RareCJ8
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Posts posted by RareCJ8
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The low hanging gas tank was replaced with a bed mounted cell. I like the looks and it's an emerging trend. I've seen smaller trailer tubs on toyotas, etc. down side? Single wall, so secure ur load.
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true, however I have run purly stock D44 (other than the gear set and ARB) over the roughest of trails (Fordyce, Rubicon, etc) with never an issue. I do not romp on it nor do i mistreat the axle, and in return it has blessed me with a safe drive home every time. Although 37s are about the limit...
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Sort of...use instead tub from perhaps a M101A2 or A3. I think it looks pretty rugged and cool. Getting the wheel wells to line up is a challenge but not much.
Like this:
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upon reflection and serious analysis, think will keep the D44 set up. the cost to do the swap, (even with a free D60) such as new gears, new ARB, bearings/seals, new diff cover, possible steering stuff, etc etc just does not pan out. Besides, the current install just plain works. Sure, there are many reasons to go to the D60 beef, but the cons outweigh the pros...for now. Still, a part of me says just take it and keep it in reserves for someday...
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Jp just did it and i've seen that on other sites. Basically ditch the bed from a truck and graft on the tub from a military trailer. the first one I saw was on a toyota hilux based in Australia and the trend is making its way to the US. Anyone see this?
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you might see performance gains in the bumps at speed. I also noticed a more fluid cycling of suspension in big rocks. another issue with SR is need of longer slip front drive shaft. Im on my 3rd iteration to find the sweet spot-- prevent bottoming out and not separating the two front pieces--- have had both happen couple times and not a fun experience.
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nice! i kept my factory gear set in the D300 because, otherwise, you get super low crawl or just 1:1 high range which is not much help. Instead, added a Klune-V under drive to add an entirely new range of gearing. Sometimes factory low is nice for general trail cruising above 15 MPH but when super low ranges are needed, i have several combinations.
edit: aah, there it is...
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as far as shackle reverse, Moses might better explain the pros and cons but i found it to greatly enhance the street manners (like that counts, haha) and trail handling. OEM set up has the front and rear springs working against each other. Getting them into the same cycle arc seems to make it more of a pleasure to drive and less harsh on components and passengers. It may be necessary to look into tire clearance at rear of front tire opening. MORE sells a cool 1" off set plate to move the front axle fwd (or backwards) to suit your needs.
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looks good. like the ratchet strap! i too added a twin stick kit to my D300-- the comprehensive kit from advance adapters. Low front is fun but beware of serious axle wrap. Too bad its not easy to get 4 high front only w/out dropping the rear driveline. Now get us some trail action shots...
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Am leaning toward this as problem:
NSBU switch
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/allisonnsbuswitch2001-2004.aspx
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Immediately thought limp mode, but that should offer R and 3rd gear. I had nothing. Hope to have someone check for T codes and see if that offers any clues...
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2001 2500HD 8.1L with Allison 1000. Warn M12000 winch with dual batteries. Assisted in the recovery of a jeep that rolled into a deep gully. Hard pulling and amp draw at about 10 degrees side hill-- near level. Truck in park and ebrake fully engaged. Hard pull really put load on system-- ran up RPMs to help recover some juice. At one point winch stopped working due to insufficient power. (Should have used the snatch block.) Winching force actually pulled truck sideways about 4'. While winching also stood on brake pedal and at times it was nearly all the way to floor.
Relevant fact: high RPM for about 10 minutes while tranny in Park and T case in 4 low. Ran up RPMs while winching so alternator could generate amps. Heavy amp draw ands stood on brake pedal (to hold position and not get pulled into the deep gully).
Eventually got him out and was time to go. Put truck into drive and....nothing. Reverse...nothing. Uh oh. Toggle between 4 low, 4 high and 2 high. Nothing. No sounds, no indication of anything moving. Now the rescue rig needs help. Another vehicle pulled me onto level ground and turned off engine. Let it sit for about 5 minutes pondering what to do so tried again. Upon start up, all is normal and drove home w/o issues.
Any explanation why/how a period of high RPM in park will neutralize the tranny? Or did the T-case go into a fit? since only a very slight side hill do not believe it was fluid starved.
Thanks,
Mark
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all valid points-- now why is it a GOOD idea?
--added beef
--stronger if I go to 40s (in the cards some day)
???
???
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My play toy is a Jeep CJ and daily driver is a Chevy 2500HD with many upgrades. It has the 8.1L V-8 and Alison combo. Plan is to sell it and get a newer Tacoma. Am just now learning some of the ins and outs for the Tacoma truck. But at $30k... yikes. Need to find an old lady that only drove her Tacoma to church...I get some 4x4 magazines from Australia, and Toyotas seem all the rage, as are nissans and landys...
Will watch this forum for more info.
mb
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I did a job for a guy i've known for a long time, he's offered me his D60 from a CUCV, u bolts, plates and already set up for high/cross over and mounts for ram assist, DOM tie-rod and draglink. The deeper i dig into the idea the more $$$ it gets: Will need to re-gear to 4:88, add an ARB locker; rebuild/bearing/seal kits; king pins he says are good. Then might as well go to chromo 35 spline outters with new warn hubs. Sheesh, on paper this is adding up fast.
Will take measurements soon, but hope the spring perches are same and no need to re-do the 'C's or adjust perches (i.e., same width). Maybe different brake lines. Will need a beefy front diff cover too. Looking at Crane, ARB and Dynatrac. Like the ARB for drain plug and magnetic dip stick. (but no tapered edge...)
While i'm a conservative driver, locked D44 on 37s is the limit. D60 will add weight over the 44, so i'm making engine work harder...A 60 will offer up some added performance buffer in the rocks...
Then try recoup some $ by selling the D44 with 4:88, ARB, Warn premiums, flat top cross over knuckles and rock hard diff cover...
tell me why this is a bad idea...
mb
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weight? no idea. maybe some day i can get to a CAT scales and find out. setting up the tent, awning, etc takes about 30 minutes to dial it all in. About the same to load up, although a bit faster.
Those winches are located at the Donner Road exit at west Truckee, CA. Last gas before going west over the summit. My bet is they were/are used to quickly install tire chains on vehicles in winter. lift rear bumper and sling away... And Its all nice and covered from the wx. VERY beefy design and each has a controller box near the pumps.
moses?
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i've dealt with broken/cracked frames, but bent, dunno. would imagine once it is straightened out, some plating/bracing is in order to reinforce the weak spot.
why not just run it as is? issues w/ early tire wear? this might be the death penalty for a vehicle and you will chase all sorts of issues compensating for the damage. might it be easier in the long run to sell it and start fresh?
good luck.
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With no scientific basis, i always prefer OEM rubber. Smoother ride, too.
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Thank you! Despite its appearance, not military. Started out as an unnamed canvas tent camper from the 70s. two sliding-out beds and a very small rear access hatch. When I acquired it 10 years, the axle was a toyota front end. the PO is a toyota guy and the trailer could then carry a spare front end, steering links, etc etc. for many years it was a trash/utility trailer.
Global plan was to sell the Venturecraft pop up and build this current trailer. the tent top is easily removed using pin/bushing assembly. it is completely coated in rhino lining to match jeep color.
I ditched all that in favor of a 3000# straight axle from a local supplier and added the 8 lug spindles. It wears 37" tires and H2 wheels to match jeep. It used to be single wall tub, but we skinned the interior with aluminum diamond plate to prevent exterior skin from dents, etc. Added the military-style hoops on the rear corners and also round LED lights.
the leaf springs are still toyota w/ factory hangers. Gabriel shocks and day star bump stops. True to its adopted roots, the tail gate is from a 70s era toyota hi lux.
the front tongue is a piece of receiver tube, so i can mix/match different hitch options, whether a Treg, pintle/lunette or pull it clean and insert a lock bar for theft prevention.
immediate plans are to add a battery/inverter box for on-board trailer power to run LED interior and exterior camp lights. Charge will come via the 7 round trailer power plug.
It trailers like a dream. a bit long and offers some challenges on tight trails. bed ID is 4'x7'. added numerous floor/interior and external gear tie downs. The interior tie downs keep gear from migrating about inside the tub.
For non tent camp options, the modular design allows installation of a 7' roof rack and up front a removable fuel tray-- holding 4 fuel/water cans and a 5 gal propane tank. An now using exclusively Scepter MFCs. No more rusty metal gas cans.
leaf spring R&R, etc.
And a trivia question: in the below pic, what is the purpose of the electric winches?
uses BAL style leveling jacks. got the HD option. Use a cordless impact gun and deploys these fast. Strong enough to lift both rear tires off ground.
detail of tent support structure.
before rhino coating, but in expedition mode
The tent itself was made in Australia and is far superior to the others we explored. Roomy, weather proof and easy to set up. It's the 'pup' model. they are now sold here by 3 dog camping USA.
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And here is the tent deployed!
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Here is my 81 CJ8 with tent trailer in tow. This combo gets used often and with great joy!
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all good info for sure. I'll add: using a relay to power certain electrical components is generally a good way to go. No full power coming thru firewall or melting switches. Helps isolate high power to engine bay.
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Once the emigrants cleared the NV deserts and hit the Warner Mountains, near present day Ft. Bidwell, they crossed over Fandango Pass, so named because they 'thought' they were home free and the early arrivals held a fandango, or party. West of there near Goose Lake is a split, north to Oregon or west and south to the Sacramento Valley. In any event they had a much more dangerous crossing yet to come-- The Miwok and Pit River native american tribes were very hostile. Some journals reveal more were killed between Warner mountains and Upper Feather River (aka Red Bluff) by hostile natives than all of the crossing of the plains. Between Alturas and Hat Creek was particularly dangerous.
Headed north into Oregon was not less dangerous. the Kalamath bands were equally fierce.
In the spirit of adventure, we're headed off to the black rock desert today for the w/e and enjoy the Persied meteor sky show-- dark skies = good viewing.
Where the pavement ends, adventure begins!
mark
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i buy red/black 0 or 00 ga welding wire in bulk. then cut to fit-- leaving always a few extra inches, invested in a special crimp tool for the terminal lugs then for good measure red/black shrink tube. Custom lengths are the way to go and as Moses mentions, one cannot have too many grounds. Remember body to frame, frame to engine block and redundancy is your friend. Nearly every electrical issue I have tracked down led to a poor ground. Clean the contact area with a wire brush on a drill clean it up well, add dilectric grease if need be, crank down with star washers then if so inclined, hit with some gloss black paint for a finished look.
Trailer tub as truck bed?
in Military Surplus M415, M416 and Other Off-Road Trailers
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my current pack mule trailer was single wall and was susceptible to and did suffer major dings from cargo sliting around in the bed, leaving ugly convex dings to exterior. when it underwent the recent transformation I skinned the tub interior with light weight aluminum sheets so no more worries. Do not have direct info on the posted pic project. Hauling large, loose items could potentially cause damage-- like axles, engine parts, big rocks, etc.
Despite that, i like the cool factor and offers up something different. I'd add a wooden hoop set to the tub to cover/enclose it in canvas.