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RareCJ8

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    H1 and Other Steering Box Choices for a Jeep CJ

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    i have all the beefy bracing in place from box to pass frame.  All guessed up.  Driver frame beefed up too.   Running the burgeon shaft from box to firewall, then rebuilt the entire tilt column.   The box does not leak and i have made from time to time slight adjustments on top using the allen head tool to take up some slack. Perhaps on borrowed time? 

    From what I can see mine has the 75 stamped in the case.  Sag 800?

    Model 800 4 bolt # 76 casting gear box claims a  13/16 x 36 spline input shaft. Supposedly AMC was using these on many CJ models throughout the 1980's.  The Hummer H1 has a 16/13:1 variable ratio gearing. almost identical to the OEM Jeep box at 17:1.    H1 has a larger piston for less effort with a faster turning ratio (variable 13 to 16-1 vs 17-1), with 13/16" input splines and metric fittings as original on Scrambler.  Research shows the H1 box is also 4 bolt with the 76 cast mark.

     

    The Variable gear --in the middle and faster out towards the edges.   Or stay constant all the way is the Q now.  

    dooming a rebuild is not for me.  I'd rather install a new box and keep the old for a spare.  

    next challenge is to find a replacement pitman arm.  (i like redundant spares) When this heep was originally cobbled together in 1999  we used (if i recall correctly) a GM firebird arm.  It is a bit longer than the OEM.  Sadly casting #s are too worn to read.  This longer arm was to accommodate the full size axles and cross over steering, etc.  

    other than sourcing a spare arm, i am at a crossroads.  just leave it be or replace with ? and have a spare.  i saw a guy locally that due to the tight clearances for the steering fluid lines added a coupler mid-way.  it is really tight in there.  At least on the YJs they moved it around for better access.  

     

     

    H1 and Other Steering Box Choices for a Jeep CJ

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    The power steering gear is the last frontier for my 81-- about everything else has been R&Rd.  With low gears, big tires and an ARB up front this OEM part may be on borrowed time.  Reading a hummer H1 box is a near exact drop in.  Cardone 1 part number.  27-7595, it's a bolt in for the stock CJ P.S. gear it has the larger piston for less effort with a faster turning.  This sounds like a mixed bag as for lock to lock ratios.  For me, fewer turns the better.  It has the right bolt holes and correct o ring couplings.

    I have done the drill out trick on the pump already.  Better performance at low RPM.  

    I see others that simply go with the napa generic unit.  rebuilt or new?  Agr?  Psc?  These are spendy.

    also note the access to CJ  box components, hoses, etc very tight.  I see some add a coupler mid line for easier servicing, etc.

    is there a suggested schedule to flush and fresh fill ps fluid?  Never thought about that.

    if a newish box, does it make sense to have it ported for eventual hydro assist?

    Thanks guys!

     

     

     

     

    E brake warning light

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    So the bottom of plunger goes to negative of light and switched fused hot to hot side of light.  Think i have it.  Was overthinking it.    Or i can just leave as is with a small battery and its all isolated from main system.  Found a perfect location for light near top of cab above sun visor.  No way to miss a red light there.

    E brake warning light

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    Tnx moses but im still perplexed.  First, there are no existing wires for this project.  Id like to use the cluster light but all that is present is a very short threaded stud at the bulb, unknown if its even there or functional.  Short as in about 1/8" or less.  Since have to wire up from scratch, may locate a different light somewhere else.  Not a problem

    The snag is how is this a switch?  What opens, closes the circuit?  This oem part is all electrically one piece.  Sure, there is the spring loaded plunger but that is not isolated From its housing.  In other words, once it is mounted to the ebrake assembly it is entirely grounded.  The pedal making contact with the plunger changes nothing.  Redundant.  Its hard to explain by typing.  Guess the question is what is the mechanism that activates the light?  I get that the ignition switch initially energizes the circuit but what action happens to allow light to come on?  

     

    I might mock up a short example using a 9 volt battery some test leads and a low voltage led bulb i have.   and a pic tells a 1000 words.  

    E brake warning light

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    This is the OEM switch.  Cost $$ me a lot to be authentic.  The plunger is not isolated, as per the ohm meter. Tested all sections, its all one piece.    Mounts to ground and appears only connection is when pedal assembly makes contact with the top of plunger.  Not clear where is the 'switch' so to speak.  This should not be so difficult.  image.thumb.jpeg.4cc5c7e6ce0d92917ece8d3f882f1216.jpeg

    E brake warning light

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

     Some wiring diagrams show the E break circuit going through the proportioning valve. My valve has no electrical connections. I was able to source the switch from a jeep graveyard  and it was not cheap.basically a spring loaded plunger.  It seems the circuit is complete anytime the E brake lever is in the retracted position. Light goes off.  Once the lever is engaged the switch no longer makes contact with the lever and the light should come on.   i'm considering abandoning the factory speedo cluster location and add a bright LED right at level eyesight.  Time permitting must replace pads and rebleed system the brake pedal now is very mushy. Costly mistake for a very short drive.   Im still confused how to wire it up.  

     

    image.jpeg

    Rough Trail Leads to Rough Idle and Sticky Starter Mode

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    Just back from a 5 day camp event and 4x4 poker run.  Odd experience:  when driving through a really long, relatively rough trail section-- nothing special just an endless road of water mellon size rocks, and at faster than a crawl felt like rig was running over heavy washboard.  the suspension usually absorbs these sort of terrain features.  Go to neutral  and coast, the bump bump stops.   Come to stop and rev RPMS and at idle or up to 1500 RPMs engine running VERY rough.  Sounds like a boat exhaust. bubbub bubbub, sputtering and running really rough.  Cycle RPMs up higher, back to idle and repeat couple times and then all is well and she runs like it should.

     

    the symptom reminds me of the carb days when it would load up off camber.  First Q is any comments or suggestions?   Can EFI get confused from relentless pounding?

     

    Fuel pressure was perfect.  no pressure in tank-- opened cap.    full tank of gas.  

     

     

    then to add to stress, all of a sudden when starting twist key forward and the screech of starter stays on,  manually dial back key to stop it.  its either a spring on starter spur or in the key lock assembly (which i completely rebuilt with new parts last  winter)

     

    SMH, its always something...  but this random rough running engine is a concern. 

    To Hi Lift Or Not?

    in Off-Topic and General Discussion

    Posted

    Valuable tool but has safety risks.  Its heavy and takes up a lot of room and must be properly secured.  And regularly serviced and maintained for reliable performance.    Yet solves many trail-related problems.

     

    So do you carry one?  All the time or occasionally?  Why yes, why no?  

     

    I was asked how often i have used mine on trail in last 10 years.  Answer is maybe 5 to 7 times.  All other times it just goes for the ride.  But those times when it was needed it was there and made a difference.  Would you risk leaving it home for a trail ride?  in the daily driver?

     

    Analogous to a spare tire.  How many flats have you had on trail?  But we carry a spare all the time.  

     

    Soliciting thoughts here.  My preference is to leave it on the jeep all the time.   In addition to the HL, also carry a mechanical bottle jack secured in an OEM mount under driver seat.

    Buy a New 4x4 or Restore an Older One?

    in Off-Topic and General Discussion

    Posted

    quality info moses, thanks.  i still regret selling my low mile 1968 merc cougar.  and for $700!  argh.

     

     

    the old/new divide is interesting.   i've always liked the willys rat rods.  Or   last year at hot august nights was an old 30s ford truck  truck but closer look revealed under the tub is a dodge CTD.  they took a wrecked dodge truck, stripped the sheetmetal, shortened the frame and grafted on an old truck body.  might be interesting to see how its titled.  but this was a long haul road worthy diesel truck that looks like it came right out of bonnie and clyde.  best part, all the metal was left as the rusted, patina as found.  sorry, no pix

     

     

    now, back to the CJ projects-- prepping for the black rock next week     beer break over

    My 42 GPW

    in Vintage Jeep® Vehicles 1941-71

    Posted

    Note the matching old timer plates... She was fun, but a lot of work. Wheel bearings and 6 volt electrical were troublesome. And the flathead 4 was gutless on pavement. Know why it seats 4? When cresting a hill climb, the 3 passengers can hop out to help push it up the last section. Lol.

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