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mjeep01

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About mjeep01

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  1. One question...the seller was indicating I should be using 10w30 instead of 75w90 (specified in the FSM). I've read other posts where 10w30 has been used but wanted your opinion. Regardless of which oil, the transmission should not be making any tapping noise if rotating by hand right? Thanks.
  2. Ok...figured out the stiff clutch pedal. Bad master/slave cylinder. I replaced it and now have a functioning clutch pedal! Now for the bad news. After reinstalling the transmission (lost count how many times I did this...4, 5 times I'm guessing), I tried to fire up the engine...nada. I did some research and found a way to bypass the clutch interlock switch (had to disconnect the switch harness and connect the end of the harness that was not connected to the switch to another harness located nearby) and the engine fired up. On a side note, I tested the clutch interlock switch for continuity and it tested good but I will address that later. Once the engine was running with the clutch pedal depressed, it sounded good until I released the clutch...tap tap tap tap. I replaced the throw out beforehand but that made no difference. I pulled the transmission out again and started monkeying around by moving stuff in the transmission bell housing area. I discovered that the transmission was making the tapping sound when I rotated the input shaft by hand. The noise was muted as I was turning the input shaft by hand instead of the clutch/flywheel turning it but it sounded the same. I suspect that when the clutch pedal is depressed, the transmisison input shaft isn't turning because the clutch disc is detached from the flywheel but as soon as I let my foot off the clutch pedal, the clutch presses against the flywheel with turns the clutch and the input shaft of the transmission, making the tapping noise. I am now currently in contact with the seller of the transmisison for a refund/replacement. I'll post follow ups as I get them. Thanks for you assistance.
  3. Yep. The bearing appears to slide in / out without binding. The sleeve appears smooth as well as the inside of the bearing. the clutch assembly fingers appear uniform, parallel and undamaged. I think if I get this master/slave cylinder issue resolved, I may be home free (wishful thinking). I still don't know if the master/slave hydraulic system is good or not. I'm leaning towards not based on my description earlier in the thread but I wanted to see if anyone could confirm that or tell me if there is some other method of verifying it's bad before I go out and spend some money on replacing it. Thanks again for responding.
  4. Update ***. I manually bled the slave cylinder by pointing the piston down and pushing the rod in about 20 times. No air bubbles were detected in the clutch master cylinder. I then pressed the clutch pedal and it went all the way to the floor once and came back up. I then tried to press the clutch pedal again and it was stiff again. Did this twice. Thinking it might be the hydraulic system. Anything else it might be?
  5. Hi, thanks for replying. The transmission was from a 1998 Wrangler TJ I got from a private party. I've attached how the bearing / fork is put on the transmission input shaft. Let me know if it appears ok or not. The retaining clips are intact. I did not replace the bearing as the old one appeared ok. I've attached some photos Thanks.
  6. Hi, Just swapped out my AX15 transmission on my 97 Jeep Wrangler. After I completed the job, with the engine off, I was able to shift through the gears without issue. I pressed the clutch pedal and it was easy the first few times then became extremely stiff. I removed the external slave cylinder from the bell housing and manually pushed in the clutch fork with my finger. The fork moved forward easily, then I heard something fall inside the bell housing. I pulled the tranny back off and found the clutch fork retaining clip had fallen off. I proceeded to put it back in place ensuring it was secured. After attaching the tranny back on, I tested the clutch pedal which appeared to operate normally (engine off) as well as ensuring I could shift through the gears without issue. I then continued with attaching the rest of the harnesses, transfer case, etc.. I fired up the engine and heard a knocking sound which appeared to be coming from the external slave cylinder area. As I depressed the clutch, the knocking stopped. I turned off the engine, removed the slave cylinder and had my wife press on the clutch pedal. It became stiff again. I pulled the transmission again and the clutch fork retaining clip was still secured. This is where I have left off for the night. I plan on bleeding the master / slave cylinder system tomorrow and see if that fixes the issue with the stiff clutch pedal. Some questions: 1) How far should I be able to press in the clutch fork manually with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 2) Should the clutch fork return after being depressed manually (like a spring) with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing (mine didn't. After pressing on the clutch fork, it remained in the position I had pushed it to). 2) Should the clutch pedal move freely with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing? 3) Could it be the throw-out bearing? It appears to be ok from visual inspection, it slides along the transmission shaft easily, the springs are all intact. Any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
  7. Hi, thanks for the quick reply. The clutch was installed about 2 years ago but I did recheck the bolts and they appeared tight. My Jeep has around 215k miles on it. Would I need to do a full rebuild? I was hoping it was either a gear fork or possibly one of springs or balls that broke or got worn off. If I have the transmission already off I was thinking maybe it's a good idea to do a full rebuild myself. I looked at the trailer and I think I will rent the video just to be on the safe side. Can you recommend a good rebuild kit? Would the rebuild kit solve my issue or you think I would need other parts? Also, is it necessary to have a hydraulic press to remove the bearings or is there some other method? Thanks again for answering. J
  8. Hi all, hope someone can help with this question. My apologies if it's been answered. I did try to find a topic for this but was unable to. My 1997 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 has been popping out of 1st gear consistently lately. I'm wondering what the issue is, I removed the inner boot as some have said it might be the inner boot (mine's stock - no lift - but I wanted to check this out anyway). No luck. Also, is the fix something a weekend mechanic can do(I'm fairly competent in this respect but never have worked on fixing a transmission although I've replaced the clutch a couple of years ago). I've been thinking about rebuilding the transmission so that's how I came about this forum. Thanks in advance. Here is a link to the exact same issue I have posted on youtube ( ) J
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