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Everything posted by Megatron

  1. Whats up?? For the record I haven't forgot about anyone, just been busy with other projects. As you can tell we have decided to go just a bit further (like most build do) and clean the frame up and fix a few rust spots. Easier and cheaper now than it would be after its all back together. Got some new parts and products to try out so we should be getting a few more updates on the build.
  2. Hey Moses, To answer your question about the 6.0 versus the 6.4. Well its complicated. To me the 6.4 did improve on a few key things that plagued the 6.0, but they also made some changes in the natural evolution of design that fixed a few others. The big change was leaving behind the old HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) system that drove the injectors. That has been replaced with a more common HPFP system and matching injectors. Other changes include bigger head bolt sizes to address head gasket failures and a revised EGR cooler system. i think the biggest change was to the addition of .4 liters to displacement so they could change the name from 6.0 to 6.4 and win the hearts and minds of the consumers that they were no longer getting the 6.0.. Even though they were still getting a band-aid version if you will. To be honest the 6.0 is a good motor with a few things replaced. I do understand that's not what you want to do when you just paid 60K for a brand new truck, and for that it will always be down on the list of peoples choice. But for entry level diesel guys, a 6.0 that has been purged of all its gremlins is a dang good truck. Now the 6.4 guys don't have as much to fix but they still have a few issues to address. I think you will get more for your money shopping for a 6.0 given you take into consideration what they guy before spent to replace head gaskets, egr's and FICM's.
  3. Hey guys/gals, Im thinking about buying one of these setups for my personal shop. Anybody have any input or experience with them? https://weldtables.com/ Looks like an awesome DIY table for a respectable price. Plus room to grow should thing need to go bigger.. like they always do lol. Let me know what you all think.. This table is the exact one i am looking at. https://weldtables.com/products/certiflat-fb3642-fabblock-u-weld-kit-modular-welding-table
  4. How about some custom parts?? Sure why not lol. This is the additional HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump) and bracket. This was a fitment run and there were a couple holes that didn't line up all that well... or at all. But that's why you mock it up before paint or powder coating. The second pump takes up real estate where (i believe to be) a second alternator would go for an ambulance application of this motor?? Could be wrong but i think that's accurate, Anyone?? The pump comes with some idlers, pulleys and a separate belt to be driven off of the crank. Pictures on that later. O and check out that snazzy new alternator..
  5. Lets get all those fuel lines in place shall we?? The book says torque to value X, then rotate 60 degrees or one flat of the nut.. I did the paint pen marks to make a visual confirmation. After that, add the wiring harness. O, the fuel rails are specific to the side they go on so be aware of that. This will also depict what side each injector harness goes on. Only real difference is one side has the fuel rail pressure sensor and the other does not. We choose new harness given their location in the motor. Don't really want to be in here 6 months from now with a misfire issue
  6. What say ye about some fuel rails and injectors?? I say we put them on and get a little closer to completion.. Fuel rails have been ported a little and injectors are new, but larger than factory. The bodies are designed to flow better and the major modification is the hole size in the tip. This allows for more fuel flow per injector event thus equaling more power and more smiles.. Anytime you mess with the injector lines on a diesel engine it is highly recommended you replace the injector supply lines/tubes as well. That we did gents.. Plus new o-rings and injector washers. Its not worth the risk to use the old stuff and have leaks.
  7. Moving on.. Or not.. Lets get those marvels of engineering installed on our high dollar engine shall we?? New rocker stands came with the new rockers. They fit like factory because they were lol. Rocker sequence is nothing out of the ordinary. Rotate the engine to the desired spot and install the rocker set per the book, rotate and repeat until all 8 sets are in. I would recommend some high pressure start up protecting under the valve bridge caps, push rod cups and valve tips where they contact the bridges themselves. IT may be a minute after startup before these parts get proper lubrication.
  8. Well on to one of my least favorite parts on this motor.. the factory rocker arm assemblies.. ugg.... Not sure who was on R&D over at camp International for Ford development, but man you need to dream a little bigger.. To me this is a part built by the budget department not the engine department. I could go on and on but for the sake of my blood pressure I will move on.. blahhhh, ok last time. Well either way nothing is current available on the aftermarket scene to replace these in the 6.4. We did reach out to the few we could fins that build them for the 6.0, but as of now they had not gone any further than prototyping a set. They claimed maybe early next year so we can hope lol. Well since I cant leave them out of the motor I guess I better assemble them the best way I can think. I broke out my trusty Cleveite assembly lubricant and coated all the moving parts. This will at least get them through start up and break in.. luck will get them through the rest of their life lol.. For the trained eye reader, yes I had to reuse one of the yellow plastic retainer clips as one of the new black clips was damaged in the factory packaging. No big deal, its still probably stronger than the rest of the rocker hahaha.. ok really that was the last one lol. On a side note, make sure extra lube is added to the rocker tip itself. On the old ones many of these had failed on this motor at only 100K + miles. Not impressive at all. there is a tiny pin hole in the rocker that allows some oil to drain down and lubricate the back of this socket... something tells me it fails to do so on a quality basis..
  9. Next, but temporarily, was the BD 6.0 exhaust manifolds. We are planning to have these thermally coated since any type of wrap wouldn't be possible. Mainly because of the design. Now if you skipped all of the first post, and you are just a picture surfer, you may notice I said 6.0 and not 6.4. That's correct. Its widely accepted that the 6.0 was a bit better in design due to the elbow at the back of the block being part of the cast material. On the 6,4 this was part of the up tube and was made of thin wall tubing that's know to fail over time. Given the 6.4 and the 6.0 or basically the same motor, with revisions, this swap is possible with no modifications to any factory parts.
  10. Well since I am here I guess I can add a couple things. First up was the install of the new mean green starter. Um not much do indulge on other than the fact it is an awesome looking piece. It has more cranking torque than the factory one. It is more compact, but for this build that doesn't really come into play. Just a feature if you will.
  11. Hey TC_01 thanks for the reply. Um ya as far as the camera, its just the one on my Samsung Galaxy S6 lol. The trick is to clean the grease smudges off of the lens before you take the picture lol. Once the engine is complete and ready for install, I plan to have a friend capture some true quality pictures photo shoot style. Also, the pictures I post on here have been reduced a considerable amount to make the page requirements. I have some new stuff to update, but we are currently waiting on a few pieces to finish the mock up stage of the turbo system. Once that is done it should move along a lot faster.
  12. Ok, back to the grind.. On deck were the new Hamilton Cams Push rods. Zack Hamilton is an awesome guy and has always helped me when it comes to making the right decisions on valve train parts. Very few company owners will take the time to address your issues and point you to the right product. Most just want you to buy the biggest baddest most expensive thing they sell, not Zack. Now I know he is busy so your results may very, but he got us squared away with the right stuff and we are impressed with the quality. They are stronger than stock but they aren't the biggest on the market. They are right for our application and that's what we want. Install is a bit challenging. The internet said you had to stand 20' away from the engine and then toss them like throwing darts while getting them to land in the block and hope they seat on the lifter.. Luckily I used my service manual instead and saved myself some heartache. LOL I know the book says engine oil, but with new metal to metal parts I prefer I high pressure assemble lubricant. I doubt anybody would disagree with that. If it was the same part going back in that came out oil would be fine given that's what they operate in, given a completely dry motor, I choose extra protection.
  13. Okay to clarify a few things about working on this engine. No I'm not an expert but I can read. Attached is a picture of the service manuals that pertain to this specific vehicle. If you ever plan to take an engine this far apart and you don't already know all the specs, I highly advise you invest in these. Nothing against the manuals they sell at the local parts store, just remember those are geared towards basic maintenance issues encountered for the average owner. They are not going to cover in detail what these books do. So while I don't post what I torqued this or that to, or what specific tool I used to install a seal, I did however look it up and do it per the book or better. These are the same books at the dealership (well now I assume they are all e-file at most shops). The knowledge and how to within the covers is immense and should be read and understood before assuming what you read on the interweb is the right. Understand that this book does not cover any aftermarket items you will be installing, but it will help on a build like this and all the stock part you retain. I mean just properly tightening the injector tubes between the injector to the fuel rail is a full page of how to, get it wrong and you can ruin the motor..
  14. Brown chicken brown cow... Would you look at that.. just look at it lol I will let you scroll in peace and pick up with the commentary on the next post.. Enjoy..
  15. Well if you are actually reading this, and not just looking at the pictures, you would remember me saying the turbos came in a while back ago and I would post some pictures. Fine... I will post some pictures of the turbos to help us get through the boring assembly stuff. Okay first up was the stocker stuff incase you wondered what the brain trust at ford did for a compound setup. Compact and effective and I'm sure cost friendly. Worked as intended from a factory standpoint. Design issues in my opinion, oil drain tube for high pressure is sketchy and is know for leaking if not assembled perfectly. Not very impressed with the clamp down style mounting design, and not big on the mating interface between to two turbos. I'm not an engineer and I know they don't care about my opinion. Do any of these things make it faulty?? Not really, just thought we would see something better for the high dollar engineers and budget at Ford.. Moving on.
  16. Boring stuff, new O-rings under the valve cover stands.. Basically make sure they aren't twisted anywhere and they are firmly pressed into the valley. Assuming you cleaned the valley out already and all is good. Bolt up and tighten to spec.
  17. Moses, Couldn't agree more and for this build we have a full billet transmission form Suncoast. Billet triple disk converter and the billet flex plate from EDE. I will be adding full detail pictures of that later. Same with the brakes, they are 6 piston upgrades from SSBC (Stainless Steel Brake Company). There should be a couple pictures of these back earlier in this post.
  18. Hey TxWolf53, Anytime you have oil in the coolant you have an issue. Do you have any coolant in your oil? If so you really need to stop using the vehicle until repairs can be made. It most likely is a blown head gasket, but continuing to operate it could lead to further damage. You could crack the heads thus adding more expense to your rebuild. Also, with coolant in the oil, you could be damaging the bearings and hard parts in the bottom end of the motor adding more cost to the rebuild. Cost for repair will vary depending your location and the extent of the damage. Depending on your plan for the vehicle, a full replacement engine may be the best bet for you. IT will have the least amount of downtime and it will have a much better warranty than just having a local shop fix your problem. Plus we don't know the mileage of your current motor. I would assume north of 200K if I was guessing.
  19. Bullet Proof Diesel rocks.. Once again, machining is above top notch. They address problem parts within the factory set up and give you replacements. Their instruction booklet was better than any book I own in my house. They even went through the trouble of layering all the supplied hard ware in a bag so each phase of the process is represented by the next bag of parts in the chain... Attention to detail military style right there. In the picture you can see how they have addressed one of the factory oil bypass piston and seal (on the right) with a properly designed one on the left. Their design gives full support on the oil bypass seal to ensure it seats properly and for the life of the part. Its the little stuff that impresses me the most. If they are willing to address a couple millimeters of a seal seat, that means they are going to address everything they do to perfection. Well done gents... well done. Later on I will post the rest of the kit so you can see what we have. But in a nut shell it is a remote oil filter and air to oil cooler. its worth reading on to see lol..
  20. Now for those with the trained eye, or psychic ability, would know there are some parts missing from the upper oil cooler.. Well bam, remote oil cooler by Bullet Proof Diesel.. Holla..
  21. Okay now for some more boring parts. Stock turbo pedestal with new O-ring, new oil cooler (never ever reuse one... ever), it has new upper and lower O-rings. Original oil cooler lid with a slight modification.. That's right. I said modification... Cant tell what it is?? Better scroll down to my next post..
  22. So where were we at. o that's right. Time for the harmonic balancer. For this build we went the way of the ATI Super Damper. Pretty nice setup and well built. Install on the 6.4 is pretty simple since it is a bolt on style not a press on like other engines. Install is strait forward with the exception of alignment of the three pieces. It only truly fits together one way, just slow down and do it right. It has previsions for all the factory belts. I have never ran an ATI product so I cant give you any details about performance. After seeing how it works, and inspecting its construction, I now know why people use them lol. I think we will be very pleased.
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