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Lowell

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  1. Alheim ... The whole process took 4 week, but much of that time was waiting for parts. I removed the tranny, ordered parts and waited 5 day, broke 5th gear with the wrong puller, waited 5 days. Actual work time: removal 1 day, tear down 1 day, re-build 2 days, re-install 2 days. Several months ago I had picked up a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift. It was great especially for lifting and lining up the tranny when going back in. The last time I had the tranny out replacing a broken clutch fork I muscled it in and out on my chest. Yikes, no thank you. If the input shaft spline and guide pin are not perfectly centered it is not going in. When it is lined up it slides in like a hot buttered knife. Now, only one problem, and it's the only gear I don't remember bench checking. I don't have 5th gear. When hand turning on the bench the new syncros were very "grabby" and it took some effort to break them loose and spin the input shaft by hand. I was hoping that was the problem with 5th gear, but I don't think so. Monday I'll take off the shifter plate and see what I can see with a light. I'm wondering if I have the slider in backward. I've tried putting it in 5th gear and starting, from stopped with the clutch in .... no dice. She grinds. It feels like it goes in when the clutch is depressed but then pops out and grinds. ... Not looking forward to taking it out again. Been thinking about maybe just taking off the rear housing with the tranny in place. What do you think, Moses? I also made a modification to the external clutch slave piston. The original has seal with a hole through the center. This seal fails every few years. I've been pouring in fluid ever couple months. I cut the plunger in half removing the section where the seal sits. I filed and polished the ends. Then got a standard 3/4" (I think) brake cup (no hole) and put the spring end of the plunger in the cup of the brake cup and carefully slide it into the cylinder. Then re-assembled the other half of the plunger and retainer clip. I had also cut the tubing in half on the horizontal section on the other side of the tranny. Sure makes it easier to get in and out. Using the bleed screw and hand pushing the plunger you can suck fluid into the cylinder, pre-charging it before installation.
  2. With parts from Allstate Gears, my project is complete and ready to go back in the Jeep. Word of advise, yes, from experience .... ha ha ha ... get a plastic mortar pan from Home Depot and bolt it and your vise to the middle of the bench. The rebuild works best holding the intermediate plate in the vise. BUT ... when you take out the shifting rods there's a lot of little lock balls and pins that are going to drop out. Even though I used a magnet to with draw them I still miss the two tiny pins that ride inside the rods. They both dropped into my saw dust shop floor. My friend spent over an hour with a magnet but found them. The 5th gear thrust washer also has a lock ball, yes, that fell into the saw dust. That I got from McMaster Carr. They carry all grades of balls. This one was 6.5mm, so now I have 49 extra. Anyone need one ... or two???? Oh, by the way, you're going to need a hydraulic press and a bearing splitter to do the job properly. All in all it was a great project and I learned a lot. Now, when I'm driving and shifting I can imagine what's going on beneath the shifter knob. Would I do it again??? In a heart beat.
  3. I'm pushing 300,000 miles on my lil 1986 Jeep Cherokee and on my trip from Southern California to Northern California the transmission started to whine and I could smell over heating oil. I stopped and put in 2 quarts of oil. I guess it's time to replace the shaft seals. This was 3 months ago. In that time the whine has been getting louder so a couple weeks ago I put the Jeep up on blocks and removed the tranny. What a job as all that other stuff has to come off first. From a very good Youtube video from JeepsandStuff I removed both the cases and have the intermediate mounted in the big bench vise. I found Allstate Gear by doing a google search and the assisted me in getting all the right gear sets and accessory kits to complete the job. The input shaft gear and drive end gear of the cluster shaft has several broken teeth and you could see where other teeth were worn and cracking. Today the rebuild parts arrived and tomorrow I'll start the tear down. I'll post pictures as I do the rebuild. In the picture the input shaft has already been taken off. It had the most gear damage.
  4. The original problem was probably just a worn out fuel pressure regulator diaphragm. It was bypassing enough that I only had 6psi fuel pressure at the throttle body. However, in the process I also changed out plugs, wires, cap, & rotor. This meant I got rid of the Bosch cross-fire plugs I'd been running for years and put in the oem plugs. I think I just exchanged problems. I fixed the fuel pressure problem but introduced a plug problem. It was misfiring badly and consistently on #1 & #4. The plugs were brown and dry. My thinking was that the computer was seeing unburned fuel at the O2 sensor so it leaked out the mixture. Today I did about 4 hours research on plug heat range and found many articles stating that an improper heat range can cause, among other things, misfire. Remedy???? ... hotter plug, but which one since most plugs these days don't display the heat range. The tech agent at www.sparkplugs.com was very helpful in helping me find a plug that was one heat range hotter with the same tip configuration as the oem plug. I'm not running oem plugs on #2 & #3 and NGK ZFR4F-11 4043 on #1 & #4. NGK heat range is backward. Low numbers are hotter. The oem plug was a heat range 5. I installed the two plugs in the parking lot and drove down the back of the shopping center. No misfire, no hesitation, just good clean acceleration, even in 2nd gear from idle. ... But look at it this way. I needed a fuel pressure regulator,air temp sensor, EGR valve timing chain, front seal, harmonic balancer and it probably didn't hurt to change out the other electronic components that were probably 30 years old. It's been a steep learning curve but a great challenge and very educational. ... hotter plugs, but only on 2 cylinders .. who would have guessed???
  5. Tuesday ... Verified the distributor angle was correct at TDC ... yup, 6 o'clock. What next?? I ohm checked the coil - ok. On inspection of the ICM I noticed that the bottom, where to rubber is poured in, was all dried and had many cracks. ???Could be??? It's only money so I replaced it. :( no change. Removing one plug wire at a time I concluded that the missing is on #1 & #4 cylinders. Could it be a fuel delivery issue? Injector seems to be spraying a nice pattern. When at idle I have 22"hg. When I tromp on the throttle it dropped to 3-5"hg. Is this normal? Just finished performing the injector spray test with an induction type timing light. I can't really see any spray pattern ... at all. When I shine a flashlight in the throttle body I can see that the butterfly is wet and fluid is moving but even then I don't see any type of conical pattern. Having never see one that I know is working properly, I mean how many people look down the throttle body when everything works perfectly, I'm not really sure what a normal spray pattern even looks like. Tuesday afternoon: Update ... so, I replaced the fuel injector nozzle ... :-( ... no better and no worse. I'm running out of parts to check or change.
  6. Monday ... all back together. New timing chain. Engine vacuum at idle doubled . .. but :-( the engine still misses, I think only on 1 cylinder, but when you only have 4 it's quite pronounced. I didn't do the 20 pin check but I check and re-checked several times the dot alignment with a straight edge, both before and after the tensioner was installed. Before, I took up the slack with my hand. With 22-24 "hg at idle should I still make a smoke machine to check for vacuum? I'm really at a loose to what the real problem is. All sensors checked and rechecked, Replaced intake air sensor, crankshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor (even though both checked good) EGR valve, fuel pressure regulator, timing sprockets & chain /w tensioner, Harmonic balancer (probably not contributing to the problem, but worn out). Do I go more complex in my diagnosis or am I thinking this too deeply and I need to go shallow and look for the obvious ????? .... Hmmmmmmmm Quote Edit
  7. Monday ... all back together. New timing chain. Engine vacuum at idle doubled . .. but :-( the engine still misses, I think only on 1 cylinder, but when you only have 4 it's quite pronounced. I didn't do the 20 pin check but I check and re-checked several times the dot alignment with a straight edge, both before and after the tensioner was installed. Before, I took up the slack with my hand. With 22-24 "hg at idle should I still make a smoke machine to check for vacuum? I'm really at a loose to what the real problem is. All sensors checked and rechecked, Replaced intake air sensor, crankshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor (even though both checked good) EGR valve, fuel pressure regulator, timing sprockets & chain /w tensioner, Harmonic balancer (probably not contributing to the problem, but worn out). Do I go more complex in my diagnosis or am I thinking this too deeply and I need to go shallow and look for the obvious ????? .... Hmmmmmmmm
  8. There was a wear mark on the timing cover. Turns out the harmonic balancer rubber is old, hard, and coming out so I have a new one on order for Monday. It was also a great time to install a new seal. I never would park in people's driveway because of the constant oil drip from the front seal. I did the rear seal when I replaced the clutch 6 years ago.
  9. I did the rings and rod bearing a few years ago. Out of 8 compression rings 6 were broken. I few years earlier I had a valve keeper shear so while I had the head off I lapped all the valves. When I did the rings there was NO ridge at the top, not even a carbon ring. I de-glazed and re-assembled. Timing chain is going back in. The adjuster was completely worn out and the chain had some slop. I still don't quite understand the pdf manual page 63 because the timing gear marks were right on the money. They had not slipped a gear tooth. Could that later model engine time completely different than the 84/85/86 engines?
  10. Thanks for the engine information. Ok .... update for today. I'm really not finding a vacuum leak and before I build a smoke machine there's been this gnawing in the back of my mind to check the valve timing. I found this pdf manual http://oljeep.com/JeepEngines.pdf and on page 63 it tell how to check valve timing. So I removed all the plug, it was easier to rotate by removing all the rocker bridges, set up a dial indicator on the #1 intake push rod and checked .... Hmmm the dial moved .010 but I don't see the index mark anywhere (????) ... oh, there it is 3 inches to the left, or 3 inches BTDC ... really???? Guess I'll pull the timing cover and check it out.
  11. Right now I don't much feel like it's a gem. I've blocked off the vacuum from the side of the throttle body and ran a separate hose to the MAP sensor. While waiting for a new EGR valve I cut a piece of thin brass sheet and blanked it off. It still misses and sputter when any kind of load is put on it. I noticed the heater vacuum comes directly off the manifold. Tomorrow I'll cap that, the, do a smoke test. Oh, don't know why I've not done it before but I'll also hook up my vacuum gauge. I checked a local Jeep 4x4 shop, who sounds really good with Jeeps. I asked if he had an LR2 V-6. He didn't but also discouraged me from swapping. From what you wrote I guess you're opposed ti it as well. More update tomorrow.
  12. Fuel pressure: 2.5L engine ... 15psi fuel pressure read at the test port on the throttle body. That was a problem because the regulator was badly leaking by. Snap-on tester. No codes, but I can read dynamic sensor reading. When I told my friend what the fuel trim was he right away said vacuum leak so that's what I'm doing today. Thank you, I never thought about the EGR valve I'll check it as well.
  13. Hooked up my friends Snap-On analyzer. I'm questioning the ST & LT Fuel Trim ST = 193-200 LT = 163 Are these normal? The engine still misses when under load, both from idle and at driving speeds.
  14. Having read low pressure between the tank and the filter I ordered a new fuel pump. In using the pump to empty the tank I noticed that the volume was terrific. So, I put a gauge on and dead headed the pump. Wow, 55psi. I have a bad diaphragm in the pressure regulator. Removing it the I could see it was defective and allowing bypassing. I removed the throttle body and replaced it. After adjusting I now have proper fuel pressure of 15psi read at the test port. One problem solved. Now I need to adjust the throttle position sensor. It's dark so I'm quitting for the evening.
  15. thank you for moving my message to a topic thread. This problem started almost exactly one month to the day after it passed smog and was running great. 1. I checked the fuel return and it only reads 9 psi even after changing a very clean filter. I change it only 2 years ago. 2. The O2 sensor was new in May to pass smog. I know they are very sensitive. It has a built in seal similar to spark plugs so I did not use any thread sealant. I checked the plug to make sure it was clean and seated well. 3. I have not checked fuel volume, I wanted to check pressure between the tank and the filter first. I'll do that in the next day or two. Today I'm working on my sailboat.
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