bamafan1
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4x4 Oversize Tires, Gearing and Fuel Efficiency
bamafan1 replied to Moses Ludel's topic in Off-Topic and General Discussion
I'd like an opinion on mpg, I run 33x10.50x15 BFG MT's (on it when I bought it). Mostly in town driving as far as street use goes and I checked mpg ob last tank and averaging 12.6 which seems significantly lower than average of 15 mpg. Just wondered if "misfire" is contributing to fuel consumption too? -
Another subject I'd like an opinion on is mpg, I run 33x10.50x15 BFG MT's (on it when I bought it). Mostly in town driving as far as street use goes and I checked mpg ob last tank and averaging 12.6 which seems significantly lower than average of 15 mpg. Just wondered if "misfire" is contributing to fuel consumption too?
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Thank you for addressing the code question. However, if the engine is running and I unplug the IAC and/or IAT should the engine stall like it does when I unplug the MAP?
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So if the engine is running and I disconnect the plug on the IAC and/or the IAT wouldn't that affect the engine and/or cause it to stall like it does when I disconnect the MAP? Would the IAC and IAT throw a code? When I disconnect either the IAC or the IAT there's no "reaction" by the engine nor do I get any code other than P0301.
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Just out of curiosity, what should happen when you unplug the IAC. Not remove it, just disconnect it. Also, what is the part near the rear of the intake manifold, it sorta looks like a brass pipe plug? What should happen when you unplug it as well? Both questions are related to when the engine is running at idle.
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I'm back with a dumb question. After driving my jeep if I remove the distributor cap should the rotor be near/pointing close where plug wire #1 connects to the distributor?
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Moses, please note that I do not nor have felt that any suggestions were provided by you or anyone else to just spend $$. As for your criteria I think #1 and #2 (of your criteria) are good. Oil gauge has held same position since day one. #2 I think is good to based upon earlier check. That being said, unfortunately I don't have the skills, knowledge, or tools to confirm or deny #3 or #4. Any chance you could come to Alabama and instruct me in person? (just kidding, as I realize that's not feasible)
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I bought the Mopar TPS in lieu of "aftermarket" because of the general sensitivity of the 4.0. As for the coolness of plug #1 as testing proceeded it did eventually warm up. When we checked compression we did it on #1 & #2 only. #1 was between 120-125psi, #2 was between 130-135psi. According to Mitchell1's website, compression should be 120-150 (discovered that after compression test). As for head gasket, I don't think that's the issue. Radiator is full as is reservoir and neither have been touched since I took ownership 27 months ago. So, all that being said, I'm back to my original dilemma: I don't have knowledge or tools to continue on my own and am concerned if I take it to a shop or dealer I'll spend unnecessary $$.
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Just a brief note I don't think I mentioned previously. When the mechanic and I were doing the various checks (compression, intake manifold leak, swapped injectors, etc.) we originally pulled #1 & #2 plugs. #1 was not warm, but sparked fine. #2 was warm, not impossible to hold, but warm enough. I haven't replaced the $120 Mopar TPS yet because of the recent valve spring conversation. I don't want to waste $120 by installing it as I'll need that $$ to have the valve spring replaced. Unfortunately, due to my lack of engine knowledge and tools I'm probably going to have to take this to a dealer to finish diagnose. Any idea what that might cost?
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Thank you for info. Unfortunately, I'm not that experienced to do alone (nor do I have all the correct tools). Maybe I can find a video or step by step instructions. Again, thanks for the advice.
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It's a '98 with a 4.0, manual. I have Seafoamed but not used Mopar product. As for the valve spring, I considered that based upon some advice and forums. However, idle doesn't seem rough (rpm's are constant when sitting still). Also, I've been lead to believe I'd hear noise too. How difficult is it to replace a valve spring?
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I've got a manual transmission. Is it safe to assume the CPS would have a separate code? I'm assuming it's functioning properly, but I'm not sure what, if anything, the previous owner may or may not have replaced. I've decided that I'll try a new TPS and ask if I can return the CPS if unused/uninstalled. At least that way I can compare what I've got vs. what should be.
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Well, I was going to do the TPS first then CPS. The only reason I mention the CPS too is that fact that it was loose nor know if it's the original or not. If it was replaced with an inferior product then who knows. As for any spec's I'll always be glad to get any info possible.
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Thanks again for the input. I had read the post from 2008 and have considered replacing the TPS and CPS with Mopar components. As for the capabilities of the scan tools I can borrow, I honestly don't know. As soon as I do more checks I'll post it. Again, thanks for your time and suggestions. Will advise.
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Happy New Year!!! No obvious driveability or performance issues, just getting the code. While I know it's not about to "die", it bugs me because I know there's a reason, whatever it may be, that's making it come on.
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Well, drove 2 miles this morning and it's back. Checked code and it's still P0301. I'm sure there's a logical explanation, however, I'm not smart enough to figure it out.
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Moses, bought the cleaner today. Removed CPS, and as I started I noticed the bolts were loose enough to turn by hand. Not sure why they were loose as it has not been touched (to my knowledge) since I took owenership 26 months ago. Cleaned everything very well and re-installed. Then moved to PCM. Removed and inspected but it barely had any dust on plugs under cover. Pins were clean and still had the shiny brass look. Re-installed PCM. Cranked it and no check engine light. I did not clear code before or after this step. Drove it about 10 miles and so far so good. Obviously I'm not 100% sure that it's corrected but going to keep my fingers crossed. Will see how it goes and advise again soon. Again, thank you for your time and help.
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Moses, I really appreciate all the advice/ideas. I'll follow this avenue and see what happens.
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A noid test was done when injectors were swapped (forgot to include that) and the noid test checked ok. What's the best way to clean the PCM - can of air like for laptop? CRC contact cleaner?
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Folks I need some help with the same P0301 code. I've owned this TJ for 26 months. No other codes have shown up and this one has been intermittent. By intermittent I mean the check engine light comes on and stays on for a few weeks then has gone off without use of a scanner. It currently has 131,000 miles since Agust 2013, I've done the following: Changed plugs, wires, distributor, rotor button. Cleared code, it came back. Seafoam-ed the engine, cleared the code, and it came back. Changed #1 plug from an Autolite AP985 to a Champion 412. Cleared code, and it came back. Paid local mechanic to do vacuum check and swap #1 & #3 injector. As you guessed, cleared code and it came back. Any ideas, advice, special prayers? I would appreciate any help anyone can offer. Just as an FYI, I've had access to a Matco MD80 scanner ($550 retail) and a $4,000 Matco (don't remember it's model number). I include that just to let everyone know that I've not been using $10 scanners to clear the code (maybe that's the problem). Again, I appreciate any ideas/advice.
