Moses Ludel
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Posts posted by Moses Ludel
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Hi, jawalter! This is a tricky one. Since you're using a hand gun, there's less risk of over-greasing. This is not part of the U-joint, so don't expect grease to weep from cross-joint seals! You're basically replenishing grease here. Do not apply too much pressure or a large volume of grease. Grease this fitting routinely, just a bit at a time.
I use a Lincoln grease tip kit, which I acquired specifically for the ball end extension to service these CV joints. I ultimately found that the pinpoint tip works better, held steadily and with straight-in force. Stay centered on the tiny ball within the cup of this grease fitting. I've had the best success with the pinpoint tip, using a quality, high pressure, professional grade hand grease gun.
The grease type is especially critical in this application. I used Texaco Starplex II for years and have experimented with some non-petroleum, bio-degradable types of late. This joint does need attention, though it's not under real load unless in 4x4 mode. Fortunately, on your K5 Blazer, you have free wheeling front hubs. Unlocking the hubs in 2WD mode, the front driveline does not spin continuously—like it does on my Dodge Ram 3500, XJ Cherokee and other 4x4s without free-wheeling front hubs. Lucky Blazer!
Moses
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jj_jeep...You know, that cracked manifold would make the engine run poorly. The dilution of exhaust and poor back pressure distorts the oxygen sensor readings. It likely did smooth out, and your "knocking" or ping should be gone if that's the case. Fuel efficiency might even pick up. The cracks were not minor and affected some cylinders and not others.
Very pleased that the job turned out well. The photos will be helpful to others. You're building on your automotive/Jeep skills and becoming quite proficient here! Who knows, that high mileage 4.0L may still have some life left. You certainly gave it a boost!
Moses
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Welcome to the forums, David! I'm trusting others will jump into this discussion, and if not, I'll probe into the Mopar solutions or possible conversion components available through Mopar.
I would caution that ethanol is very rough on fuel systems, a contributor to corrosion and clogging. On engines with carburetors, ethanol left for any period of time in the fuel bowls will clog jets. I know this from personal experience, especially with smaller engines and powersports vehicles, though it could just as easily happen with automotive and truck engines. Please do some research on the downside of ethanol. A search online would turn up a wealth of details. Try search keywords like "Damage from Ethanol Fuel" or "Ethanol and corrosion".
I'm very glad you're a member and am pleased to help answer any questions. Let's see what others say first.
Moses
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David...Flashers are like a cut-out relay. When they reach a certain load/amperage (which translates as resistance and heat that make the contact open), the lamp-on cycle breaks. Contact cools and returns to a connection, the lamp goes back on. Cycle time depends upon contact resistance and the lamp amperage load applied. Primitive and effective, a flasher with the right amperage or resistance setting should work. Do you have the factory wiring schematic to know which wires apply and where?
Moses
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David...The source for all of my dual-sport conversion products is Baja Designs. They offer kits for most popular dirt bikes, including my North American XR650R. The Baja Designs systems do use a Ni-Cad battery pack, as lighting with the engine not running is a legal requirement. Does your Euro model run solely off the stator?
There are common 3-wire turn signal flashers used in 12V and 6V automotive applications. Some are cylindrical in shape, others are Bosch-type and look like a relay. See your local auto parts source.
At the Baja Designs website, you can drill down and access PDF wiring schematics for their various kits. See how the dual-sport conversion drawings compare with your system. Baja Designs does have flashers (check prong count and fit), which are available separately. (These may be common automotive source.) An Email to the tech line saves long distance phone charges and could turn up some answers about the compatibility of Baja Designs flashers with your system. The website is: http://www.bajadesigns.com. See the motorcycle dual-sports section.
Let me know if you need more info and how this turns out.
Moses
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Really nice footage, David...I recognize both the drone perspective and the GoPro for its wide-angle view. Your cam operator made much of the footage look like helicopter vantage, a real accomplishment!
I film with a Hero3, the new model is the Hero4, and I'm on for that one, too! GoPro will have a large booth at the SEMA Show, Las Vegas next month. It's like a magnet at this automotive and motorsports show. GoPro has become the norm for action filming, 4x4 and motorcycle racers use it routinely. I use the GoPro for close-up and flowing work as well, including some segments of the HD how-to videos in true 1080P. Alongside an HMC40 Panasonic camcorder and complete Nikon D7100 system, the GoPro rounds out my video equipment for the shop studio and in the field!
For your riding angles on the ground, try a GoPro Chesty harness rather than the helmet mount. It's a handy and "real" perspective, I used the Chesty in the Michelin tire testing and road shots of the TCI/Nelson Rigg equipment.
The GoPro is the moving footage on the bike. In the Nelson-Rigg video, watch from 6:01 onward to end, you'll like the handheld GoPro close-ups and walk-around plus Chesty perspective on asphalt! I do use the optional GoPro LCD back for framing and viewing the close-up and walk-around scenes. For the road, the GoPro battery lasts much longer without the LCD back in place!
There's a new 360-degree pole mount for the helmet available from a 3rd party: www.killershot.com. This is counterweighted, you've got to see it! For catching wheels and all angles of riding as a solitary cam unit in motion, this is the tool. The Go Swivel can provide your front shots, ground level. Share the link and point to the Go Swivel. I'm getting one soon. One caution: Avoid being seen in public with this Go Swivel "propeller" on your helmet!
Moses -
60Bubba (Case)...Yes, there is a return spring (Mopar Part #J5351050, likely available in the Jeep aftermarket as well). Here is the pedal assembly and all related parts, the spring is item #11:
1981-86 CJ-7 Brake Pedal Assembly.pdf
This will help clarify the location of parts, too. Very pleased that you have a safe, quality brake system now!
Moses
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Case...I hinted that your system looks like the later Mopar EFI Conversion Kit. This was a change in the fuel supply system and the induction manifold and fuel rail. You should still have the 60-Way (pin), single plug PCM.
I've tried to guess why the parts change, the two-rail system (1991-95 YJ Wrangler) works well. Likely Mopar no longer wanted to support the 1994-1995 intake manifold, fuel injection rail design and hoses needed for the original kit, which consisted of off-the-shelf 1994/95 YJ Wrangler and XJ Cherokee parts. The OBD-II rulings may also have influenced this change. Regardless, think of your system as essentially off-the-shelf 1997-99 TJ Wrangler. This is handy when you need a sensor or individual components. Note that there is a "custom" fuel pressure regulator near the tank, mounted externally.
This is actually a modified 1997-up TJ tank regulator that normally fits atop the in-tank fuel pump on a single rail factory EFI system. The modification makes this a standalone piece that does not mate with the in-tank pump module like a TJ Wrangler. There is no regulator on the fuel rail, the item that looks like the two-rail regulator is actually a fuel pressure "damper" to stabilize fuel pressure.
Your later 4.0L engine accommodates this system readily, I did a similar approach for my son-in-law's '87 YJ Wrangler, using a mid-'90s replacement 4.0L long block with your later Mopar EFI single rail package. This made the changeover easier. He's at San Diego County and has passed the referee station inspection and subsequent smog checks. Needless to say, his engine burns very clean, it should meet 1997-up TJ tailpipe readings with the cat in place. This beats both the '87 2.5L TBI engine and the 4.2L carbureted engine.
A 4.6L build would be practical if you ever rebuild this 4.0L engine. Beyond the 4.2L crankshaft and right piston/rod combination for correct block deck height, you'd only need to change out the injectors. I talk about this in depth at the magazine. (At the magazine Search Box, simply insert the keyword: 4.6L...You'll get plenty of returns links!) Presumably, with these replacement injectors, the tailpipe readings are within bounds for smog inspections. I've heard no reports to the contrary.
Moses
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Wow, 60Bubba, this is a substantial upgrade! The master cylinder looks larger capacity, the booster dwarfs the OEM.
As a footnote, there should be a slight amount of pushrod play at the master cylinder with the pedal completely retracted. If it was factory set, it should include this slight play. The play allows the master cylinder piston(s) to retract completely and not block the compensating port. If the pushrod does not retract completely, it can trap brake fluid in the system and cause brake drag or even wheel lockup.
This is a general concern around setting up a master cylinder pushrod. Power booster pushrods into the master cylinder are set with a gauge and specific height, presumably yours was gauged if sold as a master cylinder and booster assembly. (Manual brakes simply rely on the pedal free-play, which your system requires, too. Pedal free play on your CJ should be 1/16" to 1/4". This is movement felt before the pedal has any kind of resistance from the master cylinder.) The play I'm describing is simply to assure full piston retraction when you release the brake pedal. Worth a peek.
Moses
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jj_jeep...Should be deep cup and readily available. Remove your old ones first and compare depth of edge with new plugs. Both types should be at the local NAPA store if reasonably stocked.
The block heater has an expander that loosens with the bolt in the element's center. Loosen the bolt (not completely, or you may be digging parts out of the block passageway!). The replacement unit uses an O-ring, and if the OEM has the O-ring, you may be able to "repair" your existing heater if the element still works. The leak could be a loose or deteriorating O-ring. I'd take the unit out if it's leaking and go from there. You may be able to simply replace the O-ring with a reasonably heat resistant and anti-freeze suitable O-ring. I looked in the Mopar parts catalog, they do not show a replacement O-ring. You'll have to play this one out and see what's in there.
Do not attempt to "rotate" the block heater as you would a freeze plug. It will come out and go back into the bore straight, just as you suspect. It can be indexed if necessary but not pivoted. Do not hit the heater element with a punch or hammer!
Moses
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This is very helpful information for other CJ owners, 60Bubba! What a dramatic difference, and clearly from just the booster and master cylinder change. Iron is still my favorite master cylinder material.
The MBM master cylinder and Restoration Performance dual diaphragm booster sound like the way to go. The OEM boosters and check valves are now long in the tooth and likely in need of replacement. Good to change out the master cylinder at the same time, as the added boost would overwhelm worn master cylinder seals. Cost, overall, seems reasonable.
As for the switch to synthetic brake fluid, unless stated that it will mix readily with conventional DOT 3 or DOT 4, you did need to remove and flush out all of the original fluid. DOT 5, specifically silicone brake fluid, is not compatible with DOT 3 or DOT 4. DOT 5 must be replenished or topped off with DOT 5 as well. Never mix this chemistry!
I like a vacuum bleed, as it pulls all old fluid and debris from the wheel cylinders and caliper chambers. Pressure bleeding will force debris to the cup seal edges of the wheel cylinders or the caliper piston gaps and leave it there. For a complete fluid change, I use a pneumatic vacuum bleeder that has a large dirty fluid reservoir, bleeding from the caliper and wheel cylinder bleeder valves.
Please share some photos of the new master cylinder and booster in place! Use the "More Reply Options" below the editor box (right side) to find and place your photos.
Moses
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I am pleased that moving the intake manifold out of the way and plastic tying it to the core support rod did the trick, jj_jeep! This is such a time and labor saver. The complete removal of the intake manifold and keeping track of all the components can be a major chore. The old exhaust manifold is suitable for framing or hanging on the garage wall...Just kidding, it's truly ready for scrapping!
From the great photos, your freeze plugs look shot. You need to replace these plugs while they're easily accessible. By now, you've discovered the coolant leak, right? For those unaware (Florida and Southern California Jeep owners), the last freeze plug looking device with the electrical connector is the block heater. Is that your leak source? It looks so, but this is the more costly piece to install. If the heater unit has a cinch/expander bolt, try carefully tightening the expander. This may reseal the plug. If you're not confident of the seal, and if you use the block heater, price a new heater unit. (Here's the best deal I could find for a genuine Mopar assembly: http://www.amazon.com/Cherokee-Engine-Heater-Mopar-82201506/dp/B007NPL3OM. There are aftermarket units available for much less. I'm use an aftermarket Kat block heater on the Cherokee, no trouble to date, though the Mopar unit is more rugged.) Each of the other freeze plugs is a typical cup type. Since you are likely going to replace any suspect plugs, I'll share my technique:
1) Take a blunt or rounded punch and tap just inboard of the cup lip (on the dished area). Do not punch a hole through the cup, you want to rotate the cup in the block bore and avoid driving the cup into the cooling passage if possible.
2) Whether the plug drives into the passage or rotates as desired, I grab the cup edge with a channel lock pliers. Prying carefully, avoid scratching or marring the cup bore in the block, rock the channel lock's head to apply leverage. (Pry against the block and not the bore.) Cup perpendicular to the block now, pull the cup outward through the plug bore. Do not leave broken cup pieces in the block, they will obstruct coolant flow.
3) Take crocus or emery paper (preferred for a corroded surface) and clean up the plug bores. Avoid gouging or making deep scratches. The new plug must seal completely in the bore.
4) I coat the outside edge of the new steel cup (not brass at this mileage, steel is stiffer and holds shape better than brass) with traditional Permatex Super 300 Form-a-Gasket sealant or equivalent. I do not use RTV sealant here. Coat evenly and apply a thin additional film around the block freeze plug bore. You don't want excess amounts, as this will wind up in the block and can migrate and clog the radiator tubes.
5) There are freeze plug driver tools, usually with a swivel head. I've done just as well by starting with a plastic sand filled head hammer, tapping side to side until the cup is clearly going straight into the bore. Often, a heftier hammer and block of wood can drive the freeze plug into the bore evenly. If not that easy, try an impact socket with an O.D. that fits just inside the cup edge. Drive straight and avoid distorting or badly nicking the cup dish. Avoid distorting or denting the cup's raised edge. If unclear how deep to set the plug, note the OE installation. I seat the cup edge even with or slightly deeper than the inner edge of the chamfer at the block bore.
This is a much easier task now than with the manifolds in place! Regardless of the life left in this high mileage engine, you need dependability. These freeze plugs are on their way out and could spring a substantial leak at an inopportune time or place.
Share some pics with us. It will be interesting to see how close to failing these freeze plugs turn out to be.
Moses
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Hi, Jeeplady95! So, you have a 4.0L inline six-cylinder engine? That would be the AX15 transmission. The four-cylinder 2.5L uses the AX5. Here are the official Mopar part numbers for the complete transmissions offered in 1995 Jeep YJ and XJ vehicles:
TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY 5 SPEED
52108022 XJ 2.1 Turbo Diesel Engine 1994
52108121 X1,XJ 2.5 Turbo Diesel Engine. 1995
52108049 YJ,Y1 2.5L Four Cylinder Engine, 4WD
52108045 XJ, X1 2.5L Four Cylinder Engine, 2WD
52108046 X1 2.5L Four Cylinder Engine, 4WD, EGYPT, MALAYSIA
52108046 XJ 2.5L Four Cylinder Engine, 4WD
52108021 X1 2.5L Four Cylinder Engine, 4WD, CHINA, ARGENTINA, VENEZUELA, MALAYSIA, EGYPT
52108050 Y1, YJ 4.0L Six Cylinder Engine
52108048 XJ, X1 4.0L Six Cylinder Engine, 2WD
52108047 XJ, X1 4.0L Six Cylinder Engine, 4WD
53009526 ZGZJZ1 4.0L Six Cylinder Engine
52109021 ZGZ1 2.5 Turbo Diesel
This Mopar part number should be located on the top of the transmission case if the assembly is the original for this Jeep. (This 53005385 unit came from a 1991 Jeep XJ Cherokee.) Here are some identifying features of an AX15 for a YJ or XJ Jeep. Note that this unit has only one electrical wire, at the side of the case, and the switch is part of the backup light circuit:
It would also be helpful to watch this trailer for my Vimeo On Demand how-to instructional video on rebuilding the AX15 transmission:
If you do have an AX15 transmission that requires rebuilding, and if you're planning to rebuild the transmission yourself, the entire bench rebuild and restoration is covered in the HD video rental at Vimeo On Demand: https://vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild. Each rental period is 30 days to provide plenty of time for getting parts and performing the work.
I have the vehicle decoding chart. If you furnish the letter portion of the VIN (do not need your serial numbers), I can clarify. It still comes down to the AX5 with 2.5L four and AX15 with the 4.0L engine. The only "G" in the VIN decode has to do with GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating).
We can address more of your questions about the Wrangler's transmission...
Moses -
jj_jeep...I did not remove the EFI components. Just use good judgment and do not stress parts. For your application, watch the cables, wires and hoses. Go slowly to avoid stressing parts, disconnect any susceptible part and identify it with masking tape and a Sharpie if necessary. Move the manifold(s) just far enough for removal. If for any reason you do remove the fuel pressure hose, use the proper release tool at the spring connector. Lisle and others make inexpensive spring release tool kits for A/C, fuel and other pressure/spring connections. Do not force this hose connection apart, you will create the need for a very costly repair.
Glad you found a cost-effective solution. I've had no trouble with the Borla, it's quite hefty and well-flanged. The issue overall is metallurgy and stress. Heat cycling stainless steel is a dicey proposition over time. Any tubular manifold would eventually fatigue and crack. I like the Borla for its thicker tube walls and smoother bends. I noticed on your OEM manifold, as with my XJ Cherokee, the tighter end bends look susceptible to cracking. And they do!
Please share your installation details and how well the Dorman replacement manifold fits...
Moses
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Ron...Correct about the turn signal. Should only work in the KEY ON and possibly the ACCESSORIES position, depending upon the make and model.
I drilled down in the 1987-90 Jeep XJ Cherokee Mopar parts listings, and the ballast resistor does date back to 1987. Here is the 1987-90 Mopar parts catalog showing the ballast resistor, part #24:
1987-88 XJ Cherokee Front Engine Wiring Harness with Ballast Resistor.pdf
Note from parts coverage that the 1987-90 period is indicated here. This listing for the ballast resistor does not indicate a particular model year, which means the part is applicable to all years 1987-90. The Mopar part number for the ballast resistor is 33000682. When I run this as a Mopar number, the fitment is as follows:
This product fits 63 vehicle variants.
JEEP: 3 models, 63 variants between 1987 and 1993Here's a listing for the ballast resistor that clearly indicates 1987 fitment: http://www.moparpartssource.com/a/42361045__5564270/HARNESS--ENGINE-COMPARTMENT-4--6-CYLINDER-ENGINE-CHEROKEE--WAGONEER--COMANCHE/000018WE.html. The part is inexpensive (under $7 plus freight from this source). Likely the ballast resistor is available in the aftermarket as well and from local sources.
So, either all of this information about a ballast resistor on a 1987 model (including the wiring harness schematic, the factory parts manual and a factory service manual) is incorrect, or we haven't found the ballast resistor on your 1987 Jeep XJ Cherokee 4.0L MPI model yet...You can zoom-in on the wiring harness illustration to pinpoint the connectors for the ballast resistor. There should be two spade/female terminals unless someone has eliminated or relocated the ballast resistor.
If the resistor has been eliminated with a splice of the two leads, check voltage at this point. It should read the same as the battery voltage (12.85-12.95 volts for a new and fully charged 12V battery without the engine running). The reason for the resistor is to lower/regulate voltage in normal fuel pump running mode (not the cranking mode or under wide open throttle, as we've discovered). The battery and circuits line voltage with the engine running and alternator charging can exceed 14 volts, which apparently is not what the fuel pump should receive in normal operating mode...See if the engine front harness illustration helps, Ron.
Here is the 4.0L fuel injection wiring schematic for the 1987-90 Jeep XJ Cherokee. You asked about pre- and post-ECU wiring, this covers what you wanted to know. Note that the wires to the ballast resistor are orange with a black stripe, both in and out of the resistor (Illus. #21). There is a reference note indicating that the ballast resistor is "near the air filter [box]". This color scheme connects to a pink/black wire that goes to the fuel pump at the tank:
1987-90 XJ Cherokee EFI-MPI Wiring Diagrams.pdf
Moses
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Explore the relay's function, Ron...Keep looking for a ballast resistor. The PDF is 1989 service information. I would expect this to be the same for '87-'90, but maybe '87 is an exception, or the ballast resistor might be elsewhere—or by-passed? Perhaps 1988-90 added the resistor after experiencing a problem with the '87 model? We can explore this further.
The ignition switch can always be a source for voltage drop, good thought. Worth at least probing the contacts and testing the switch's input and output voltages. Fortunately, the switch and its connector are not that difficult to access on the XJ Cherokee. This is a possibility. For the voltage drop you describe, there would have to be a poor connection or high resistance at the switches contacts. I'd expect this to impact other circuits, but with relays, maybe the voltage is strong enough to close the relay contacts.
Here's the relays identification drawing and part numbers for a 1987 Jeep XJ Cherokee: 1987 XJ Cherokee Relays.pdf. See if this helps, too.
Moses
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Hey, Ron...I drilled deep on this one and may have a solution for the fuel pump voltage issue. Your Renix fuel supply system does use a 12V pump, and you're very right in expecting a clean 12V signal at the pump. There is one item in this electrical supply to the pump that may be the trouble spot. Your system uses a ballast resistor, mounted at the left inner fender panel in front of the EGR solenoid. This is a typical ballast resistor with one wire in and one wire out, easy to recognize. Apparently this is used to clean up the voltage signal to the fuel pump, which has a 12V permanent magnet motor.
1987-90 Cherokee Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor.pdf
Location of fuel pump ballast resistor on 1987-90 XJ Cherokee with Renix MPI
Check the voltage at each side of the ballast resistor. If the motor requires 12VDC, and if there's a drop here at the ballast resistor to the 7VDC that you're finding at the pump end, the voltage drop is right here at the ballast resistor. (The resistor is defective.) If there is 12V on both sides of the resistor, you have a voltage drop between the resistor and the pump, either the ground side or hot lead.
I also want you to read this PDF, Ron, specifically the paragraph with reference to the MPI fuel pump functions and voltage sources, as they vary under different operating modes. The ballast resistor, starter relay and oxygen sensor relay come into play:
Renix Fuel Pump Electrical.pdf
Moses
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David, this is utterly amazing, fantastic country! The lake is incredible. Filming vantage, soundtrack and editing are superb! So, who has the drone? Looks like GoPro footage on a 3-axis Gimbal.
As for riding, you do have it made. (So do I really, we're on dirt in less than 10 minutes from home and can ride up to 120 miles without crossing a paved road at much of northern Nevada.) You have an enthusiastic riding group with great bikes. Thanks for considering the plain's ecology, looks somewhat fragile and susceptible to injury from wheeled vehicles. We have that at Nevada, too. Most don't realize the extreme fragility of desert. "Pioneering" trails in uncharted areas can result in a 150 year cycle of sagebrush regrowth. Our approach is the Tread Lightly formula: Stick to existing, designated trails, logging roads, mining roads, fire roads, single-tracks, two-tracks, gravel "highways" and such. This is not really inhibiting, just considerate of our outdoor recreational legacy.
David, thanks very much for sharing this fantastic footage and helping us wrap our minds around Burundi. You live at one of the world's most pristine venues. Trust it will stay that way, the geography must make this a remarkable tourist destination and living space! I would really enjoy sharing a trail or plain at Burundi—or dirt motorcycling and four-wheeling on Nevada's widely varying terrain. The mean elevation at Nevada is 5500 feet elevation, much like Burundi, I would think. We have everything from stark Mojave-type desert to peaks nearly 14,000 feet with high desert flora, alpine forests and even a few glaciers—all within the State of Nevada. I'll share more over time...Can't wait to learn more about Burundi!
Moses
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David, this is utterly amazing, fantastic country! The lake is incredible. Filming vantage, soundtrack and editing are superb! So, who has the drone? Looks like GoPro footage on a 3-axis Gimbal.
As for riding, you do have it made. (So do I really, we're on dirt in less than 10 minutes from home and can ride up to 120 miles without crossing a paved road at much of northern Nevada.) You have an enthusiastic riding group with great bikes. Thanks for considering the plain's ecology, looks somewhat fragile and susceptible to injury from wheeled vehicles. We have that at Nevada, too. Most don't realize the extreme fragility of desert. "Pioneering" trails in uncharted areas can result in a 150 year cycle of sagebrush regrowth. Our approach is the Tread Lightly formula: Stick to existing, designated trails, logging roads, mining roads, fire roads, single-tracks, two-tracks, gravel "highways" and such. This is not really inhibiting, just considerate of our outdoor recreational legacy.
David, thanks very much for sharing this fantastic footage and helping us wrap our minds around Burundi. You live at one of the world's most pristine venues. Trust it will stay that way, the geography must make this a remarkable tourist destination and living space!
Moses
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Glad to share my experience, jj_jeep...I like the Borla, it has a very substantial flange, no frills. Not partial here if you can find a suitable alternative. JBA and Banks could be good prospects with the fit you describe. Use your judgment here, and let us know what you wind up doing, including installation details, maybe a few photos to help others in our forum community. This is a common issue.
If your system requires a pipe cut, it can be done with a hacksaw and patience. Sawzall would be choppy, and you need a smooth cut. There's actually a tool for this: a chain cutter for muffler work. This one seems decent quality and price: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2031DD-Exhaust-Tailpipe-Cutter/dp/B000M93OUM. There's also a cutoff wheel, air driven. I have a good one that's been very helpful over the years. Here's an example at Summit Racing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-88255. The Jeep TJ exhaust system pipe to the cat could be stainless steel, and if so, it's quite hard and best done with a sharp cutter or an abrasive wheel.
As for the crack, I'm a TIG welder. If finances were tight and the crack area were accessible and readily cleanable, I would stainless steel TIG repair the piece. What the heck, right? A quality TIG weld would exceed the factory weaknesses and buy time. If there's much corrosion and the need to remove the piece for the repair, that might be different. I have a great deal of confidence in TIG fixes if done correctly. Judging by your useful photo of the crack, this could not be welded/repaired in position. The manifold would be removed for the cleaning and weld. Position is critical, the piece must have the same shape after the weld/repair. You might discuss this crack with a muffler shop that does custom installation welding, including stainless pipe and MIG process. They may have an in-position repair solution for your header crack, though the response will more likely be similar to my comments.
Metallurgically, heat cycled stainless steel is either intact or cracked. There's little risk of another crack forming at this location if TIG'd correctly with stainless filler. (The factory assembly method is likely wire feed MIG stainless.) Perforation with stainless is unlikely, fatigue is the common failure. Following the repair, another fatigue crack might occur away from the weld later, possibly the heat affected zone (HAZ), though not necessarily if the piece cools properly during the repair process. Stainless is hard and not ductile enough to tolerate continual expansion and contraction cycling. On the other hand, it has substantial resistance to high heat over time and will not expand much in this application. Stainless is definitely a good alternative to other types of tubular steel. For emissions engines with catalytic converter systems, stainless steel works well. A cast iron manifold would glow red from emissions A/F ratios and lean burn temperatures.
In driving the vehicle with this damage, beyond the obvious carbon monoxide poisoning risk, one concern would be valve warpage. This occurs if the leak is close to the cylinder head. When shutting down the engine, ambient or cold air can "scavenge" into the exhaust port under particular conditions and warp an exhaust valve(s). This is highly unlikely if your crack is any distance from the head, which it appears to be in your case. The crack is perpendicular to the flow, and scavenging this far from the head would be unlikely.
The coolant weep could be blowing back from hoses, radiator or the water pump. More likely, it could be a freeze plug seeping, certainly not uncommon at this mileage. Find the source, it's not the oil pan region itself and must be migrating from elsewhere. If it is a freeze plug, this would be readily accessible with the exhaust manifold removed. Changing a freeze plug is not difficult when done correctly. We can discuss that repair.
Moses
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All the cylinder leakdown test requires is the engine's firing order and finding TDC on the compression stroke for each cylinder tested.
Might be worth running this test. If you don't have the leakdown tester, see my post about making a facsimile that puts cylinder seal into perspective (albeit without the benefit of leak percentage readings): http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/164-how-to-make-an-inexpensive-engine-cylinder-leak-tester/.
Moses
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David...My bark busters are aluminum and won't collapse like plastic. The obsessive trend toward weight savings has created the plastic bark buster, an oxymoron really, as they can't bust anything except fingers and the levers!
As for exercise, riding motocross, GNCC, trials or desert enduro ranks as the #1 "sport" for exercise. You work all 5 muscle groups and enhance your reflexes. On the XR650R off-pavement, I'm pitting my body against 49 ft-lbs of torque, 55 horsepower and reduction gearing—while wrestling a 300-plus pound machine! You're now experiencing a taste of this.
One needs to be in condition to ride. The riding activity itself takes us physically to the next level. I'm hitting the gym at 5:30 a.m. six days a week with dirt motorcycling as my incentive. I know how this one works! If you can stream Moto 4 or Moto 5 the Movie, these guys are athletes, first and foremost. Exercise and conditioning become a major part of the regimen. Otherwise, this sport will beat you up!
As for helmets, you're following the prudent caveat: tough knock, no longer reliable. Can you have the helmet inspected through Arai? I need to get a new helmet, mine has been dropped numerous times (fortunately without my head in it!). Incidents like the helmet rolling off the seat while parked, with the helmet bouncing across a cement surface. I'm looking at the 6D technology, very spendy but uniquely protective: http://www.6dhelmets.com/#!editorial/c77.
Netflix can be streamed through a player (Roku, Chromecast, etc.) onto your television or viewed on a PC monitor. If you have an account access, either works. A smart TV is another approach. In addition to the Vimeo On Demand rental how-to videos, I've added 112 Vimeo videos for free viewer use. Vimeo now offers streaming through major players. Seeing this stuff on the big screen is impactful! Each of the moto videos I mention is available via Netflix.
As for the Moto 4 trailer, I was not encouraging X-Game level jumping. In fact, our XR650Rs are not candidates for that kind of action, they're too heavy and best adapted to sand traps and fast-paced gravel or "fire" roads. Outback Burundi more than fits that paradigm! Keep the XR650R on the ground, perhaps a lightened front wheel when practical or necessary.
I'm very excited about your introduction to dirt riding. Beginning properly, with riding partners who have founded skill, you will quickly make your way. Astride an XR650R is every bit the challenge I experienced in the transition from road bikes to a BSA Victor 441 over four decades ago. My intensive riding lesson with Rick Sieman (1987-88 era) opened a whole new level of appreciation for dirt motorcycling!
The saving factor here is that the XR650R is probably the best suited desert enduro machine for your terrain. Back off on the speed for now. Once you get your footing, dirt riding will be a fun and "safe" motorcycling outlet. With the Honda XR650Rs, negotiating asphalt or graded gravel is within the design limits of these machines. They're true dual-sport bikes when called upon!
Moses
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I went with a Borla header on the '99 Jeep XJ Cherokee. Banks also has specially "tuned" headers that many like. Fit is important. Route wires carefully to the O2 sensor and crankshaft position sensor.
Many, including the factory shop manual, suggest the complete removal and installation of the exhaust and intake manifolds as a pair. I found it easier to loosen the intake and exhaust manifolds, then stretch and tie the intake away from the cylinder head, using plastic rope. The serpentine drive belt needs removal for the power steering pump clearance. (The pump and bracket can be loosened from the intake manifold if necessary.) The intake tube to the throttle body will likely need loosening. I carefully watched the throttle linkage, hoses, fittings and all other attachments as I moved the intake manifold away from the head. By not completely removing the intake, I saved considerable time and labor. I moved the intake just enough to provide room for gasket removal and installation of the Borla header from the bottom side. This worked for me on the Borla header installation.Answers to Your Questions:
1) This installation involves both intake/exhaust manifold bolts and nuts/studs. The threaded studs may or may not need replacement. I would use a suitable thread penetrant spray on the nuts before removal to offset risk of snapping a stud. These are tough, graded steel studs, and unless excessively corroded, you should be able to reuse the studs and even the nuts. Use good judgment here. Removing studs could be difficult with the intake manifold tied away from the head, you might find yourself completely removing the intake system. Vice Grips work, though my preference is to double nut the stud and turn the inner nut outward to remove the stud. If the threads are broken off the stud, Vice Grips can grab the remaining shank of the stud. A stud that breaks within the head surface is a very difficult proposition to drill and "easy out". The steel in the stud is very hard, and you must stay on center to avoid damaging the head threads and casting.
2) Torque nuts and bolts to factory specification. The below PDF is the entire rundown on intake and exhaust manifold removal/replacement (the combined removal by factory method) plus the torque specifications. Nuts have differing torque in various positions. Note the illustration with the stud numbering sequence. Read over the factory method in case you need to remove the entire intake manifold. On the Borla header installation, I avoided this laundry list of steps by moving the intake manifold outward and securing with plastic rope, gaining just enough room to replace the intake/exhaust manifold's one-piece gasket and to slide the new exhaust manifold up into position over the studs:
1998 Jeep TJ Wrangler Manifolds.pdf
3) Modern manifold gaskets do not require great effort to remove from the casting. A putty knife should remove any loose or remaining gasket, do not scratch the intake manifold aluminum.
4) Depending upon the header kit, you may not have a gasket ring at the end of the header. Borla uses a pipe-to-pipe, slip-on stepped pipe size arrangement and furnishes a connector pipe. Clamps were exceptional quality and grade. Banks has its approach. See if you can find kit installation details and parts illustrations at their websites. A stock replacement header would be Mopar OEM replacement parts much like your current setup.
This is not a monumental job. The biggest concerns are the bolts, nuts and studs plus getting old exhaust pieces apart without damaging any parts that need to be reused. Other forum members may have additional information and experiences to share. The original header is a failure prone piece, and cracking is quite common. Yours lasted longer than many do.
Moses
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Yes, Case, it's reasonable to assume. 1981-86 is essentially the same. I use an '83 book for all models built to 1986. You should be okay with the '84-up test procedures and specifications.
By the way, you do have a Mopar EFI conversion, which does fit 1981-90 CJ/YJ 4.2L and will also work with a 4.0L '91-up engine. You have the latter at this point. I don't see the return fuel line. Am I overlooking something here? A photo of the pressure and return lines at the rail or the type of fuel filter and fuel pump involved would help clarify.
Moses
Ford E4OD Automatic Transmission Shifting Issue
in 1948-Present: Ford F-Series Trucks
Posted
rfields223...Would like to know what the Engine Check code reads. Auto Zone and others will often read a code for free on OBD. Or you can purchase a simple and inexpensive code reader (only) that does not do diagnostics. What we need is a code, I'll help troubleshoot from there.
Meanwhile, scroll up and read Keithfromphilly's first question and the exchange we shared. This is the kind of trouble we're seeking, something that might connect the Engine Check (actually powertrain, including the transmission) to your symptom. It would be advantageous to find a simpler problem than something deeper within the transmission.
Pleased to follow up with suggestions once we get this Check Engine clue.
Moses