Moses Ludel
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Posts posted by Moses Ludel
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The magazine's Honda XR650R began as a potent desert enduro bike with a Baja Designs dual-sport conversion kit. The bike has power to spare, especially after the rebuild of the engine top end and installation of a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft. Machine work by L.A. Sleeve enhanced the performance and reliability of the motorcycle. Now street legal and plated, the platform serves our video filming in the field.
This purpose built motorcycle has the inherent agility and chassis engineering to get the job done in the desert and mountainous terrain. Here, tires are a crucial consideration for a motorcycle that winds up a hundred miles from nowhere in remote backcountry. For dual-sport tires, I picked the Michelin T63 and the Michelin Cross AC10 rubber with Michelin matching tubes.
If you'd like to see how I mounted and tested these tires, go to: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/4WD-Mechanix-Magazine-Tests-Michelin-Dual-Sport-Motorcycle-Tires.html. I put these tires to the test in the dirt and on highway under the brute torque of the Honda XR650R in the Part 2 video.
This Honda XR650R has ample power for additional equipment. For an improved skid plate and engine side guards, plus rear bag racks, I turned to TCI Products. In the Part 2 video, you'll see this equipment and the high quality Nelson-Rigg bags that will tote gear and video equipment into the back country. Expect detailed HD video coverage on the TCI and Nelson-Rigg products shortly...
Moses
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Kevin, it helps to understand the basic premise of how these gauges work. Simply put, with the key "On", the gauge is "hot" all the time. The supplied voltage does not vary. What varies is the ground side in ohms-resistance.
My tool of choice for troubleshooting is a digital volt-ohmmeter. There are several troubleshooting options. With the key "On" check the hot side of each gauge. You should get a constant 12VDC here (unless the gauge system is ballast resisted to a lower voltage on the hot side). Once you confirm correct voltage on the hot side at each gauge, move to an ohms-resistance test of the senders. Or perform this preliminary, simple test: ground each wire leading to a sender, just momentarily, and the gauge should swing to the high side. Do not continue to hold the wire to ground!
Electric gauges have senders that serve like a rheostat, varying the ground completion, if you will. The best example is the fuel tank sender, which you should know intimately by now! That float arm moving the sender mechanism up and down is actually varying the ground resistance. This variable (ohms-resistance) ground signal goes to the gauge as a variable ground signal.
Using the fuel gauge and sender as an example, you should be able to take a fuel gauge sender (outside the fuel tank) and make the gauge go up and down by simply raising and lowering the float arm. You will need to ground the top flange of the sender to the chassis while performing this test.
For the temp gauge, you can simply disconnect the wire from the engine temp sender and hold it to ground momentarily. The gauge should swing to the "H" or hot side. The sender provides a variable ohms-resistance ground.
The oil sender works the same way. You should be able to momentarily ground the sender wire at the oil pressure sender and watch the gauge rapidly move to the high side. This is also a good way to test whether the sender is any good. (There are ohms-resistance tests in the factory workshop manual, if you need those details for testing a sender, let me know.) Be aware that the tiny oil feed hole in the 258/4.2L OE oil pressure sender is notorious for plugging, which prevents the gauge from reading accurately—or at all.
So, if all of the gauges are swinging high, there is a short to ground or a direct ground to chassis/body on the ground side of the gauge wiring. If the problem is isolated to one gauge, that one sender lead may be shorting to ground if the gauge, by itself, swings to the high side.
Using the ohmmeter is very valuable here. You can check a sender wire from the sender all the way to the gauge if necessary. Disconnect the sender wire at the sender. Take your ohmmeter and a jumper lead and check the continuity from one end of this wire to the other. Then check for a short by holding the ohmmeter probes between the detached sender wire and a solid ground. (The meter should be set for continuity.) If the wire is not attached to the sender, there should be no continuity to ground—unless there is a short to ground somewhere between the sender end of the wire and the gauge. A short can mean either a single wire lead or a common short/ground that shorts several gauge wires at one time.
We can discuss this further after you digest this post. Pleased to walk through electrical troubleshooting as needed.
Moses
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Hi, Kevin...That's why I offered the information on sealing lip design and how to recognize how any lip seal fits up. The information is universal and will serve well in your future.
The outer seal with flat plate is outboard/outward of the axle shaft bearing and grease cavity. If the seal fit within the axle housing bore and the plate is flat and secure, the only risk would be wheel bearing grease weeping out into the brake shoe area. There is not a great deal of pressure in this location, so that's not a large threat. As for water forging, there would be protection against water entering the bearing cavity, as the lip is facing toward the water pressure! You also have the minor sealing effect of the dust seal portion of the seal; that may be enough to contain wheel bearing grease. Not the best situation, but probably not bleak, either!
2.72 gears are very tall. Sounds like there will be a lower ratio (numerically higher) gear set in your near future. You hinted about one-piece axle shafts, that would be a welcome upgrade after wrestling with these hubs and tapered axle shafts! The one-piece flanged axle shafts do work well. I recommend the one-piece axle shafts for any tire size over 33" diameter.
Sorry you got misinformation from the local "professionals"...Looking forward to your posts!
Moses
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Where do you each stand here?...I'll watch for Tom58c's response...Glad to pursue this further if there has been no fix for either AW4 transmission...
Moses
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Hi, Josh (MountainHound)...A heads up on lifters: If you did not lay them out in order of their positions on the camshaft, get a new set of lifters. The lifters establish a wear-in pattern that can cause havoc if you mix up the fit between lifters and lobes. Also, with the lifters out, look over the camshaft lobes carefully. See if there is a lobe going away. I'm still looking for that shiny metal that showed up in the crankcase!
Of course, shiny metal can be other things, like the mechanical fuel pump arm or lobe on the camshaft (which you no longer use with your EFI conversion, install a block-off plate at the fuel pump location if you haven't already done so); the distributor drive gear; the rocker arm metal that you know went somewhere (good prospect here!); or timing chain and sprocket wear.
The rocker arms are a good possibility if the camshaft and lifters are not the culprit. Check closer here, Josh.
If you're curious about timing chain wear, I have a quick check that has served me for over 45 years: Pull the distributor cap. Turn the crankshaft (head removed, this is safe and easy) in the normal direction of rotation until the TDC mark just comes up on the crank pulley. Stop at the TDC mark. Note the rotor position. Slowly turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction (backward from normal rotation). Note how far the crank pulley moves before the rotor begins to move. This is the amount of timing chain wear! Allow for the mesh movement between the distributor drive gear and camshaft, the rest is actual play at the timing chain...On a pulley the diameter of a 4.0L EFI conversion kit's pulley, up to 5/8"-3/4" movement at the surface of the pulley would still be tolerable. Beyond that, the chain and sprockets likely need help!
Moses
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The mileage and fuel use is well within norms, at interstate speeds, 19.9 works for me these days!...The cooling is interesting. Good that the fan wants to cycle before engine temp gets excessive. Fans operate from either a coolant sensor at the radiator or block, or they are self-contained with their own thermal sensor for coupling.
I like fan clutches that have thermal couplers. Like the Hayden high performance type and similar designs. They can be quite noisy but at least move air and clear the hot engine bay. We had a Suburban 4WD 2500 series with a small-block 350 V-8 gas engine, a heroic pushrod motor that delivered extraordinary service for its displacement and gasoline design. When the OE fan clutch wore out, I replaced it with a Hayden that made a lot of noise when it came into play but also cooled that engine dramatically and in a hurry!
What I don't like is a total dependency on electric fans, although the Spal fans in the XJ Cherokee work flawlessly. You cannot pull the CFM with electric fans that you can with an engine driven truck fan. The game is all about CFM flow, radiator flow and dissipating BTUs as quickly as possible.
I doubt there is an electric fan that could match the ambient air flow rate you describe. If there is, the amperage draw would require a huge alternator and energy drain on the engine! Years ago, I had a Toyota Land Cruiser project for a magazine and installed an electric fan system (no engine-driven fan) from a popular manufacturer. I discovered that at 30 mph, it made no difference whether the fan was on or not, the engine cooled the same. This was the radiator quality and size, plus good ambient air flow.
Moses
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If it's a "Yes" or "No" question, I say carry the Hi-Lift jack...
In the mid-'90s, I did a publicity trip through the Rubicon Trail with two relatively stock Geo 4WD two-door Trackers. One vehicle was purely stock as specified by GM engineers, only allowed some added skid protection, otherwise bone stock. The slightly modified support vehicle had 29" diameter BFG tires on stock wheels, a 2.5" Calmini prototype lift, a 5000# Warn winch and a prototype Right-Lock rear differential upgrade.
Steve Kramer from Calmini Products, new to the trail, and I wrestled these two vehicles through a marathon of Hi-Lift jacking and winching. I have never used a Hi-Lift more than that trip, and we could not have gone through without it.
That said, I suggest taking the Hi-Lift on any backcountry trip. If you tote it around always, you could be a Johnny on the Spot for stranded highway motorists. I would add, however, that if you do not know how to use a Hi-Lift, don't wait until you're in a challenge to learn how. Both a winch and a Hi-Lift jack should be tested with field practice before real world use or service! Each of these valuable survival tools is capable of providing severe bodily injury to the unprepared or improperly trained user.
As a footnote, I also advise carrying a Pull-Pal for winching. This tool must also be secured safely and properly, but if needed, the Pull-Pal can be invaluable!
Moses
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95Mudder...Have you changed the filter and fluid recently, not just a top-off? A clogged or loose filter can cause this problem, and if left unresolved, you will burn up clutches. The Levritt Transmission idea is making even more sense, getting a fluid and filter change with an inspection at the same time.
There are distinct causes for loss of drive. However, the fact that it does this on a grade raises suspicions about fluid level and the ability to pick up fluid. Can you drive safely into Reno and have Levritt drop the transmission pan? The symptoms are not good...
Moses
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David, for the Honda XR650R, the ignition fires on each TDC of the piston, two times during the four strokes. Specifically, the ignition fires at the top of the compression stroke and top of the exhaust stroke. The exhaust stroke firing keeps the spark plug cleaner and otherwise will not affect performance.
Simply put, for valve timing, as long as the piston is at top-dead-center (TDC) on the Honda XR650R, you can align the camshaft sprocket properly. Your only concern is to have the camshaft and its sprocket tensioned on the pull side. To accomplish this, always bring the piston to TDC without going too far and needing to back up. This way, there is pull tension on the camshaft sprocket and no chain slack. This prevents a valve timing error due to chain slack.
Following the camshaft and sprocket installation, I always recheck the valve timing after installing the chain tensioner. After installing the tensioner, rotate the crankshaft in its normal direction of rotation, orienting the cam sprocket marks properly. Bring the piston slowly to TDC and stop there. Tension applied at the backside of the chain, the cam sprocket timing marks should be exactly where you want them with the engine running.
Moses
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According to AMC, tightening is always to the stick-out length of the shaft threads beyond the hub flange. This can take enormous torque to accomplish. The starting torque is 250 foot-pounds, and that's to start only. At that point, you use a ruler or depth gauge/bridge to carefully tighten beyond this point. You tighten until the thread stick out length is correct...I've used a floor jack handle as an extension on a 3/4-inch drive breaker bar with a 6-point impact socket to reach final torque!
Anyone old enough to remember the air-cooled Volkswagen era knows about long breaker bars on axle hardware. For loosening, I use my air impact gun, very strong. For installing the nut to proper thread stick-out length tightness, air wrenches/guns seldom develop enough torque. It's been a hand operation for me!
Moses
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Rocket Doctor...I've been sidelined with several HD video projects involving products and installations, sorry for the delay. I have a good deal of experience at restoring castings, mostly from work with vintage and obsolete parts. Personally, I TIG cast iron repairs, as the heat affected zone (HAZ) is narrow to the margins of the weld. I have fixed large castings and smaller ones, with several projects presented at the magazine.
Here are some videos for your review. The actual block repair is at a local CAT repair facility and performed by its staff. The 2nd and 3rd videos are yours truly doing TIG repairs on cast iron:
In this HD video, a damaged Caterpillar engine block gets repaired with TIG welding process and Weld Mold Company 700 and 750 filler rod. See the block fix that saved thousands of dollars, performed on the shop floor at Brad Falin's heavy equipment repair facility, Fernley, Nevada.www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Iron-Engine-Block-Casting-TIG-Weld-Repair.htmlAt the 2011 Midwest Willys Reunion, Moses Ludel presented details on TIG welding iron castings. In this video you will discover how GTAW-TIG process restored a large iron axle casting.www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-TIG-Repair-of-Large-Iron-Castings.htmlSometimes a gear or transmission case is damaged and obsolete. In this slideshow, Moses Ludel demonstrates how to TIG repair a gear and broken transmission case.www.4wdmechanix.com/Gear-and-Transmission-Case-Restoration.htmlThe primary challenge with cast iron welding is the iron base metal's inability to expand. Gray, non-ductile iron like your block will not expand and contract well. A specialty filler rod must be used to compensate. I have used Weld Mold Company's 700 and 750 series rod as shown in the videos. This is the best material I've found, as it forms graphite and allows cool down without contracting and cracking the casting adjacent to the weld. It is also an improvement in tensile strength over the base metal.These Weld Mold fillers can be used with minimal preheating (often none) as opposed to classic pre-heating or even in-the-furnace welding of castings. Once you start welding with 700 and 750, successive passes can nearly always be made without re-heating the metal. I always encase the finished and freshly welded piece in a Kevlar welding blanket to allow very slow cool down without exposure to drafts or breezes. The iron axle in the slideshow/video took nine hours to cool down after each day I worked on it.When you're through watching the video, visit the Weld Mold Company website for details on niche filler materials. They service the precision tool and die industry, where exotic metals and alloys are often attached and welded to common base materials.An option to welding is the Lock-N-Stitch technique, which is similar to what machine shops do with exhaust valve seat cracking and block or head minor cracks. This is typically a drilling, overlapping screws or plugs and finishing process. It works well on block castings in non-structurally supporting areas. If the block crack can affect the structural integrity of the cylinders, I always TIG repair with cast iron filler like 700 and 750!The 700 and 750 fillers are available for several welding processes, not just TIG. So if you prefer SMAW (stick), GMAW (MIG) or even oxy-acetylene, you can take that approach. Again, my preference is TIG (GTAW) process.Moses -
We very much look forward to your participating. Like me, RareCJ8 has been very busy, he's active at the Sierra trails this time of year. We each went on the Rubicon Trail in June, Mark has a lot planned.
Forums should support their members' interests and needs. I encourage your involvement, Kevin, you have a great Jeep CJ8 Scrambler and live at a remarkable area of the country.
Welcome!
Moses
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Trust your back is better, Errol...I've had a busy month, looking forward to your posts...
Moses
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Hi, David...I waited to respond. I've mounted and tested Michelin T63 tires on the Honda XR650R. This is a bona fide 50/50 dirt and pavement use, DOT rated tire. See my mounting article and video at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/4WD-Mechanix-Magazine-Tests-Michelin-Dual-Sport-Motorcycle-Tires.html. The sequel is the road test video now in post-production edit phase.
Dual sport tires are often known to wear quickly, and the DOT-approved dirt tires wear even faster. I did my homework and went with the T63 tires in the sizes noted at the video. This week, I did extensive dirt and pavement testing, and the HD video results should be uploaded to the magazine within a week. In a nutshell, the T63 works very well on pavement and requires, like all other dual-sport tires, some riding adjustments off-pavement.
Any tire in this niche will wear faster than a full asphalt design; however, the Michelin T63 gets a lot of positive reviews from users. My preliminary riding, mostly asphalt until this week, has shown negligible wear. I shared with "Forman" (KLR650 owner and fellow forum member) the weight recently added to the XR650R. I installed TCI Products' rack and skid plate systems (see the HD video coverage shortly) with Nelson-Rigg bags. I'm about 340 estimated pounds "wet" weight without cargo in the bags or me on the bike. I'll hold to 40-50 pounds of luggage/video equipment, which will bump the weight to 380-390 pounds—plus me.
Frankly, in tests without cargo in the bags, the added/estimated 340 pounds wet weight is not that noticeable. This fresh XR650R engine is a beast, really wants to run through the torque band, which is incredibly strong. I'm not sure where the Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft comes into play, it will be interesting to compare our two bikes when you get yours running...The camshaft is supposed to improve lower end to midrange rpm torque, and this engine has plenty of both.
So, for the weight and load demands, and the overall compromise inherent to any dual-sport tire for the dirt, I'm okay with my choice. I do adjust the throttle a lot off-pavement, but that's the monstrous torque wanting to spin the rear tire in any gear. You can literally steer the XR650R with the throttle—instantly. This is more about the XR650R's power than the tires.
For primarily dirt use, Michelin has the Cross AC10 tires, a true enduro tire with 90/10 rating for dirt versus asphalt riding. I have a set of these with heavy duty tubes for backup. They would be used if I have a lengthy, strictly dirt trip planned.
The Nelson-Rigg bags and TCI equipment transformed my bike into a bona fide dual sport for adventure riding. Really like the looks and performance of this machine! Remarkably versatile and adaptable...It's now the video filming platform that I set out to build.
Moses
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Hi, Alberto...I've had Jeep limited slips that required two of these 4 oz. bottles of the modifier. This was true for our 2002 Jeep Liberty, bought new. At 30,000 miles, it started the notchy, grabby rear axle thing you've described. I added modifier, the troubles ended. The problem was very common to that generation of the Liberty. Two bottles seemed to work well.
If this has not cleared up, and if you're sure this is a friction plate automatic factory locker, try one more bottle of the friction modifier.
Trust you're enjoying the summer weather at Colombia. Must be fun this time of year!
Moses
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Aaron, does this shimmy continue once it sets in? Or does it go away after 50 mph?
This could be a tire issue. I would have the wheels and tires spun on a motorized balancer. Check for out-of-round, radial run-out and signs of belt separation. Belt separation, rim run-out or severe imbalance could set this thing off. Also, I'd like to know what degrees of caster this front end now runs. From the alignment, please share the specs.
Death wobble, in my view, is either bona fide ball joint or tie-rod issues, caster angle (not enough positive degrees) or steering linkage issues. You've pored over the steering linkage and replaced the ball joints. When they did the alignment was this a 4-wheel "thrust" alignment or simply a toe-set? Reputable shops provide a printout of the results. I'd like to see the caster, camber, toe, SAI and thrust specs. You could have a rear axle shift or thrust issue.
Let's eliminate possibilities, beginning with the tires and wheels.
Moses
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Hi, David...I've been very busy with Michelin T63 tire testing on the Honda XR650R, you'll enjoy the road testing and also the addition of TCI Products racks and Nelson-Rigg bags...
As for jetting, here is a PDF with Euro and Australia specifications:
Honda XR650R Specifications.pdf
You should have a 175 main jet, a 65 pilot jet and the needle clip in the third groove from the top. You'll see this listed by market in the specs. Also, I included many of the other detail specs that you might find useful to your project.
Thanks for posting, I'm back from the tests and HD video filming, so my responses will be timely. You'll get a real kick out of the off-pavement and on-pavement testing. Stay tuned, I'll be doing the post production video edit work this week!
Moses
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Hi, Kevin! Sorry nobody jumped into this question, your photos and questions did post...I'll answer personally.
The inner seal is a light tap/fit with a suitable driver. Often, you can find a large socket that will work here. The seal must be driven squarely into the bore. There should be some resistance, not a lot though or the seal will distort. If the seal has a coated jacket, you do not need to add sealant at the outer edge of the jacket. If there is no coating, put a film of Permatex 3D or Super Flex on the outer jacket face before driving the seal into position. Look in the bore, you should see where the original seal jacket aligned. You'll drive the new seal into that position in the bore.
The outer flange seal has the raised portion of the seal facing outward. The flat surface faces inward. In your two detailed photos, the first photo (on the left) is how the flange seal should appear when installed. The thin lip of the seal is a dust barrier, and the heavier lip is the actual oil seal.
In the case of the inner and outer seal, make note of the heavier oil seal lips. The flare of the seal's lip faces inward in each case. This is to retain oil. Imagine placing the seal in "backwards". The oil would easily press past the seal lip. With the seal lips facing inward, they contain the oil.
An example: On engine seals, where there is pressure in the crankcase, the lip also faces inward. The pressure within the crankcase makes the seal lip press against the shaft. Envision placing the seal in backward at the timing cover or crankshaft rear main seal. The lip would open or spread from internal crankcase pressure, and oil would pour from the seal.
So, again, make sure the flared seal lips face inward on both axle seals. Try to position the inner seal close to where it rode on the axle shaft originally. If there is a noticeable seal groove on the axle shaft, you may be able to adjust the seal's position slightly to run on a fresh section of the axle shaft's polished surface.
Make certain that you pack the axle shaft bearings properly! If you note the design, the bearing is outboard (outward) of the inner axle shaft seal and inboard (inside) the outer flange seal. In this space, there is no axle shaft lubricant reaching the bearing. (The inner seal prevents this from occurring.) The lifespan of the axle shaft bearing(s) depend upon proper grease packing of each axle shaft bearing. There is no provision for lubricating these axle shaft bearings other than removing the axle shaft. IF lubed properly, the bearing and grease will go a long while between services. If you need tips on bearing packing, please ask...
I'll watch for your reply and questions, Kevin. We'll make sure you get a prompt response! Thanks for participating at the forums, we look forward to your topics and posts.
Moses
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Hi, 21114yj, and welcome to the forums! There is a long string of discussion on the 2.5L TBI at this Wrangler forum and articles at the magazine. Below are two links to popular articles on troubleshooting 2.5L TBI:
Tune-up and troubleshooting the fuel-and-spark system is crucial to reliable Jeep performance. This section focuses on Jeep engine tuning, including ignition and fuel system troubleshooting, diagnostics and repairs.www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Engine-Tuning,-Diagnostics-and-Troubleshooting.htmlFrom 1987-90, the Jeep Wrangler 2.5L models use throttle body injection. In this feature, Moses Ludel shares tuning, troubleshooting and diagnostics procedures for this engine.www.4wdmechanix.com/Tuning-and-Troubleshooting-the-2.5L-Jeep-TBI-Four.htmlBefore plunging further into the TBI system, you did clean the fuel tank when you installed the new pump? If there is a pickup restriction, that's always an issue. Sounds like you've already pursued that troubleshooting possibility.
Often overlooked, and the symptoms can mimic a fuel supply problem, there is the epidemic issue of poor electrical grounds on the YJ Wrangler. I would check all of your engine, body and frame ground connections under the hood, in particular the junction near the oil dipstick and the firewall grounds. These are notorious for corroding and creating a voltage drop. On a 12VDC electrical system, grounds are as critical as hot wires.
Make sure the under dash ECU ground is also good. Paint, rust and corrosion each can cause havoc. If the ECU gets false or strange voltage signals, there can be trouble with the fuel supply system, the ignition and so forth. YJ Wrangler drivability issues can frequently be traced to bad electrical grounds.
Let us know what works. Look over the other 2.5L TBI troubleshooting threads at this YJ Wrangler forum. I'll gladly respond if you still have questions.
Moses
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MountainHound...I read your metal in pan comments, likely camshaft/lift shredding (shiny steel) unless the material looks like bearing Babbitt (copper and alloy). In any case, the engine needs to come apart. The 4.0L head conversion requires specific needs like plugging off unused cooling port holes and such. You likely know all of that. My video/vlog at the magazine covers the Jeep inline six valve clearance issue and does explain the overall lifter clearance needs. The head, head gasket and block milling can each change the lifter clearance, as you note. You were on the right track here, MountainHound.
If it makes sense and you have access to a leakdown tester, I would run a leakdown test on the existing engine. Sounds like the camshaft lost the #1 exhaust lobe. If the valves are actually sealing with each piston at TDC on its firing stroke, you can get a rough idea of the lower engine condition. Then again, given the metal findings, you might as well tear the engine down and do the inspection—or use this as a core for a rebuilt short or long block. You've changed the head, and some shops will not accept a "mixed" core, engine block assembly from one era, head from another era or engine design. In your case, the 4.0L head does have value and so does the original 4.2L head core.
When you get the 4.0L head modifications right, many like this combustion chamber improvement, so rebuilding your engine could include the 4.0L head. As for what year engine to get, any 1981-90 4.2L core will do. They are plentiful out there. The mate-up to your existing 1979 bellhousing and shim plate, flywheel, T18A and the Scout Dana 300 should all work out, pay attention to the crankshaft/flywheel stick-out distance from the block on your replacement engine. Make sure the flange is at the same stick-out position as your '79. Also use the correct pilot bearing in the crankshaft to align the T18A input shaft properly. If all this currently works with the '79 block and crankshaft, you should be able to duplicate that with the later core. If you decide to rebuild your '79 engine, that's fine, too!
The valve cover issue goes away with the 1987-90 YJ Wrangler application. It uses an aluminum valve cover similar to a 4.0L. There is also the time-honored use of an earlier head, like your '79 type or up through 1986, with an aftermarket Clifford or Offenhauser aluminum valve cover: Not as many bolt holes but still a major improvement!
Glad you'll stick with the Mopar EFI, there is really no better system. You've done all the legwork already, and the system is in place and working. Good job!
Moses
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Richard68...How's this parting out project going? Any responses? There are some prime I-H legacy parts here...Glad you find this forum helpful, trust you're reaching your market.
Moses
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Hi, Allonsy, welcome to the forums! I have included Mopar EFI conversion installation key points in several articles at the magazine. Could not go into great detail because my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual, 1972-86 and Jeep Owner's Bible each contain details on the installation of a two rail (earlier) system. (The Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual has actual installation steps, the Jeep Owner's Bible is a system overview.) Copyright does not allow me to reprint from my Bentley Publishers books. The CJ book would be valuable for your needs; if you have a 1987-90 YJ Wrangler, the fuel pump replacement article (shared in links below) would be a helpful supplement.
There are two basic Mopar EFI systems. (Actually three, if you include the original Mopar throttle body conversion system with Electromotive components and a Holley TBI unit, available in the early 1990s from Mopar Performance.) Of the two Mopar EFI/MPI systems, the earlier MPI version patterns from a 1994-95 Jeep YJ Wrangler or similar XJ Cherokee 4.0L, and this is a two rail system with a return line to the fuel tank from the engine. The pressure regulator is at the engine. This system, uniquely, uses mostly off-the-shelf Jeep YJ or XJ parts.
The later system is similar in many ways but is a single rail design with 1997-up TJ Wrangler and XJ Cherokee 4.0L off-the-shelf parts. This system has a regulator that mounts near the fuel tank. The modified regulator is essentially the (1997-up) TJ and XJ fuel pump module's regulator. Single rail systems regulate fuel at the tank (or an externally mounted regulator in this kit), with only one fuel line going to the EFI rail at the engine.
If you're either troubleshooting an existing system or need details on the kits, see my links below for some highlights. I am pleased to answer questions about these EFI/MPI systems if you're in a troubleshooting situation. Post your question(s) at the forum, I'll be glad to answer. Meanwhile, these articles should be helpful.
See these articles:
In this installation for an '87-'90 YJ Wrangler, I use the Mopar factory fuel pump module with an MPI conversion. The "kit" comes with an externally mounted fuel pump. This alternative, using the higher pressure designated pump for MPI, works with these models. For a 1980-86 CJ, there is no provision for the in-tank fuel pump module, and you need an external fuel pump, mounted near the fuel tank:
Jeep in-tank fuel pumps can be difficult to troubleshoot and service. In this article, Moses Ludel discusses fuel pump diagnosis, repairs and pump replacement steps.Each of these articles will help explain or illustrate various features on the Mopar EFI/MPI systems. You'll find some installation notes, too. The step-by-step installation for an '80-'86 CJ (similar in many ways to the 1987-90 4.2L YJ Wrangler install) is in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86. If you want specific answers about your project, just ask here at this forum:The Jeep inline six stroker motor with EFI or MPI develops maximum performance when tuned properly. Selecting the correct MPI injectors and matching the fuel supply system to the bigger engine and higher horsepower output require the modifications described here.www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.htmlHere, I do an overview of the various aftermarket EFI systems, including Mopar MPI:In this coverage, we install the MSD Atomic EFI system on a Jeep 4.2L inline six-cylinder engine. The retrofit is similar for all Jeep 258 engines built from 1971-90. See detailed how-to steps for this 1989 Jeep YJ Wrangler installation.www.4wdmechanix.com/MSD-Atomic-EFI-for-Jeep-4.2L-Inline-Six-2.htmlShould you convert your 4.2L Jeep inline six to EFI? In this feature, Moses Ludel contrasts the BBD carburetor and the Mopar Performance EFI conversion kit.www.4wdmechanix.com/Carburetion-Versus-EFI-Conversion-for-the-4.2L-Jeep-Inline-Six.htmlFuel pump and system pressure is different for carburetion, TBI and MPI. In this article, Moses Ludel discusses fuel pressure requirements for various Jeep engines and chassis designs.www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.htmlTrust this helps, Allonsy! Please share details about your project...Looking forward to your participation at the forums...
Moses
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Yeah, Forman!!! Knew you could do it, knew you'd be thrilled with the results. The XR650R Honda is a beast, and 40 mpg will likely be the best mileage after break-in from what other owners share. You're doing what the KLR is famous for: 50-plus mpg. There's a big replacement fuel tank in my future, the stock 2.6 gallons won't cut it at rural Nevada! It would be great if we were less miles apart and able to share some miles!
I changed the oil filter at 75 miles, just precautionary but comforted that I did. The oil is still spotless, a sign of correct jetting and no oil burning or blowby from the first start-up. Tune and jetting are very important, the Honda is dialed properly and wants to do nothing but start readily and run strongly and smoothly across the entire rpm band!
I, too, am having difficulty keeping the lid on it. I did a test of Michelin T63 tires that will be at the magazine shortly. In demonstrating the tires' performance on- and off-pavement, I found the engine anxious to pull through the gears at what I would estimate was 5,000-5,500 RPM (no tach) per gear. No redline stuff. The torque is so strong that one challenge is preventing rear wheel spin off-pavement. I'm sure the Baja racers discovered this early on, you can steer this bike readily with the throttle! The video footage is quite impressive, it actually looks sped up, and believe me, it isn't! Like I shared, this thing is a beast...
In the process of fulfilling the original goal of toting video gear into the backcountry, I turned to TCI Products (saddle and tail racks) and Nelson-Rigg (bags). The workmanship and design of each product line are very impressive, I filmed the installation and set-up of the racks and bags, will add this to the magazine HD video coverage shortly. Incredible equipment if you need to tote gear for your trips. I also tossed the factory plastic skid plate in favor of a precision fit TCI Products aluminum skid plate with sturdy engine side case guards. That's another installation HD video pending!
I really thought all this add-on weight for racks, gear, bags and the skid plate would affect performance. Without gear, just the skid plate, racks and bags, I would say the weight increase is around 35-40 pounds. This still has the bike under 340 pounds wet. Add video and camping gear for another 40-50 pounds, and I should be under 400 pounds (plus rider weight). This would be more like 380-390 pounds wet, maybe as much as 395 pounds.
Note: Advertised dry weight of the Honda XR650R was 277 pounds in enduro off-road factory trim. With a Baja Designs dual-sport conversion kit, lubricants and fuel, the cycle set around 300 pounds before adding the TCI Products skid plate, racks and bags.
Add my weight for another 188 pounds in riding apparel. (I'm working on this live weight, would like to be around 180 pounds soaked with all riding apparel.) I'll likely put this whole package, including me, the bags and gear, plus a full tank of fuel, on an accurate scale and determine the "real" wet weight for over-the-road.
The moral of the story is that the added weight has minimal impact on this cycle's stellar acceleration, braking and overall performance. As for handling, I do compensate for the cargo, but even that's minimized by the saddle bags, as they ride lower and have less effect on the center-of-gravity.
I am a happy camper, and like you're discovering, Forman, the work applied is more than worth it...I look forward to any and every opportunity to ride this bike!
Again, congratulations on a job well done! I could see your attention to detail and workmanship in the photos you shared with fellow forum members. I would not hesitate to have you join me on a "100 miles from nowhere" ride, traveling where reliability is crucial to getting home.
Ride safely and enjoy every mile with that KLR dual-sport moto, Forman! It's a great machine for your climate and terrain! As the miles and interesting trips unfold, we'll strike up new post topics at the forum travel and dual-sport adventure sections! Keep sharing your tech projects, too...
Moses
P.S.: I'll change to either full synthetic or Chevron 'Isosyn' Supreme motor oil soon. I believe the key to engine and piston ring life on these higher revving motorcycle engines is in the motor oil. A friend at Warn Industries has a Honda XR650R. He said switching to Amsoil synthetic made his right leg significantly cooler! If exhaust temp dropped this noticeably, this means the engine friction and wear dropped as well. I'd like to run some exhaust temp tests to validate this phenomenon, before and after running synthetic oil.
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Update...For those interested in the magazine's Honda XR650R dual-sport, the engine is now built, the cycle is highway plated and on the road and trail. See engine work coverage at the magazine and also the comprehensive how-to HD video, a 54-minute streaming video rental from Vimeo On Demand: http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/hondaxr650r. Performing an XR650R engine top end rebuild? You'll want to rent this video.
I am very pleased with my parts and machining choices, this is a highly versatile motorcycle!
Moses
Gremlins in Jeep CJ Fuel and Temperature Gauges
in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models
Posted
Good, Kevin...You really need a volt-ohmmeter, digital variety for accuracy at the lowest, most sensitive readings. We'll move the discussion to the tools forum when you're primed and have the right volt-ohmmeter. (I can even make suggestions here if you're shopping for the tool.)
You will be amazed what a volt-ohmmeter can share compared to either a voltmeter (only) or a continuity tester. We can even discuss the lamp load test, a simple, homespun tool that can unearth the deepest gremlins, like an open or weak wire or circuit that seems to appear intermittently.
Happy to pick this up when you're ready!
Moses