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TxWolf53

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About TxWolf53

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  1. Got tired of fighting it and sold it for $1,500.00. Figure the $3,500.00 I paid for it plus all I put into it I lost about $3,000.00 on it. Live and learn just wish learning wasn't so expensive.
  2. Also putting in a new oil cooler from what I have read in the posting that is the source of the oil in my coolant but no coolant in my oil. I know I have drain the coolant to do that but do I need to drain the oil or just remove the filter? I intend to flush it before the I do the head job add change the oil afterwards.
  3. The shop checked it and said they thought block was OK but without taking the heads off couldn't know if it was a blown head gasket or a cracked head. They were going to charge $2,300.00 in labor just for taking it apart. So going to do it myself and get the heads rebuilt if not cracked. It is sad when have spent $400.00 already and haven't even removed anything yet. $122.00 for upper gasket set, $142.00 for lifters (not taking any chances) and $147.00 for oil, filters, oil cooler seals/gaskets and assorted items.
  4. Taking to a highly recommend diesel engine shop tomorrow. Got quotes from the local Ford dealership (get employee price plus 10%) on rebuilt heads and head bolts and on a long block. Heads/bolts about $1,450.00 after cores returned and long block about $4,700.00 after core returned. No idea what the labor would be. Might be able to do the heads install myself but trying the long block using a engine hoist on grass and dirt not so great.
  5. This is a 1994 F350 7.3L 2wd quad cab dually turbo. I am used to seeing black smoke when I start the truck now seeing white smoke and there is once again oil in the radiator. I had flushed the radiator before but oil is once again there and in the overflow tank also. Been told could be a blown head gasket. Not sure what that would cost to repair beside getting the radiator cleaned out properly. Not sure what the cost of a rebuilt engine versus the repair would be.
  6. May have spoke too soon on the shifting. At 65 and up acts like it drops out of gear and rpm jumps to 3,000 or higher before it goes back into 4th. Had the rear-end checked. Some metal shaving but otherwise no problems. Tone ring seems fine. They cleaned it out, refilled it and resealed the cover $150.00 (ouch) I brought in the gear oil and the black RTV. Is a 10:25 4:10 not a limited slip. ABS light still on . Would the trailer braking unit possibly cause the ABS to not work? Tried to get it inspection-ed and they said the rear passenger wheels were locking up. Took it apart and blew out a ton of brake dust and cleaned the area. Still plenty of material left and nothing appears to be broken or leaking.
  7. The TPS seems to helped. It is shifting smoothly and no weird multiple up and down shifting. Wish that had taken care of the cruise control. Still drops out in about 5 seconds and a cladding noise from the cruise control on the firewall and the ABS light has been on since I bought it. Did change out the VSS and the connector. Will get the rear-end fluid changed this weekend to see if there is any crud in it and what the tone ring looks like. I topped off the main fuel tank and will see if the TPS change out helps the mileage. Still need to find out where that fuel smell is coming from. I had seen the spicer https://www.gearvendors.com/f2wd4s.html before but at around $3,000.00 not quite ready to spend that yet, maybe later. The 2,500 rpm was on the toil road at 80 mph. It is closer to 2,000 at 60 mph.
  8. I got a OBD1 from Innova that supposed to have all the Bells and Whistles. It gave me a code for the TPS saying the lever was out of position. I got a TPS from Advanced Auto Parts for $21.64 with taxes (helps working in that industry). Just put it on and will see if that helps. Going to change out the connector also could be in better shape. Only thing that worries me is I read in another forum how to test it using a voltage Gage. Said to turn on the key without starting it and check for 5 volts on position A org/wht wire. B blk/whit wire is ground and C should have 1.2 volts with throttle closed and 4 to 4.5 volt throttle wide open. I am getting .02 to .04 volts on A and 4.98 volts no mater where the throttle is. Hard enough to get to the screws on the TPS but without removing the whole air cleaner area can not even get inner screw on the bracket to loosen it up to turn it As far as fuel mileage I am getting at best 9.5 mpg on the highway. There are a bit over 177,500 miles on it. The prior owners used it in a Custom home building company dragging a 7,000 lb Bobcat around using a goose-neck trailer. Highway speeds it is turning about 2,500 rpms.
  9. Just bought my 1994 F350 quad cab dually with a 7.3 diesel and E4OD. Most of the time it shifts fine but at times 1st to 2nd hits hard, 2nd to 3rd shifts up and then shift back down several times and in overdrive at 50 to 80 mph will drop back to 3rd acting like it is slipping. The cruise control engages for about 2 seconds. The overdrive light use to flash on and off at slow speeds or at a stop. Changed out the RPM sensor since it was bad which fixed that problem. It had bare wires for about 3/4" above the screw in plug. Was told that was from oil being on them for a long period of time. Any ideas why the weird shifting. Just wondering what the miles per gallon should be. 4:10 rear end.
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