Moses Ludel
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Posts posted by Moses Ludel
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Hi, Alberto, good to get your update. Glad you're doing well and finding time to restore the YJ Wrangler 4.2L.
To avoid confusion, let's start with the carburetor tag numbers available in 1989 Jeep YJ Wrangler 4.2L engines. These are official Mopar complete carburetor part numbers (a carburetor assembly new is by now obsolete) reflecting where the vehicle was originally built:
CARBURETOR
83320007 U.S. and Canada - Tag #BBD 8383, BBD 8394 Carter, Man. Trans.
83320007 YJ U.S. and Canada - Tag #BBD 8383, BBD 8394 Carter, Auto Trans.
33000486 15,26 Export NRM - Tag #8366
33000486 YJ Egypt and Venezuela - KDX - Tag #8366
When I look up the Mopar metering rods for a 1989 YJ Wrangler 4.2L BBD Carter carburetor, I come up with Mopar part number J8133949 for both metering rods (same rods and size). This Mopar part fits a huge range of 4.2L BBD applications:
Tag #8383, 8384; carburetor tagged 8302S, 8303S; carburetor tagged 8306S, 8307S, 8341S; carburetor tagged 8338S, 8339S, 8383S, 8384S; carburetor tagged 8340S, 8383S, 8384S
Years and models of fit include 1984-90 4.2L engines in the Grand Wagoneer, J-10, YJ Wrangler (1987-90) and Jeep CJ models through 1986. This would be the factory metering rod for your Jeep 4.2L application.
The metering jets, by Mopar part numbers are two types, dependent upon the carburetor tag number. Each carburetor takes two of the same metering jets. These are the listed carburetors for 1989 YJ Wrangler 4.2L:
J3207756 Tag #8383, 8384
J0948827 Tag #8366
If you're sourcing outside Mopar and from a direct Carter jet source, you need to cross over the Mopar number to Carter.
Idle Mixture Screws are each the same, there are two under Mopar part number J8133451. Again, you would cross this number over to a Carter number if you cannot find the Mopar parts.Trust this is helpful. I can furnish more Mopar information if you need it, Alberto.
As for jet sizing, stay with factory type. These engines were designed to run with the emissions package and stepper motor. They deliver reasonable fuel efficiency and performance. I would not get creative here.
Moses
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In the 1990s, we began riding Honda XR dirt motorcycles. In the early '90s a modest $75 worth of parts invested in a Honda XR75 became youngest son Jacob's first motorcycle at age 12. Oregon friend Kirk donated two core bikes to the cause from his stockpile of old Hondas. When we returned to the high desert country at northern Nevada in 1994, my logical companion for Jacob's XR75 was a used 1983 Honda XR200R purchased from the Reno dealership. Jacob soon outgrew the XR75, and I outgrew the XR200R thumper.
Jacob inherited the XR200R when I found the right four-stroke bike, a very well prepped 1984 Honda XR350R built by Rick Sorensen, a professional Airframe and Powerplant aircraft mechanic and owner of an independent motorcycle shop at Yerington, our hometown. Rick built the machine for his daughter Tasha to potentially race hare-and-hound, and she prized the machine. Tasha went to college, and while a student, she offered the bike for sale. Knowing how much energy and upgrade equipment Rick had put into this purpose built machine, I gladly paid Tasha her asking price.
The bike received my respect as well, and it continued to deliver everything from bona fide desert enduro riding at speed to tight, single track trailing on the steep, off-camber switchbacks leading to mining claims at Black Mountain. The XR350R was a great teacher, its Pro-Link rear suspension, advanced forks for the era, rugged tubular steel frame and bulletproof four-valve, single cylinder engine were predictable and ample. In the day, a six-speed gearbox and advertised weight under 250 pounds had made the XR350R popular alongside its potent yet beefier XR500R counterpart.
Rated 22.4 horsepower by most accounts, the 1984 engine featured some upgrades yet still maintained the progressive dual carburetors for the twin intake port, four-valve head. From a tuning standpoint, the dual carburetors were condemned by many, as this was the period when single cylinder engines commonly had only one carburetor. Although the rumor mill is rife with attacks on these twin-Keihin carburetors, I have never experienced trouble with this design. In fact, the tune that Rick Sorensen set was so precise that the only cause for rebuilding these carburetors came a decade after acquiring the machine. My rebuild had nothing to do with a deficiency in the carburetors but rather the result of leaving ethanol-laced gasoline in the bowls too long and ruining the pilot jet on the primary carburetor. I "blueprint" built and staged these carburetors, and the performance went right back to Rick's original aims.
I've had several opportunities to part with this machine, offers from those who know its virtues and steadfast ability to pull off a great day's riding, anywhere and anytime, from High Rock Canyon to Johnson Valley when I covered the King of the Hammers race in 2012. Appreciation for its consistent performance and exceptional reliability has kept me from letting go of this machine, which is now relegated to occasional recreational riding since the acquisition and build of the "Big Red Pig" Honda XR650R. Our youngest grandson, Camden, now 2-1/2 years old, calls the XR350R "Little Red Pig" and the XR650R the "Big Red Pig". My '84 XR500R restoration project, while under a dry tarp at present, is nonetheless the "Middle Red Pig"—or simply "Middle".
It's pointless to compare the air-cooled Honda XR350R to the XR650R, the latest CRF450X or KTM 350. The vintage XR350R four-valve thumper has nowhere near the power hit of an XR500R, XR600R or the liquid cooled XR650R. However, for many riders, the XR350R can be the weekend desert enduro bike with a low initial purchase price and far less maintenance cost if in good condition with a credible history. These bikes perform trouble free for years, and they wear out slowly and predictably. Parts are still available for most areas of the cycle. Used pieces or improvising are sometimes necessary.
I ride my XR350R to stay in good physical condition and to maintain agility and survival reflexes for both dirt and asphalt motorcycling. Easier to throw around on dirt than heavier machines, the bike provides excellent terrain feedback and continuously works all five of my muscle groups!
My most recent workout on the XR350R was a test of the Enerpulse Pulstar PlasmaCore spark plug this morning. I filmed my ride with the GoPro Hero3 mounted in a Chesty harness. The edited video default is HD 1080P, and if you have the bandwidth or can stream Vimeo on the big screen through your Roku, Apple TV, Chromecast or Amazon Fire TV player*, enjoy the scenery! (Otherwise, there's the subtler SD play option.)
*Note: If you have one of these streaming players, simply do a search under "4WD Mechanix". You'll have access to the 190 videos now available at the Vimeo 4WD Mechanix Video Network Channel! If you have a smart television or large computer monitor, simply go to the Vimeo Channel at: http://www.vimeo.com/channels/4WDmechanix.
The riding venue begins just ten minutes from the 4WD Mechanix Magazine office...Take a 15-minute ride with me as the XR350R ascends from a high desert elevation of 4,000 feet into the nearby mountains and wild horse country over 6000 feet. This is what desert enduro motorcycling is all about! See why this three decade old "friend" has remained my recreational dirt bike and exercise outlet for nearly twenty years now...Moses
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Pleased that Kevin jumped in, his additional suggestions can help others, that's what a "forum community" is all about, right? Great that the CJ is on the comeback trail!
The magazine and forums have plenty of room for both 4x4s and dirt/dual-sport motorcycles. Pleased with the direction we're headed. I tested the Enerpulse Pulstar PlasmaCore spark plug in the Honda XR350R this morning. Got a good ride and wound up at the BLM watering trough where I filmed the Jeep XJ Cherokee 4x4 with wild horses in March 2013. (Fall, there are plenty of stud piles in the area!) Small world, this 4x4 and dual-sport thing! We recreate and wind up at the same places. I'll add a short video to the forums from the ride, living proof that a dual-carbureted vintage XR can still get the job done.
Moses
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Hello, Janet...Welcome to the forums! Have you shared the U.S. recall information with the dealership? (See the link in the earlier discussion.)
In the U.S., the dealer network has a Chrysler/Mopar representative (zone manager) who visits the dealerships on a regular basis. You can ask your dealer to set up a meeting with the Chrysler representative for his/her next visit to the dealership. Or you may be able to contact the zone rep directly.
If your vehicle already has the appropriate Mopar hitch in place and installed properly, the U.S. safety recall suggests that this reinforcement is sufficient to remedy the problem and risks. If you have a hitch in place that is not the equivalent of the Mopar replacement hitch, in the U.S., the dealer would likely just replace your existing hitch with the Mopar replacement parts—free of charge.
There is no mention of a U.S. cross beam repair. By U.S. standards and the Chrysler agreement with NHTSA, the hitch described will serve the same purpose as the cross beam your dealer describes.
Unless your UK automotive safety bureau has altered the requirement for fixing this problem, the Chrysler/Jeep zone or regional service/parts manager should be able to discuss this issue and offer a reasonable solution at no charge. The only exception that I can imagine would be a modification to your KJ Liberty/Cherokee during your original hitch installation that prevents the Mopar hitch from fitting safely or resolving the safety risk stated in the recall. Even then, as a consumer with a recall notice, you could still discuss this with the Chrysler/Jeep regional parts and service manager and negotiate a reasonable solution.Let us know how this turns out, Janet...
Moses -
Okay...So what are the symptoms? When you have a "global" and apparently random problem like this one, your idea of a wiring short, too much resistance in a circuit or a harness connector issue becomes likely. Let's start the troubleshooting approach by reconciling the codes being thrown:
32—Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Position Pressure Feedback Voltage Lower Than Expected
73—Insufficient Throttle Position Change Dynamic Test
27—Insufficient Vehicle Speed Sensor Input
13—Direct Current Motor Did Not Move
Repeat of 27—Insufficient Vehicle Speed Sensor Input
If we look at this in an overlay, some of the codes point to specific troubles, others are inconsistent. For example, the #13 code about the direct current motor is specific and can be verified by seeing whether the Direct Current Motor does work or not. Throttle position change errors would have a counterpart in poor drivability or idle roughness. Despite the wonders of "codes", we need to assess the actual performance troubles.
Did the shift-skip come back, or is the transmission actually shifting okay still? How does the engine run, cold start, idle and generally perform? Note that you're getting an array of trouble codes and need to separate whether parts are actually defective or the system is simply communicating poorly.
Communication is dependent upon circuit integrity. This means that connections and wiring integrity must be intact. Understanding, logically, that "everything" doesn't usually fail at the same time, your gut thought about wiring circuit opens or maybe too much resistance is probably true. In terms of defective wires, the VSS did test defective, and it also may have shorted or overloaded wiring when it went down for the count. That's a possibility, but let's not borrow that trouble just yet.
I did a forum entry about lamp load testing, and that may be valuable to your troubleshooting approach. See this entry and the vlog I did on DC circuit testing. Also enter "lamp load" in the Search box at these forums for more details. (Make sure the Search box is set for "Forums" search, not "This topic".)
Before jumping to the conclusion that a host of wiring troubles exist, let's consider the ground circuits and the harness plug connections. If wiring looks intact and not fried or exposed, try disconnecting the connector plugs related to the powertrain and VSS very carefully to avoid breaking two-decade old plastic connectors! Clean up the connections with a specified electrical contact cleaner, allow to dry completely then apply dielectric grease to the connector faces before reconnecting the plug halves. (This will provide the necessary moisture barrier without preventing conductivity. See my comments about the use of dielectric grease.)
So let's isolate the connectors involved with the VSS and other fault codes for openers. Check ground points and clean as needed throughout the truck chassis, at the battery and in the engine bay ground circuits. Unplug, clean and re-plug the EEC processor connectors—carefully. If this does not remedy the issue, we can isolate wiring areas and begin checking for circuit integrity or lamp load test.
As you can tell, I'm not a big fan of "parts replacing" as a troubleshooting tool. Let's first find the cause of the code(s), then replace defective parts if necessary.
Moses
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There's a lot of chatter about the use of dielectric grease. Permatex suggests that Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is a good barrier to oxidation at plugs, connectors and terminals. There are some online comments at forums that say not to place dielectric grease on connector pins.
I've gone to the Permatex site, and the information is vague:
"Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. Extends the life of bulb sockets. Prevents voltage leakage around any electrical connection. Also prevents spark plugs from fusing to boots. Required for modern high energy ignition systems."
Another quote from the Permatex site:
Directions for Connectors: 1. Make sure ignition system is off. 2. Clean surface with Permatex® Contact Cleaner. 3. Coat both parts of terminal contact with Dielectric Grease. 4. Reassemble, maintaining metal-to-metal contact. - See more at: http://www.permatex....h.mSLOFJcy.dpuf
Also, here's the PDF product information download from Permatex:
Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease PDF.pdf 69.55KB 0 downloadsIn the PDF, Permatex cites uses for the Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease:
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
• Spark plug boots
• Distributor cap nipples
• Battery terminals
• Ignition coil connectors
• Headlamp connectors
• Trailer electrical connectors
The "metal-to-metal contact" reference may create suspicion for some about "Dielectric Tune-Up Grease". I've used this product for years around tune-up work without reservation. I searched around and found an engineer's assessment of dielectric grease that suggests Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease should work well on a variety of pin connector materials without creating any kind of resistance or barrier to current flow. This commentary is worth reading: http://www.w8ji.com/...tive_grease.htm, the author seems well informed, experienced, and he uses a scientific approach. According to the engineer, metal-to-metal pin contact should result if pins are clean and not tarnished, with or without dielectric grease on the pins.
It's realistic to presume that the degree of conductivity is governed by the tension of the pin and socket fit, not whether we use dielectric grease. Whether or not you use the dielectric grease, I would use a quality electrical contact cleaner to get rid of the oozing material at your PCM plug and terminals. Make sure you flush out all residue and allow complete evaporation to prevent dilution of remaining grease or any issues with spark arc hazards. I would at least place dielectric grease on connector lips to act as an effective moisture and oxidation barrier.
Personally, I'm good with the use of dielectric grease, others can use their own judgment. For me, the engineer at the www.w8ji.com site confirms and clarifies its intended uses.
Moses
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Scott...Familiar ring. I went on a quest for the XR650R and found mine at the right price with the isolated top end engine damage from poor air filtration. Everything else was spot on, including low mileage. The bike's title reflected a street-legal Texas dual-sport conversion with Baja Designs equipment. Nevada interpreted this as highway legal in the title transfer and registration. Simple...
The previous owner was an F15 pilot stationed at Texas. He knew how to fly and ride, that's about it. I did the catch-up maintenance, though his claim of "1000 or less original miles" was likely true. Ultimately, despite delayed gratification around riding the cycle, I was very happy addressing the top-end needs. This demystified the engine's condition and made the cycle ultra reliable. The top end rebuild HD video how-to rental at Vimeo On Demand has gained traction, so there's even that satisfaction.
We have three sons and a daughter, each reasonably mature. One is my "riding partner", the youngest at 33. He just acquired the ultimate XR400R find, a 2003 model with 134 actual miles. It looks showroom, and at Nevada, it's OHV stickered. (Possible candidate for a dual-sport conversion at some point, not sure whether he'll go down this road.) I'm anxious to ride with Jacob, we did a considerable amount of riding together on his XR200R and my XR350R at the local high desert, visualize 'hare-and-hound' scrambles terrain. I've stubbornly kept the '84 XR350R, now titled and permitted as an OHV, the '83 XR200R went down the road with considerable reluctance when Jacob went to UNR to study engineering. I acquired an '84 XR500R project from son Jacob when he discovered it needs engine work. The bike is wholly restorable. Time permitting, that could happen on my watch.
Funny you mention the WR250, I have a close friend who lives at Brownsville, OR. He picked up his mid-life WR250R four-stroke, Oregon legal for the highway, and really likes it. The XR650R, by contrast, has the strongest roll-on throttle of any thumper I've ever ridden, I'd gather that's your opinion, too.
Categorically agree about the XR650R's forgiving nature. I had minor trepidations about riding a "Johnny Campbell Baja 1000 class" motorcycle in the dirt after watching the "Dust to Glory" motorcycle segments a dozen times. Five minutes of riding were enough to dispel any concerns. Like you, Scott, I'm a seasoned rider at a variety of venues, both on- and off-pavement. We always adjust to what's beneath the saddle. The XR650R was among the easiest transitions, the "throttle steer" and trail braking get an immediate response. There is absolutely no dead area in the engine's entire rpm range, incredible torque as you know and appreciate! I'm estimating 55 horsepower and 49 lb-ft torque at the current build and tune.
Likely we're all "addicted" to the BRPs but justifiably. Unless you're closed course motocross or stadium racing, what better way to ride open space enduro terrain—or sand and hill climbs, for sure...
Looking forward to your Oregon adventures as well, Scott! Friend Kirk from Brownsville knows Christmas Valley well for both bikes and his Jeep Wrangler TJ Rubicon...Please post your topics and photos, I'll reply...Others will jump into this, the BRP community at the forums continues growing!
Moses
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When I pondered buying a Honda XR650R motorcycle, my BRP research spanned the web. Repeatedly, I unearthed references and horror stories about how tough it is to start these engines. Forums were rife with starting and kicking rituals, choking methods and decompression lever habits. Add the mention of stock and aftermarket carburetors, suggestions on how to use the manual decompressor, descriptions of how best to use auto-decompression, you name it. Eventually, one could get leery of approaching one of these critters or maybe buy a newer electric start KTM EXC. Common sense prevailed, after all, this is just a four-stroke motorcycle engine with 10:1 compression. I bought a BRP anyway.
So affected was I that when I completed a top-engine build that should start, I didn't expect the engine to start! (Objectively, some of this carried over from the several days of trying to start the BRP with a 90% cylinder leakage prior to the restoration of the top end.) The compression was spot on, valve and spark timing perfect, a new spark plug gapped properly, and preliminary carburetor settings "by the book". The carburetor jetting, exhaust flow and choke were correct. I had even check over the carburetor, though I would subsequently "blueprint" rebuild it. With a stock Keihin carburetor jetted to known norms that make sense for this engine and our region's altitude, everything pointed to an engine that would start...
I decided to use the same technique that always started my dual-carbureted '84 XR350R and '84 XR500R in sub-freezing weather or scorching summer heat. These are each motorcycles that many will never own because the "dual carburetors are junk!"
This is good for the rest of us, as these four-valve thumpers are wonderful machines when tuned with the carbs sync'd properly! We can pick a nice bike up cheap. Just one example was an "as new", stored '84 XR500R that recently sold at a renown motorcycle auction for $2800. Wish I'd been there. These auctions usually generate a "fever" that drives prices to ridiculous heights, but not for a four-valve Honda thumper that has dual carburetors. Thanks to the internet, the word is out!
After all the hype around BRPs and hard starting, I settled for a more rational approach—knowing that this engine should most certainly start well! And you know what? It did.
Cold, I can start this engine on the first or second kick when applying the choke correctly. Once warm, as in this video, one kick ought to do it! Yet ahead, there's still the internet scuttlebutt and portent of "how bad these engines restart after laying them on their side". I've consciously avoided doing this so have no comment yet. I do have an approach for that, should the unplanned occasion present itself, and I bet it will work!
This video is an honest to goodness, candid start-up of the engine. My GoPro Chesty was on for the morning's second round of Acerbis tank road testing. The bike had been setting in the driveway for twenty minutes, minding its own business. I used the manual decompressor lever simply to tickle the piston past TDC on the compression stroke...Judge for yourself. This is a properly tuned Honda XR650R.
I'll make a point of filming a start-up with the dual-carbureted XR350R next time I ride it. Let's cross fingers that won't drive the price up on vintage dual-carbureted XRs!—Moses -
Very helpful pointers, Kevin! Thanks for jumping into the discussion...I'm sure Andy will benefit from your experience...Thanks much for sharing!
Moses
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Andy...Sounds like catch-up time on the CJ! Let us know how the axle shafts turn out. According to references, there's a dramatic width difference between the narrow and wide track housings, the transition is around '81, though Jeep was famous for using up parts in carryover models. Note that the right and left side axle shafts are not interchangeable and have different lengths. I'm adding the axle housing and related parts schematics and listings for 1981-86, including AMC Model 20 and the 1986 Dana 44:
1981-86 Jeep CJ AMC Model 20 and Dana 44 Rear Axle Housings.pdf
You may have this down already, but the assembly relationship of the parts is also crucial. This parts schematic doesn't show the placement of the brake backing plate, which must be in correct order. With the axle shaft inner seal, axle shaft/bearing and bearing cup installed properly in the axle housing, the assembly sequence is:
1) Shims go directly against the axle housing flange with a light coating of either a thin silicone paste or a sealant like Gasgacinch (as a motorcycle guy, you know what this is!) between the shims and against the backing plate for a moisture barrier.
2) Install the brake backing plate next.
3) The flanged seal is outboard of the brake backing plate, the flanged seal's raised portion facing outward as in the parts illustrations.
4) The dust shield fits outboard of the flanged plate seal.
Note: If shims are on the wrong side of the backing plate, the play will be incorrect. Looking at the axle shaft parts illustrations on Page 102-103 (see my first PDF upload), the backing plate goes between #5 and #6 in the parts illustration. What Mopar calls a "SPACER" (#5) is actually the stack of individual replacement shims noted as 0.003" thickness apiece...If the axle shafts are swapped left to right, there's also a problem, so measure the lengths closely for each side. Correct the axle shaft placements if they were swapped.
For Jeep CJ owners interested in working on their vehicle, I cover this axle shaft installation in illustrated detail within my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 edition, available from Bentley Publishers and a number of aftermarket sources, including our good friends and sponsors at Advance Adapters! The book is comprehensive and earned a Mopar Performance official part number.
Enjoyed the glimpse of your KTM EXCR. The Honda CR500 sounds potent, a notch up from my '84 XR500R in need of some restoration. Gather that you're also a fan of Pro-Link suspension, a major breakthrough. The CR500 fits nicely alongside the XR600R, the latter a bit bulkier though better on fuel. The CR is a wicked, on-the-pipe ride! Like to hear about the CR, too!
Moses
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Hi, Andy...I know this can be frustrating, however, bearings are such a close match in tolerance between new and slightly worn old cups and cones that you should have clearance very close to the original shim package.
Do I understand that you installed one-piece aftermarket replacement axle shafts? Did you order (or receive) the correct axle shafts for your year and axle type CJ? There were regular and "wide track" versions of the Model 20 axle. If you install wide track axle shafts in a narrower track axle, you'd have shaft bearings riding too far out in the housing.
There is a spacer block in the differential that separates the axle shafts. Assuming nothing is new in the differential, the axle shafts should line up correctly. I would closely compare the length of your OEM axle shafts and the new axle shafts. Measure between the inner ends of the axle shafts and the seats of the axle bearings. These measurements must be the same or very close. If the new axle shafts are too long between the inner end of the axle shaft and the bearing shoulder, the shafts are too long.
Here is a parts PDF to help illustrate the relationship of these parts, including the axle shafts with both conventional and factory limited slip differentials. See if this helps clarify:
Later CJ AMC 20 Axle Shafts.pdf
I used 1985 as the model year, though much of this information covers other years of the AMC Model 20. I can narrow down if you share your model year and just the first part of your VIN with letters, not the actual serial numbers.
Moses
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bmorris57...Usually, given age and engine heat, the hose leaks are easy to locate. Look for brittle or cracked hose.
There are machines for "smoking" a vacuum circuit and watching for leaks. (I have such a VacuTech that does this with smoking peanut oil or equivalent and a black light.) A low volatility spray, kept away from heat sources or spark, or even pure water in a spray bottle, can help detect a vacuum leak. When picked up by the idling engine's vacuum, the engine speed will momentarily change.
Otherwise, visual checks or the use of a vacuum hand pump can help. If you have a vacuum hand pump, try testing vacuum circuits between known points that normally seal at the opposite end (like the circuit to the MAP sensor or fuel pressure regulator). This can also turn up defective vacuum devices and leaky diaphragms...You can get an idea which circuits are sealed from the diagrams. A vacuum hand pump/pressure gauge is a valuable diagnostic tool.
Let us know what you find, members are here to assist further!
Moses
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Hi, bmorris57...Welcome to the forums! The Code 27 on a 60-pin PCM system is just as you describe—vague and global.
When you have a global injector issue on a YJ 4.0L engine, the cause can be as simple as a vacuum hose leak to the fuel pressure regulator. I'd start with simpler vacuum hose checks. Look for hoses that connect to the intake manifold, fuel pressure regulator and the throttle body. You're trying to locate a damaged or split hose that's sending a poor vacuum signal. Check these circuits, especially the MAP, EVAP and, most likely, the fuel pressure regulator:
YJ Wrangler 4.0L Vacuum Circuits.pdf
Try this first. A vacuum leak or damaged hose has an easy remedy. We can go from there...Code 55 is simply the end code after an engine diagnostic check. 12, as you observed, is a disconnected battery. Always suspect when the MIL/CEL Engine Check lamp is either broken or disconnected!
Moses
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yj89...Here is the vacuum circuit diagram for your 2.5L TBI engine in the Jeep YJ Wrangler. You can see the vacuum source circuit for the PCV and also the routing of the CCV system. The engine's crankcase ventilation (CCV) needs both the PCV draw and fresh air intake from the air filter. The K&N system should have provided a fresh air access tube for the CCV system. Look this over:
Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI Vacuum Circuit.pdf
This should help clarify...Look at your original air box and induction tube. You need both a fresh air source (must be filtered air) and a suction side on the PCV system...
Moses
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Pleased this is starting to sift out, rfields223. Once you get this overdrive button and circuits restored, we'll see whether these new codes stick. If you have codes at that point, we’ll take this to the next step...
Thanks for the update!
Moses
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Scott...I so much enjoyed your reminiscing about the U of O and the Oregon towns! I graduated Winter '80. Wife Donna and I escaped married student housing (Westmoreland) on rare occasions, and with the kids well cared for by married student friends, we headed to Bend, Florence or Portland.
Bend was still a sleepy Central Oregon town. Portland meant Powell's Book Store and Rose's Deli. Florence was "the coast", and I steelhead fished the Siuslaw and Lake Creek with a native Oregonian...Lots of memories.
We returned for an Oregon stint from 1990-94. I wrote books and did freelance work from Oakridge, including magazine journalism and the weekly "Drive Time" column for the Oregonian. Spent the limited spare time I had as a volunteer with the Lane County SAR and local Jeep 4WD club.
Still have many friends and family at Eugene-Springfield and Portland, including the Warn staff at Clackamas. Chad at Warn has a BRP, he was one of the voices that encouraged my purchase of the 2000 XR650R.
Though home is the greater Reno Area these days, our compass has a strong pull NW. Let's keep the BRP and Oregon momentum going at the forums!
On the BRP starting note, I just did an Acerbis 6.3 gallon Sahara tank install and caught one of those one-kick-only starts on video. Expect a short video clip post at the forums shortly.
Thanks for your participation and comments, Scott. Looking forward to our discussion at these forums!
Moses
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Pleased to know you're taking the safe path...Perhaps we'll have the opportunity to share a high altitude trail some time and can benefit from full lung capacity!
Your approach, given the constraints, makes the best sense. POR-15 does neutralize rust and should provide a residual effect as well...Keep us posted and share some pics, too!
The rust scourge is real, you're being practical here. Like your California and Arizona experiences, Nevada is bone dry and rust free. The '55 CJ-5 featured in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 came with exposed bare metal and had set outside for 20 years at Carson City before I found it. Rust was surface only, easily removed without any sign of stress to underlying sheet metal. The frame was pristine. By contrast, a friend from Ohio sent me a Spicer Model 18 transfer case core from a vintage CJ-6. The Jeep had been subjected to years of salted winter runways at an airport. Lubricated gears and internals were still intact...The iron case looked "wet" from salt saturation. It was scrap.
Moses
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You're very welcome, BRPRider! My satisfaction with this machine is beyond all expectations. When researching and comparing, I sensed the XR650R was right for my riding venues and style. We have access to open desert, lots of it, and like you say, the XR650R clocks to 80-plus mph in a heartbeat. Every one of my XR650R test videos includes the speedo needle straight up at 80 mph, often higher with the 14-48 stock sprockets. If my speedo is accurate at the top, I'm exceeding 100 mph without effort. Considering break-in and my fresh orientation to the machine, there's no burning desire to discover flat-out 4th gear yet...Under safe conditions, I briefly touched 105, and there was obviously more rpm and pull to go.
I just installed the Acerbis Sahara fuel tank and will share impressions plus an install how-to HD video at the magazine. Though the bike is beefier than stock with TCI racks, Nelson-Rigg bags, a dual-sport conversion and now the 6.3 gallon fuel tank, it pulls so hard that along with the break-in, the added weight is, frankly, not that noticeable!
Realistically, the low speed single track, quasi-trials stuff, which we have at northern Nevada in the form of basaltic lava flows, shale and tight trails, does require finessing with the added pounds of fuel. Like any sensible dirt rider, I always adjust my riding to the bike and conditions. Changing from the XR350R to the BRP, or your crossing back and forth from the 2001 BRP to the CRF and KTM, always means altering your riding technique. That's motorcycling!
Please share a topic about your riding locales and favorite venues for these great dirt machines! Brilliant that you found a virtually new 2005 XR650R to provide another lifetime of riding the ultimate desert enduro bike! (Doubt you'll wear out the 2001 any time soon, and if you need to build the top end, you know where there's a how-to video rental!) Some pictures or video footage would be enjoyed...
As a footnote on building an XR650R top end, I'm really pleased with the Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft and a fresh Enerpulse Pulstar spark plug that I just installed and am now testing. Will share more about the spark plug shortly!
Moses
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yj89...Sounds like a possible disconnected vacuum source to the PCV valve or a distinct vacuum leak in the system...Below are the parts diagrams for both your air filtration system and the emissions devices and vacuum circuits. (I tossed in the EGR vacuum source simply for more detail.) These PDF diagrams can be "zoomed-in" for details:
YJ Wrangler 2.5L Air Filtration.pdf YJ Wrangler 2.5L Emissions Circuits.pdf YJ Wrangler 2.5L EGR Vacuum.pdf
For a quick check, with the engine idling, see if you have vacuum pull on the engine/crankcase side of the PCV valve. Remove the hose and valve as if servicing this periodic replacement item. Hold your thumb over the engine side of the valve, engine idling and while blipping the throttle. Make sure there is vacuum pull. If not, there could be a buildup of crankcase pressure causing your oil weeping around the grommet. There must be ventilation to the crankcase. If not, look over the diagrams carefully and see where there might be a disconnect here.
Parts descriptions and numbers are noted, these are official Mopar parts. The PCV valve, if defective, can be readily replaced...I see that the OEM air box had a delay valve on the vacuum circuit. I'm curious how K&N deals with this and also the factory thermal vacuum switch. What do the installation instructions say about these functions?
Was there oil in the OEM air box? You can determine actual engine blowby with the PCV valve out of the valve cover and the engine idling. Remove the oil fill cap. If you're getting a steady pulsing of crankcase fumes with an oily smoke, your engine has blowby. Check the compression, or better yet, do a cylinder leakdown test.
Others with K&N filter conversions may have additional insights to add here...
Moses
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Powertrain Control System issues with the E4OD can cause your symptoms. At this point, let's avoid the hydraulic system or friction clutch issues, which generally require a transmission rebuild.
For now, I would focus on the VSS. This is a crucial signal in the PCS, and you're getting a clear message of a fault. Before racing to replace the VSS, look for wiring and connector troubles, the easier remedies. If the VSS unit tests defective, I would replace it, regardless of whether there are additional troubles with the transmission.
The 12 and 13 codes should also be explored and resolved, though they may have no direct bearing on the 2nd gear skip-and-slip. Also check the shift linkage and the shift module at the transmission for clear engagement in each shifter position. Chock the wheels, set the parking brake, and do not run the engine during this check! You're simply sensing the "feel" of each shift detent position at the transmission's manual lever. It might help to have an assistant move the shift lever. Make sure your helper does not crank the engine over while releasing the shift lever from Park!
These are the least costly repairs and troubleshooting steps for openers. We can go much deeper. If you need details on troubleshooting the VSS, just ask.
Moses
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Case...I was the first person in the U.S. to Rhino coat a Jeep tub. Rhino dealers were well versed on bed liners. I had a friend, Rick Preston at Rick's RV Center in El Cajon, who tipped me off about Rhino with his one-ton Ford dually's bed protection. I was sold on the idea with the caveat you describe: Any coating must go on a clean and rust free surface without voids!
That was 1989, the vehicle was an early-'80s CJ-5 project for OFF-ROAD Magazine, and I publicized Rhino. I took "Project Trials Machine" to a Rhino franchisee at north San Diego County. After scratching their heads, they shot the bare tub, fresh out of a light professional primer/sealer job by Louie Russo. (That vehicle has been depicted in my Jeep Owner's Bible since the First Edition in 1992.) Today, Jeep tub coating is common.
I have used powder coating, professionally applied bed/tub liner, primer/sealer and paint, spray-on undercoating, everything known. The concern is exactly what you share: a void can lead to treacherous exfoliation rust (nice for book illustrations but dangerous stuff!). Exfoliation can occur with powder coating, bed liner, primer and paint, undercoating and any improperly prepped substrate. The '76-up CJs seem especially rust prone; however, this could also be a reflection on the dramatic increase in the use of salt on winter roads...My CJ-5 suffered from its previous owner's residence at the Rust Belt. I've heard stories from Michigan friends who have seen Jeep frames split from inside-out rust!
After a half-century of exposure to the bottom sides of Jeep 4x4s, I prefer seeing what's going on with the chassis. In my view, quality epoxy primer/sealer after complete descaling and cleaning can be a base for a high quality black enamel coating. Done right and spray washed regularly during salted road months, this can hold up and provide protection.
If your goal is undercoating, and if you're confident that there is no rust and everything is sealed well, you might consider a commercial undercoating job by a shop qualified. They can apply undercoating uniformly and with even chemistry. If you prefer doing this on your own, 3M does make commercial grade undercoating that could adhere and seal well on a base of black epoxy primer over descaled, clean metal.
Between 2005 and 2008, I performed mechanical restoration work on muscle cars and vintage (mostly postwar) classic automobiles and trucks. The variety of work included rebuilding/restoring vintage manual and automatic transmissions and steering gears. Iron and aluminum cases were first pressure washed in a cabinet then bead blasted (which left slight etching on aluminum) before spotless cleaning in the cabinet washer with a thorough flash drying. I found that the best sealing and rust preventative for iron manual transmissions (those that did not require color matching to OEM) was the use of satin or semi-gloss black commercial epoxy primer. I applied this with a spray gun and used a respirator system to prevent respiratory damage and other health challenges.
Black epoxy semi-gloss leaves a quality, uniform finish with excellent sealing ability. It works well as a base coat for color, too. The only downside is that this primer does not tolerate UV well and should not be left exposed to sunlight. A manual transmission, transfer case, steering gearbox or Jeep undercarriage should never see the sun—if you keep it topside up! Epoxy primer and quality enamel provide reasonable protection from rock and gravel chipping. Of course, undercoating over epoxy primer, or a primer/sealer and compatible paint with good adhesion, would provide even more chip protection.
I'd like to see others jump into this discussion and comment on their best approach for preventing salted road damage and rust caused by humidity at places like Tennessee!
Moses
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David, by sheer coincidence, I received this press release. Thought you might find the info interesting. This is proactive and a possible link in your quest for E85 kits and insights:
Enerpulse Technologies and Green Bridge Technologies Join Forces.pdf
I'm working with Enerpulse, testing their Pulstar® energy releasing spark plugs. I've interviewed the CEO at Enerpulse for a pending video on the plugs. Enerpulse's involvement with Green Bridge is a positive on the E85 front.
Moses
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Exactly, David! The flasher rate will be determined by amperage and resistance load. I doubt whether Honda did anything out of the ordinary here. As you note, there is a rectifier, and the bulbs are normal 12V, presumably. (They could be 6V, but that's archaic even for motorcycles.) This means that the voltage rate must be within norms for a 12V bulb.
Flashers like we're discussing will increase the cycling speed rate with longer runs of wire or poor grounds. (This is a DC system where grounds are as important as the hot leads. The system should be negative ground or "Earth" as some call it.)
On turn signal systems like we're discussing, an auto or truck pulling a trailer with lighting will cause an older type flasher to speed up its cycle rate. This is due to added bulb amperage load and the resistance of the longer wire runs. The flasher contact heats quicker and breaks the current at a more rapid rate. More modern systems compensate for this amperage load and resistance. My Dodge Ram 3500 hauler doesn't seem to care how much trailer lighting is added. It uses the same flasher system. (These are relay and electronic module controlled.) On older style automotive flasher systems (like what we suspect your Honda XR650R has), you would install a different "trailer light" flasher when towing.
Moses
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Jeff, grease could back up to the fitting. Here's a Dana-Spicer manual that illustrates the needs for your driveline:
On Page 25, you'll get an idea of Dana-Spicer's approach to maintenance. Very stringent at 2000-3000 mile grease intervals! Obviously, this is for fleet operators who actually perform preventive care on trucks.
Unfortunately, the illustrations are low resolution (try reducing the image size or zooming out for an improved view), but it appears that there is a grease lip seal at the inside edge of these spherical joints. If that's the case, the lip points inward to contain grease, and you want to pump grease gently through this joint to prevent risking damage to the lip seal over time. My guess is that Dana-Spicer wants lubrication techs to replenish grease regularly, not flush out the entire cavity or stress the seal too much.
I would stick with a quality hand gun and premium grease. Avoid mixing chemistry once you have a grease type and brand. Lithium is okay, moly would likely be better here. Starplex II holds up quite well and provides peace of mind. There are several Chevron alternatives if you're curious. I can provide trade names. Starplex II is a Texaco product and may be difficult to source locally. I bought cases of grease gun cartridges from the local Texaco bulk plant and used this grease faithfully on GM live beam axle wheel bearings and chassis needs like yours. We had two Suburban 3/4-ton 4x4s, an '86 and '87, and each had front wheel bearing packs with Starplex II plus periodic lubrication with this same type grease.
Moses
Front Brake Hose Clearance to Tires
in General Repairs and Tips (See Other Forums for Specific Vehicle Topics)
Posted
Excellent point to share, Alberto. I am in the process of creating a how-to video for performing brake restoration on 1991-up Jeep models with disc front/drum rear brakes. In filming, I devoted several video clips to the question of installing brake hoses properly.
Many owners have lift kits that come with long, braided steel aftermarket hoses. Sometimes the hoses are too long and wind up rubbing the tires. In other cases, the original hoses with oversized tires can create an issue. Another source of trouble is when the caliper and hose get twisted during service work or the hose is not attached at the correct position on the caliper.
This is a major safety issue as you describe and illustrate. Always check for hose clearance at the full range of axle/suspension travel (up and down and sideways articulation) plus the full left-right turn of the front wheels.
Thanks for bringing this to light. I am very glad to hear that you avoided an accident!
Moses