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    Sources of Information on How to Weld

    in Welding and Metal Fabrication Forum

    Posted

    If you need an overview of welding processes and tips on how to weld, there is already a good block of welding information and instructional material at the magazine website (www.4WDmechanix.com).  I just dropped the word "welding" into the magazine's search box and the URLs below came up. 

     

    Many weldors like the gas welding insights, gas welding is a great foundation for TIG and very useful for light gauge and smaller metal parts where a diffuse heat is advantageous.  When time permits, I'd like to do an instructional/tutorial on each type of welding, and make the series available for Vimeo On Demand streaming library rentals.  These links below are all free:

     

    In this segment, 4WD volunteer John Cox assists a fellow four-wheeler while on the 2011 WFTW Rubicon Super Event. Equipped with a Ready Welder, auto battery operated flux-core spool welder, John quickly performs a repair that will help the CJ Jeep get back to camp.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-2011-WFTW-Trail-Welding-Repair.html
     
    These charts cover the gas settings and tip sizes for oxygen-acetylene welding, brazing, cutting and heating processes. Review these data recommendations before performing oxy-acetylene welding, cutting, brazing and heating chores.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Gas-Welding-Tip-Sizes-and-Cutting-Torch-Settings.html
     
    Session Two of the gas welding series covers gas welding equipment set up and safety. Setting up the cylinders, regulators, hoses and gas welding torch gets the process started.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Two.html
     
    'How-to: Gas Welding Session Four' discusses turning on gas safely and setting pressures for gas welding. Learn to safely open the cylinder valves, set correct pressures and turn the system off.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Four.html
     
    Moses Ludel shares oxygen-acetylene gas welding techniques used in Jeep restoration work. See this slideshow presentation from the 2011 Midwest Willys Reunion.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Gas-Welding-Metal-Restoration-Video.html
     
    For each welding process, there are practice exercises that help improve your skills. In this section of the 'How-to: Welding Class', you will find practice steps for the gas welding material covered.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Practice-Exercises.html
     
    'How-to: Gas Welding Session Five' discusses setting pressures, lighting the torch safely and beginning to gas welding. See how-to tack weld with oxygen-acetylene process.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Five.html
     
    'How-to: Gas Welding Session Six' discusses welding beads and filling metal with the gas welding process. In these two HD videos, see the how-to methods for controlling a liquid puddle and using the right filler metal material to run a bead.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Six.html
     
    At the 2011 Midwest Willys Reunion, Moses Ludel presented details on TIG welding iron castings. In this video you will discover how GTAW-TIG process restored a large iron axle casting.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-TIG-Repair-of-Large-Iron-Castings.html
     
    Gas welding is the foundation for all other welding methods. In this opening session, Moses Ludel discusses the equipment needs for oxygen-acetylene welding, brazing and cutting.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-One.html
     
    'How-to: Gas Welding Session Three' discusses the choice of gas welding tips, gas pressures and gauge metal thickness. Learn to save gas and select the right gas pressure and tip size for specific mild steel plate thicknesses.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Three.html
     
    This HD video session completes the gas welded cube project. The demonstration shows the versatility of oxy-acetylene gas welding and its similarity to other welding processes.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Completing-the-Gas-Welding-Exercise.html
     
    This session includes HD video examples of running a gas welding bead. The demonstration of oxy-acetylene welding processes includes beads formed with and without filler material.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Vertical-&-Overhead-Beads.html
     
    Sometimes a gear or transmission case is damaged and obsolete. In this slideshow, Moses Ludel demonstrates how to TIG repair a gear and broken transmission case.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Gear-and-Transmission-Case-Restoration.html
     
    This session includes HD video examples of running a gas welding bead. The demonstration of oxy-acetylene welding processes includes beads formed with and without filler material.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Bead-Formation.html
     
    Gas cutting is a traditional process for cutting carbon metals. Today, oxygen-acetylene cutting and plasma cutting are both popular. In this HD video segment, see how a gas cutting torch can quickly cut metal in a real world project.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Oxygen-Acetylene-Gas-Cutting.html
     
    This HD video session demonstrates the strength and integrity of the final welding project. The coupon cube gets tested on a 20-ton press to see how the welds react.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Weld-Integrity-Test.html
     
    HTP America offers affordable solutions for welding and plasma cutting. Cutting circles is always a challenge, and HTP America has simplified the process with a new, affordable accessory!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HTP-Circle-Cutting-Attachment-for-Plasma-Cutters.html
     
    When our rugged, six-year-old tire carrier sagged, the Pivot King square tube pivot axle became the solution. Pivot King provides the optimal foundation for building a carrier from scratch, restoring an older carrier or upgrading your rectangular tubing spare carrier. This makes a practical MIG welding project, too!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/MIG-Welding-Project-Installing-the-Pivot-King.html
     
    Four-wheeling, welding and shop environments require safety tools. High on the list is fire suppression equipment. Cold Fire is a new method of fire suppression. 4WD Mechanix Magazine reviews the new products and technology from Cold Fire.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-Review-Cold-Fire-Extinguishers.html
     
    The 2011 Wheelers for the Wounded Rubicon Super Event was an exceptional outing. Three years into the program, the volunteers and vets had a great time on the trail and at camp. In this HD video series, Moses Ludel covers the event weekend.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Videos-2011-Wheelers-for-the-Wounded-Rubicon-Super-Event.html
     
    HTP America's MicroCut 600 plasma cutter is a workhorse. At 40 amps of power, you can cut up to ½” steel. Small size and just 22 pounds means you can take this powerhouse anywhere. With inverter technology, the MicroCut 600 only needs 30 amps of 220 volt power!
    Welding is a vital part of 4WD and light truck repairs, upgrades and how-to projects. This HD video session discusses welding safety and protective gear. Make your welding a safe shop practice. Use the right protective gear to prevent burns, cuts and eye injuries.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Welding-Safety-and-Protective-Wear.html
     
    If you put "HTP" into the search box at www.4WDmechanix.com, you'll discover some quality combination TIG/Stick welders and how they set up.  They do make good machines...
     
    Let me know your interest level and thoughts around learning to weld by way of an HD video welding tutorial/instructional program.  Would the "tuition" or cost of streaming video rentals be acceptable, assuming the cost reflects a quality training program and return on your investment?  If these videos could be streamed and viewed on a big screen television would that be useful?  What about an internet interactive classroom offering live student feedback and real time discussion? 
     
    Welding is a hand-to-eye coordination industrial art.  Many learn better from the visual and even auditory training level than by reading a textbook, although the science of metallurgy is very important and often covered in text.  Each medium has its place.
     
    Moses

    Nut & Bolt Jeep CJ-7 Rebuild

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    David, there is already a good block of welding information and instructional at the magazine website.  I just dropped the word "welding" into the magazine's search box and these URLs came up.  I think you'd like the gas welding approach, it's a great foundation for TIG and very useful for light gauge and small parts where a diffuse heat is advantageous.  When time permits, I'd like to do an instructional/tutorial on each type of welding, and make the series available for Vimeo On Demand streaming library rentals.  These links below are all free:

     

    In this segment, 4WD volunteer John Cox assists a fellow four-wheeler while on the 2011 WFTW Rubicon Super Event. Equipped with a Ready Welder, auto battery operated flux-core spool welder, John quickly performs a repair that will help the CJ Jeep get back to camp.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-2011-WFTW-Trail-Welding-Repair.html
     
    These charts cover the gas settings and tip sizes for oxygen-acetylene welding, brazing, cutting and heating processes. Review these data recommendations before performing oxy-acetylene welding, cutting, brazing and heating chores.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Gas-Welding-Tip-Sizes-and-Cutting-Torch-Settings.html
     
    Session Two of the gas welding series covers gas welding equipment set up and safety. Setting up the cylinders, regulators, hoses and gas welding torch gets the process started.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Two.html
     
    'How-to: Gas Welding Session Four' discusses turning on gas safely and setting pressures for gas welding. Learn to safely open the cylinder valves, set correct pressures and turn the system off.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Four.html
     
    Moses Ludel shares oxygen-acetylene gas welding techniques used in Jeep restoration work. See this slideshow presentation from the 2011 Midwest Willys Reunion.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Gas-Welding-Metal-Restoration-Video.html
     
    For each welding process, there are practice exercises that help improve your skills. In this section of the 'How-to: Welding Class', you will find practice steps for the gas welding material covered.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Practice-Exercises.html
     
    'How-to: Gas Welding Session Five' discusses setting pressures, lighting the torch safely and beginning to gas welding. See how-to tack weld with oxygen-acetylene process.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Five.html
     
    'How-to: Gas Welding Session Six' discusses welding beads and filling metal with the gas welding process. In these two HD videos, see the how-to methods for controlling a liquid puddle and using the right filler metal material to run a bead.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Six.html
     
    At the 2011 Midwest Willys Reunion, Moses Ludel presented details on TIG welding iron castings. In this video you will discover how GTAW-TIG process restored a large iron axle casting.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-TIG-Repair-of-Large-Iron-Castings.html
     
    Gas welding is the foundation for all other welding methods. In this opening session, Moses Ludel discusses the equipment needs for oxygen-acetylene welding, brazing and cutting.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-One.html
     
    'How-to: Gas Welding Session Three' discusses the choice of gas welding tips, gas pressures and gauge metal thickness. Learn to save gas and select the right gas pressure and tip size for specific mild steel plate thicknesses.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Session-Three.html
     
    This HD video session completes the gas welded cube project. The demonstration shows the versatility of oxy-acetylene gas welding and its similarity to other welding processes.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Completing-the-Gas-Welding-Exercise.html
     
    This session includes HD video examples of running a gas welding bead. The demonstration of oxy-acetylene welding processes includes beads formed with and without filler material.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Vertical-&-Overhead-Beads.html
     
    Sometimes a gear or transmission case is damaged and obsolete. In this slideshow, Moses Ludel demonstrates how to TIG repair a gear and broken transmission case.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Gear-and-Transmission-Case-Restoration.html
     
    This session includes HD video examples of running a gas welding bead. The demonstration of oxy-acetylene welding processes includes beads formed with and without filler material.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Welding-Bead-Formation.html
     
    Gas cutting is a traditional process for cutting carbon metals. Today, oxygen-acetylene cutting and plasma cutting are both popular. In this HD video segment, see how a gas cutting torch can quickly cut metal in a real world project.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Oxygen-Acetylene-Gas-Cutting.html
     
    This HD video session demonstrates the strength and integrity of the final welding project. The coupon cube gets tested on a 20-ton press to see how the welds react.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Gas-Weld-Integrity-Test.html
     
    HTP America offers affordable solutions for welding and plasma cutting. Cutting circles is always a challenge, and HTP America has simplified the process with a new, affordable accessory!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HTP-Circle-Cutting-Attachment-for-Plasma-Cutters.html
     
    When our rugged, six-year-old tire carrier sagged, the Pivot King square tube pivot axle became the solution. Pivot King provides the optimal foundation for building a carrier from scratch, restoring an older carrier or upgrading your rectangular tubing spare carrier. This makes a practical MIG welding project, too!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/MIG-Welding-Project-Installing-the-Pivot-King.html
     
    Four-wheeling, welding and shop environments require safety tools. High on the list is fire suppression equipment. Cold Fire is a new method of fire suppression. 4WD Mechanix Magazine reviews the new products and technology from Cold Fire.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Video-Review-Cold-Fire-Extinguishers.html
     
    The 2011 Wheelers for the Wounded Rubicon Super Event was an exceptional outing. Three years into the program, the volunteers and vets had a great time on the trail and at camp. In this HD video series, Moses Ludel covers the event weekend.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Videos-2011-Wheelers-for-the-Wounded-Rubicon-Super-Event.html
     
    HTP America's MicroCut 600 plasma cutter is a workhorse. At 40 amps of power, you can cut up to ½” steel. Small size and just 22 pounds means you can take this powerhouse anywhere. With inverter technology, the MicroCut 600 only needs 30 amps of 220 volt power!
    Welding is a vital part of 4WD and light truck repairs, upgrades and how-to projects. This HD video session discusses welding safety and protective gear. Make your welding a safe shop practice. Use the right protective gear to prevent burns, cuts and eye injuries.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Welding-Safety-and-Protective-Wear.html
     
    Put "HTP" into the search box at www.4WDmechanix.com if your interests include combination TIG/Stick welders and how they set up.  They do make good machines...
     
    I've developed my underhood filming technique over time (fortunately) and can now set up the camcorder angles (like on the fusion subject itself and not the weldor's back).  I can use studio lighting for maximum instructional benefit.  Welding is a hand-to-eye coordination thing.  Often, watching a properly done welding video is way more effective than reading a textbook or listening to a lecture.  Each instructional technique has its place...
     
    Your Rustoleum paint job should work very nicely.  Modern spray paint formulas can produce great results, and Rustoleum is a good product.  As for the firewall and underbody, the issue with paint, at least for the underbody, is chipping.  The firewall is at far less risk.  I would use a tough material at the bottom of the tub.  Make sure the primer/sealer base is of high quality.  I'm not clear about these steel replacement bodies and how the seams get caulked and primer-sealed.  Don't overlook that measure, as caulking and sealing is critical.  Case eliminated that issue with the Rhino Liner, as the liner material, when applied correctly, will fill pores and seams well.
     
    I like a coating of semi-gloss or a flatter black commercial epoxy primer for exposed castings that do not have UV on them.  It is tough and, again, seals well.  This is where our HVLP spray gun comes in handy. 
     
    As a standard precaution, make sure you use a respirator or, ideally, a body suit and air supply when handling modern paint "chemistry".  The VOCs and quick flash materials are highly toxic and carcinogenic.  Protect your skin, eyes and ears as well.  When I advanced to Director of Vocational Training at the Rite of Passage programs and turned over the automotive classroom to a former body and paint professional and mechanic, he cautioned that these modern spray-delivered products are attracted to any moist area of the body, making eyes ears, mouth and nose especially vulnerable to absorption when exposed.  As you know, if you can smell paint, you're overexposed.
     
    Moses

    Nut & Bolt Jeep CJ-7 Rebuild

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    You both are doing terrific work...I'm closely following the LS V-8 swap with the AX15 and waiting for David's take on that engine powering a CJ-7.  There's such an abundance of power that any situation should be no challenge for the LS, especially with the axle gearing and Dana 300's low range.

     

    I'm paying close attention to the shop space thing.  What I've discovered from the use of a single car garage to a big shop is how adept one can be at choosing the right tooling and adjusting to floor space.  I've been thinking about doing a video series on choosing equipment and tools, both DIY and fully professional, that meet real world needs.  I can share how to do more with less.

     

    When we sold our last property, including 2400 sq. ft. of shop and office space plus 600 sq. ft. of utility storage space, the aim was to downsize.  I'm now fully functional with 480 sq. ft. of designated shop/studio footage and an additional 10' x 20' raised floor sheet metal storage "shed".  The only tooling I gave up in the move was my hoist...The compressor, big blasting cabinet and black pipe air system that stayed with the property have since been replaced with sufficient substitutes.  I actually upsized the compressor to accommodate a new blasting cabinet and other chores.

     

    David, your parts paint work is very well done, are you shooting with an HVLP gun?  The priming is also excellent.  My large bead blasting cabinet at our former shop was big enough for an axle housing.  I'm now using a smaller T-P Equipment unit that works fine for the volume of blasting that I'm doing...I spray primer and paint with an HVLP spray gun and have some techniques acquired when I did commercial mechanical restoration work on vintage vehicles.  If you're curious, I know some good ways to protect metal and even restore damaged castings and other types of metal parts—including cast iron and alloy metal repairs with TIG.

     

    Do you weld?  That's another instructional area I'd like to expand on.  I taught welding at the adult vocational level in addition to automotive/diesel technology.  Welding and metallurgy are real "industrial arts".  I began offering how-to at the magazine and ran into time constraints, would like to pick that up again.

     

    Moses   

    Progress on the "Unintentional" Frame-Off Jeep CJ-7 Rebuild

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    The spray-in Rhino Lining was definitely the way to go...This is a deja vu for me, I recall my 1989 trip to a north San Diego County early Rhino franchise.  The entire crew came out to see what this lining job entailed.  It was a first, literally.  Louis Russo at the El Cajon area did a terrific prep and seal job prior to the spray-in liner, and I'd venture to say that Jeep CJ-5, an early '80s model like yours, is likely still rust free.  It was an OFF-ROAD Magazine project and has embellished my Jeep Owner's Bible since the first edition, released in 1992.  To date, I've kept that CJ-5 in the book through two update editions...

     

    Nice work, you'll have a phenomenal Jeep when this is all done...

     

    Moses

    Which Camshaft for a 2000 Jeep XJ Cherokee Stroker 4.6L Engine Build?

    in Jeep® XJ Cherokee, MJ Comanche Pickup and Grand Cherokee

    Posted

    Welcome to the forums, lions2014!  I cover the stroker motor build (4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L from an inline 4.0L) at length in the magazine.  The 6-video series with Tony Hewes (Hewes Performance Machine) has been especially popular and helpful.  Tony and I did discuss the use of the CompCams 252 grind hydraulic flat tappet camshaft at length.  That camshaft has an optimal profile for a quick torque rise and smooth overall engine performance, and is user friendly in all 4.2L, 4.0L and 4.6L stroker engine builds through the distributor ignition era. 

     

    Historically, I have always recommended this camshaft for the 232, 258/4.2L and 4.0L AMC/Jeep design inline sixes built through 1999.  Tony and I highly recommended this camshaft for 4.6L stroker builds intended for daily driver and off-pavement rock crawling use as well.  If you're JeepSpeed racing or bumping up compression, of course, a "bigger" camshaft would be advised. 

     

    There has been an issue with this 252 camshaft (your current 1991 4.0L use) in 2000-up coil-on-plug engines.  Tony Hewes has a longstanding professional relationship with CompCams, and based on his findings, he approached CompCams.  They custom ground him a prototype camshaft with this milder profile intended to offset this issue, and Tony had a customer with a distributorless engine for trying the new grind.  Unclear of when the engine with this prototype camshaft would be tested in the real world, I have not followed up yet.

     

    I will contact Tony Hewes regarding the redesigned camshaft and see whether gains were made.  If so, I'll research whether this camshaft went into production and if it has the same part number as the traditional 252 CompCams grind.  As I recall, the prototype change had to do with lobe center or valve timing.  The late 4.0L coil-on-plug engine has a problem with valve event opening/closing times when running the original 252 grind. 

     

    Meanwhile, you can review the six Hewes interview HD videos and additional videos and articles on the subject.  Among the articles you will find in-depth discussion of proper injectors for a 4.6L and other tuning measures...Here are several links relevant to your engine build and tuning:

     

    In this HD video vlog Q&A, Moses Ludel discusses the Jeep 4.0L inline six build-up into a stroker 4.6L engine. The build consists of the right design, correct choice of parts and the required machining. Moses Ludel describes the engine parts and machining options and the range of costs.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Q&A-Vlog-How-to-Build-a-Multipurpose-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Motor.html
     
    The 4.0L engine was a mainstay in 1987-2001 XJ Cherokee models. Abundant in numbers and very reliable, this inline six is a candidate for the 4.2L stroker crankshaft upgrade. Want more torque and horsepower for the highway, backcountry and towing? Consider this rebuild upgrade!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Stroker-Six-Upgrade-for-XJ-Cherokee.html
     
    Whether you plan a stroker motor build-up or simply want the best cylinder head work for your 4.0L Jeep inline six-cylinder engine, Tony Hewes describes the right approach. Hewes Performance Machine rebuilds and upgrades cylinder heads to meet any requirement. Here we discuss the standards for a street and trail-driven Jeep Cherokee, Wrangler or Grand Cherokee 4.0L six or 4.6L stroker build-up.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Jeep-Inline-Six-Cylinder-Head-Work.html
     
    A freshly built Hewes Performance 4.6L stroker inline six is now powering this Jeep CJ-8 Scrambler. The Jeep is a rugged trail runner based at Reno and the Sierra Nevada region. See how the engine build-up described in the video series fits this Jeep 4x4 perfectly!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Videos-Jeep-CJ-8-4.6L-Stroker-Power.html
     
    When building a 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker motor, there are piston and rod choices. This HD video interview with Tony Hewes discusses cast versus forged piston options, use of 4.0L versus 4.2L connecting rods and proper bearing choices for optimal performance. The objective is a quality, long-life engine for "stump pulling" off-pavement use and street legal operation. Fuel efficiency is part of that equation!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Jeep-4.6L-Inline-Six-Pistons,-Rods-and-Bearings.html
     
    When building the popular Jeep 4.0L inline six into a 4.6L stroker motor, there are piston, connecting rod and engine block machining options. In this HD video interview with Tony Hewes, Moses Ludel and Tony discuss various ways to create the 4.6L engine, using a 4.2L/258 crankshaft.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Jeep-4.6L-Inline-Six-Stroker-Short-Block-Options.html
     
    Moses Ludel shares good reasons for building the popular 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker motor. He describes the best engine build for street, highway and 4x4 trail use.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Why-Build-a-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html
     
    Installing a 4.2L (258) Jeep crankshaft in a 4.0L block has become popular. In this exclusive HD video interview series with performance engine builder Tony Hewes, Moses Ludel and Tony discuss the needs of a multipurpose Jeep 4x4. The focus is proper ways to build up a 4.5L to 4.7L inline six from the 4.0L AMC and Jeep engine.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Videos-Building-a-4.6L-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html
     
    Building a 4.0L Jeep inline six into a 4.6L stroker motor includes more than the long-block. Matching up the EFI/MPI or fuel-and-spark system is essential. Here is the rest of the stroker motor story, the performance tuning required for the engine to run right!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Fuel-and-Spark-Modifications-for-the-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html
     
    Moses Ludel discusses the popular 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker motor. A road performance test follows the six-video interview series with Winston Cup engine master Tony Hewes.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Vlog-Road-Testing-Jeep-4.6L-Stroker-Inline-Six.html
     
    Quality engine parts contribute to performance and longevity. In this HD video interview with Tony Hewes, Moses Ludel and Tony Hewes discuss the peripheral parts that provide better service over time. This video completes the 4.6L Jeep inline six stroker motor details as Hewes Performance Machine builds the ultimate trail running, street legal stroker motor!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Quality-Parts-for-the-4.6L-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html
     
    In this HD video, Moses Ludel and Tony Hewes share views on the right camshaft choice for a Jeep inline six-cylinder engine. Whether you build a stock 4.0L or 4.2L, or step up for a 4.6L stroker motor upgrade, the camshaft choice is critical. Get professional information here!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Jeep-Inline-Six-Camshaft-Choices.html
     
    The Jeep inline six stroker motor with EFI or MPI develops maximum performance when tuned properly. Selecting the correct MPI injectors and matching the fuel supply system to the bigger engine and higher horsepower output require the modifications described here.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Tuning-the-Fuel-Injected-Jeep-Inline-Six-Stroker-Motor.html
     
    For 1987-up 4.0L and all 1991-up Jeep 2.5L engines, multi-point fuel injection is the standard. MPI brought major performance gains and new troubleshooting methods. In this article, Moses Ludel describes MPI operation and how to troubleshoot these systems.
    www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-Multi-Point-Injection-Operation-and-Troubleshooting.html
     
    Moses Ludel shares details about the Jeep inline six stroker upgrade for the 1991-up YJ and TJ Wrangler. When the original 4.0L inline six is needs rebuilding, consider the 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.7L Jeep inline six stroker rebuild option. Complete history and evaluation available here!
    www.4wdmechanix.com/YJ-&-TJ-Jeep-Stroker-Six-Upgrade.html
     
    Moses

    Need Jeep CJ-7 Steering Column Brackets

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    spdljohn...Here is the parts schematic and OEM Mopar part numbers for the column and support brackets.  See if this is what you need, I can furnish other views.  This may provide OE numbers that cross over to available aftermarket parts.  Run the Mopar numbers as a Google search, and see what comes up:

     

    1981-86 Jeep CJ Steering Column Supports.pdf

     

    Find a Mopar parts source, and use the Mopar numbers to see if there is a later model application for these parts...Online Mopar sources often show all applications for a given part number.

     

    Let me know if this helped...

     

    Moses

    Jeep KJ Liberty N46 Recall Trailer Hitch Fix

    in Jeep® Liberty, Commander, Patriot and Compass

    Posted

    These forums are more than message boards, they are "communities".  I have followed this thread intently.  Towing with your KJ Cherokee models is obviously important.  As UK owners of KJ Cherokee models, you have expressed your dismay over the prospect of losing the ability to tow with your gasoline and diesel powered KJ Cherokee models.  From your research and expressed concerns, the facts and remaining questions are clear: 

     

    1) Facts:  In the U.S. NHTSA agreement, what UK VOSA calls a "protective bar" remedy is an existing Mopar tow bar hitch.  At the UK, the "protective bar" is a replacement brace without a towing provision.  The UK VOSA interpretation of the N46 safety recall for the KJ Cherokee has presented design and bar-to-tank clearance requirements that make it impossible to use an existing Mopar or other currently available tow bar hitch at the UK. 

     

    2) Facts:  KJ Cherokee owners are asked to either remove their existing tow bar hitches or forfeit access to required vehicle insurance.  Consumers/owners of the KJ Cherokee who tow are left with the responsibility and expense of approaching tow bar manufacturers for a redesigned tow bar hitch.  If and when such a hitch can be produced, the cost of the hitch and installation are at the KJ Cherokee owner's expense.  In the meantime, owners must accept the "cross brace" installation and forego towing with their KJ Cherokee.

     

    3) Questions:  How does UK VOSA determine these clearance dimensions?  KJ Cherokee owners share that existing tow bars fail the clearance test by only 1/4-inch.  Why does UK VOSA not accept the N46 safety recall agreement, the installation of a Mopar tow bar hitch, established between Fiat/Jeep and the U.S. NHTSA?

     

    4) Facts:  Rather than redesign the Mopar tow bar to meet the UK VOSA dimensions, Fiat/Jeep has assumed the expense of creating a special cross brace to meet the UK VOSA requirement.  This cross brace has no towing provision.  Consumers with existing tow bars, including the current design Mopar tow bars, can no longer tow with their KJ Cherokee at the UK. 

     

    5) Facts:  At the U.S., the safety recall does not specify whether the vehicles of concern are gasoline or diesel powered.  The N46 recall entitles all owners of the Jeep KJ Liberty (i.e., UK "Cherokee" design vehicles) to receive a free and installed Mopar tow bar hitch as the N46 safety recall remedy.

     

    6) Facts:  At this point, neither Fiat/Jeep nor UK VOSA is seeking a solution on behalf of KJ Cherokee owners who tow or have existing tow bar hitches that met UK VOSA and U.S. NHTSA safety requirements prior to the N46 safety recall.

     

    7) Facts:  UK Jeep KJ Cherokee owners should be able to use their vehicles to tow trailers, caravans and horse boxes within the approved weight limits recognized at the UK.  Janet Brown's research includes UK vehicle documents that designate the trailer weight a Jeep KJ Cherokee can legally tow.  Towing is an implied function of these vehicles.

     

    Possible solutions on behalf of UK owners of Jeep KJ Cherokee models:

     

    1) UK VOSA reviews the U.S. NHTSA acceptance of the existing Mopar tow bar hitch remedy and accepts installation of this hitch as an N46 recall safety solution at the UK.  The Mopar cross brace without tow provision could be an option for owners who do not want a tow bar hitch installed.

     

    2) Mopar or another tow bar/hitch manufacturer builds a tow hitch that meets the UK VOSA clearance and dimension requirements.  The hitch must have smooth edges.  This tow bar hitch would be recognized as a suitable remedy under the UK VOSA N46 safety recall.

     

    The conversation between Fiat/Jeep and UK VOSA is not complete yet.  In the interest of UK forum members, I would like to see a sensible solution for owners of Jeep KJ Cherokee vehicles who have towed with their vehicles and intend to continue towing.

     

    Moses

    Choosing the Right Used Dodge Ram Cummins 4x4 Pickup

    in Dodge 4x4 and Ram 4WD Trucks

    Posted

    Seb...First, I would like to say that my comments are general and not intended to single out or target the current owners of either truck.  We each modify our trucks and trail vehicles to suit special needs, and each of these sellers has invested plenty in aftermarket "upgrades".  I'm sure they feel entitled to recouping some of that investment.  Many aftermarket upgrades, however, do not return much when you sell the vehicle.  That might be a topic for members to discuss...

     

    The first truck with "vacation" trailering could use some clarification.  How many kilometers were towing kilometers?  What did the recreational trailer weigh?  There are triple axle 5th wheel RV trailers that weigh 18,000 or more pounds when loaded and going down the road.  There are also much lighter 5th wheels.  You would need to clarify the load.

     

    Here is the other truck you're looking at, followed by some comments:

     

    2006 Cummins
    Yukon 4.88 Gears
    New BF Goodrich 35's
    New brakes
    New rotors
    Trussed Chevy 14 bolt solid front axle
    4:1 Transfer case
    Exhaust brake
    Webasto Engine heater
    4" Straight pipe with 5" MBRP tip
    New dual disk clutch
    New tranny
    New windshield
    1 ton suspension
    Air Bags
    Rev tek leveling kit
    Etc etc truck can pull mountains or lift it and put huge tires...
    Clean Clean truck

     

    Attractive truck, couldn't see a mileage/kilometers statement.  Did I miss that?  As we agreed, a lot of "new" stuff means either a lot of use, heavy loads or higher mileage/kilometers.  New transmission and clutch?  Wow, the transmission raises questions, he obviously did haul "heavier trailers".

     

    As for the 4.88 gears, you mentioned fuel efficiency, and this is definitely not the best gearing for fuel efficiency when cruising empty—even with the 6-speed manual transmission.  I have a 4.56 gear set with 35" BFG tires (actually around 34.6" if the All-Terrain KO).  My engine rpm running empty does not encourage optimal fuel efficiency unless I stick to a strict 65-69 mph range at cruise.  The closer to 65 the better, around 1980 engine rpm. 

     

    The 6th gear on the manual NV5600 is 37% overdrive (0.63:1); my truck's 48RE 4-speed automatic's overdrive ratio is 31% (0.69:1).  As a result the 6% extra overdrive would make 4.88 gears very close in engine speed to my truck with 4.56:1 gearing.  With 37% overdrive in 6th, the 4.88 gears would spin the engine around 2000 rpm at 65 mph.  At 69 mph, the engine would be spinning around 2125 rpm.  This is nearly identical to my engine at these road speeds and would be governed by exact tire diameter.

     

    The good news is that this 4.88 gearing did offset the hefty loads pulled by this truck, somewhat reducing the strain on the engine and transmission.  (Strain on drivelines, axles and brakes would still be high.)  This gearing would work with 37" diameter tires, though a taller chassis lift would be necessary.  If my current lift is sufficient, I'd like to try true 35" or 36" diameter tires on my truck with the 4.56:1 gearing...I'm told by AAM that there are now 4.30:1 gears available, unavailable when I chose between 4.10 and 4.56 for the 35" tires.  4.30:1 would be my choice today.

     

    Cummins fuel efficiency has been covered in detail at these forums.  Join the 30,527 viewers, as of today, who have made this one of the hottest forum topics to date: 

     

    http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/89-driving-your-dodge-ram-cummins-for-fuel-efficiency/

     

    When running empty, the 4.88 gearing at cruise speeds would spin the Cummins engine too fast for optimal fuel efficiency.  On the other hand, and I considered this with my gearing choice, this gearing would be quite good for towing a trailer mostly at 65 mph (maximum of 70 mph)...

     

    Sorry to make you constantly convert to kilometers, Seb...force of habit!

     

    Moses

    Jeep KJ Liberty N46 Recall Trailer Hitch Fix

    in Jeep® Liberty, Commander, Patriot and Compass

    Posted

    From what you share, Janet, the Fiat/Jeep comments indicate that this is strictly a tow bar design issue.  There is no obstacle to towing if a hitch with the required dimensions and smooth edges can be built or currently fits:

     

    "...If a tow bar is already fitted to the vehicle, it needs to be inspected to verify if it conforms to the certified clearance levels and/or the absence of sharp edges. If it does, the tow bar can remain fitted. If however, the tow bar does not meet the required specifications of this recall campaign, it should be removed and replaced by the certified cross car beam."

     

    UK VOSA will apparently not compromise on this 1/4" or whatever insufficient clearance dimension.  So if we follow both UK VOSA and Fiat/Jeep logic, the existing tow bar hitch no longer meets safety requirements in the UK.  The existing Mopar replacement tow bar hitch does, however, meet U.S. N46 safety requirements.

     

    Unless Fiat/Jeep redesigns and builds a Mopar hitch to the new specifications required at the UK, the only solution is another UK or U.S. tow bar hitch manufacturer.  Any manufacturer will be looking for enough sales volume/incentive to build a tow bar hitch.  The design must comply with the "certified clearance", "absence of sharp edges" and meet the customary tow capacity/safety requirements for similar tow bar hitches sold at the UK.

     

    Tow bar hitch engineering is straightforward.  The manufacturing process for tow hitches is basic metal fabrication.  Safety testing and certification requirements do incur costs.  This comes down to whether it is cost-effective to design and build this tow hitch and how many UK-based KJ Cherokees already had tow bar hitches at the time of the N46 recall.  Future tow bar hitch sales would also be considered.

     

    Moses

    Is the Honda XR650R Auto-Decompressor Worth Keeping?

    in Dirt & Dual-Sport Motorcycles

    Posted

    Textbook photo, David!  The tall screw threads are a clear clue that the auto-decompressor was still "on" when the right side exhaust valve was set.  Thread height should be somewhat similar when the decompressor is fully released before the valve adjustment...Your comments on the auto-decompressor are very valuable to others.

    Do you use the manual decompressor lever, too?  Or do you simply kick the engine through repeatedly without having to fiddle with TDC?  How often does it balk as you describe?  Is this ankle jarring?

    Moses

    Is the Honda XR650R Auto-Decompressor Worth Keeping?

    in Dirt & Dual-Sport Motorcycles

    Posted

    Many of today's dirt motorcycles have electric starting, and this is a very good idea for the contemporary ultra-high compression four-stroke singles! For these operators, unless the starter fails to work, manual kicking has become a thing of the past...

    Despite this trend, there are still many kick-start Honda four-stroke motorcycle engines that have an "auto-decompressor" start mechanism. This device, typically mounted at one end of the overhead camshaft, unseats an exhaust valves during crankshaft rotation.  The aim is to relieve compression as the piston approaches TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke, only during kick start phase. Once the engine starts, the mechanism disengages the ramp/cam that opens the exhaust valve during kick starting. 

    On my Honda XR650R engine, the OEM camshaft was still in place when I purchased the bike. The engine did not run, and repeated attempts to kick it over proved futile. Eventually, I ran a leak down test and discovered a considerable loss of compression caused by leaking intake valves. Despite this low compression, the kick starter repeatedly balked as if the auto-decompressor was stuck off.

    post-1-0-86539400-1417652131_thumb.jpg post-1-0-05468900-1417652166_thumb.jpg

    post-1-0-13651100-1417652149_thumb.jpg post-1-0-00636300-1417652181_thumb.jpg

    Even with leaking intake and exhaust valves, the engine would not kick over easily. The auto-decompressor was stuck in the off-position and acting as if not even there! Large piston displacement gave a false sense of "compression".

    The bike had set for some time, and perhaps this accounted for the condition of the auto-decompressor.  It felt like the mechanism was sticking in the released position, providing no decompression.  Even with the low compression from leaking valves, I found myself using the hand lever decompressor to "free" up the compression resistance and what felt like a jammed kick starter.

    Note: Wondering why an engine with leaking intake valves would still be hard to kick over?  This is not hard to explain with the volume of air that this huge piston can displace, an overwhelmingly large amount compared to the amount leaking off from valve face-to-seat seepage. Given the kick start resistance, I never suspected worn, leaking valves.  In fact, all four valves had a fair degree of seepage.

    By the time I committed to the leak down test that led to the upper engine rebuild, I had researched the XR650R engine.  I'd also had enough experience (i.e., cardio workout) with the auto-decompressor to seek an aftermarket replacement camshaft without the auto-decompressor.  I was not opposed to using a manual decompressor lever and knew from my first experience with a BSA 441 Victor how to find that special point, just past TDC on the compression stroke, where the engine kicks through without kicking back.  Part of my rebuild was the choice to install a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft.  This is a milder performance approach that provides more bottom end and midrange power—and a camshaft that eliminates auto-decompression.

    I'm good with my decision to eliminate auto-decompression and am curious how others have made peace with the factory start mechanism.  Am I the only one whose auto-decompressor has stuck or jammed?  I could have rebuilt and polished the OEM auto-decompressor, as the mechanism can be rebuilt.  I opted out.  Is everyone else happy with the stock camshaft and auto-decompressor?

    Please share your experiences here...An auto-decompressor is not unique to the Honda XR650R, they come in many forms and configurations, like the kick-start mechanism on my '84 XR350R, still a valve unseating approach, that has worked flawlessly and easily for three decades.  From the XR600R forward, the auto-decompressor attaches to the camshaft and has a one-way clutch mechanism.  How does that work for others?

    Moses

    Adventure Motorcycle Riding in the UAE

    in Places You Have Been...

    Posted

    Sounds like you're well up the learning curve, David!...The balance for a dirt bike on sand is to keep the momentum up and the front end lighter.  Slowing to the point of stall results in "burying" the bike, which is not good.  Keeping the cycle maneuverable and atop the sand is essential, the front wheel must remain light and not plow into the sand.  Like you share, the correct throttle setting and gear choice are important.

     

    I'm curious if you were itching for a lighter machine or whether the BMW F800 GS felt nimble enough with its mass.  Was the weight a liability?  Or did it ultimately not make much difference if you kept the bike riding high on the sand?  Did taking off in sand present a problem with a bike of this weight?

     

    What kind of protective gear did you wear for sand of this magnitude?  What riding apparel makes the best sense?

     

    Your comments on back and core muscle strength are apt.  Did you catch the new group/section that I opened on fitness?  This is aimed at all of us who go off-roading, whether strapped into a 4x4 seat or winging it on a dirt motorcycle.  I started the section to encourage forum members to coax and inspire each other around getting into shape.  While motorcycling on the level you did at the UAE is a bona fide five-muscle group workout, it pays to be in condition before subjecting ourselves to this pounding.  The new section aims at helping us prevent injuries and performing at our best. 

     

    Take a peek and jump into the discussion at:  http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/forum/73-health-and-fitness-for-four-wheelers-and-powersports-enthusiasts/.

     

    Moses

    Choosing the Right Used Dodge Ram Cummins 4x4 Pickup

    in Dodge 4x4 and Ram 4WD Trucks

    Posted

    Glad to comment, Seb.  As for "on the fly" shifting, the manual transfer case is also "shift on the fly" between 2WD Hi and 4WD Hi.  Transfer cases have been on the fly shifting in high range for many decades.  I like to back off on the throttle and finding the unloaded point when pulling the manual lever from 2WD to 4WD and when going back to 2WD.  This takes the load off the gear mechanism, and my transfer cases last a very long time. 

     

    Shifting to low range with either manual or electronic shift control requires a complete or nearly complete stop to prevent gear clash and damage.  Some like the electronic push-button shifting as it eliminates some of the guesswork.  Again, electronic shift also has components that can fail, and the only troubleshooting inquiries on the electronic shift transfer case (273 type) that we've had at the forums were from Canada.  Could be the extreme cold weather.  I've had no trouble with my 2005 Ram 273 transfer case.

     

    As for diagnostics and checking out the truck, the suggestion may have been a dynamometer test.  An oscilloscope is a diagnostic tool typically used for gasoline engines with a spark ignition system.  With an oscilloscope, you could likely check out the injectors electronically, and with some creativity, maybe even do a cylinder "dynamic" compression check by shorting out individual injectors and noting the drop in engine rpm.  (Dynamic compression testing is a function of traditional gasoline engine oscilloscope analyzers.)

     

    The most realistic check for the Cummins 5.9L diesel engine, in my view, would be an engine drain oil analysis.  (Caterpillar and other industrial diesel shops offer oil analysis service.)  The lab results on the oil are very revealing, they show wear and engine damage quickly.  This is a cost-effective diagnostic approach without tearing down the engine.

     

    Note: The oil analysis, which many diesel fleet operators do on a regular oil change basis, is considered valuable.  The lab/chemical analysis can find everything from bearing, piston and metal wear to gasket seepage, anti-freeze leaks or a cracked casting, all done by close analysis of the particles and chemicals in the drain oil.  Even low compression or poor cylinder seal leaves its traces in the drain oil, measured as particulates from the fuel blow-by. 

     

    If you suspect a lack of smoothness or possible loss of compression or cylinder imbalance, a compression test would be sensible.  However, this test on all six cylinders can be somewhat expensive at a commercial shop.

     

    Regarding frames, the 2500 and 3500 frame dimensions are the same.  The differences are in the brakes (sometimes), springs (definitely) and sometimes the driveline components.  You get factory clearance lamps above the cab on the 3500.  Here is a PDF on the frame dimensions for the model year 2005 Dodge Ram trucks as an example:

     

    2005 Dodge Ram Frame Specs.pdf

     

    As for axle gearing and details on powertrain/geartrain and axle ratio combinations, these are details for model year 2006 as an example:

     

    2006 Dodge Ram Mega Cab Specs.pdf

     

    I trust this is helpful, Seb...

     

    Moses

    Progress on the "Unintentional" Frame-Off Jeep CJ-7 Rebuild

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    Terrific color and planning, 60Bubba...Really like your long range perspective around this project.  The Jeep will definitely be a keeper and should survive the Tennessee climate well.  Smart choices and great workmanship here! 

     

    Glad you did the Rhino Liner, this provides assured adhesion on a well-prepped tub and prevents surprises like rust exfoliation beneath a coating of driveway "spray can" liner.

     

    The Quadratec comment is priceless...

     

    Moses

    Jeep KJ Liberty N46 Recall Trailer Hitch Fix

    in Jeep® Liberty, Commander, Patriot and Compass

    Posted

    You're very welcome, Patrick, and welcome to the forums!  Janet's resolve is clear.  I'm following this thread closely and trusting that a practical solution will develop.  From your posts and comments, it is obvious that many KJ Cherokee owners at the UK purchased their vehicles to tow caravans, horse boxes and trailers.

     

    On a brighter note, I'm very curious about the 2.5L CRD (common rail diesel) engine and its performance level when towing.  I'm a turbo diesel supporter and promote the benefits of modern turbo-diesel technology, especially for tow vehicles.  While this important N46 thread continues to unfold, would anyone care to start a topic on the performance level and overall impressions of the Jeep 2.5L CRD engine in the KJ Cherokee?  The KJ diesel sales numbers at the U.S. were not large, and I've wondered why this option was so often passed over.  Perhaps U.S. owners of the KJ Liberty gasoline and CRD models could comment.   

     

    Your impressions of the 2.5L CRD engine's performance, fuel efficiency and ability to pull a load (for perspective, please clarify the loaded trailer weight) would be of great interest.  I considered swapping the later 2.8L KJ Liberty CRD diesel engine into the magazine's 1999 XJ Cherokee in place of the 4.0L inline six-cylinder gasoline engine.  The 4.0L Jeep gasoline engine produces similar power to the 3.7L KJ Liberty/Cherokee gasoline engine.  How does the 3.7L V-6 performance compare with the 2.5L CRD engine in the KJ Cherokee?  Did towing plans motivate your choice of the CRD?  Fuel efficiency?  Overall performance?

     

    Moses

    Choosing the Right Used Dodge Ram Cummins 4x4 Pickup

    in Dodge 4x4 and Ram 4WD Trucks

    Posted

    First of all, a hearty welcome to the forums, Seb!  Glad you're considering a Ram/Cummins 4x4, they deliver a lot of substance in their segment, and I'm very partial to Cummins ISB engines when driven properly...

     

    I looked at the first advertisement and can make a few observations.  The truck does not have exceptionally high mileage for a Cummins Ram truck, and I really like that its a 3500 series 4x4 for your purposes.  I'd like to go over this pre-owned truck's add-ons with some objectivity.  Here is the listed equipment:

     

    1) 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4 Mega Cab—This chassis is desirable if you need an 8' bed and Mega Cab.  Our '05 3500 is a Quad Cab with a 6.3' bed.  This means our wheelbase is only 140.5", where the truck depicted here has a significantly longer wheelbase.  Even with the SRW (single rear wheel) arrangement, you have a lot of turning radius here.  Towing would be very stable with this longer wheelbase, but so is a 140.5" wheelbase that can turn more sharply and does not require three tries to enter the local bank's drive through lanes.  Our short box truck with its auxiliary fuel tank in the bed would not be optimal for a camper or fifth wheel, although it's a great truck for a pull-type conventional trailer.  Depending on your plans, I would drive various wheelbase trucks before plunging.  You may prefer an 8-foot box with a slightly shorter Quad Cab.  Some prefer a dually for a very heavy cabover camper or 5th wheel—I would.

     

    2) 5.9 Cummins diesel—Unbeatable, pre-urea era, '06 should not have a catalytic converter.  In the used market, you're better off with the 5.9L than an early 6.7L ISB Cummins.  Since this truck has the NV5600 (presumably) transmission, this is really a rugged powertrain by design.

     

    3) Manual Transmission—6-speed manual, unbeatable*.  You do have the clutch concerns, but intrinsically, this is a good transmission unit, very rugged.  One concern would be the towing this truck has apparently seen, which is a load on the engine, transmission and axles.  I'll get into that subject.

     

    *Frankly, had I known wife Donna would balk at driving our truck after the chassis lift, the oversized tires and a list of beefy accessories, I would have opted for the manual transmission when we purchased our truck.

     

    4) 226,000 Kilometers—Around 135K miles in U.S. parlance, this is about right for most '06 trucks, neither too much nor exceptionally light mileage/kilometers.  The concern is what this truck did for that mileage.

     

    5) SLT, Red, Power Windows, Power Doors, Power Heated Mirrors, Power Driver Seat, CD Player—Nicely equipped, appears to be a well maintained interior and exterior from these basic photos, a presentable truck.  Would guess that the truck was ordered by an individual or couple that wanted reasonable comfort and a nice trim package.  I like the cloth insert upholstery, our SLT package has held up very well.

     

    6) 4x4 On The Fly—Nothing new here, if push-button, you have the same transfer case as our '05.  We do not use 4WD modes as much as you will at Canada and have had no trouble with this unit whatsoever.  Electronic shifting can be an expense in maintenance if there is a problem, however.  Most take this option for convenience; a transfer case manual shift lever would be just fine for me.

     

    7) Lockable Canopy, Spray In Bed Liner, Hijacker Gooseneck Hitch, 5th Wheel Slider Hitch—This is where my eyebrows rise!  A clean truck, well equipped, this model was a hauler, and a heavy trailer at that.  Some would regard this as bonus equipment, I see it as extreme loads, possibly for much of the 226K kilometers of service.  The load on the entire powertrain and axles is clarified here.  Given the capacity of these two hitches, it's possible that every power delivery system on this truck could have been taxed heavily.  Personally, I don't see this as a plus but rather a telling story about the usage of the truck:  to haul a very heavy gooseneck trailer.  I'd want to know if these folks pulled a nine-horse trailer or a triple axle 5th wheel travel trailer.  If so, how far and how many times?

     

    8) Upgraded AFE Turbo, Upgraded AFE Cold Air Intake, Upgraded AFE Intake Riser, Upgraded Turbo Back Exhaust, Bully Dog Programmer With Sensor Docking Station And Pyrometer—Surely this is a laundry list of high caliber upgrades that would cost a bundle to install yourself!  At the price of the vehicle, this would seem a bargain.  But it begs the question:  Why did the previous owner need all of this performance enhancement equipment?  Horsepower equals BTUs, and the only thing that gives me any comfort here is the pyrometer.  If used correctly, the pyrometer can reduce engine loads created by this added horsepower.  Any time you boost horsepower in a diesel, the cost is additional fuel consumption and heat impact on the engine, turbocharger and other underhood components. 

     

    9) Upgraded front end ball joints, upgraded South Bend clutch and flywheel (about 25000KM)—Each are great add-ons that target weak links on these trucks when they are subject to continuous loading.  This again begs the question:  What was the truck's usage that it needed these components by 226K kilometers?  I like the individual upgrades but again wonder what usage this truck saw.

     

    10) Will sell without Hijacker Gooseneck Hitch and/or 5th Wheel Slider Hitch—Possible indication that the previous owner wants to continue towing heavy trailers?  If so, do they consider this truck past its service/duty life for their needs?  Is it the previous owner who wants these hitch components?

     

    Many would regard this truck and equipment as optimal for a serious hauler, and it obviously was.  The question now is how much life is left in the Cummins engine, the NV5600 or the 11.5" rear axle/9.25" front axle.  I've been inside each of these assemblies, and though high in stamina, they are not exempt from fatigue.  They wear out just like any other machinery, especially when continuously subjected to high loads. 

     

    If I were to consider this truck, the cost of rebuilding the engine, transmission or axles would weigh heavily on both my decision and the purchase price.  I'd want considerable "padding" on the price, given the possible towing history of this vehicle.  More history of the vehicle's use, directly from the previous owner, would be valuable here.

     

    Moses

    Avoid Honda XR650R Motorcycle Engine Damage—Use the Correct Main and Pilot Jets!

    in Dirt & Dual-Sport Motorcycles

    Posted

    Hi, Arnaldo...Not sure whether your local fuel contains ethanol.  If so, I can share two brief stories that may apply here...

     

    1) Story #1: My Honda XR350R motorcycle has been in the "fleet" since the mid-1990s, it has dual Keihin carburetors that many consider problematic.  I have no problem with these primary/secondary carburetors whatsoever, they have worked flawlessly under every kind of operating and starting situation without the need to re-jet from 2500-7000 feet altitude...Base tuning/jetting is for approximately 4000-4500 feet elevation.  The bike has a SuperTrapp exhaust, tuned correctly, which I believe makes the engine far less altitude sensitive.  

     

    5-1/2 years ago during a move, I parked the motorcycle and did not drain the fuel bowls.  The cycle stayed parked way longer than expected, more than two years...The pilot jet on the primary carburetor had been exposed to ethanol pump gas, and when I attempted to start the engine, it was very difficult.  The engine would not idle and only ran smoothly from approximately 1/4-throttle and upward.  This was the classic symptom of a clogged pilot jet.

    I tried to spray clean the pilot jet, the fuel pickup tube and the idle screw passageway using NAPA spray carburetor cleaner, which usually works very well.  Not this time, the engine would not idle.  I removed the pilot jet and discovered that the fuel orifice was clogged so badly that a dip in Berryman Chemtool Carburetor and Parts Cleaner did nothing to clean up this pilot jet.  The cleaner thoroughly cleansed the carburetor body, fuel passageways and other carburetor parts by simply following the directions.

    Note: The 50-State VOC compliant version of this cleaner in a 96 fl.oz. kit works very well for motorcycle carburetors.  (See details at the link.)...Dipping and rinsing with warm water is typically my cleaning process, wearing eye protection and nitrile or protective gloves around any carburetor cleaner.  Keihin carburetor bodies look like new when dipped and rinsed, and blowing out the passageways with compressed air further restores the carburetor.  Every part of this cleaning approach turned out well except the pilot jet, which remained clogged.

    Clearing a clogged brass jet is very unpredictable.  Use of a tiny, properly sized "jeweler's" drill bit, a sized wire or a welder's tip cleaner is not sensible.  If the clogged jet is like "cement", there is a high likelihood that a sized drill, even turned with your finger tips, will move off-center and scarf out the brass wall of the jet.  Welding tip cleaners are obviously risky, as they are mini-files.  Unless you can clean the jet with carburetor dip or a similar chemical approach, consider replacing it...Lemon and water is a new one, I'm doubtful that it would unclog a solidly plugged jet.  I've used citrus and water-soluble alcohol cleaners with little success.  In fact, ethanol or alcohol water based cleaner is not much different than alcohol/ethanol fuel.  I might use citrus solution or an alcohol-based cleaner for "pre-cleaning" the carburetor before thoroughly drying it off then dipping in a bona fide carburetor cleaner like Berryman Chem-Dip.

    So, the fix wasn't complicated:  I replaced the primary carburetor's pilot jet with a $6 Keihin replacement jet and purchased two overhaul gasket sets.  Shop around on this one, as Keihin is simply Keihin (short versus long jet style, match with the OEM jet).  There are many sources for these jets.  Honda OEM replacement jets are spendy.  I found this jet through a Kawasaki dealer.  Most independent motorcycle shops have direct lines to Keihin jet sources, too.

    2) Story #2: The Honda XR650R motorcycle engine would not start...I bought the cycle in this condition from the previous owner.  First-off, the OEM petcock filter (plastic) had disintegrated from setting with fuel in the gas tank for some time—again, ethanol/gasoline.  I spent considerable time trying to kick start the engine before performing a cylinder leakdown test.

    I strongly advocate meeting four criteria before trying to "tune" an engine:  normal compression, proper valve timing, proper valve lift (includes valve clearances or an unseated exhaust valve from the auto-decompressor like DavidEasum emphasizes) plus normal oil pressure once the engine runs.  These are not spark/ignition or carburetor issues.  Once these four criteria are okay, you can look for vacuum leaks, carburetor issues and ignition/spark troubles.

    The engine failed the leakdown test and turned up with damaged intake valves from dirt seeping around the edge of the aftermarket air filter (a previous owner install).  I rebuilt the top engine, presenting magazine viewers with the process from the L.A. Sleeve sublet machine work to the actual teardown how-to overview.   My complete upper engine rebuild became available to owners as a Vimeo On Demand HD video rental.  Forum member DavidEasum was an early viewer/renter of the HD video.  David's rebuild has been a great success, which pleases me!

    My XR650R's overall engine condition was now "as new" with the additional installation of the Stage 1 Hot Cams camshaft (no more auto-decompressor!) during the upper engine rebuild.  I then concentrated on air filtration, intake seal and the carburetor.  (The ignition was stock and tested fine.)

    The carburetor findings were interesting:  Jetting was a 125 main jet, the stock North American recipe for meeting EPA standards and toasting the upper engine!  The pilot was a 68 (not 68s).  This engine was half-tuned with the uncorked intake manifold (stock 49-State type), an unrestricted air box and the Power-Up Kit exhaust tip!

    The motorcycle had, in Western American horse language, been "ridden hard and put away wet".  Not abused, just thoroughly used!  My guess is that the 125 main jet had been reinstalled and not been in place for long.  Likely the previous owner could not get the engine to run "lean enough" due to the compression loss from the intake valve leakage.  He may have stuck the OEM 125 main jet in the carburetor to compensate.

    Note: If the 125 main jet had been in the carburetor for a long time, this is a testimonial to two things:  1) the range of jetting flexibility for an XR650R engine and 2) the ruggedness of this engine in tolerating such an ultra lean fuel mix after being uncorked!  I'm guessing that a 125 main jet was not in the uncorked version of this engine for very long.  A 175 main jet would have been "normal" for the uncorking or "Honda Power-Up Kit" that was in place everywhere else.

    I did a 172 main jet, providing enough fuel for the uncorked engine and a Hot Cams Stage 1 camshaft.  We're at 4,200 to 4,400 feet elevation, depending upon which end of the valley we stand.  I'm now convinced that a 165 or so main jet would likely work optimally for this altitude.  I do not have exhaust mods beyond the Power-Up Tip with a larger opening.  The muffler canister is stock.

    Note: Currently, I am testing an Enerpulse Pulstar spark plug to offset the slightly rich-side 172 main jet burn.  The engine runs very well and did so before the spark plug change.  At this elevation, the 172 main jet produces a bit darker coloration than ideal but does not show over-rich fuel wetting.  This means I'm not placing the engine at risk of cylinder fuel wash, plug fouling or carbon buildup...I will watch the burn over time, my aim is jetting that will be tolerable between "low desert" (2,500 feet or so) to 6,500 feet for at least short periods of riding.  Primary jetting is for 4,000-4,500 feet.  The engine break-in is still underway (though you can't tell with this XR650R power-to-weight ratio!).  I'll leave jetting as is for now.

    The "story" does not end here.  After rebuilding the top engine and performing the jet change, I finally did what should have taken place in the first place: removal of the carburetor, cleaning it and rebuilding it with a "kit".  (These carburetor overhaul "kits" are ridiculously expensive for the minimal parts included.  I went with OEM Honda here and would recommend shopping for less costly Keihin sources or aftermarket.)  The ultimate discovery was that the previous owner, in a hasty effort to get the motorcycle running (likely while I was en route to look at it!) accidentally left the slide linkage disconnected.

    Despite the throttle return pressure, the carburetor slide was parked at the bottom of its bore.  This provided a sure way to get a considerable cardio-vascular workout with a guarantee that the engine will not start.  Use care when hooking up this internal carburetor linkage.  Make sure it will be intact and working properly 100 miles from nowhere!

    When I finally knew this engine would start, I was still wary.  Other forums are rife with folklore on how difficult these engines are to start.  Intuitively, I know that every properly tuned motorcycle I've ever owned has started immediately, and I could not believe that Honda built a motorcycle that would not start readily.  (Imagine trying to sell a brand new Honda XR650R motorcycle at the dealership and having to go through a five minute ritual with guesswork about whether the engine would start!  Does that make sense?)  Fortunately, my theory held.  The engine fired on the second kick.

    Soon I got even better at the starting sequence.  In my experience, which reflects the altitude and slightly rich-side jetting, the engine requires very little choke effort, especially in warm weather.  In fact, it's intolerant of over-rich starting.  With a piston approaching 350 cubic inch (5.7L) Chevrolet V-8 size, this thumper can flood quickly.  Unlike many owners who want to "load up" the engine with fuel, I'm conservative in both my choking and priming chores.

    I'm sharing all of this to provide a broader view of how and when an XR650R engine will start.  Once you're very sure the engine should start, trust that it will and don't over-fuel it.  When very cold (ambient temperature), I will:

     1) Set to full choke

     2) Kick the engine through twice with the manual decompression lever pulled in and ignition off

     3) Find TDC under compression (decompressor lever released)

     4) Kick past TDC just the slightest amount with the decompressor lever pulled in

     5) Again release the decompression lever

     6) Turn on the ignition switch

     7) Kick through firmly with the throttle closed

    😎 The classic adage: If the engine does not start after a few kicks, repeat steps.

    When the engine fires, typically on the first run through these steps, I immediately take the choke lever down to half or even off, depending upon the air temperature.  If necessary, I will "feather" the throttle and not let the engine stall during the first mile of riding.  For me, even half choke is only for a brief time.

    The idle may be unstable with the engine cold and choke off.  With the thermostat doing its job, the engine should be warmed within a mile or so.   Experiment here, as much depends on your riding habits, the altitude and temperature, and how much you care to coax a cold engine to warm up.  Less choke means less carbon issues, less risk of spark plug fouling and less risk of fuel washing the lube off the cylinder wall.  The Honda XR650R is carbureted and still kick start era, but it does not need to be a hardship to start or warm up.  If you want to get past these quirks, you need a contemporary CRF450R (how about a factory dual sport 500 version soon, Honda?) or a KTM plate-able dual sport 500 EXC with electric start and EFI.

    Your idle mix screw setting is correct for initial start, Arnaldo.  Try to reset it only after running the engine to fully warmed up (unless it simply won't idle well at the current setting).  Idle speed of 1400+/- 100 rpm is factory and realistic.  This may seem fast to some, but the thumper fluctuates idle speed between cold and fully warmed.

    Check things over.  Make sure the fuel petcock is not disintegrating within the tank and clogging the petcock and carburetor.  Let's get that XR650R performing at peak.  The Big Gun exhaust modification cannot impact tuning that dramatically, and I believe the 175-185 main jetting will prove plenty at sea level.

    Keep in mind that the main jet flow has little to do with lower throttle settings.  Performance exhaust manufacturers have benchmarks like Johnny Campbell and Andy Grider battling it out in Baja, Mexico during the filming of "Dust to Glory".  Main jet recommendations account for wide open throttle desert racing demands.

    Moses

    Adventure Motorcycle Riding in the UAE

    in Places You Have Been...

    Posted

    Wow, David!  When you get going, there's no stopping...Just months ago, you had never ridden on dirt.  Now you're keeping company with Dakar riders!  The F800 GS Beemer actually looks impressive under these conditions, your Honda XR650R would be a breeze after subjecting yourself to adventure-touring riding at the edge...What a great opportunity!   

     

    Any tips to pass on?  What's the trick to keeping a beast like the BMW F800 GS upright and moving in sand dunes?

     

    Moses

    Front Shackle Reversal on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ 4x4

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    Actually, Jeep did design the military M38A1 (prototype for the CJ-5) with front spring anchors at the front ends of the front springs.  The earliest CJ-5 was built on this frame.  My 1955 CJ-5 featured in the Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1946-71 has this frame as stock equipment.  The U.S. military M38A1 or "MD" and its military export equivalent stayed in steady production from 1951 (began replacing the MC or M38 flatfender that year) until 1968, some units may have been built as late as 1971.

     

    You're right about the rear shackle bracket being riveted to the frame.  The front shackle brackets bolt into place with the nuts in the frame being the notorious type that partner with "self-cutting thread" bolts.  This same approach was used by AMC on the skid plate frame nuts that often spin loose during bolt removal and require tack welding a new (i.e., real and graded) nut into the frame.  These bolt-threaded frame nuts were apparently a production time saver for pneumatic assembly line wrenches.  They required very hard (i.e., less ductile and more prone to snapping) self-tapping bolts and compliant frame nuts.

     

    Note: Use care removing these shackle bracket and skid plate bolts, they often seize and snap during removal.  I soak frame nut threads with penetrant and use an air impact wrench/gun cautiously.  In my experience, hand wrench removal is more likely to twist the heads off these bolts.  Impact force can work to advantage if used properly.

     

    For those who want to keep the stock shackle orientation, there are ways to upgrade the bolt-on front shackle brackets.  Years ago, as featured in my Jeep Owner's Bible, friend Kirk Rogers and I produced the Westfir Engineering front shackle bracket replacements that worked with the stock spring anchor positions.  These sturdy, extended brackets picked up the additional support of forward bumper bolt holes and provided added support forward of the bushing eyes.  This eliminated the OE "hanging out" eye end and overcame the stock bracket's glaring punch hole weakness at the frame rivet.  This bolt-on bracket provided additional support and worked well, substantially improving the front shackle mounting method.  We passed the sturdy design to Full-Traction Suspension, not sure whether they still offer this solution or preserved our original design.

     

    Here are some currently available shackle reversal kits to review before making your decision:

     

    1) http://www.4wheelpar...HEu0aApZk8P8HAQ

     

    2) http://www.4wd.com/J...f8bwaAk4_8P8HAQ

     

    3) http://www.4wheelpar...OrdsaAvUI8P8HAQ

     

    These are examples, you'll get the idea.  Some incorporate a frame structural cross brace, which is not a bad idea with an LS V-8 installation.  In any case, there's an obvious market and reason for these kits.  Be aware that this is chassis work that requires several considerations:

     

    1) The axle must be located in its original position.  I take measurements in "diamond" from front axle to rear axle and follow stock wheelbase measurements.  The precise wheelbase (wheel vertical centerline-to-centerline) for your 1981 Jeep CJ-7 is 93.4 inches.

     

    2) Front driveline must not compress too far on upswing of the axle, as the arc is now from the front end of the springs, which takes the axle rearward as the springs flatten under compression.  Obviously, the splines in the front driveline spline coupler must be within normal range of travel within the coupler.

     

    3) A quality kit should consider front axle caster adjustment.  Steering caster is critical, and final caster angle should be at least 4-degrees positive, some use up to 6-degrees for tighter "motor grader" turning and assured steering return to center.  Caster angle can be accomplished with proper spring arch and perch locations.  If  necessary, steel (not aluminum) wheel alignment wedges can be placed between the axle spring perches and the springs to rotate the axle housing for precise caster setting.  

     

    4) These kits do require drilling and welding.  The welding should be done to professional grade, as this is a safety modification.  If the instructions are complete, the measurements for placement of the brackets and sleeves will be included.  You might seek out these instructions before committing to a shackle reversal kit.  If measurements are accurate, you still have the Old Man Emu lift spring concern about the 1/2-inch adjustment.  Take this into consideration before permanently positioning the brackets or rear frame sleeves. 

     

    Note:  Some shackle reversal kits have a built-in lift like 1.5".  This would require a rear spring consideration, possibly installation of longer, heavy-duty rear shackles, followed by adjusting the rear axle pinion angle (steel wedges if necessary).  Be aware that any CJ lift in the 4"-plus range will require driveline length modifications.

     

    5) Since the shackle reversal does require frame changes, make sure the approach is what you want.  "Restoring" to stock would be a fabrication chore later.

     

    I have done the shackle reversal on both Jeep and Land Cruiser FJ40 chassis with great success.  In the case of an unquestionably short wheelbase (90") for towing FJ40, I did a reversal kit prior to pulling a 21' travel trailer.  With a load distribution hitch and anti-sway brake, this setup worked well in Mojave Desert crosswinds and on curvy roads.  The biggest gain is not pushing the front axle forward from OE rear spring anchors at the frame.  In my experience, the trailing front axle makes for more precise steering and reduced risk of wander.

     

    Caution: I do not endorse or recommend pulling hefty or lengthy trailers with short wheelbase vehicles!  The Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser was very short for this kind of trailering; however, it had a comparatively wider track width, more like a full-size pickup truck.  I chose the tow equipment carefully, and this '80s OFF-ROAD Magazine project had a lift kit, stiff springs, a Saginaw power steering conversion with one-piece draglink and a one-piece tie-rod, 10" wide (with negative offset) wheels and 33x12.5x15 tires to counter the lift kit's raised center-of-gravity.

     

    When loss of control under braking is alluded, I often find that the steering linkage alignment is off.  Upon hard braking, there is bump steer or in this case veering caused by a radically sloping tie-rod or draglink that steers the vehicle (typically to the right in left-hand drive 4x4s with a beam axle) sharply and abruptly.  Steering linkage alignment over the range of axle travel is critical for preventing bump steer, regardless of the leaf spring anchor location.

     

    If you install any one of these kits or another, please let us know whether the design and instructions clarify the mounting locations for the brackets.  Is the kit easy to set up and install?  The Old Man Emu springs must be longer than stock CJ if the front shackles require relocation.  Let us know how you resolve this with a shackle reversal if you do install a kit. 

     

    Your photos are great.  Thanks!

     

    Moses

    1981 Jeep CJ-7 Frame-Off Build Needs Brake Upgrade Solutions

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    To separate the topics, we've moved the shackle reversal kit discussion to a new topic at:  http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/486-front-shackle-reversal-on-a-1976-86-jeep-cj-4x4/.  For those interested in that discussion, please join us at the "Front Shackle Reversal on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ 4x4".

     

    This brake topic will continue here...Please follow and contribute at these two topic discussions!

     

    Moses

    Front Shackle Reversal on a 1976-86 Jeep CJ 4x4

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    As for the front shackle supports, since you have to move the brackets forward, this would be a good time to consider a front shackle reversal kit that puts the spring anchors at the front ends of the front springs.  The front axle then "trails" behind the anchors. 

     

    The vehicle tracks better with the front axle trailing from the forward-mounted anchors—instead of the front axle being pushed down the road by OE rear anchors and the leaf springs.  When you encounter an obstacle off-road with the shackle reversal, the front axle will lift up readily instead of driving all the thrust into the frame at the OEM rear anchor positions before compressing (lengthwise) the springs and ultimately "popping" the front axle upward.  Since you're configuring the shackle position anyway, it is also practical to install reverse shackle brackets at this time and re-hang the shackles at the rear of the front springs. 

     

    If you look at your OEM frame shackle brackets, they are a poor design.  AMC/Jeep punched a relief hole for clearing a frame rivet.  This relief hole also creates a weak area in the shackle bracket, and these factory bolt-on brackets are notorious for breaking or bending under load or during spring and axle articulation...another good reason for installing an aftermarket shackle reversal kit.  If you install a shackle reversal kit at the front end, take careful measurements to avoid altering the front axle location, wheelbase length or creating a front driveline length issue.  The front driveshaft must be able to extend and compress properly under full spring travel and articulation, without compromising the spline coupler engagement or bottoming the coupler under driveline compression.

     

    As for loss of control under hard braking with a shackle reversal kit installed, I can't imagine how that would happen.  With a shackle reversal kit installed, braking would pull the frame to a stop as the front axle and brakes apply.  Force would be pulling at the front mounted frame anchors in the same way the rear braking currently works. 

     

    With the OEM anchors at the rear end of the front springs, the front axle and brakes slow the vehicle by applying force rearward through the leaf springs to the anchors mounted to the frame at the rear end of the front springs.  In these two scenarios, I'd take my chances on brakes that slow the frame in a pulling fashion, rather than brakes that slow the vehicle by applying force through the aft ends of the front leaf springs. Shock absorber design and choices play a role here, too.

     

    There is also the question of a stabilizer bar.  On your CJ, the stabilizer bar helps keep the frame/body as level as possible on cornering.  During braking, the axle stays in lateral alignment due to the inherent design of leaf springs and their bushings—if the bushings are in good condition and of the right durometer or hardness. 

     

    Many remove the stabilizer bar to avoid installing the necessary longer links required with a lift kit—or to increase the range of axle articulation, which can be facilitated by using quick disconnect stabilizer links when off-roading.  Quality lift kits include stabilizer bar quick disconnect links of the right length to compensate for the lift.  Without a stabilizer bar, the vehicle acts like a vintage Jeep 4x4 on the highway: Cornering stability relies strictly on the leaf spring resistance and the condition of the spring bushings, shackles and anchors.

     

    As a point of interest, the 1987-95 YJ Wrangler uses a similar chassis layout to the CJ-7 yet adds a track bar along with the use of a stabilizer bar and links.  The track bar holds the front (or rear) solid/beam axle in a more precise lateral alignment as the axle rises and sets.  This contributes to better handling on-highway. 

     

    Semi-elliptic leaf springs, by design, provide a higher degree of lateral stability.  Link-and-coil suspension (or single radius arm suspension like a Ford F150 4x4) requires a track bar to keep the front or rear axle from floating uncontrollably sideways or laterally. 

     

    Moses

    1981 Jeep CJ-7 Frame-Off Build Needs Brake Upgrade Solutions

    in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models

    Posted

    Sounds like good progress around the brake system, David...As for the front shackle supports, since you have to move the brackets forward, this would be a good time to consider a front shackle reversal kit that puts the spring anchors at the front ends of the front springs.  The front axle then "trails" behind the anchors. 

     

    The vehicle tracks better with the front axle trailing from the forward-mounted anchors—instead of the front axle being pushed down the road by OE rear anchors and the leaf springs.  When you encounter an obstacle off-road with the shackle reversal, the front axle will lift up readily instead of driving all the thrust into the frame at the OEM rear anchor positions before compressing (lengthwise) the springs and ultimately "popping" the front axle upward.  Since you're configuring the shackle position anyway, it is also practical to install reverse shackle brackets at this time and re-hang the shackles at the rear of the front springs. 

     

    If you look at your OEM frame shackle brackets, they are a poor design.  AMC/Jeep punched a relief hole for clearing a frame rivet.  This relief hole also creates a weak area in the shackle bracket, and these factory bolt-on brackets are notorious for breaking or bending under load or during spring and axle articulation...another good reason for installing an aftermarket shackle reversal kit.  If you install a shackle reversal kit at the front end, take careful measurements to avoid altering the front axle location, wheelbase length or creating a front driveline length issue.  The front driveshaft must be able to extend and compress properly under full spring travel and articulation, without compromising the spline coupler engagement or bottoming the coupler under driveline compression.

     

    Historically, I've not been a big fan of fiberglass bodies unless one lives in the Rust Belt.  Quality steel replacement bodies are available, they generally fit better, require less hardware adaptation and provide sufficient electrical grounds for body mounted D.C. devices and lighting.  I encourage those with recent experience around Jeep fiberglass bodies to add their comments.

     

    Moses

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