Stacey
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Thanks for the info. The link to McCarrMaster has the shims in sheets and rolls and in just about any size needed. I think the roll would be better since it already has the round shape. I like his idea about how to keep it in place. I had planned on cutting it like he said, but then using some loctite compound and a tailpipe expander to hold it in place overnight to cure. I'll try his idea and if it doesn't work, I have extra to try something different. Thanks again and tell your contact thanks for me, I appreciate yalls help. Stacey
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Thanks, When I first considered ordering the speedie sleeve, I read up on it and it did say to remove the sleeve, you can flatten it with a hammer to loosen and remove it, so I'm thinking it might get flat spots in housing depending on where it's getting most of the force from and it does stretch to fit on different shaft sizes. It just seem simple to install with retaining compound on cup and knock in housing. Any way I decided to send it back and order a roll or 2 of different sizes of spring steel shim stock and give that a try. I'll remeasure to try and get the correct sizes. I'll let you know how it works out. Thank for the help and suggestions: Stacey
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As usual--thanks again: I have the exact brand and part numbers for bearing/race that you listed. I'll look into your other options. I think the cast iron sleeve is probably out of the question. I already looked at the corrugated shim ring and like you said--it wouldn't fit in between the race and housing now as it is. As for as the speedie sleeve, I'm getting inconsistent answers, I think the person that replied to my email from SKF wasn't a engineer. I have a speedie sleeve that I might just try and see what happens, but before I do that, I'll read what the other people in you link are doing. I'm just about at my wits in--maybe I'll just tack weld it in place and let somebody else fool with it next time--lol, no I'm not doing that. What ever I decide to do, I'll let you know and how it works out. Thanks: Stacey
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Thanks. it looks like your contacts statement about the shims, he is talking about the shims that go between the brake backing plate and the axle housing mounting flange. I have factory shims for that. I'm referring to cutting shim stock the width of the race long enough to wrap around the bearing race. Maybe i'm misunderstanding. The split collar might work if there wasn't a mounting flange in the way, but the bearing cup is about a half inch wide, the mounting flange is a quarter inch think and has a weld bead on the back side holding the flange on. That would put the collar about a half inch from the end of housing and the cup more than likely would have to extend out of housing a little for end play. Ya'll please don't get offended by me questioning your ideas because I have none and any idea is welcomed. Let me know what he says about using shim stock and what kind because the 2 most common types I see are stainless steel and carbon steel. As usual-- thanks again
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Man, thanks for all your help in trying to figure this out. The way it looks, I'm pretty sure I'm not the only Jeep owner that has this issue. I'm thinking about using the Loctite 660 retaining paste and giving it a try. I noticed on my backing plate that the bearing was starting to spin in the housing by a ever so slight groove being started around backing plate, that's kinda why I purchased Parts By George backing plate kit, since I was going to get some more backing plates. I went ahead and ordered some Dana 35 plates on ebay to give it a try before I ran into this problem. I can't use the kit if the bearing race spins because I see what it will do to a steel plate much less a aluminum bracket. What about shim stock? I read where some people used shim stock. Is that a possibility? Anyway--I think I'm going to put my passengers side together the correct way and wait to see what you find out about my drivers side. Do you think I should use some retaining compound on the passengers side just for insurance even though the bearing fits real snug? Thanks again for your help--much appreciated: Stacey
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Just received my answer from SKF about using the speedie sleeve---short and blunt--no not recommended, so I guess thats off the table. Loctite retaining compound probably would work, I just can't wrap my head around glueing steel to steel. What do you think about steel shim stock loctite in place? I just feel like I need something to take up the slight play and maybe have some support. The only 3 right options would be to get a new or used housing that isn't wore, have someone cut and replace the housing end or get a over sized bearing cup and have it cut down to my size, all are either expensive and/or impossible around my area. My jeep isn't a daily driver, so I don't want to sink too much money into it and it's been running like that for no telling how long. Any thoughts on steel shim stock? Thanks: Stacey
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Also, the sleeve slides in snug up to the first ridge in housing, may be too tight once installed on cup. I contacted SKF about using sleeve for this purpose, but haven't heard back yet. I'll let ya'll know what they say and what I decide to do. Not sure how accurate my measurements are but should be pretty close. Thanks: Stacey
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The 2 aluminum thickness is .006" or .16mm. The Skf sleeve is .011" or .30mm. Looks like the passenger side housing opening is 65.03mm and the drivers side housing opening is 65.23mm. These measurements are made with a cheap harbor freight digital caliper. I also used a .006 feeler guage that slides in pretty easy, the next size which I believe was .010 was a little too thick.vv
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OK, thanks, I'll check and let you know, don't know when because it storming over here.
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So here I go again, round 3 trying to reply--keep getting kick out. I wish I had your book 30 years ago when I first got my Jeep and was young. I have the Haynes and Chilton manuals that help a lot but I feel that they didn't go into detail on some subjects. I purchased 2 bottles of 10ml loctite, 638 and 641. I cut a strip of aluminum from a beer can and put it around the race and it fits snug, with 2 strips of aluminum it fits tight. The race goes in about a 1/8" to first ridge in housing without anything around it. I had a mechanic replace the seals about 20 or 25 years ago. He replaced the other seals but didn't realize that it had inner seals. I ended up taking it apart and replacing the inner seals. I put everything back the same way I took it apart and now know it wasn't put back together right. It had 2 shims inside the passenger side backing plate--1 fairly thick and 1 real thin. The drivers side had 2 fairly thick shims on the outside of the backing plate which is clearly wrong. I purchased a brake backing adapter kit that uses a dana 35 backing plate which allows you to remove the axles without taking the brakes apart. The kit is made by Parts by George and theres a youtube video of a guy installing the kit, I noticed that his bearing race on his passenger side fits loose like my race on my drivers side, that's why I have questions about fit tightness. All the bearing races that I ever seen fit tight in there housings. I'm going to contact SKF about the sleeve and let you know what I decide to do to hopefully fix my issue. I saw that loctite has a paste like retaining compound that fills in small gaps, but I'm not too sure how well that will hold up. Thanks again
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Thanks Moses: sorry for the late reply, but I think you answered my questions. Oh one more question--what do you think about skf speedie sleeves on the bearing race? I found one(99256) that would fit the measurements and is not very thick? If you think this is a option, I would definetly use the loctite retaining compound between race and sleeve and between sleeve and housing. What are your thoughts on sleeves? Thanks: Stacey
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Mr. Moses, I don't know if you still read or reply to these questions, but I have a couple about my amc20 axle shimming. I read just about everything I could find and still have a couple questions. I took everything apart to replace my oil seals on axle shafts. My first question is what is the purpose of installing shims on drivers side only or can the shims be installed on the passenger side only? The reason I'm asking this is because my bearing race on drivers side slides in housing real easy--no pressure needed and my bearing race on passenger side slides in only about a quarter inch before having to tap it in the rest of the way. My thinking is if I install shims on drivers side, it might allow the race to spin in tube and if I install the shims on passenger side the race fits tight enough that it won't spin. Any answer to these questions would be greatly appreciated because I'm so ready to finish this project. Thanks in advance.