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About waxman

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  1. @Moses Ludel Thanks for the reply. I must have watched that video literally 30 times, to wrap my head around everything. I'm relieved to hear that you concur with the way I have it set up. I'm still knocking on wood, as that is my general paranoid nature. ha. Thank you again for the vast amount of time you spent on this with me! Seriously! It's very much appreciated. Gary
  2. @Moses Ludel You are correct in that the bearing is flipped with the bearing's smaller tapered end facing the differential. I read through your last post multiple times to be sure I understood your concern. If I understand you correctly, the concern is that because the bearing is flipped opposite the OEM settings, the "bearing's inner race/collar to wear against the face of the seal retainer plate." From what I can tell, there is only one direction in which the bearing can be installed, due to the fact that the bearing race is installed on the housing and not the shaft. Since the tapered end of the bearing can only fit into it's race one way, and the race is already installed on the housing, the small end of the bearing HAS to face the differential. If I were to flip the race 180 degrees and place it in the housing, the beveled side of the race(which receives the bearing) would be facing the differential. then there would be no way the bearing could enter it's race. The only way I see that the bearing and race COULD be flipped, would be to make sure the bearing's outer race was on the bearing as it was pressed onto the axle. Then I would have to try to get the race to fit in the axle housing while it was on the axle. That would be a very tough thing to do because of the precise fit of the race into the housing. It was hard enough to get the outer race to fit in the housing by itself, so I could measure. Having it attached to the assembled axle would not only be really tough,but would not be congruent with the instructions. hmmm. I don't know Tenfactory's intentions regarding what component is putting pressure on the bearing. Is it intentional to have the bearing's inner race/collar to wear against the face of the seal retainer plate? Or maybe the inner race/collar is meant to remain stationary, while the bearing rotates? Not sure. I attached Morris' instructions for their one-piece axle kit. To me, It seems the same as Tenfactory's. But I'm the first to admit that the newness of this is quite a steep learning curve. So I could be wrong. I appreciate your willingness to discuss this. As we progress through this conversation, I'm kind of in the mindset of "let's see what happens". As for now, it is running great, and much smoother than before. If it does end up failing due to the things we're discussing, I will disassemble and re-evaluate. At that point, I will take video and pictures of EVERYTHING as to help this forum. Thanks, Gary Morris.pdf
  3. @Moses Ludel Your reference to the Morris configuration is accurate. TenFactory has the same layout. I have everything reassembled now and it runs great. Actually a much smoother ride. (My old bearings were on their last legs). Now it's a matter of hoping everything is how it should be. I'll find out soon enough if things are fine, or the bearings fry and back to step 1. Knock on wood!!! I will post my results here. Thanks again for taking the time and effort to help me. It's been so very helpful!!! Gary
  4. @Moses Ludel Thanks for your reply. I've attached the instructions and a screen shot of the parts included in the kit. The info. from the tech regarding measuring the bearing, as opposed to the race, was obtained well after you and I began our conversation. But you are correct, that was the important missing piece. Although the bearing came pre-greased, I did heavily pack it more. and I added extra grease in the housing bore where the race and spacer sit. You are correct, the differential fluid does not reach the bearing, because of the seal. So again, the bearing needs to have plenty of it's own grease. To your mention of " you need to be clear whether the kit manufacturer expects these bearings to run under a slight preload with no end play and no bind", THAT is the perfect question I need to ask them. Knowing that would give the final piece to the puzzle. Should it have pre-load, or no? Thank you for providing a way to test whether or not it is binding. Based on what you said, I think I may have to go in and sand down the spacer a bit. When the back plate bolts were looser, the hub rotated more freely. As I tightened the bolts down, it became increasingly harder to rotate the hub. I'll have to sand until I find that "sweet spot". Before I do anything though, I will ask them about the pre-load. Maybe they do want it tighter. This has been such a learning experience for me and having this resource is invaluable!! I can't thank you enough! amc20.pdf
  5. Hi Moses, You now see where my confusion was happening. The tech guy specifically said that there should be no end-play. The instructions, like you noted, make no reference to end-play or pre-load. Just that it shouldn't bind. As far as the bearing cup protrusion, this video most closely resembles my process, and the instructions for installation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmKC7FRf7-E The bearing and retainer get pressed down to a flanged ridge on the axle and it remains completely stationary. In the axle housing, the seal, spacer, and race are installed in the housing. Then you just insert the axle onto the shaft as far as it will go, which positions the bearing within the race. Tighten everything down to spec, and check for binding. When you watch the video, you will see the part where he is measuring the spacer, as it protrudes beyond the axle housing face. This is where he measures, and files down the spacer, to obtain the correct tolerance. If you look at my image, the race does not protrude at all. This is why I am concerned. I then talked to the tech at "TenFactory" and he said that I should be measuring the "bearing" protrusion and not the "race". (This differs from the attached video)So because I already had pressed the bearing onto the shaft, I couldn't use it. I grabbed a spare bearing and placed it in the race to measure. It measured to be within the acceptable tolerance range. So I went ahead and tightened everything down. Now it is all assembled. It has no end-play". I can turn the hub with my hand, but it does take some effort. Right now, I have two main questions I am trying to figure out: Is it okay that there is no end-play? What is considered "binding"? On the binding question....Although the hub is a little tough to spin, it doesn't sound or feel like it is catching on anything. I just am not sure how hard it should be to turn the hub, and if it is somewhat difficult to turn, does that indicate binding, in which case, I would need to go back in and shave down the spacer a bit. This is such a critical point in the process, I want to be sure it's right before I reinstall brakes, bleed them, etc... I also don't want to fry the bearing and have to do this all over again.:-) Because it's all hooked up right now, I'm reserved to unbolt it to take pictures at this time. I have a couple of calls out to some people that will hopefully help me determine if things are correct. If it is determined that I do need to go back in and shave the spacer, I will take photos of everything and send them your way. I want to be helpful to this forum and I know images really help, but if I can move forward on this project without dissembling, the photos may not happen. To your point about the housing bores, the seal, spacer and race all would only go in so far because the would stop at their designated bevel. With that said, it did NOT occur to me that they could wear down and possible cause the spacer to recess further. But like you said, that would result in too much end-play. My scenario has no end-play so I think we're probably good there. But really good point you make!
  6. Thanks @Moses Ludel, I have read the section, in your awesome manual, multiple times but am a bit confused now. When I was speaking to the axle kit manufacturer tech guy, he said that shims are no longer needed with the one-piece. He then said that there should be no play at all. He continued to say that if there is play, then the bearings are not fully seated in the race, and that can actually cause problems. I assembled everything and there currently is no play. I trust your vast knowledge on this and feel like I am beating a dead horse now, especially after you have taken so much time to help me. I am just wondering why the instructions/advice I am getting on these new one piece axles, do not coincide with the instructions your book suggests. End play or no end play? hmmmm.
  7. @Moses Ludel I opted to go with the "TenFactory" one-piece axle kit. According to the instructions, the bearing race should protrude from the axle housing with a .020 - .060 tolerance. If it protrudes further than .060, then the spacer should be filed down until the tolerance is within the limit. I've attached a photo that shows that my set-up, where the race only reaches to the inner-bevel of the housing, which seems wrong to me. Maybe they sent the wrong sized spacer? The fact that the race doesn't extrude beyond the housing at all, makes me think something is not right. Another question...What is considered "binding"? In attempt to troubleshoot this original issue, I went ahead and assembled the axle/hub on to the housing and bolted it down to spec. The instructions say there should be no "binding". When I rotate the hub assembly, there is a decent amount of resistance, and I do here a little noise as I turn. I just don't know if that is normal, or if resistance and noise is considered "binding", which means too much pressure on the bearing? Looking through tutorials and such, it is suggested that there should be "some resistance". This being my first attempt at this, I'm not sure what is considered proper resistance. Thanks again for all of your help!!
  8. Thanks Moses for the in-depth information. Very much appreciated. I actually already DO own your book. It's awesome! I am using it for this project, but admittedly, I must have misread or just missed this topic. I should have slowed down and thoroughly researched before posting here. But doing so lead me to a great forum here, so I'm happy for that discovery. Thanks again! Gary
  9. Thanks Jon. That makes sense. After further research and forum reads, I think I may switch to the one piece Morris set. Seems better all the way around. Thanks again!
  10. I feel like I am completely missing something here. I am attempting to replace the bearings on my 1985 Jeep CJ7 with AMC 20. As you'll see in the photo, I'm down to removing the inner race("B" in image). But I am looking at the axle shaft and tit has this flare("A" in image) sticking out which as far as I can see, there is no way I could possible get the new bearing over this flare out. All of the forums and tutorials say I should be able to slide the component down the shaft for pressing, but I just don't see how this would be possible. It seems to me I have to remove the axle shaft from the hub ("C" in image) Image---https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MyfZGH_B5jCT4d-_tzVfsTVR7ulv6LWu/view?usp=sharing Can someone please set me straight? Thanks!
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