Moses Ludel
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We share an appreciation for outdoor recreation. Whether you're a hardcore four-wheeler, quad or side-by-side rider, dirt motorcyclist or avid outdoor recreationalist who hikes trails or plies waterways in a kayak or canoe, a fundamental requirement is physical fitness. Lack of fitness leads to injuries that can end your favorite pursuits. This forum provides the space and a platform for sharing health and fitness experiences while inspiring each other to be healthier and more physically fit!
A common misconception has crept into the outdoor community in recent decades. Many believe that lack of fitness simply means turning to another kind of vehicle for our motorized recreation. This can take the form of abandoning dirt motorcycling and buying a quad or side-by-side. Or maybe selling the quad and buying a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 4x4. In either case, it's assumed that the new vehicle type will be less demanding physically and allow continued access to outdoor recreation.
Note: I can fully subscribe to this if an individual has severe impairment; however, I would also draw attention to guys like Jake Munoz, Jesse Williamson, Chris Ridgway and Fred Meyling. Jake has been through seven major spinal surgeries and drives the Rubicon Trail in his heavily modified flatfender Jeep CJ. Jesse Williamson is the first double amputee U.S. combat vet to compete in the Baja 1000 on a dirt motorcycle, and Jesse has now raced the 2013 Baja 1000, the 2014 Baja 500 and the 2014 Baja 1000 on the Warrior Built team with 1st Sgt. Nick Hamm and other combat vet riders. Fred Meyling, a career Army officer, is now paraplegic. He has driven on the Rubicon Trail in a Jeep 4x4. Jake Munoz talks about the imperative need to rehabilitate with physical training in our interview at the magazine. Jake's exercise regimen is phenomenal and an inspiration to anyone rehabilitating from injuries or a surgery.
Another example is the modern outdoorsman/hunter paradigm where the use of a 4x4, quad or side-by-side has taken the place of traditional on-foot or horse packing hunts. When I was a bit younger, a day's mule deer hunt could be a hike of 6-8 miles in rugged, mountainous terrain with my lever action .30 caliber Winchester long rifle (open semi-buckhorn sights) in hand. Today, many hunters boast of walking less than 50 yards from their winch equipped quad or side-by-side to a downed animal. This has many implications, but for the purpose of this forum, I'll stick to the matter of physical fitness.
Also overlooked is the fact that lack of physical conditioning is dangerous. An out of shape recreationalist crawling the Rubicon Trail in a 4x4 or the unconditioned urbanite from sea level hunting elk at 12,000 feet in the Rockies is at extreme risk. If the quad, side-by-side or 4x4 becomes stuck or breaks down, stacking rocks or walking back to the nearest paved road could prove deadly.
I've been an active member of the 4x4 community for over a half century now. I'm also an avid outdoorsperson and physical fitness advocate. One observation worth sharing is that an out of condition four-wheeler is at risk under the best of circumstances, and anyone is vulnerable here. The annual Easter Jeep Safari at Moab provides an excellent metaphor. Without muscle tone, knocking around on the rocks in the best equipped 4x4 can be brutal on the spine, kidneys and other vital organs. If core and other muscles are weak and lax (with characteristic omentum girth hanging over one's belt), bouncing around all day in a 4x4 or quad can cause internal organ, spinal and skeletal distress or damage. One of the best means for preventing a "bad back" is building a strong set of core muscles.
Cardio-vascular fitness is also paramount, especially when traveling from low elevations to high altitude recreation. Years ago, I guided a media launch over Imogene Pass in 4WD Geo Trackers for Chevrolet. As we approached the summit of nearly 14,000 feet, a Seattle-based colleague became cyanotic. Though summertime, he characterized his symptoms as "the flu". I spotted the blue lips and lightheadedness immediately as "altitude sickness" and quickly got the group to Telluride before driving my fellow journalist to Farmington, New Mexico where enough atmosphere and oxygen led to his full recovery. (This was a judgment call, the alternative was a trip to the Telluride hospital's emergency room.) Dehydration and genetic factors play a large role with altitude sickness, and a period of acclimatizing does help here. However, this was an individual whose most strenuous activity was getting in and out of a Geo Tracker to take photos, and he had lapsed into a severely threatening health state.
There is also the case of overdoing exercise. One of my brothers-in-law has an expression that aptly applies to his fitness level and penchant for outdoor pursuits. An avid bow hunter, he refers to his zealous gym time on the elliptical machine as "an 18-year-old brain in a 66-year-old body!" This has led to a forthcoming knee replacement following an athletic and physical life that included many years of pounding asphalt with running shoes to maintain his cardio fitness. There are limits and the need for balance here.
I have a major incentive for staying physically fit that my wife would likely characterize in my brother-in-laws terms. (Actually, he's a year older than I am.) My metaphor for staying fit is the Honda XR650R dirt motorcycle and vintage '84 XR350R. Each bike demands physical fitness. While riding dirt motorcycles in the desert or on rocky trials-like terrain is highly physical and constantly works the five major muscle groups, this cannot be my sole exercise regimen. In fact, after a long period of inconsistent exercise, I went to the gym faithfully for four months before returning to dirt motorcycling. The best way to avoid injury in any athletic or outdoor recreational pursuit is physical conditioning.
I'll gladly share my lifetime routine and commitment to reasonable physical conditioning and nutrition. None of us is exempt from the negative impact of poor conditioning or nutrition. Despite this, each of us has gone through periods of neglect and even avoidance of exercise and proper nutrition. Some of the health and fitness commitment is aspiration, some inspiration, and ultimately the resolution is consistent perspiration...Considering our growing number of forums members, we should be able to build an impressive information base from our conditioning and nutritional experiences. It begins right here!
Moses
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David...When you look at the combination valve illustrated in the PDF (lower page), there are three functions: 1) Hold-Off, 2) Warning Switch and 3) Proportioning. Again, this brake system is a disc front with drum rear brakes.
The warning switch provides the lamp signal if one end of the brake hydraulic system or the other should fail. If your new master cylinder does not have a common fluid reservoir and is a divided cylinder with separate fluid reservoirs for front and rear brakes, there will be individual fluid supplies to the front brakes and the rear brakes. This provides a safety factor if one end of the brake system fails or leaks. You would not have the failure/warning switch and a lamp signal, though. There may be aftermarket switches available for warning lamps. One switch would be required for the front system, one for the rear.
I would agree that a short wheelbase Jeep CJ-7 with stiff springs and big tires is far less likely to transfer/pitch weight forward and lighten the rear of the vehicle (i.e., cause rear wheel lockup) under hard braking. If you follow their advice and leave the proportioning valve out, test the brake system cautiously and thoroughly in a safe environment...
Hydraulic pressure boost, if you mean the OEM type that receives pressurized fluid from the power steering pump, is well tested. My Dodge Ram/Cummins 3500 truck and other diesel trucks (with no engine vacuum source) use a hydraulic brake booster. GM has used this type of boost since the '80s on light truck brake systems. I worked as a GMC truck dealership powertrain, chassis and warranty mechanic when these boosters first came into the market on 6.2L diesel powered full-size Jimmy and pickup models. The booster can be reliable and provide the kind of pressure desired when the engine is running. (Vacuum boost requires a running engine, too. Under the best conditions, you will only get a few pedal pumps of vacuum boost once the engine stalls.)
A major advantage with a hydraulic booster is the space saving over a large vacuum booster. This can help with engine access, space for accessories and underhood tidiness.
Will you be using an iron tandem master cylinder with dual reservoirs? Curious what master cylinder is paired with the hydraulic booster...Do you have a photo of the unit or link to the product website? Does this setup require a special power steering pump supplied with the package, or do you use an OEM GM power steering pump for an LS engine?
Keep us posted!
Moses
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David, I'm glad this is useful...Regarding the explanation of a combination valve, I'll begin with a brief anecdote.
I've always been "academic", which comes as no surprise to the forum members! In the early '80s, I was teaching Automotive Technology at the San Diego Job Corps facility, and on our shoestring budget, we bought a used 1972 Buick Riviera. (The 455 V-8 was emission detuned that year with lower compression, yet the torque was still impressive.) I highly value automotive and truck OEM and professional trade manuals, and to my great satisfaction, this one-owner car came with a factory workshop manual in the trunk.
Of course, I used the book faithfully for service work, and the early '70s Buicks did not require much beyond routine maintenance. (The largest task was removal of the cylinder heads for a valve job.) That book was packed with wisdom pearls, as GM had a wonderful habit of explaining the function of components, not just how to replace them.
The book shares details on the early combination valve design and purpose. I've applied this useful information as an adult education instructor, journalist and author (including my Jeep, Ford, GM and Toyota truck books).
It seems only fitting to share GM's insightful information as provided to dealerships and the professional trade. Here is the official definition with a cutaway schematic depicting a 1970s circa GM combination valve. (Zoom-in for detail.):
GM Description of Combination Valve.pdf
Note the comments on the combination valve's "Hold-Off" function to accommodate rear drum brakes that have brake shoes with return springs. This description covers vehicles like your factory CJ-7 brakes. With four-wheel disc brakes, the dynamic changes. The brakes at all four wheels have disc calipers, pads and rotors.
Also catch the GM comment about the elimination of the proportioning function on vehicles with high rear wheel loads. This also applies to a vehicle that has less tendency to pitch forward under hard braking. Rear wheel lock-up occurs most often when the weight on the rear wheels becomes light from the vehicle's weight pitching forward. A shorter wheelbase Jeep CJ-7 with wide axles, stiff leaf springs all around, likely gas charged shocks, and weighty oversized tires has less tendency to pitch forward under braking.
Some of us have worked with GM trucks that use a factory manual proportioning valve at the rear axle. We had mid-'80s Suburban 3/4-ton 4x4s with this mechanical linkage and proportioning valve at the rear axle. As the vehicle weight pitches forward under hard braking, the rear axle-to-frame distance increases. Mechanical linkage rotates a valve at the rear axle's hydraulic system. This decreases hydraulic pressure to the rear drum brakes to help prevent rear tire/wheel lockup. When the truck has a trailer with a load distribution/equalizer hitch weighting the rear of the vehicle, the frame height is more level, allowing full brake pressure application at the rear brakes...Think of this as a factory "mechanical linkage proportioning valve"!
In the PDF illustration, note that GM uses a pin at the front of the combination valve to permit proper bleeding of the brake system. On this GM combination valve, you depress the pin to bleed the front brakes...Similarly, on your Jeep CJ-7 OEM system, there is a special tool that holds a shuttle valve on the combination valve in a specific position during brake bleeding. There are differences between the GM valve and Jeep type.
Moses
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Biggman100...Don't get my wife started on my "keeping stuff" and storage sheds. Wife Donna and your wife should not compare notes! Donna subscribes to the theory that if you haven't used something in the last six month, you don't need it. Tools and equipment? Can that apply here?
We consciously chose to 'downsize' in 2009, selling our 3 acres with home and "dream shop" at Yerington. The move to Fernley involved compressing a 2400 square foot automotive shop-studio (plus 600 square feet of "bonus storage" above the office) into a suburban home with a 3-car garage. I strategically restructured the former shop as a 480 square foot shop studio. (Tall, custom built 100 mph wind proof carports provide sanctuary for the magazine's vehicles.) This move provided an opportunity to draw the line on what to keep, and my metaphor became the loaded question, "What would our kids do with this stuff?" At the time, 33 years of marriage and children had included shuffling my "pack rat" overage through numerous moves, from Nevada to Oregon, Oregon to California, California back to Oregon and, finally, back to Nevada in 1994.
The inventory? Visualize the usual accumulation plus scores of heavy boxes packed with magazines, essentially my published work, dating from the early '80s to 2008. Add to that the "important scraps of paper" and memorabilia related to who knows what...
I parked the car hauling trailer within the shop and parallel to the office, installed the 4-foot plywood sideboards on the trailer, went upstairs to the "bonus room" mezzanine storage area, sorted stuff sensibly, and tossed every bit of "What would the kids and grandkids do with this?" overage over the railing and into the car hauler. Two trips to the transfer station, with the tandem axles and tires crushed each time, benefited from the generous use of the station's backhoe to drag the weighty mass of paper and "stuff" out of the trailer. Finally, things were in perspective.
The accumulated home exercise equipment, yes, the kind that eventually serves as clothes racks, went to the Boys & Girls Club. In the end, we kept the house square footage and downsized the shop, added a 10' x 20' shed now bearing items "to go through soon", and have made the 480 square feet of shop-studio work. I am very comfortable with this arrangement, as it is a shop backdrop much like others—those with a home garage, a small commercial shop or a pole barn...I intend to do an HD video soon on which tools and equipment are vital for a highly productive, fully functional yet compact automotive and fabricating shop—without wasting space on overage and pack ratting...Just as soon as I get the current project out of my 480 square foot, downsized shop!
Moses
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Fantastic photos, David! Shop looks great, reminds me of our rural home and shop at Yerington, Nevada. We lived and worked from that property for 15 years (1994-2009), and the shop was backdrop for several books, including the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manuals! I like your John Deere tractor, too. My hydraulic "engine lift" was a compact John Deere 4310 diesel 4x4 with front end loader and scraper box...Smooth control there, great alternative to a cherry picker!
My approach with upgrade brake systems and brake master cylinders, boosters and proportioning valves is to model after a similar OEM system. For example, if your entire braking system will be Chevy 1/2-ton caliper, I would consider a master cylinder that has dimensions like the OE donor or facsimile truck. When I refer to dimensions, I mean two critical things: 1) piston or bore diameter and 2) stroke of the piston. The master cylinder must displace the correct amount of brake fluid for the size of the calipers at the wheels. The booster must be a match for the master cylinder, and the linkage from the pedal into the booster, and the booster into the master cylinder, must have proper settings.
There are aftermarket master cylinder/booster combinations available that also meet these requirements and will specifically fit your Jeep chassis. We discuss this at a forum post by 60Bubba, and his approach for a CJ-7 like yours looks practical: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/437-dual-diaphragm-brake-booster-upgrade-for-a-cj-7-jeep/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Bbooster. 60Bubba shares that the setup fits well. Read down the thread, there are back and forth comments and sharing of important points. See my comments about setting up pedal linkage free play and booster pushrod clearance. Make sure the piston fluid displacement works with 4-wheel disc brakes and calipers like you have planned. You need a master cylinder capable of handling front and rear disc brake calipers, not just two calipers (front) and two drum brake (rear) wheel cylinders like a stock 1981 CJ-7.
There are three other topic posts that provide additional insight: 1) http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/216-dana-44-front-axle-swap-into-1985-jeep-cj-7/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Bbooster#entry2188; 2) http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/396-changing-1985-jeep-cj-7-from-manual-to-power-brakes/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Bbooster#entry2077 and 3) http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/219-another-grand-wagoneer-to-late-cj-parts-mate-up/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Bbooster.
Note: I accessed these four posts quickly by using the forums Search box. First, set the search box drop down choices to "Forums". Insert these words: "brake booster". A similar search under the words "master cylinder" would turn up material. The forums have grown considerably, and it's now helpful and practical to use the Search box. With the right keywords, it works!
As for brake line size, again look to the size used by a GM 1/2-ton for a baseline. (Determine whether the calipers are U.S. or metric size fittings, as this could dictate the replacement lines needed.) The 1981 CJ-7 piping is ample and may work. Your concern here is sensible, though most modern disc front, drum rear brake systems have sufficient brake tubing size. Compare to be sure, and if you can keep the OE tubing, it does have the advantage of armor guard or wire protective wrapping at vulnerable points. That's a plus for a 4x4 used off-road. If you replace piping, use brake grade tubing, wire wrapped at least for key areas.
For proportioning, the master cylinder/booster source may have suggestions. There's likely a proportioning or combination valve that is optimal for the four-wheel disc brakes. You could consider an OE setup like the later TJ Wrangler with four-wheel disc brakes to have the combination valve feature. This provides proportioning plus a safety switch-over and lamp cue for a brake system failure at one end, similar to what your OE CJ-7 has now.
I have used manual proportioning valves, and they can work. Wilwood and others offer quality products. The simpler manual proportioning valves lack one key feature: They will not apply "timed" brake application at one end first. This is especially important on disc front/drum rear brakes, where the rear brakes need to receive fluid pressure just slightly ahead of the front discs. This accounts for rear brake shoe return spring tension, shoe-to-drum clearance and lag time when compared to front disc pads that ride directly on the rotors. Disc brakes apply immediately when fluid pressure reaches the caliper.
By applying rear brakes slightly ahead of the front brakes, the timed rear braking helps prevent front end dive during heavy brake application. This is a key function of OE proportioning on disc front/drum rear brakes. Timing is dictated by chassis engineering, brake capacity and type, vehicle weight, weight distribution and wheelbase length, dive tendency and risk of wheel lock-up.
Rear brake lock-up is always a concern, and the system must be balanced to prevent the rear wheels from locking up under non-skid braking. When only the rear wheels lock up, the most common cause is front end dive and weight pitching forward. When this happens, the rear of the vehicle lifts up and lightens the load on the rear tires. Rear tire/wheel lockup occurs.
Note: A shorter 94-inch wheelbase vehicle like your Jeep CJ-7 poses less risk of front end dive. Likely you have stiff springs planned and oversized tires, and this reduces front end dive even more. Always test brakes in a safe driving environment. Be aware that rear wheel lockup can spin a vehicle around...Your parts choices and success story here will be of great interest to others, David!
The simpler manual proportioning valve meters down or restricts fluid (like closing a faucet slightly) at one end of the vehicle, typically the rear. This helps prevent wheel lockup by lowering overall fluid volume and pressure available at that end of the braking system. Check out the Wilwood catalog, there may be more sophisticated manual proportioning setups available. Summit Racing offers a variety of braking solutions for custom systems like you're building.
My safety benchmark would be an OEM four-wheel disc brake proportioning/combination valve setup similar to either a late Jeep TJ Wrangler or a Chevy 1/2-ton truck, depending upon the master cylinder used. Again, try the aftermarket master cylinder/booster supplier that 60Bubba used. Explain your axle choices and wheel brake sizing. They may have a quick, tested solution here. Please share your findings...
If you decide to test the stock CJ-7 combination valve, be aware of the quirky shuttle pin at the valve when bleeding the brake system. I talk about this in the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86. If you do not hold the pin in the proper position while bleeding the brakes, one end of the system will be shut off and not bleed properly.
Please ask questions and share your findings as the project unfolds. Others will benefit from your "parts list" for this brake upgrade. The CJ-7 will be an awesome machine, your photos already say a lot!
Moses
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Yes, dderrik10! You'll likely be fine with a wiring schematic and the XJ Cherokee wiring harness. A hint: Mopar Performance got the Mopar EFI conversion kit wiring harness down to a four-wire interface with the factory wiring on a 1981-90 CJ or YJ. This is the reason I suggested a peek at the Mopar schematic if available anywhere...The Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (soon in your hands!) with the Mopar EFI kit installation on a 4.2L inline six will furnish details.
Since the earlier two-rail Mopar EFI conversion kit is patterned off a '94-'95 Wrangler/Cherokee 60-way system, most components will look like your 1991 XJ Cherokee's induction and EFI/MPI 4.0L system.
If you do the AX15 swap and need to rebuild the AX15, they're worth it. I have the detailed steps (over 200 of them!) in the HD video rental available at Vimeo On Demand. Here's the link if you need it: http://www.vimeo.com/ondemand/ax15rebuild.
I'm available for questions or factory wiring schematics! You cannot go wrong with a properly built 4.6L stroker six...Minimal cost difference over a stock 4.0L rebuild with so much to gain. Note the tuning comments for injectors, that's a key element and relatively minor change.
Moses
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I've just switched to the Enerpulse Pulstar spark plug after testing these plugs and researching their capability. Here is the coverage and also an opportunity to see my Honda XR motorcycles in action: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Testing-the-Enerpulse-Pulstar-Spark-Plugs.html. The video shares my riding venues and why I selected this spark plug. The Pulstar spark plug helps offset short-term altitude changes without the need to alter jetting...
For your testing, since you're at sea level and we want a consistent baseline, I suggest the NGK BKR7E-11. (The Denso K22PR-U11 is an alternative if the NGK is not readily available.) The NGK BKR7E-11 is the factory standard listing for the Honda XR650R. The BKR8E-11 is colder and optional. Being colder, I would not use the "8E" while you're experimenting with fuel mixtures. I would also avoid using a "performance" spark plug like the Pulstar until you are certain the jetting is correct.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results, Arnaldo!
Moses
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Great, Don...You'll be getting the correct edition, the EFI conversion in the book is a two-rail Mopar EFI Conversion Kit with parts similar to your 1991 XJ Cherokee donor 4.0L engine...Trust this will be helpful!
Moses
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Hi, Don...I'll jump in here, other members and owners can share their experiences, too!
You're right about the adapter from the AX15 to D300 transfer case, the issue is the transfer case clocking position and making sure the spline count and stick-out length of the transmission output shaft match up with the Dana 300 input. Contact Advance Adapters at 1-800-350-2223 for technical details and the parts list. You can get an overview of your adapter needs at the website: www.advanceadapters.com.
Engine mounting brackets should swap over from your current 4.2L/258 inline six. Check the back of engine/transmission length issues and the 4.0L/AX15 measurements from the bellhousing face at the engine block to the transfer case. Take into consideration any adapter thickness, too. This will dictate the final position of the transfer case and whether drivelines need cutting or added tube length. If so, you'll also be repositioning the transmission/transfer case mount position on the skid plate, a relatively easy task. The torque brace pin will need relocating, too. If there is significant movement, check the transfer case shift lever position with the floorboard opening, this may require adjustment...Let us know what you discover here.
The wiring can be handled one of two ways. If separate Mopar EFI kit parts are available, specifically the wiring harness for the first MPI/EFI kit patterned after the 1994-95 YJ Wrangler factory EFI, that would be a ready made harness and include the wiring to the fuel pump near the gas tank. (Yes, you will need a PCM-triggered electric fuel pump, it can be externally mounted like the Mopar EFI kit pump.)
If this harness is not available, you're left with using the harness from the XJ Cherokee and following a wiring schematic to tie all of this together. This does require some automotive electrical savvy, it can be done, many do it. You'll be using everything from the PCM to the over-engine harness, EFI hookups, the coolant sensor wiring, and so forth. Each signal that the 60-way (terminal count) PCM requires needs consideration. If there is a wiring schematic of the Mopar EFI Conversion Kit available (possibly HESCO can supply), that would be very helpful, even if you use the XJ factory wiring.
Note: Your 1991 4.0L MPI/EFI is a two-rail type and requires a return fuel line from the EFI fuel rail to the fuel tank. This is not difficult to devise, as the 4.2L likely uses a return pipe from the fuel filter to the tank with its mechanical fuel pump system. You can mate to that piping if it's large enough in diameter or fabricate a return pipe and hoses that will join the fuel tank at the same location as your original fuel return line. Use higher pressure EFI-rated fuel hose and Euro or EFI type clamps. If you want to see how all of this comes together, I cover it in detail within the Jeep® CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86, available from 4WD parts sources, Advance Adapters or directly from Bentley Publishers. Here is overview material on your subject and this install:
1) Carburetion Versus EFI Conversion for the 4.2L Jeep Inline Six...Should you convert your 4.2L Jeep inline six to EFI? In this feature, Moses Ludel contrasts the BBD carburetor and the Mopar Performance EFI conversion kit. www.4wdmechanix.com/Carburetion-Versus-EFI-Conversion-for-the-4.2L-Jeep-Inline-Six.html
2) How-to: Tuning the Fuel Injected Jeep Inline Six Stroker Motor...The Jeep inline six stroker motor with EFI or MPI develops maximum performance when tuned properly. Selecting the correct MPI injectors and matching the fuel supply system to the bigger engine and higher horsepower output require the modifications described here. www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html3) Jeep Fuel Pressure Requirements...Fuel pump and system pressure is different for carburetion, TBI and MPI. In this article, Moses Ludel discusses fuel pressure requirements for various Jeep engines and chassis designs. www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Fuel-Pressure-Requirements.html (This article has detailed and helpful illustrations, Don. View closely.)3) Jeep CJ Inline Six Stroker Rebuild...Moses Ludel shares details about the Jeep inline six stroker upgrades. 1972-86 CJ models,1972-up Jeepster Commando models, full-size J-trucks and Cherokee 4WDs with the 232 or 258 inline six can each benefit from a 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L Jeep inline six stroker engine upgrade.4) YJ & TJ Jeep Stroker Six Upgrade...Moses Ludel shares details about the Jeep inline six stroker upgrade for the 1991-up YJ and TJ Wrangler. When the original 4.0L inline six is needs rebuilding, consider the 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L Jeep inline six stroker rebuild option. Complete history and evaluation available here!5) Rebuilding the Two-Barrel BBD Feedback Carburetor...The 1981-86 Jeep CJ models equipped with a 258 inline six have the Carter BBD two-barrel carburetor. Many owners and shops find this carburetor challenging. In this detailed 'how-to', Moses Ludel troubleshoots and restores the BBD to 'as new' standards.I would say that your biggest challenge is not the mechanical side but rather the time-consuming wiring side. I like wiring work, not everyone does. Splices for EFI should be wire lapped and rosin flux soldered, covered with heavy duty or multiple layer heat shrink tubing. Voltage readings are critical for EFI, simple butt-crimp connectors cannot assure a proper voltage reading, and the open ends of cheap splice connectors beg issues like corrosion and corrosion wicking up the wires.This is a start...Pleased to add more. Others can join here!
Moses
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Arnaldo...Very pleased to hear about your detailed work. The auto-decompressor has a one-way clutch mechanism. You need to rotate the crankshaft very slowly in its normal direction of rotation and do not pass the TDC mark on the compression stroke. If you do pass this mark, continue rotating, nearly 2 full crankshaft turns, until the TDC mark just lines up on the compression stroke. Do not try to rotate the crankshaft backward to get TDC. With the spark plug removed and the rear wheel raised slightly off the ground, you can put the transmission in a higher gear (4th or 5th) and control the rotation of the crankshaft by slowly rotating the rear wheel.
The valve adjuster screws should have similar height, not the same but not extremely different heights. If you need to back off the adjuster a lot on the exhaust valve with the auto-decompressor (at the right side of the engine) to get any valve clearance, the auto-decompressor is likely engaged. Rotate the crankshaft to TDC on the compression stroke once more and see if that clears up the auto-decompressor issue.
Note: The left side exhaust valve opens from the manual decompressor lever at the handlebar. Make sure there is normal free play at the cable to allow this valve to close without any interference from the manual decompressor. This is the cable at the left or spark plug side of the XR650R cylinder head.
Your change to the 180 main jet will help. When you can ride the cycle with dependability, the spark plug coloration and smoothness of the carburetor transitions will let you know whether the jetting and needle setting are correct. Checking the spark plug after running the engine at various (sustained) throttle settings is helpful. I'd be pleased to comment on the spark plug coloration. Make notes about the engine's speed/throttle opening for each photo.
Moses
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Arnaldo, all of these details are very helpful. I am certain that you will find the 190 main jet excessive, but that will be at mid- to full throttle. The idle and tip-in throttle issues are likely related to the pilot jet size and the needle height.
You're headed richer with each of the changes. 5th clip notch from the top of the needle is a high setting. I believe this is way too much fuel flow. If the engine is tolerating this kind of richness, there may be an air leak at the manifold or carburetor/intake grommet, which would lean out the mixture. The 1.75 idle screw setting is very close to normal and a good sign. Be very careful with this idle screw, its inner stem is small and easily bent if the screw is removed completely and installed with this fine tip even slightly out of center. (This is fairly easy to do.) A bent inner stem on this screw would make it impossible to set a stable idle. From idle to as much as 1/4 throttle speed would be unstable.
Did you run the engine after setting the valves, before the exhaust and jet work? Was it running well after that valve adjustment? Or did you adjust the valves at the same time you installed the Big Gun exhaust? If the valves were adjusted at the time you installed the exhaust, I would carefully check the valve setting again. Be sure that the auto-decompressor is completely off, and the piston must be at TDC (top-dead-center) on the compression stroke. Maybe the valves are set too loose or tight. If there was a considerable adjustment at the exhaust valve side, the auto-decompressor may have been interfering with your clearance check. A possibility.
If the plug reading is rich once you get the idle stable and such, I would restore the jetting to your original settings of 175 and 68S as a baseline for sea level. The engine should run okay with these jets, and if it is running very poorly with the 175 and 68S, with the needle in the original 3rd position, I would check for other possibilities and not change the jets yet. When you do have the engine running well with the 175 and 68S, if the plug shows a lean mix, you can try the 180 and 72 that Big Gun recommended.
The downside of running too rich is that the excess fuel will wash lubricant from the cylinder wall and cause premature piston ring and cylinder wall wear. Too lean, of course, is not good, either. Lean mixtures can overheat the engine, cause detonation, and damage the rings, piston and valves of the engine.
The spark plug color tests may require some thoroughly clean backup spark plugs for accurate readings. Spark plug coloration is a valid and useful way to confirm the air/fuel mixtures at various throttle settings. Again, idle to 1/4 throttle is mostly the idle screw and pilot jet, with some needle jet involvement. Rolling past 1/4 throttle involves the needle height setting and gradually becomes a main jet size concern as the throttle gets wider and the slide with needle rises. From a 175 to a 190 main jet on the XR650R Keihin OE carburetor would not make a lot of difference until the throttle is rolled open. Unless there is something really exceptional going on with the Big Gun slip-on exhaust, the needle height should be 3rd or 4th clip groove at the most.
Note: My engine transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle with the settings I've outlined. The transitions indicate proper jetting and needle setting, tested by gradually increasing throttle and noting the engine smoothness at each throttle setting...For my engine, there is not the slightest hesitation, surge, balking or stalling at any throttle setting. If I set the idle speed at 1400+ rpm when the engine is barely warmed, idle speed will creep up slightly after a hard run. I prefer this to turning the idle speed screw up and down constantly like many describe.
Since your engine seemed to respond better with the very rich 190 jet, make sure you have adequate fuel flow from the tank to the carburetor. The filter in the tank (above the petcock) may be clogged or damaged.
Moses
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Hertfordnc...First off is the question of chassis stamina. The diesel needs to be fitted into a Ram 2500 or 3500. I'd prefer the 3500 if available.
As for frame differences, here is the frame layout for both gas and diesel engine applications from the era you describe. (I used 2005 for these illustrations.) There are motor mount differences, obviously, but this will clarify the basic frame interchangeability:
2005 Dodge Ram Frame Specs.pdf
Start your research here. I have parts details, too, including motor mounts and such, if you need that kind of information. The PDF layouts can be zoomed-in for a bigger image view.
Trust this is helpful...
Moses
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Arnaldo...Thanks for being detailed...The OE carburetor has only one idle mixture screw. I am concerned about the need for a 180 main and 72 pilot due to just the addition of the Big Gun. (175 would be rich at my altitude and typical running environment, 4200-6000 feet.) I run a 172 main and 68 (non-S) pilot. Even these jets flow fuel on the richer side, although I'm not running a tuned exhaust like the Big Gun. I run an uncorked exhaust tip, basically Honda Power Up Kit.
Everyone leaps to tuning. I'm very particular about making sure the basic engine condition and settings are correct. I would want to know the cylinder seal (leakdown test with the valves all closed) and also the valve clearances. A third and ever-present concern with the XR650R is the auto-decompressor mechanism on the camshaft. As you know, I eliminated the auto-decompressor guesswork with the installation of a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft.
Begin by making sure your compression is adequate and normal during cranking. I would return to the 175 and 68S jetting to restore the good starting condition once more. If doing so allows normal starting and idle, do a traditional wide-open-throttle run and shutdown. Then, without burning your fingers, remove the spark plug. Read it. Share photos, I'd be glad to comment on the burn/mixture shown on the spark plug.
As a footnote, if the float level became distorted while changing the jets, the engine could be either starving or flooding. What does the spark plug look like now?
Pleased to assist, Arnaldo. Let's get that XR650R running properly and reliably! The Big Gun should make a positive difference. I would like to know how much...
Moses
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Biggman100...A worn water pump impeller and poor coolant circulation are always a possibility. That's worth checking out, though a bad impeller should also cause summer overheating. At least confirm adequate circulation.
Often overlooked is the thermostat alignment mark. In addition to installing the thermostat with the correct side up, many thermostats have an indexing mark for setting the clock position of the 'stat. Is this an O-ring seal thermostat, a gasket or RTV sealant alone? A concern is whether the thermostat stays seated and sealed in its ledge and does not "float" around with the thermostat housing installed. If the thermostat is loose and allows coolant to circulate around its edges, at low engine rpm the coolant could be bypassing the thermostat instead of being held back by the closed thermostat when the engine is cold.
As for the timing chain, the only relationship between a loose/worn chain and an engine running cold would be lack of manifold vacuum and essentially loss of compression if severe enough. This would also cause the engine to be sluggish and not produce full horsepower, and here we're back to BTUs: less horsepower output, less engine heat output. The timing chain would have to be pretty loose to impact horsepower and cooling.
My quick check for a loose timing chain (engine still assembled with timing cover in place) can be found at: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/174-quick-test-for-engine-timing-chain-wear/?hl=%2Btiming+%2Bchain.
Moses
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Exciting project, Tim! Tow it safely to Fernley...We're on the map for parts and such, Reno/Sparks has a 4-Wheel Parts outlet, Summit Racing's western distribution warehouse is at Sparks with a retail component...Fernley just opened a Big R ranch supply that has a really good supply of everything you'll need to get through a Sunday project with your rolling stock, including hardware, welding, tool needs, electrical, air supply and Carhartt work clothes...See ya round town soon!
Moses
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Biggman100...A couple of thoughts. First, I'm suspect of the fan clutch, too. If it's staying on at low speeds with the engine not laboring, the efficiency of the fan may be great enough to overcome the efforts of the coolant thermostat. (The water pump is obviously working in this case! Replace it only if you suspect wear, a seal leak or a bearing issue.) Test the fan clutch, it should free-wheel with the engine completely cold. There may be some fan drag when starting up after the engine sets cold, though this should quickly free up. When we start a very cold engine, the fan clutch will whir the fan for a moment then gradually release. This is the cold viscous fluid in clutches with fluid drives. Cold ambient temperatures will exaggerate this.
If the fan rotates under power all the time, the engine may not be able to warm up and reach thermostat temperature. If the temperature does get a bit better on the road, this is because acceleration and speed requires horsepower, and horsepower equals approximately 45 BTUs per horsepower. Slight load, low speeds and less BTUs equals a cold cooling system that the thermostat is struggling to warm up.
As for the blowing out of coolant, sounds like a couple of possibilities. One would be an air block in the cooling system from changing the anti-freeze, and the gap could create a pressure pocket within hot coolant. This erupted as a boil over of coolant under pressure, and the coolant spewed out through the overflow. With the new cap, repaired bottle and hose, and burping the system of anti-freeze/coolant air gaps, you should have that problem eliminated.
Here's my approach...When changing coolant/anti-freeze, fill the radiator to the top, cap the radiator, and add coolant/anti-freeze mixture to the right level in the bottle. Initially, make this above the Cold line, as some coolant will certainly syphon into the radiator and engine cooling system. Turn on the heater control lever to "HOT" and flow coolant through the heater core. (Some heaters use a shut-off valve, this assures full flow of coolant.) Run the engine to thermostat temperature, circulate the coolant, then shut the engine off. Allow a complete cool down with the system sealed and coolant in the recovery bottle. This will syphon coolant from the bottle until the radiator is completely full to the cap, after which you can watch coolant level at the bottle. With a sealed cooling system and recovery bottle, coolant level at the bottle is critical, as the radiator must remain full to the cap at all times. Sometimes, the system will take several heat-cool cycles to reach a stable coolant/anti-freeze level.
Another possibility is that too much anti-freeze is in the solution or became isolated without mixing. If you're not using premix 50/50, your own mixture of water and anti-freeze should not be too concentrated or poured into the cooling system as pure anti-freeze. (Mix coolant/anti-freeze and water before pouring it into the radiator or bottle, just to be safe.) I'm not sure what your winter ambient temps do at Upstate New York, you may need -45 degree F protection. If the concentration is too great (read as protection even lower than -60 degrees F or so on a simple hydrometer test), the anti-freeze solution will not expand within itself and can either "boil over" or actually cause a casting crack just like a system full of water only.
Here is a PEAK Anti-Freeze protection chart. This is typical for modern anti-freeze types with 50/50 being -34 degrees F protection. I never run protection below -62 degrees F or 60% concentration. If I were at Fairbanks, Alaska or northern Canada, maybe lower temperature protection would be a consideration. Note the need for a quality, good sealing pressure cap. Consider the cap part of the boil over protection:
What is the proper mixture of antifreeze to water for adequate freeze protection in my area?
While temperatures and climates vary, most vehicles can use our conventional antifreeze protection chart:
Let us know what you find...The 195-degree F thermostat is a very good idea, if you run a 180, there's risk that the engine may not come off its enrichment warm-up cycle. If so, you'll run rich and use more fuel, there's even risk of carbon buildup. The PCM is depending on a warmer engine temperature signal to advance past the cold-start and warm-up phase. As an example, on the Mopar EFI conversion for the inline Jeep 4.2L sixes, Mopar insists on a 195-degree F thermostat for just these reasons. Your Dodge Dakota EFI/MPI system has similar programming.
Moses
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We each have an appreciation for tools, and here's a humorous note on what tools can do. At the "swapmeetdave.com" site, Dave shares a humorous tool list by Peter Egan from his Road & Track column. You will appreciate Peter's insightful wit, humor and obvious awareness tools: http://www.swapmeetdave.com/Humor/Workshop/Definitions.htm. Enjoy!
Thanks to Swap Meet Dave and Peter Egan...
Moses
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Tim...Sounds like the kit includes parts for a RWD two-wheel drive Aisin AX15 version as well. This would include the tailhousing or rear driveline slip yoke bushing and slip yoke seal. The other seal could also be 2WD version related. If you accounted for each of the parts in the AX15 article (now a narrated motion video rental at Vimeo On Demand), you should be home free! Think of it, there were 2WD XJ Cherokee 4.0L models that use the 2WD/RWD version, also similar applications in GM Isuzu pickups and Toyota trucks.
Guess what...We'll be neighbors soon! The magazine base is Fernley, 30 miles from Fallon. If you're setting up at Fernley, watch for the '99 XJ Cherokee with the 6-inch long arm lift and Warn insignias at the rear quarter panels or the magazine's red Ram 3500 4x4 with signage. Or maybe you'll spot me scorching across remote desert or minding the speed limits (highly recommended) on the Fallon Highway (50-E) with the Honda XR650R. (Even the Honda XR350R can kick up respectable dust in the desert!)...We'll grab a cup of coffee and discuss AX15 transmissions till we're blue in the face!
Have a safe, productive move. Welcome to the neighborhood, you'll like the greater Reno/Lake Tahoe Area and soon discover the Black Rock Desert and High Rock Canyon!
Moses
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Thanks for the compliment on the forums, Paul. I've aimed at creating an atmosphere where members and guests can get useful, comprehensive technical information and also share their enthusiasm for four-wheel drive vehicles, SUVs, powersports machines and OHVs. Optimally, the forums' value to members and guests is cost-effective vehicle maintenance and repair solutions, selecting sensible accessories and upgrades, and an opportunity to enthusiastically share our motorized lifestyles, recreational interests and pursuits.
When UK members are past this Jeep KJ safety recall dilemma, I'm trusting you will each continue to contribute at the forums. It would be exciting to hear more about your specialty uses for the Jeep KJ and how it suits your lifestyle interests—like pulling horse trailers and recreational caravanning. As a community, we can discuss and share ways to enhance our four-wheel drive and SUV experiences!
As for Chrysler balking on the tow bar solution due to the broad numbers of vehicles involved in this safety issue, that should not be an obstacle. The corporation has already committed to the U.S. tow bar installation, and for the UK, there is very little cost difference between the tow bar and the cross brace that is currently presented. At the manufacturing level, if Chrysler is obligated to install one device or the other, the option or alternative of a tow hitch is of small consequence, especially considering the consumer satisfaction factor. Granted, this is a wide scale and costly solution overall, and we can be certain that any delay by Chrysler includes weighing ways to contain cost.
Moses
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Paul, following the logic and even the consumer or legal issues involved here (i.e., the Jeep KJ being capable of towing as consumers would expect and the vehicle maintaining its "normal" resale value), the simplest solution for Chrysler is to assure that the same measure used in the U.S. is acceptable to UK VOSA. At the U.S., the Mopar tow hitch furnished and installed under the N46 recall apparently complies with the U.S./NHTSA agreement. Acceptable distance between the tow bar and the fuel tank must be part of that Chrysler/U.S. NHTSA N46 agreement.
A similar agreement between Chrysler and UK VOSA would make that same tow hitch an acceptable solution for the current UK safety recall. Since Chrysler has designed and supplied the special non-towing cross brace for UK VOSA safety recall requirements, that device could be an option for owners who currently do not want a tow hitch installed on their Jeep KJ models.
Those with the Witter or other tested and approved UK aftermarket hitches could also be considered here. If you want to keep your Witter or other aftermarket hitches, and if they meet the safety standards and fit dimensionally like the Mopar tow hitch, then that could be an option. If the Witter or other aftermarket hitches do not fit or match the build of the Mopar tow hitch, those who currently tow could at least get their Witter or other UK aftermarket hitch replaced for free with the accepted Mopar tow hitch described under the Chrysler/U.S. NHTSA N46 solution.
Considering the facts shared by UK members at this forum topic, this is not a complicated situation. Am I missing something here? The only thing that needs to happen is for Chrysler and UK VOSA to agree that the U.S. NHTSA N46 solution is acceptable.
Moses
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Janet, if logic prevails, the properly rated Mopar tow hitch and the cross-brace should each be considered solutions for the safety concern. You found clear statements/documents that your KJ Cherokee is suitable for towing under UK standards. If Chrysler and VOSA simply work with the existing facts and the precedent set by the NHTSA/Chrysler agreement at the U.S., there could be a quick and sensible resolution.
Moses
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Welcome to the forums, Mario! These kinds of issues are usually electrical connection problems. For Jeep vehicles in the 1990s, there is a common trouble spot at the connector behind the instrument cluster. This often causes gauges and warning lights not to function properly on the Jeep XJ Cherokee and Jeep Wrangler. The Grand Cherokee uses as similar wiring and connector setup. Here is how the problem is solved with the XJ Cherokee: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-XJ-Cherokee-Erratic-Gauges-Fix.html.
Read the article and see if this could be your problem, a good place to start. Sometimes, just cleaning the plug contacts with electrical cleaner and re-installing the connector plug with dielectric grease is enough to cure the problem. Otherwise, as I did, you can replace the connector and splice in a new one. I would first try disconnecting, cleaning and reconnecting the plug at the instrument cluster. If the problem goes away but comes back much later, you can consider a new connector plug.
Regards!
Moses
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That does look like confirmation, Janet. If so, Chrysler and UK VOSA need to work out a safety solution similar to the U.S. NHTSA agreement. The U.S. solution is installation of a Mopar rated and functional tow hitch, which forum member "belvedere" and others have described. The tow hitch solution is the N46 recall agreement between Chrysler and U.S. NHTSA. The Mopar tow hitch solution for the UK should be rated to comply with the Jeep KJ tow capacity as recommended by Chrysler.
If non-towing KJ owners want to opt for the cross brace installation instead of the tow hitch (i.e., they don't want a tow hitch for some reason), that could be part of the UK agreement. Owners who do want a tow hitch could have the Mopar tow hitch installed to comply with the safety recall and use their vehicle for towing if desired. Upon resale of the vehicle, if the KJ has a cross-brace in place and the new owner wants the approved Mopar tow hitch, the tow hitch could be retrofitted (at the new owner's expense) and meet the safety requirement.
Moses
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Jmyers...Sounds like the OD and Tow/Haul switch mechanism or circuit is faulting. The temp light flash could be as simple as a poor connection issue or intermittent open/short, although I still suggest checking the actual transmission and cooling line heat with a simple thermal gun test. That way you can eliminate concerns about a real overheat. In particular, make sure the transmission cooler is dropping the temperature properly.
The check valve you describe is the cooler line anti-drain back protection for the torque converter, a subject that I've discussed at these forums and also cover in-depth at the magazine. Review this article and the Sonnax solution: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Survival-Upgrades-for-Jeep-and-Dodge-Ram-Automatic-Transmissions.html. You do have the drain back problem that I discuss. Startup with no immediate gear engagement means the fluid has drained back and left a very low fluid level within the torque converter. As you'll discover in the article, there are also more valve body issues that can develop, in particular the manual (shift) valve sticking in Park.
When you have that delay before gear engagement, the front pump bushing in the transmission is susceptible to running dry, causing premature front pump bushing failure. This is a Chrysler RWD transmission issue that dates back to the 904 and 727 three-speed automatics, predecessors to the later electronically controlled, four-speed automatics, including the most advanced, strongest and last of these transmissions, our 48RE.
Moses
Transmission Choices for an 800 Horsepower Jeep Inline Six Stroker Engine
in Jeep® XJ Cherokee, MJ Comanche Pickup and Grand Cherokee
Posted
Rocket Doctor...I hadn't considered Lenco. They have been building custom drag racing transmissions for a long time. Trick stuff, including CO2 powered shifters...
This may be what jeepstroker needs...Thanks much for sharing the link! Trust you had a fun Thanksgiving with the family.
Moses