Jump to content


Subscriber Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Speed

  1. Sold,to a Man with a yard full of Land Cruisers. He also wants to buy the frame,cab and bed of the '81 "Rolling Wreck as soon as his car trailer is done.
  2. Needs rings-N-bearings, but ran okay. Head is off but the engine is all there. Has recent double-row timing set and sliders Includes a new ceramic disc clutch, carbs, distributors, extra timing cover, exhaust manifold. Other parts from '81 Toyota 4X4 available cheap. $100.00 cash can load it. Call James at (775)-934-4760 Located in Elko,Nevada
  3. Well,I got the module swapped to a GM one-no joy. Pulled the module and went to EVERY shop in town to get it tested-no luck. Nobody is equipped to terst one. Finally found Konakis Automotive has the official tester,and my used module was toast. bought a new one at NAPA,installed it,still no spark. RE-checked my wiring,it is all correct. I've concluded my problem is either the 2 wire harness from my module to the distributor is damaged,the plug at the distributor isn't connecting or the pick up IN the distributor is smoked. I'm going to disconnect that harness at both ends and check it for da
  4. I think whatever parts I get will have to be from a Ranger,since many of them were equipped with the drivetrain I want,while I OWN the only Explorer I've ever seen with a manual transmission and I've never found one that didn't have electronic Four Wheel Drive/automatic hubs. Speed
  5. I originally found the conversion on Marlin Crawler's website,seems several people have also done it and there's quite a lot of diversity on the methods and the parts used. I'd been looking for a discussion that covered some other conversions as well,the one I wanted was the Ford Blue-Grommet module,but I didn't find that one. The GM one is pretty simple-the two wires from the Distributor go to one end of the module,the terminals marked W and G. (If there's no spark,I can reverse these two wires and all should be fine.) The other two wires to the module,one of which is marked B,for Battery,goe
  6. The Toyota developed a NEW issue-no spark. It died on the road,suddenly,just like I turned off the ignition. Plenty of cranking power,but NO spark. After having the coil tested and found okay,popular opinion is that the ignitor is the problem. I now have the parts to convert to a GM ignition module,I just need to make an aluminum base plate to mount the module to and get some di-electric grease,and grow some warm weather to do the install and it should be a runner again. I bought a fuel pressure regulator and installed it,set to 2-1/2 psi to start with,then I went through and re-set th
  7. The Clark is a heavier gearbox than a 465,and is completely non-synchro. The MAIN attraction I have for a 465 is it's QUIET,and having some synchronized gears is also a good thing. I feel like the powertrain through the 465 is probably more efficient than the Clark,so less power is lost and better gas mileage is likely. I'm okay with no synchros,but the gear noise of a Clark (I'm pretty sure it's straight-cut gears,which are inherently noisy.) is pretty deafening at road speed,especially when it's singing in harmony with a 3 speed Brownie,which I WON'T give up. (I suspect there are some tired
  8. What's the market looking like for a Clark 5 speed w/Overdrive? Maybe there's a full sized rock crawler out there that can use a break-proof box with a built-in "higher gear".I'm REALLY not sure it's worth the expense to convert it just for a set of synchro's... Speed.
  9. Yeah,the instructions for the carb conversion say SEVERAL times to try to keep the fuel pressure below 3.5 psi,and I figured the stock fuel pump wasn't likely to run significantly more than that. Saturday I had a guy at the Garage (working on his own truck,off the clock) make some adjustments, and while I don't think it runs BETTER,it certainly runs differently. I KNOW I need to re-adjust the choke,he messed with it a lot,and he found a couple of adjusters (?) that don't show on any pictures/diagrams I've seen. I'll set the low speed mixture screw back to specs and try to get the idle
  10. I'm told the 700R4 was GM's first 4 speed OD automatic,meant to replace the old T350,and eventually replaced the T400 too,then came the 4L60 and the Heavy Duty 4L80 series. Since it's a '90 Heavy Half,it was,I think,the first year of the 700R4 replacing the T400 in the heavy duty half ton models. I agree,the mechanics of the conversion,while likely expensive ,won't be that hard,but the electrics will be a nightmare. Speed
  11. As it stands,I've installed a Weber carb on the engine,which seems to have improved the running markedly,though it still has the "tugboat" sounding idle,to a lesser degree. I'm looking at checking the compression next (I can't believe I haven't checked it yet-maybe I DID and it was okay....)followed by adjusting the valves. I ALSO changed both 22R engines over to 10si one wire alternators that make 105 amps,though the kits I used require mods to the adjustment brackets. The one on the '82 truck I'll be eventually swapping my axles into required offsetting the "J-bracket" outward an inch away f
  12. It sounds like his main concern is what he'll need to save out of the wiring to make the gas engine work in a Diesel truck. He also says the Diesel is a 5 speeder,but the gas engine is mated to a 700R4,so is there a way to keep the stick and link it to the 5.7L gas motor? If not,I guess he can use the auto. and whatever wiring goes to it,and change to the gas ECM. I don't think I'd get much enjoyment from doing this kinda conversion on something with all this electric junk to figure out and cross-match. Speed
  13. Since finding the transmission I want won't be so tough,the next issue is the driveline. There's a guy here in Elko who builds/rebuilds 'em,and he usually gets about $250.00 each plus parts to rebuild one or re-tube one. Is that about typical,or do you have a favorite shop for driveline work? I already know I'll need to lengthen the rear section about 4 inches,and I wouldn't mind using a little longer slip yoke,to prevent wobble,since,as heavy as it'll be,it'll be spinning pretty fast at 3780 RPM on the highway. What do you think? I haven't checked transmission length between the Clark and the
  14. I mentioned,in the 90 GMC Forum,that I sold that truck;it made me laugh that the buyer of the '90 was REALLY interested in the '54. Apparently the owner of the place where it's stored has been asked about the '54 several times already. As he tells them, "Everything here is for sale. THAT truck (the '54 GMC)-you don't wanna know the price. If you're SERIOUS though,make an offer and I'll pass it on to the owner." Not sure if I'd sell it or not. I don't use it often,but when I do it's to do stuff nothing else I have can do. Besides-I REALLY LIKE IT! I decided if I DO change the transmission I'll
  15. I'd been trying to get the previous owner to work with me in getting a Title on this truck,but it sounds like there's a second name on it that belongs to an ex-girlfriend/drinking buddy he REALLY doesn't wanna talk to,so it looked like an alternate method was the only option. I decided to cut my losses and sell it as is,as a parts truck,so I advertised it online. A local rancher bought it for $750.00;he has a Diesel powered one a couple of years newer with an exploded engine and wants to use this one for the Engine/Trans./T/C to swap in,as I understand it. I told him to get logged onto this Fo
  16. I got a shifter from a friend,but still need the pivot bolt. I have a ball valve handle that almost fits the transfer case,I think with a little careful filing I can make it fit. Then all I need to do is cut it down to the right length,drill a hole for the shift rod end to go into and engineer an adjuster of some sort for the rod,in case the length isn't exactly right. (I suspect this shifter is off a full size Ford truck,so I don't know if it mounts in the same place on the transmission.) I ALSO need to find out what size the threads are for the pivot bolt,I think I'll have to make one to get
  17. I'm adding that 10 psi residual valve to my shopping list. Looking back,with all the gearing this truck already has,I guess it doesn't matter how low first gear is,so that makes the transmission search a lot easier. I'd STILL like to find the transmission mounted E-brake though,but NOT to use on the main box. I just want to use the lever and ratchet assembly,and I'll build a rod long enough to reach from the stock E-brake lever to the brake on the back of the Brownie,to replace the cable operated "on or off" lever in the cab. I'm starting to think,AGAIN,about working this truck
  18. Well,changing the controls didn't make any difference on the Cruise Control,so the next move is going to the Shop and using the "Smoke Machine" to try to track down vacuum leaks. Not really sure what else it could be,and the repair manuals studiously avoid mentioning the diagnostics or repair of ANY of the accessories. This is the FIRST truck with Cruise I've ever owned that DIDN'T work. Speed
  19. I think I'll be looking at a trip to Pick-N-Pull for seats next time they have a Half Price Day. Speed
  20. Hey,I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row to convert my '93 Exploder to a manual-shifted Transfer Case and still need a few parts. I need the shifter,complete with the pivot bolt and the tab to attach the shifting rod to the shifting fork in the T/C,and a set of locking hubs,with the related wheel bearing nuts,jam-nuts and springs,etc. Stock ones are fine,I'm not that rough on drivetrain. If anyone has spares they won't need,let me know what you want for them and I'll give it a go. BTW-I'm told the shifter from a B-II or Ranger with a manual T/C is a bolt-in,but since I don't have one of THO
  21. Just out of curiosity,how much of a bag of snakes is it to swap a '93 Explorer 4.0 into an '84 Bronco II? Happens I have a '93 parts truck with all the electrics and a good 4.0 now....Only thing is that my '84 is a 5 speed,which I want to keep,but the 4.0 is an automatic. Speed
  22. I decided my best move is to swap my '81 Yota axles over to the '82,swap the P/S set up over,and pull the engine,Transmission and T/C and whatever else could be used from the '81 and scrap the rest. I REALLY don't need ANOTHER truck,and this one (the '81) needs too much work to save. I'll get the '81 up on stands under the frame,pull the wheels off and borrow a set of those wheel dollies,pull the front and rear axles and springs complete and wheel them over under the other truck and jack them up into place. I bought new urethane bushings to use under the other truck,but will have to b
  23. Okay,got all four ball joints and the tie rod ends done,got it aligned (twice),and apparently the lower axle ends are slightly bent,so the alignment is maxed out even with the 2 degree bushings. Apparently the previous owner had bent them playing "Dukes Of Hazard" with the truck. The Ford dealer has a place in Kentucky that straightens them but with the shipping,tear-down and reassembly of the front end,ANOTHER alignment and the cost of the repair I'm figuring it'd be cheaper to just swap in the front end from the parts truck,replace the ball joints AGAIN and get ANOTHER alignment. A job for a
  24. Okay-I got the exhaust tightened up,Got the wheel bearings packed/replaced,and the Exploder is substantially more fun to drive. Still a bit road-wild,due to the right lower ball joint being shot,but FAR better than before. Gassed it up and drove to Carlin and back,and it seems to be better gas mileage around town than on the highway-To Carlin,a wee bit of creeping around town there,and back got 18.2 mpg,but before that,a week of just town driving around Elko got me 20.4 mpg. The mileage COULD be about the same if I kept the highway speed closer to 65-70 instead of 75-80. (80 is about 3000 rpm.
  25. Found a shop that "specializes" in rusted exhaust bolts;their shop looks a mess but they have a good rep for doing good reliable work,so I'm getting an estimate to fix the exhaust leaks and do a wheel bearing pack,installing the locking hubs I'll be bringing in. (I have new Timken bearings and National grease seals to use-they're fine with using the parts I bring in,as long as they're not used or "no-name" junk.) I have a brake hose to replace on the right front,but I can do that myself. I also bought some synthetic ATF to use in the T/C when I install the manual shift unit. Still need a coupl
  • Create New...