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JohnF

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Posts posted by JohnF

  1. Moses,

     

    I am back from vacation and back at it. Unfortunately I had a mishap on the front bearing cap.

    When removing the front main-bearing seal. Behind the front main bearing seal is a support ledge for the bearing to set against. I got that ledge instead of the seal and break it off

     

    Below is cap before

     

    2014-02-16170119.jpg

     

    Below is after showing broken support ledge

     

    2014-02-19174047.jpg

     

    Is this a " structual " part ? Do I need to get a new cap? There is still enough of the broken ledge attached where I can slip the broken ledge back in and it will stay behind new seal.

     

    JF

  2. Moses

     

    As far as the soda blasting, I have a local blaster that comes right to my house and does it. Used him for the truck restore. Welding I have a gas less mig welder using flux core wire which can be challenging on thin metal due to the higher heat. I would like your opinion on using panel adhesive rather than welding ? as new cars are mostly put together this way now.

     

    I will post every step when I do the tub but right now the focus will be to get the chassis ready.

  3. Moses

     

    My plan is to put the tub on a rotisserie, then i will basically cut everything out leaving just the sides and cowl. I will then have it soda blasted which removes the paint and does not damage metal. I will then purchase and weld in the repair panels. Fix quarter panel areas with fresh steel, Entire rear floor with supports, entire front floor area and riser and two new wheel wells. I will cut out the tool box area on the front cowl as the 67 did not have this, and patch the hole. I feel I can salvage original tool box under passenger seat. I feel I can do all this for around $ 1,500.00 which is a lot cheaper than an aftermarket tub and I will have a blast doing it so the time factor is a non issue. Thats the plan anyway, I want to keep it as OEM as I can.

  4. Moses

     

    As much as it pains me to take this jeep apart as you know I am currently doing a restoration on my 67 which I need a tub for. So I went into this just trying to get a tub that I can repair for mine. I cant take on another restoration right now so I need to stick with the plan. Since the motor is missing for this 55 I decided to make it a donor Jeep. I am going to try to sell the rolling chassis before parting out, I am asking $ 1,000.00 obo it has the T-90 transmission, Dana 18 transfer case, and whatever else you see in photos. It is a very solid frame, no cracks where the spring supports are. Some rust damage to one of the cross members on rear of frame. I am going to attempt to cut the entire floors out and put in aftermarket floors to save the tub. Passenger side rear wheel is a split rim that I am replacing with a standard rim before sale

     

     

    2014-02-02143032.jpg

    2014-02-02143043.jpg

    2014-02-02143058.jpg

    only damage I see

    2014-02-02143107.jpg

    2014-02-02143113.jpg

    2014-02-02143123.jpg

    2014-02-02143129.jpg

  5. Just picked up this 55 CJ5 minus motor for next to nothing. Going to build a rotisserie and try to rescue the tub for my 67 restoration. Going to be a challenge but hate the thought of an aftermarket tub. Everything else is for sale. Just not sure what anything is worth yet.

     

    hood

    fenders

    two grills

    tailgate

    t-90 transmission

    dana 18 transfer case

    bell housing for F head

    two oil pans 

    heater box

    air cleaner

    windshield frame ( rough )

    axles

    frame

    rear draw bar

     

    2014-02-01120859.jpg

     

    2014-02-01120910.jpg

     

    2014-02-01161856.jpg

     

    2014-02-01161907.jpg

     

    post-28-0-23066800-1391352311_thumb.jpg

  6. Some build up

     

    IMAG0335.jpg

     

    IMAG0334.jpg

     

    I stamped all parts with a metal stamp so if I reuse I know where they go but I am leaning towards a master rebuild kit which includes new pistons

     

    IMAG0348.jpg

    IMAG0333.jpg

     

    IMAG0349.jpg

    IMAG0351.jpg

    IMAG0353.jpg

     

     

    This is the only damage I found, It's on the cam where the fuel pump rides on it. Not sure why this happened but I am sure this is the "slapping" sound I remember hearing last time I heard it run.

     

    2013-12-09101532.jpg

    2013-12-09101606.jpg

     

    Moses,

     

    feel free to jump in with advice and direction :-) if you see something wrong let me know. I plan on having the heads done in a machine shop, also getting the block cleaned and checked and new cam bearings installed. The rest I want to do.

  7. That makes sense Moses, I did remove the E brake and yoke first but did not remove the input shaft yoke. When I did the intermediate gear slid right out. Glad that is cleared up. I was worried about that for the reassembly. Thank you for the manual download that will come in handy.

     

     

    Soaked some parts in Simple Green degreaser overnight

     

    2014-01-20164508.jpg

     

    Cleaned them up and sprayed with WD 40 to prevent rust

     

    2014-01-20171716.jpg

     

    Kind of weird ! the Simple Green turned some of the parts black, don't know what that's about

     

    2014-01-20171727.jpg

     

    Parts are coming this week, sandblasting and painting the case this weekend.

  8. Moses,

    moving the gear was not the issue, it moved freely. What happened is when I went to lift the gear out there was not enough clearance between the input shaft gear and the case for the larger gear to come out. I know its something I am missing because I see you do it in your book and others on the internet. If you look at the 1st photo of the tc the gear was hitting the very top (narrow part ) of the case.

    John

  9. While waiting for the transmission parts to come in I disassembled the Transfer case. It went pretty easy. The only issue I had was when I removed the intermediate shaft I could not remove the intermediate gear as the book says I could. I had to wait until I slid the main shaft back a bit to remove the gear. The intermediate gear hit the side of the case. Not sure what I did wrong . I tried it in every gear.

     

    2014-01-12160028.jpg

    2014-01-19101836.jpg

    2014-01-19101848.jpg

    2014-01-19145126.jpg

    2014-01-19145216.jpg

    2014-01-19145220.jpg

  10. Thank's Moses for the info. The photo below shows the first/reverse sliding gear I purchased 

     

    _3.jpg

     

    All the other gears look pretty good, to me anyway

     

    2013-12-29143101.jpg

     

    I also purchased a reverse idler gear kit and found front and rear nos bearings which i purchased. Going to have to wait a bit for funds to get the cluster gear. Do you recommend just replacing the bronze syncro gears or finding a complete nos set ? If my memory serves me correct, there were no shifting issues.

     

    Thanks again

     

     

    Blasted

    2014-01-12114911.jpg

     

    And painted

    2014-01-12123006.jpg

  11. Oh, boy, not a CJ-3B!  They still get my attention, in my view the most attractive 80-inch wheelbase flatfender Jeep! Though I built an 81-inch wheelbase '55 CJ-5 for my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71, the CJ-3B would have been my preference...I opted for the more "familiar" CJ-5 look.

     

    Light, sleek and, if you like it, and I do, a tall hood to fit an F-head or any practical swap engine, the CJ-3B was built to '64—and for good reason. In my Jeep Owner's Bible, I share a photo of a late-'fifties/early 'sixties Jeep dealership with a new CJ-3B parked alongside the CJ-5/6 models, the Willys style pickup and wagon, plus an FC, each with its following...

     

    Make sure the cinnamon rolls leave a lasting impression, Rocket Doctor! 

     

    Moses

    Love love love the 3B ! looks like a Jeep with an attitude problem :-)

  12. So I am in the process of a total restoration on my 67 CJ5 v6 225 and have reached the transmission rebuild. I found a damaged first/reverse sliding gear and cluster gear. Question is should I pay the high cost of the t86 gears

    ( cluster $ 220.00 / first gear $ 125.00 ) or do I find t-90 parts and convert it? The first gear is almost impossible to find, I only found one after a week of searching.

     

    I would have to find used T-90 parts to make it cost effective but then there are no guarantees I will spend less to convert than to just get the t-86 parts. I do not plan on abusing the jeep off road when done.  Also can I get away with grinding the teeth of the first sliding gear ( bottom photo ) a bit to dress them up rather than replacing ? The other side of gear not shown is good. Thoughts ?

     

    Damaged parts:

     

     

    2013-12-29154931.jpg

     

     

    2013-12-29155433.jpg

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