Moses Ludel
-
Posts
4,447 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Store
Articles
Gallery
Posts posted by Moses Ludel
-
-
Drain the block was a reminder if you filled the Mopar V-8's cooling system with straight water...Prior to use of Saginaw recirculating ball steering gears, the steering gears on the I-H pickups were either Ross or Gemmer. The ratios were slow (lots of turns lock-to-lock), so it's likely the truck steers well with manual steering. What year is the chassis? I'll research the steering gear. Have you found the I.D. plate?
-
Oh, boy! It's alive and running under its own steam. Out of the raspberries, the I-H 4x4 looks much better. Potential here, your instincts were good. This move is just in time for the freezing weather. You can now see what you have here and make plans.
How does the beast steer with manual steering? It's a slow ratio steering gear with lots of turns lock-to-lock. Those closed knuckles at the front axle offer plenty of feedback...Drain the block.
-
Kevin...3.54 gears would "get by" if you were primarily highway driving. The T176 gearing is respectable despite no compound 1st or overdrive. If that transmission is your future, 3.54 gears with 31" tires would be approximately what the Jeep feels like with stone stock tires (225/75SB15 or 28.3" diameter) and 3.08s. Here are the 65 mph engine speeds in 4th/direct gear for each axle ratio, including your current 3.08s and 31" tires:
1) 2,320 rpm with near stock tires (29")and 3.08s
2) 2,170 rpm with 31" tires and your current 3.08s
3) 2,494 rpm with 31" tires and 3.54s
4) 2,628 rpm with 31" tires and 3.73s
If seen this way, and if near stock tires (28.3"-29") and 3.08s were livable, your idea of 3.54s on a budget build is not bad. The 4.6L stroker motor would be a happy camper below 2,500 rpm and not eat as much fuel. Highway driving looks a lot better with the 3.54s if your new camshaft is a torque grind for bottom end and mid-range performance (idle to 4,000 rpm).
31" tires and 3.54s would be a sweet spot for the engine, at peak torque on the highway in 4th gear. (3.08s would feel like a modern "overdrive" in 4th/direct gear.) Here are the transmission ratios for the T176, courtesy of our friends at Advance Adapters:
- 1st gear 3.52:1
- 2nd gear 2.29:1
- 3rd Gear 1.46:1
- 4th Gear 1.00:1
- Reverse 3.52:1
You have a reasonably low first gear (not compound, though) with 4th direct. Without overdrive, this is a juggling act, balancing between performance, fuel efficiency and engine rpm. You might leave the axle gearing alone until after you get the engine together and have a chance to drive the vehicle with the lift, 31" tires and stock gearing. The axle ratio choice would then be based on a real world "feel" for how the Jeep performs. With a strong clutch, you could drive the Jeep and evaluate its performance and loads in each gear before making an informed choice about the optimal axle gearing.
As for books, the one that would serve you well at this moment is the Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 edition (Bentley Publishers), available from a variety of sources, including Amazon and Bentley. It's hands on and in-depth on axles, the transfer case and other mechanical service work.
Moses
-
Hi, Kevin...A 2-2.5" chassis lift (only) has historically been a 31"x10.5"x15" or equivalent metric tire size on 8-inch negative offset rims. With the non-overdrive T176, highway driving would benefit from 3.73s. The 4.6L stroker motor will easily pull this gearing with a good clutch (Centerforce or similar) behind the engine. You have a Dana 300 low range ratio for decent off-pavement trail running. If the vehicle were driven primarily off-pavement, 4.11s would be a consideration with this tire size.
33" tires would dictate 4.11 gears plus a chassis lift (only) of 4" for that tire diameter. I'm not a fan of body lifts, they create body, radiator, steering shaft and other alignment issues, so I think in terms of a chassis lift.
If not worn (41 years old?), you could use the internals with new ring-and-pinion gear sets. I like a manual locker at least at the rear, historically running an ARB Air Locker. Front and rear lockers are generally for hardcore wheeling. A rear only locker will make a world of difference under most driving conditions.
I prefer a manual locker for more control and safety on off-camber trails where a locked axle can cause both wheels at an axle to spin, and the vehicle slides sideways to the low side of the trail. Here, I run open differentials front and rear for better directional stability. I address this in my Jeep® books.
Moses
-
Looks like the home stretch for getting the 4x4 to your place...Yep, snow needs to stay away. Can see that the cold weather has shown up, but the engine is starting right up.
-
Well, our rain turned to snow this morning, a first for the fall, warming toward the end of the week, so I know your pain. Your crew cab 4x4 sounds close to live action!
-
You're welcome, ferdinandxe...The Bosch relays are a good way to reduce long runs of heavier gauge wire. The device (wiper motors, etc.) has the required, heavier gauge wiring. Switching the relay on and off can be done with less amperage and lighter wire gauge. Bosch relay boxes are popular because they save a lot of copper while providing safe wire sizes to the devices. In addition to the relays, the device wire circuits still require fuses. This is why modern factory wiring circuits have relays and fuses.
Moses
-
Progress! One step closer to rescuing the I-H from the bush...Sounds promising.
-
Bill…Your VIN is straightforward. Like my ’05 3500 4WD, your 2006 was built at Saltillo, Mexico. Your GVWR is 8,001-9,000 lbs. (mine is higher). The truck is a “Heavy Duty” 2500 4x4 Quad-Cab that came with the “H.O.” 5.9L Cummins. in 2006, these trucks had a G56 manual six-speed or our 48RE automatic transmission.
The 48RE is derived from the A727 3-speed with a planetary overdrive built into the unit behind the band apply planet assemblies. The architecture is similar to the A518, A618, 46RE and 47RE. The 48RE is the last and beefiest version with improved planetary pinions from the factory. Randy’s would use these planetary units or a heavier duty design for its high horsepower build.
You have a total of four speeds forward. 4th gear is overdrive. There is no “5th gear/overdrive”. There is, however, a lock-up converter that you may feel after the shift to 4th gear. If the transmission remains in 4th/overdrive when the Edge tuner indicates “LOCK”, the tuner may be locking the converter and transmission in overdrive during that mode.
I have a manual lockout that prevents the transmission from up-shifting from 3rd to 4th/overdrive when I climb grades. This holds the transmission in 1st-2nd- 3rd gears and prevents the engagement of 4th/overdrive. You should have a similar factory mode to hold down in 3rd under heavy loads. “Haul” or “Tow” mode is the factory language. Your gear selector's 3rd gear position (as opposed to "D") will serve that function. My 2005 did not come with an overdrive lockout selection. I resorted to a BD Overdrive Lock-Out switch, specifically designed for 2005 Ram 48REs. Your 2006 does not need an aftermarket switch, you simply shift to "3", and the transmission will not shift up to 4th/Overdrive.
The ratios in a 48RE are spaced wide between 3rd (1:1) and overdrive (0.69:1). This is a 31% overdrive ratio in 4th gear. The lock-up of the converter could feel like another “gear” shift if Randy’s uses a firm locking converter. The tuner may be showing 1-2-3-4 plus lock-up of the converter. The 48RE is considered a 4-speed with 4th being the over-driving gear.
You can clarify the ratios and gears with Randy’s; however, they likely use the factory 1-2-3-4/Overdrive ratios built into the planetaries. I visited the Randy’s website and confirmed your list of upgrades. (Like Randy's, I have installed several Sonnax pieces in my 48RE transmission, and it hasn't been on the bench at 183,000 miles.)
I also went to the Edge site and find it interesting that they sell a 2003-2012 Ram in-cabin tuner under one part number. Apparently, they use the same tuner for 48RE and 68RFE transmissions. The 68RFE is a 6-speed used from mid-2007 up with the 6.7L diesel. 6th gear is overdrive. The instructions that came with your tuner may help clarify the “gears” and “LOCK” mode indicated.
When the converter locks up in any gear, the ratio for that gear remains the same. Lock-up simply eliminates slippage at the torque converter. When the converter locks up in 4th/overdrive, the overdrive ratio remains the same. The speed-up (slight) that you feel is from elimination of the converter slip. Think of 4th gear as a legitimate gear. Though separate from the front planetary assemblies that use the bands, the overdrive planetary and its clutch plates create a distinct ratio change just like each of the other gear ratios.
You can think of the converter lock-up as members of the converter no longer being allowed to slip (a percentage). Slip is a normal function of torque converters without lock-up. Lock-up converters came about to meet emissions and fuel efficiency standards. They typically lock up at a designated road speed and throttle pressure, unlocking at lower speeds to allow smooth shifts and a normal engine idle.
If you have a manual lockup or tow/haul control, when shifting into this mode, even in lower gears, you will feel the converter lock up to eliminate slip, accompanied by a slight rise in engine rpm with that lock up. Again, that can feel like a slight “gear” change but is simply the converter members locking and no longer being allowed to slip.
So, to your question...You're indicating that the transmission goes briefly into 3rd then up-shifts to 4th/Overdrive plus lock-up. Then the converter uncouples, which feels like a shift. After reaching a higher road speed, the overdrive/4th gear once more goes into lock-up mode of the converter.
Are you getting any P-codes? If check lights are still functional after the upgrade transmission, here are several of the codes that can occur if a fault like you describe is serious enough to "hard set" a code. I'm listing these to provide a conceptional framework for transmission related electrical and electronic malfunctions. Also included is the Throttle Valve or TVVA, which also can be a source of trouble and erratic shift points. Poor electrical connections, a defective governor solenoid or a TVVA either out of calibration, defective or with a loose connection can each create erratic shift points or premature torque converter (TCC) lockup:
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 48RE DIESEL ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
P0711-TRANS TEMP SENSOR, NO TEMP
RISE AFTER START (DIESEL)
P0712-TRANS TEMP SENSOR VOLTAGE
TOO LOW (DIESEL)
P0713-TRANS TEMP SENSOR VOLTAGE
TOO HIGH
P0720-LOW OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR -
RPM ABOVE 15 MPH (DIESEL)
P0748-PRESSURE SOL CONTROL/TRANS
RELAY CIRCUITS (DIESEL)
P0850-P/N SWITCH PERFORMANCE
(DIESEL)
P0868-GOVERNOR PRESSURE SENSOR
P0869-GOVERNOR PRESSURE SENSOR
VOLTS TOO LOW (DIESEL)
P0882-TRANS 12 VOLT SUPPLY RELAY
CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW
P0883-TRANS 12 VOLT SUPPLY RELAY
CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH (DIESEL)
P0973-TRANSMISSION OVERDRIVE
CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TOO LOW (DIESEL)
P0974-TRANSMISSION OVERDRIVE
CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TOO HIGH (DIESEL)
P1740-TCC O/D SOL PERFORMANCE
(DIESEL)
P1749-TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE
POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW
P1750-TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE
POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH
P1751-TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE
POSITION MINIMUM RANGE
PERFORMANCE
P1752-TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE
SPAN PERFORMANCE
P1753-TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE
MECHANICAL PERFORMANCE
P1754-TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE
ACTUATOR STUCK
P1755-TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE
CONTROL CIRCUIT
P1756-GOV PRESS NOT EQUAL TO
TARGET @ 35 - 40 PSI (DIESEL)
P1757-GOV PRESS ABOVE 3 PSI IN GEAR
WITH 0 MPH (DIESEL)
P1762-GOV PRESS SENSOR OFFSET
VOLTS TOO LOW OR HIGH (DIESEL)
P2769-TRANSMISSION TCC CONTROL
CIRCUIT LOW
P2770-TRANSMISSION TCC CONTROL
CIRCUIT HIGH (DIESEL)
You did not mention any thrown codes. Considering the vehicle's speed around the 3rd to 4th shift and lock-up, I would focus here and also on the transmission temperature or temp sensor. The transmission's factory temperature sensor sees 260-degrees F as the tipping point. If the transmission gets hotter than this, the 4th gear/overdrive is disabled and 3rd gear with TCC (torque converter lock-up) is engaged. The intent here is to increase transmission fluid flow to help cool the transmission.
Is this problem occurring in the summer only, when the transmission might be heating up? Do you have a temperature gauge on the transmission? Many performance transmission builders recommend use of a permanently mounted/installed transmission temp gauge and often an add-on transmission cooler. The factory coolers can clog and create overheating of the transmission.
Another consideration is the normal road speed for the TCC function or lock-up of the converter. You share that this problem occurs at 37 mph. Depending upon variables like stock axle gearing, modified axle gearing, oversized tires and so forth, the transmission's governor function, TVVA pressure/calibration, vehicle speed sensor and TCC solenoid could trigger a premature lock-up of the converter. Each of these issues requires a scan tool to monitor the functions during a test drive when the erratic shift and lockup symptom occurs.
The most common problem sources are poor electrical plug connections. TCC circuit connections, controller connections and even the Edge tuner's wiring to the chassis/powertrain can cause voltage fluctuations. If the problem persists, I would check the electrical connections and grounds related to the transmission's shifting and include wiring from the tuner to the truck's electrical system. Factory wiring is generally more reliable than aftermarket splice-ins.
Moses
-
GhostOverwatch...You did not mention the transmissions involved. Are these manual (ZF), automatic overdrive E4OD or 3-speed C-6 automatic transmissions? The 7.3L engine uses an adapter between the transmission bellhousing or converter housing and the engine block. The engine is a Navistar medium-duty truck design.
Before considering this swap, the fuel supply system, evaporative emission system and engine wiring harness must match up with the diesel. This could be the time-consuming part of the project. You have the underhood harness for a 460 V-8 gasoline engine now. You would need the harness or wiring for the 7.3L diesel. This goes from the dash through the engine bay and to the fuel pump.
These conversions "can" be done. I would not attempt the job without a factory workshop manual that covers both the diesel and gasoline engines. I have a 1993 set that I referenced when writing my Ford F-Series Pickup Owner's Bible (Bentley Publishers). Ford did a great job on these manuals. See if you can find a set for your 1994 chassis and powertrain. The two book set for 1993 covers "Body/Chassis" in one book and "Powertrain/Drivetrain" in the other. You might find a set at eBay or an automotive used book supply.
The manual shows frame and engine mount differences, powertrain fit-up and many other details. A Ford dealership parts person can also fill in details. This swap begins with engine to transmission mating plus mounting the engine in the chassis. Then there's the cooling, wiring, exhaust, fuel supply system and other details I've mentioned. Consider the work involved and parts before committing to this project.
Moses
-
When the truck is out of the raspberry brush and in your garage, it would be great to see undercarriage photos from stem to stern. I'd like to make sense of what's gone on with this I-H Crew Cab.
-
Good for storage at least...You'll like having it out of the raspberries and on level ground for access to the undercarriage.
-
A garage will do it! Best place to work on the truck and sort out its issues in a sensible work environment...Do you have heat in the garage for winter?
-
The long trip back!...Unique truck, worthy of attention. Sounds like you're busy, this is the time of year, we're heading toward cold weather.
Guessing the entire cooling system (radiator, engine block, etc.) is drained? Will you leave the truck in this wooded area for the winter or try to get it out?
-
JAB...It's apparent that you're trying to do the right thing, I'd like to think you'll get a response from your area. It's distinctly I-H Scout, an 800 model from the sixties. The analyzer and engine hoist have some value if they still work. Good luck with your sale...
Moses
-
Sharon...I got the visual from the photos. The rust is exceptional. Is the underside of the Tracker equally rusted? This looks like the result of road salt exposure or what can happen when a vehicle has been run in salt water surf. This major rust is in the area of the battery, which does hint of possible battery acid damage. However, similar rust in other areas of the frame and body would rule out an isolated problem at the battery section.
The concern here, as you suggest, is "good money after bad". A primary consideration is safety and whether the frame or superstructure of the body is affected by rust like you photographed. If the right front wheel well and strut tower are the full extent of the damage, that could be fixed if affordable and practical. If this rust perforation is a pattern for similar damage elsewhere beneath the vehicle, the Tracker would be a "parts car" for salvaging and selling the powertrain, rear axle and other pieces.
My suggestion is to get the vehicle to a reputable body shop that can lift the Tracker on a hoist and evaluate the rest of the frame, the bottom of the body (including floor pans) and the steel brake, fuel and other lines beneath the vehicle. It is worth a half-hour's labor charge to have a professional body/frame shop evaluate the extent of the rust and offer a rough idea of what it would take to fix it and the cost. That would be the basis for an "informed decision" on your part.
If rust is pervasive, your theory about cutting losses may turn out the right choice. I would at least pursue an evaluation and estimate from a shop that specializes in both body and frame work. Speculating or subletting a series of "patch repairs" is not the right approach. You have already discovered that shops simply put repair work on the clock and charge accordingly, whether you end up with a dependable vehicle or not. What you need is an impartial shop that will offer an objective, professional opinion.
If the vehicle were in the air and you could photograph it from one end of the undercarriage to the other (bumper to bumper, all areas of the underside), I would be glad to offer my opinion. A reputable frame/body shop should be able to do so as well.
Moses
-
Sharon...Wow, aside from the mechanical expenses, the rust issue can be serious. If you can take some cell phone photos of the hole and rust, providing as much view of rust damage as possible, I would be glad to comment. Rust can be a deal breaker, maybe not in this case. The good news is the Tracker's frame/drivable chassis rather than a unitized body/chassis. Let's see the extent of the damage.
Moses
-
B Rad...There are a few possibilities: 1) as you suggest, lack of fuel pressure and volume from the tank to the carburetor, 2) a sticky carburetor float and needle or 3) a low float level setting.
You can check fuel pump pressure and volume with a "T" fitting from the fuel line between the pump and the carburetor. Pressure with the engine idling should be a minimum of 3-3/4 PSI with the vapor return hose (if equipped) squeezed off or 2-1/2 PSI minimum with vapor hose open. Buick recommended a fuel pump output of 4-1/4 PSI to 5-1/2 PSI for its passenger car engines. The difference depends upon the rpm when testing the pump. More importantly, there should be steady fuel flow and good fuel flow volume.
If the pump pressure is low, this could be either the pump diaphragm or a badly worn pump drive eccentric at the front of the camshaft, which causes a short pump stroke. In either case, an electric pump would be one solution. This engine's fuel filter is a canister between the pump and carburetor, there shouldn't be a carburetor inlet filter. If the pump is putting out the correct pressure and volume, check the carburetor for a low float level setting or a sticking needle. Float level is important.
The 2G series carburetors are easy to rebuild. A rebuild kit with gaskets and a new needle/seat is still readily available. If necessary, do a bench rebuild of the carburetor and pay close attention to each of the linkage adjustments shown in the kit's instructions. A factory service manual reprint is available and very helpful for this work. Correct gasket positioning is important to avoid blocking fuel and air passages.
Make sure that the PCV valve works properly with vacuum hoses routed correctly. This is an inexpensive item that can cause tune and performance issues. If the fuel system and carburetor check okay, check the vacuum and centrifugal spark timing. With Prestolite distributors, I always look for defective/worn distributor shaft bushings and erratic dwell readings. Fortunately, you have the Delco-Remy distributor, much more reliable.
Moses
-
Mike...I was pleased with my choice. You have turn signals built into the modern column, which does require wiring from the steering column. A horn, too. The wiring is not difficult to sift out and results in a better electrical system. Be sure to fuse the wires, a fuse box like Painless Products can help here.
The bronze bushing is the concern for me. If you do the AA approach with a shortened original column, consider upgrading the bushing to a bearing. You're familiar with bearing mounts and plates from your mill work. I'd be curious to see your solution if you do use the AA approach.
The other concern is the mating of the original steering shaft to the open (lower) shaft. At one time AA did this coupling with set screws against the original steering shaft tube. You and I would expect a welded, splined or keyway approach. I'm not sure what the present AA kit's steering shaft is about, but a safe "OEM" equivalent method would be my approach.
I am a fan of double-D solid shafts with set screws that use lock nuts. Other acceptable methods include splines, a key way with key and set screws or safe welding that is consistent with OEM standards. Steering is always safety first.
My upper column was the complete OEM '70 GM pickup assembly, already engineered and proven. I used Flaming River double-D lower steering shaft components. AA uses Borgeson, which is also quality product and safe. The concern is safe joints and couplings—especially with manual steering. There is more load on the steering shaft and joints.
For nearly a decade now, Borgeson has been the national supplier for Saginaw manual steering gears. Advance Adapters should have the components that you want. The AA pre-cut steering gear mounting plates are excellent and will require welding to your frame. When installing the gear, I suggest tack welds only until you're confident of the steering shaft and gear alignment.
The one-piece tie-rod and drag link ("short tie-rod") eliminate unnecessary, sloppy bellcrank movement for more positive steering. To avoid bump steer, keep the drag link slope at a reasonable minimum, measured with the Jeep resting at static curb height with springs/axles supporting the vehicle weight.
Moses
-
Tellico40...You're very welcome...My gut pointed to the MLPS, as you had no trouble then a sudden change related to electronic/electrical shifting. You could still shift manually, a good sign. There was no hint of hydraulic or major internal/mechanical trouble. We're both pleased with the "simpler" fix...Yea!
Moses
-
Tellico40...What you describe is generally an electrical problem. The factory troubleshooting steps involve two scan tools that Ford recommends in its PC/ED Manual. One possibility is that the PCM could be defective, but I do not recommend replacing the PCM just yet. You could get a scan, which might pinpoint an electrical trouble source. I would start, however, by checking connectors from the PCM/ECM to the transmission's controls.
The fact that this occurred suddenly points to either a wiring/connector problem or a shift control issue at the transmission. The alignment of the Manual Lever Position Sensor and the manual shift linkage would be my first point to check. There is a manual lever position Gear Position Sensor Adjuster Tool that Ford recommends for this adjustment. Also, and easy to check, the MLP Sensor's retaining bolts should be secure at 55-75 in-lb torque. Check the MLP sensor and its retaining bolts and the alignment between the shift lever and the sensor. The Neutral start issue suggests a linkage or sensor misalignment. Consider the MLP sensor at the transmission, it could be defective.
We all want a simple, inexpensive fix. Without the use of a scan tool to pinpoint transmission trouble codes, I can only suggest mechanical/electrical connector and linkage/sensor alignment issues. Ford makes it clear that everything related to electrical signals or the PCM requires troubleshooting with the scan tools.
You can troubleshoot the relationship between the mechanical shift linkage and MLP Sensor—and even replace the MLP Sensor if you suspect that the sensor is defective. You can check all connections, grounds, continuity (with an ohmmeter) and the solenoid wiring within the transmission. If none of this turns up an obvious issue, a scan tool would be required for troubleshooting other electrical or PCM/ECM related issues.
The good news is that this is likely an electrical issue and not clutches, a loss of pressure or other internal hydraulic issues. If you have those kinds of problems, they show up with a hydraulic pressure check at the transmission test ports.
Moses
-
Yes, Mike, the fall reprieve...I know the feeling. One day this coming week drops to a high of 69 and 35 overnight then creeps back into the low eighties (daytime). We're still at least a month from steady cold. It's optimal now for shop work with the doors open most of the day.
See pages 403-411 in my Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71. I used a 1970 era GM pickup truck steering column and a large diameter Grant steering wheel for my conversion. This worked out nicely for a Saginaw recirculating ball-and-nut manual steering gear conversion. When picking a steering column, measure where you want the steering wheel to stand and how far to the firewall bracket. See the column and steering shaft alignment in my book illustrations and decide whether this works for the V-6 engine's position and clearance in your CJ3B engine bay. Some position the gear differently, we can discuss options.
You want to keep the column complete/intact. My CJ-5 is one example of how this can be done. Advance Adapters (AA) gives you the option of keeping the original vintage Jeep steering column and shortening it. A bearing/bushing gets placed at the AA firewall bracket. AA has traditionally used a bronze bushing here. I prefer either a sealed or greasable bearing at the lower end of the steering column. (The steering shaft below the column usually has sealed joints.) See whether the current AA/Borgeson kits have that feature.
Look closely at my installation. You'll see why and how I use a complete GM steering column to get a column with OEM lower and upper bearings. The Grant steering wheel kit was for the GM pickup truck column. I chose a large diameter Grant steering wheel that works with the installation kit.
Moses
-
Tellico40...So the transmission does shift into reverse? When in an actual gear, there is no slippage or indication of disengagement?
I'll share a troubleshooting strategy in the morning...
Moses
-
Wise move, Mike. Alignment of the gear, steering shaft, column, one piece tie-rod and the rest is important. Make sure the steering gear is on dead center with the front wheels aligned and pointed straight forward.
Are you using a later upper steering column like my book example? That provides a stable mounting arrangement at the firewall. If you follow protocol, you'll be very pleased with the improved steering and superior vehicle control. Are you doing a shackle reversal at the front springs? If so, this would be the time to do it.
Moses
I-H 120 Series Crew Cab 4x4
in International-Harvester 4x4 Light Trucks, Scout and Scout II Forum
Posted
-50 ought to do it! 1961 or '62 would be a Ross or Gemmer steering gear. Code or housing casting number will confirm actual type/application. Found a good parts reference at eBay. Check this out and copy:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184588765889
Looks like the inline six would have been a 240 or 241 (BD design). I worked on these engines, they were rugged four-main bearing OHV design but certainly not world beaters for horsepower. I can understand why your truck got a V-8 transplant, a big one at that!
Moses