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Sinisterwillys1940

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About Sinisterwillys1940

  • Rank
    Gabriel

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minniesota
  • Interests
    Fixing and tinkering

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  1. Upon review of the fsm I found a test on how to check the yoke angles to see if I need some wedge shims.The vehicle needs a full tank of gas and nothing in the trunk space and on level ground. Then measure the angle from the yoke on the differential side, then the shaft side. The angles should be within 1.5 degrees of each other. If my angles are correct then my height is where it should be and the load change on the u joints.Then that means I need to look into diagnosing bad u joints. If the angles are out side of spec then I need some angle shims to angle the axle up or down a specified degree thus changing the load on the u joints to where it should be. The reason I think it looks higher in the back than the front is that the front has compressed the 4 years its been redone. I'll scan the fsm page on to here
  2. With it sitting in the dive way (its slanted) the hard top looks almost level. Sitting in it also looks like its off. So I think I got a hold of the wrong springs
  3. Its supposed to be stock height. I'll have to give the parts people a call on why I ended up with a lift kit instead. That does make alot more sense why suddenly the drive shaft length has changed
  4. I Measured the lengths I got 23" from the front eyelet to the top of the axle, and 22" from the top of the axle to rear eyelet. Looking at the page I bought the springs they are 45" long in total length. But the eyelets defiantly are different sizes. One is noticeably bigger and is currently sitting in the front, and a smaller one in the back on the shackle. Maybe theres a shim that got left out? Heres the eyelets
  5. I never would've thought that the springs could be backwards. Now the shackles could do it too since they look nothing like the original ones. they had 2 different bolt holes one higher and lower. How do I figure out which oerientation the springs fo on? Suspension isn't really my cup of tea lol
  6. I checked the angle. The shaft pulled out of the rear yoke. My phones having trouble in the cold so I cant take a picture. Could the rear shackles be the cause?
  7. Hello all. I have a 1990 jeep wrangler with a 2.5l 4cyl engine. The engine is young, only 4 or 5 thousand miles on it. However the rest of the drive train has 264,000 miles on it. Anyway the saga continues after adding new rear leaf springs. After the replacement on the way home this noise happens only when I let off the throttle. I think the ride hight is higher than what the stock was. But that should still not cause this noise Right? My question is what the stock springs should be just to verify I have the right springs and and what the awful sounds coming from the transfer case. Transfer cases are a bit of uncharted territory for me I'm unfamiliar with it. I have a video included. What shall I check first?
  8. I got the figures from the Haynes manual. The weather has been sunny lately here and It was running way better, I had plenty of power and it idled lower and smoother. then it started raining and the idle changed and I had less power than before. I'm convinced the issue is the plug wires.
  9. I checked the coil resistance. the primary had .3 ohms and the secondary had 7.25 ohms. I could've mixed up which circuit is which. If I'm not mistaken the primary is supposed to be at least .4 or .5 ohms. right? I'm not sure what the readings are supposed to be
  10. Makes sense. I did the spark ark test. I used a screwdriver instead and I could see a tiny little orange ark. If I was to assume the ark should be a little brighter than what I had
  11. I checked the cap and rotor. the cap is still pretty new, from the fall but it had some corrosion on the tower contacts. I gave them a quick clean, and I cleaned the rotor as well. Both are still pretty good shape. I certainly agree that the wires are causing problems. I'll have to do the spark arc test when I get the chance
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