buy one. I'd been using a lawn tractor battery to check electrics,and found it'd crank the engine for 15 seconds before it started to slow down. I had one wire to connect to the coil for power,so I checked terminals in an 8 terminal plug that wasn't being used until I found one that was dead with the key off and had power with it on and in the start position,cut the wire from the plug and connected the wires together. Found TDC,set the wires where they should be on the cap,took the battery out of the '54 GMC and put it in the B-II.and tried to start it,but it was out of gas. Emptied my 5 gallon gas can into the tank and cranked it long enough to get gas to the carb. Next project will have to be installing a choke cable and making a new remote starter since my old one seems to have migrated to the Twilight Zone. Speed
  23. Good stories-these B-II's seem to inspire adventures. I got my '84 when a friend called to say he was moving and had to get rid of all his four wheelers. He GAVE me the one I drive now,and another one that was stripped and cut down for strictly off road-no roof,doors or hood. the "yard goat" (I used it to tow cars around where I had them stored) had an automatic,my driver has a 5 speed. I sold the transmission from the yard goat to a young couple who lived in Fernley and scrapped the rest of it since it had no Title. Before I hauled it away,though,I noticed the wheels both turned the same direction with the rear end off the ground,so I pulled the cover,and discovered it had a new Detroit Locker in it. That rear end is in my other Bronco II now. The front of the "good" B-II was all pushed in,the radiator ruined,core support bent,and the clutch was shot,so I pulled the core support out as straight as I could,found a radiator from a parts truck and used the grille from the yard goat and put in a new Borg Warner clutch. It worked well until the gearshift broke off,so I did some mods to the shifting tower and made a shifter from a heated and straightened stick from a spare SM420. It's a little hard to find the gates until you're used to it,but it works great. I've run 10 wt. synthetic motor oil in the T/C since I got it. I've since added a double tube front bumper and grille guard and a rectangular tube rear bumper and receiver hitch that also serves as an air tank for my home built on board air. I also replaced what remained of the bucket seats with a split bench from a Ranger,and installed a tilt wheel steering column from an '86 Ranger. I had to mix and match some stuff to make everything work but it was mostly plug-n-play. I've used this rig so much for towing I re-named it the BroncWorth. (It thinks it's a Kenworth,and from what it's done,I'm inclined to agree.) I've towed a car trailer load of scrap to the scrap yard twice-first one was 9010 pounds and second was 8977 pounds,towed a car trailer from Carlin to Spring Creek hauling a '76 Jeep J-10 with 3 engines in the back,pushed a Ford 2 ton service truck across Ryndon,across the freeway,over the frontage road to Elburz,across the freeway again and up to the top of the hill between Ryndon and Elburz. (That job beat up the right side of the front bumper a little. I NEVER thought I'd be able to bend 4 inch well casing!) Suffice to say,this truck has never failed to go where I wanted to go,push or pull what I needed to move or impress the people I deal with. Even my 73 year old Sister loves it. It's been down for a couple of months because I had to replace the starter ring gear,and I figured,since I have the engine out,why not "de-smogify" it. I removed all the vacuum plumbing,smog pump,put the engine back in and fired it up,and it ran TERRIBLE. I was informed I'd now have to remove the ECM,remove all the wiring under hood except what went to battery,alternator and starter,replace the carb and replace the distributor. Well,all that's done but I learned that the new distributor uses a different cap and rotor,with an adapter,and I had to build a bracket to mount the module that's needed,and find a place for a different coil. (For lack of a more convenient location,the coil is bolted to the right master cylinder stud,and the module bracket mounts to the left master cylinder stud.) The rest of the parts will be here Tuesday,and I hope to have it running before dark that day. I didn't check on it,but I hope to have enough money left to get it re-licensed. (I let it expire,since it was apart and I really didn't know when it'd run again.) Looking forward to driving it again! If all goes well,it should make more power AND get better mileage. (I think I'll have to go a couple of sizes leaner on the main jets,though the author of the article insists it'll do just fine with the same jetting that was used on a small block Ford V-8. We'll see.....) Speed
  24. Thanks Moses; Here's my thinking on this particular engine. After having Dutch hear it run and drive it,I feel pretty comfortable that it'll run for a while without major issues. Before installation,I'm going to clean the engine and pull the valve cover,and look at the guides from topside;if they look okay,I'll go with it as is and install the engine in my truck. If it makes bad sounds with the exhaust sealed up,I'll plan on going into it later,if not too bad. (Remembering my original timing chain,which I could clearly HEAR it rattle,but on opening it up,everything except the tensioner looked fine,I COULD easily have used the guides again,but since I had NEW ones...) Before installing the engine,if the guides appear overly worn,I'll probably just figure it for rings,bearings and a new double row timing set with the metal-backed guides,and probably an oil pump,and keep driving the leaker while I do this,THEN swap it. As much as I'd like to rebuild the original engine,with over 300K on it I suspect it'll need more than rings-n-bearings,plus it has a hole or two with buggered threads and possibly (probably?)a cracked timing cover,so I'd save THAT engine for an extensive going over later on. My big issue is that,to do a timing chain on this engine,it's highly recommended that I pull the cylinder head. (Trying to avoid that is what started this mess.) At that point,I might as well just do the rebuild and get it over with,so the break over point is pulling the head. If I can use it as is or make it relatively good short of that,I'll run it;if it takes anything more,it's overhaul time. Once the BroncWorth is operable and legal,I can spend more time on the 'yota and put more effort ($$) into doing it up right. A LOT of this depends on a lot of other factors,it truly is a matter of "making my choices on-the-run". It appears the "look down the timing case and see how it looks" method is pretty universally accepted,so I'll go with that. Speed
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