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Speed

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About Speed

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Elko,Nv.
  • Interests
    Old Cars & Trucks,Harleys,BIG Old Trucks,exploring Ghost Towns,Nevada History

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  1. Well,I got the module swapped to a GM one-no joy. Pulled the module and went to EVERY shop in town to get it tested-no luck. Nobody is equipped to terst one. Finally found Konakis Automotive has the official tester,and my used module was toast. bought a new one at NAPA,installed it,still no spark. RE-checked my wiring,it is all correct. I've concluded my problem is either the 2 wire harness from my module to the distributor is damaged,the plug at the distributor isn't connecting or the pick up IN the distributor is smoked. I'm going to disconnect that harness at both ends and check it for da
  2. I think whatever parts I get will have to be from a Ranger,since many of them were equipped with the drivetrain I want,while I OWN the only Explorer I've ever seen with a manual transmission and I've never found one that didn't have electronic Four Wheel Drive/automatic hubs. Speed
  3. I originally found the conversion on Marlin Crawler's website,seems several people have also done it and there's quite a lot of diversity on the methods and the parts used. I'd been looking for a discussion that covered some other conversions as well,the one I wanted was the Ford Blue-Grommet module,but I didn't find that one. The GM one is pretty simple-the two wires from the Distributor go to one end of the module,the terminals marked W and G. (If there's no spark,I can reverse these two wires and all should be fine.) The other two wires to the module,one of which is marked B,for Battery,goe
  4. The Toyota developed a NEW issue-no spark. It died on the road,suddenly,just like I turned off the ignition. Plenty of cranking power,but NO spark. After having the coil tested and found okay,popular opinion is that the ignitor is the problem. I now have the parts to convert to a GM ignition module,I just need to make an aluminum base plate to mount the module to and get some di-electric grease,and grow some warm weather to do the install and it should be a runner again. I bought a fuel pressure regulator and installed it,set to 2-1/2 psi to start with,then I went through and re-set th
  5. The Clark is a heavier gearbox than a 465,and is completely non-synchro. The MAIN attraction I have for a 465 is it's QUIET,and having some synchronized gears is also a good thing. I feel like the powertrain through the 465 is probably more efficient than the Clark,so less power is lost and better gas mileage is likely. I'm okay with no synchros,but the gear noise of a Clark (I'm pretty sure it's straight-cut gears,which are inherently noisy.) is pretty deafening at road speed,especially when it's singing in harmony with a 3 speed Brownie,which I WON'T give up. (I suspect there are some tired
  6. What's the market looking like for a Clark 5 speed w/Overdrive? Maybe there's a full sized rock crawler out there that can use a break-proof box with a built-in "higher gear".I'm REALLY not sure it's worth the expense to convert it just for a set of synchro's... Speed.
  7. Yeah,the instructions for the carb conversion say SEVERAL times to try to keep the fuel pressure below 3.5 psi,and I figured the stock fuel pump wasn't likely to run significantly more than that. Saturday I had a guy at the Garage (working on his own truck,off the clock) make some adjustments, and while I don't think it runs BETTER,it certainly runs differently. I KNOW I need to re-adjust the choke,he messed with it a lot,and he found a couple of adjusters (?) that don't show on any pictures/diagrams I've seen. I'll set the low speed mixture screw back to specs and try to get the idle
  8. I'm told the 700R4 was GM's first 4 speed OD automatic,meant to replace the old T350,and eventually replaced the T400 too,then came the 4L60 and the Heavy Duty 4L80 series. Since it's a '90 Heavy Half,it was,I think,the first year of the 700R4 replacing the T400 in the heavy duty half ton models. I agree,the mechanics of the conversion,while likely expensive ,won't be that hard,but the electrics will be a nightmare. Speed
  9. As it stands,I've installed a Weber carb on the engine,which seems to have improved the running markedly,though it still has the "tugboat" sounding idle,to a lesser degree. I'm looking at checking the compression next (I can't believe I haven't checked it yet-maybe I DID and it was okay....)followed by adjusting the valves. I ALSO changed both 22R engines over to 10si one wire alternators that make 105 amps,though the kits I used require mods to the adjustment brackets. The one on the '82 truck I'll be eventually swapping my axles into required offsetting the "J-bracket" outward an inch away f
  10. It sounds like his main concern is what he'll need to save out of the wiring to make the gas engine work in a Diesel truck. He also says the Diesel is a 5 speeder,but the gas engine is mated to a 700R4,so is there a way to keep the stick and link it to the 5.7L gas motor? If not,I guess he can use the auto. and whatever wiring goes to it,and change to the gas ECM. I don't think I'd get much enjoyment from doing this kinda conversion on something with all this electric junk to figure out and cross-match. Speed
  11. Since finding the transmission I want won't be so tough,the next issue is the driveline. There's a guy here in Elko who builds/rebuilds 'em,and he usually gets about $250.00 each plus parts to rebuild one or re-tube one. Is that about typical,or do you have a favorite shop for driveline work? I already know I'll need to lengthen the rear section about 4 inches,and I wouldn't mind using a little longer slip yoke,to prevent wobble,since,as heavy as it'll be,it'll be spinning pretty fast at 3780 RPM on the highway. What do you think? I haven't checked transmission length between the Clark and the
  12. I mentioned,in the 90 GMC Forum,that I sold that truck;it made me laugh that the buyer of the '90 was REALLY interested in the '54. Apparently the owner of the place where it's stored has been asked about the '54 several times already. As he tells them, "Everything here is for sale. THAT truck (the '54 GMC)-you don't wanna know the price. If you're SERIOUS though,make an offer and I'll pass it on to the owner." Not sure if I'd sell it or not. I don't use it often,but when I do it's to do stuff nothing else I have can do. Besides-I REALLY LIKE IT! I decided if I DO change the transmission I'll
  13. I'd been trying to get the previous owner to work with me in getting a Title on this truck,but it sounds like there's a second name on it that belongs to an ex-girlfriend/drinking buddy he REALLY doesn't wanna talk to,so it looked like an alternate method was the only option. I decided to cut my losses and sell it as is,as a parts truck,so I advertised it online. A local rancher bought it for $750.00;he has a Diesel powered one a couple of years newer with an exploded engine and wants to use this one for the Engine/Trans./T/C to swap in,as I understand it. I told him to get logged onto this Fo
  14. I got a shifter from a friend,but still need the pivot bolt. I have a ball valve handle that almost fits the transfer case,I think with a little careful filing I can make it fit. Then all I need to do is cut it down to the right length,drill a hole for the shift rod end to go into and engineer an adjuster of some sort for the rod,in case the length isn't exactly right. (I suspect this shifter is off a full size Ford truck,so I don't know if it mounts in the same place on the transmission.) I ALSO need to find out what size the threads are for the pivot bolt,I think I'll have to make one to get
  15. I'm adding that 10 psi residual valve to my shopping list. Looking back,with all the gearing this truck already has,I guess it doesn't matter how low first gear is,so that makes the transmission search a lot easier. I'd STILL like to find the transmission mounted E-brake though,but NOT to use on the main box. I just want to use the lever and ratchet assembly,and I'll build a rod long enough to reach from the stock E-brake lever to the brake on the back of the Brownie,to replace the cable operated "on or off" lever in the cab. I'm starting to think,AGAIN,about working this truck
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