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waxman

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  1. @Moses Ludel Thanks for the reply. I must have watched that video literally 30 times, to wrap my head around everything. I'm relieved to hear that you concur with the way I have it set up. I'm still knocking on wood, as that is my general paranoid nature. ha. Thank you again for the vast amount of time you spent on this with me! Seriously! It's very much appreciated. Gary
  2. @Moses Ludel You are correct in that the bearing is flipped with the bearing's smaller tapered end facing the differential. I read through your last post multiple times to be sure I understood your concern. If I understand you correctly, the concern is that because the bearing is flipped opposite the OEM settings, the "bearing's inner race/collar to wear against the face of the seal retainer plate." From what I can tell, there is only one direction in which the bearing can be installed, due to the fact that the bearing race is installed on the housing and not the shaft. Since the ta
  3. @Moses Ludel Your reference to the Morris configuration is accurate. TenFactory has the same layout. I have everything reassembled now and it runs great. Actually a much smoother ride. (My old bearings were on their last legs). Now it's a matter of hoping everything is how it should be. I'll find out soon enough if things are fine, or the bearings fry and back to step 1. Knock on wood!!! I will post my results here. Thanks again for taking the time and effort to help me. It's been so very helpful!!! Gary
  4. @Moses Ludel Thanks for your reply. I've attached the instructions and a screen shot of the parts included in the kit. The info. from the tech regarding measuring the bearing, as opposed to the race, was obtained well after you and I began our conversation. But you are correct, that was the important missing piece. Although the bearing came pre-greased, I did heavily pack it more. and I added extra grease in the housing bore where the race and spacer sit. You are correct, the differential fluid does not reach the bearing, because of the seal. So again, the bearing needs to have
  5. Hi Moses, You now see where my confusion was happening. The tech guy specifically said that there should be no end-play. The instructions, like you noted, make no reference to end-play or pre-load. Just that it shouldn't bind. As far as the bearing cup protrusion, this video most closely resembles my process, and the instructions for installation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmKC7FRf7-E The bearing and retainer get pressed down to a flanged ridge on the axle and it remains completely stationary. In the axle housing, the seal, spacer, and race are installed in the housi
  6. Thanks @Moses Ludel, I have read the section, in your awesome manual, multiple times but am a bit confused now. When I was speaking to the axle kit manufacturer tech guy, he said that shims are no longer needed with the one-piece. He then said that there should be no play at all. He continued to say that if there is play, then the bearings are not fully seated in the race, and that can actually cause problems. I assembled everything and there currently is no play. I trust your vast knowledge on this and feel like I am beating a dead horse now, especially after you have take
  7. @Moses Ludel I opted to go with the "TenFactory" one-piece axle kit. According to the instructions, the bearing race should protrude from the axle housing with a .020 - .060 tolerance. If it protrudes further than .060, then the spacer should be filed down until the tolerance is within the limit. I've attached a photo that shows that my set-up, where the race only reaches to the inner-bevel of the housing, which seems wrong to me. Maybe they sent the wrong sized spacer? The fact that the race doesn't extrude beyond the housing at all, makes me think something is not right.
  8. Thanks Moses for the in-depth information. Very much appreciated. I actually already DO own your book. It's awesome! I am using it for this project, but admittedly, I must have misread or just missed this topic. I should have slowed down and thoroughly researched before posting here. But doing so lead me to a great forum here, so I'm happy for that discovery. Thanks again! Gary
  9. Thanks Jon. That makes sense. After further research and forum reads, I think I may switch to the one piece Morris set. Seems better all the way around. Thanks again!
  10. I feel like I am completely missing something here. I am attempting to replace the bearings on my 1985 Jeep CJ7 with AMC 20. As you'll see in the photo, I'm down to removing the inner race("B" in image). But I am looking at the axle shaft and tit has this flare("A" in image) sticking out which as far as I can see, there is no way I could possible get the new bearing over this flare out. All of the forums and tutorials say I should be able to slide the component down the shaft for pressing, but I just don't see how this would be possible. It seems to me I have to remove the axle shaft from
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