Moses Ludel
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Posts posted by Moses Ludel
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60Bubba...Well, at least the aftermarket hinges are consistent: My '81 CJ-5 built in 1989-90 had aftermarket chrome and stainless pieces. None of them fit right either. I spent about the same time you have straightening and compromising the parts alignment.
Your Super Glue on the Heli-Coil inserts should be okay, you merely had to secure the hardware in place until the screws "locked" the coils under tension. Moses would use Loctite 271 Red on the outside of the Heli-Coil threads, install them while the Loctite is still wet and uncured, let the Loctite cure completely, then install the screws and torque them.
I really like your clock lens fix, the dash looks classically fantastic. Nice photos, too! All is on par for the aftermarket parts course. Be content that the factory pieces did not fit much better...Your Jeep is really looking good, it will all be worth it at the end...Assure your wife and have a nice New Year's dinner out—away from the CJ-7 for an evening...
Moses
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Doug...This is a very common adapter and should be in the Weatherhead fittings at NAPA. You're right, this is NPT to a flare nut. NPT is 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and so forth, easy to identify in this instance by the canister threads. The flare seat thread is based upon the required tubing diameter, which also determines the flare nut size.
The lower end of the canister to the block is an oil hose. Here is a link to a Crown part and illustration that should demystify that oil hose: http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Jeep/Willys/Crown/Oil_Line/1946/J0910290.html?source=productads&c_aid=43257666626&c2cid=6aeae580-27fc-487c-af51-b89ded673350. Crown is popular, and this part number is available through a variety of Crown outlets. Omix-ADA should have it, I would think.
Note: The easiest way to match up a tubing piece with flare nuts is by measuring the flare fittings with an open end wrench. Tubing size is always matched with the flare nut size.
If the canister is off the engine, take it to NAPA to match up the NPT thread size. NAPA will have flare tubing for fuel/brake that is already sized for length and has the flare nuts and double-flared ends in place. Just pick the correct length tubing with flare nuts in place and bend accordingly. Bending can be done with any of the bender types, the better quality benders make smoother radii and are less likely to kink the tubing—which will have you buying another piece.
Many of the Jeep lines were copper clad. This is not the same as copper tubing; copper clad is actually steel tubing with an anti-corrosive copper coating. Brake lines are always steel, double flared and rated for brake use even if copper clad. I always use steel fuel lines with double-flared ends and flare nuts.
The most common usage of copper tubing was the mechanical oil gauge lines in vintage vehicles. (Since the late 'sixties, nylon tubing has been common unless you want authenticity.) Copper tubing is commonly ferrule fitted, using ferrules, compression nuts and brass ferrule seat fittings. Single flaring a copper tube end is unacceptable for automotive use. A single flare copper end is likely to split from vibration. Double flaring is not practiced with copper tubing, copper is too soft and will not tolerate the flare fold and compression...Single flare copper tubing is for residential plumbing.
See the Summit Racing catalog for brake, fuel and oil line ideas...Very helpful.
Moses
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Glad you could enjoy the exchange, Doug...We'll continue the conversation here at these forums!
Moses
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The concern is "why" the split and splice. This likely has to do with taking the ECU off-line. This is the inexpensive Motorcraft module, not the factory ECU. Confirm by going to the local motor supply/auto parts house and asking for a Motorcraft module for a Ford or Jeep product. It should look just like this module.
Identify the ECU, and see if that's been bypassed. The ECU, as I shared, would be more like the "$800" device, most likely obsolete at this point.
The common ignition module is under $50. (The first one that turned up online was $28.95.) Here's some quick insight into the module, including its fitment within the ignition wiring circuit: https://www.google.com/search?q=Jeep+Motorcraft+ignition+module&biw=1366&bih=673&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=yhmiVOSxI8mSyATSxoGgAw&ved=0CFwQ7Ak.
Moses
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Jeff...Since the ECU and other devices were disconnected, the Mixture Control Stepper Motor likely runs in WOT or enrichment mode now. There is also the lack of a cat, which means the downstream HC and CO are not cleaned up. Cough, cough, surge, surge!
The Howell system, if you have budget, is the way to go. A cat would restore downstream emissions clean-up if you can also restore the Pulse Air system. The ignition can run without the retard functions and performs well with the Howell system. I can share simple vacuum routing.
Actually nice to live in the middle of nowhere...We miss that...That's where your great wildlife photo subjects live!
Best,
Moses
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Forman...The defective $800 item is likely the ECU (control module). For a complete restoration, the best approach in my view is to find a donor CJ with all of the original devices available and still in place. This would be a vehicle that is otherwise stock, maybe at a recycler now, or one that is slated for a V-8 transplant or a later 4.0L engine swap.
On that note, there are those who have taken a 1991-up OEM 4.0L complete engine, or just the cylinder head, PCM and peripherals, and waded through the wiring and parts adaption, ultimately ending up with a complete 4.0L inline six or at least a 4.0L cylinder head and MPI system with all its fuel-and-spark components. If you consider the 4.0L alternative, donor pieces could be a Wrangler, XJ Cherokee or Grand Cherokee with a 4.0L inline six engine. All pieces from the tank forward to the engine would be needed. A 1991-95 Jeep 4.0L donor vehicle would most closely emulate the Mopar EFI conversion.
Adapting a 4.0L head to a 4.2L block can be done with some relatively simple port block-off changes to the head that match the 4.2L block. Valvetrain adjustments like valve clearance are also involved. I dedicated a Vlog to AMC/Jeep inline six valve clearance adjustment. That video shares the concerns and remedies. It is available at the magazine...
This 4.0L upgrade would be a viable option if you're good with wiring, can follow factory wiring and vacuum schematics, and have enough patience to transfer all of the necessary parts. The Mopar EFI Conversion, based on the '91-'95 4.0L parts, winds up with a harness that only has four wires to tie into the OEM CJ chassis. The Mopar kit harness includes fuel pump wiring to the tank area, the entire engine harness for all sensors, the ignition, PCM and EFI components. Without that harness, you would need 1991-up Wrangler or Cherokee/Grand Cherokee harness sections from the donor vehicle to splice into the OEM CJ chassis wiring. This demands resin core solder connections and plenty of heat shrink tubing to prevent voltage drops in the EFI circuits.
We can discuss this further. Without the original ECU function, there are a number of concerns for how the ignition and BBD carburetor are currently functioning on the CJ. We can troubleshoot and evaluate ways to make the engine run adequately if you stick with carburetion.
There are even aftermarket carburetors like the Weber retrofit that will eliminate the BBD's Sole-Vac system and MC Stepper Motor if there is no longer a driver system for the OEM carburetor. (There are even BBD carburetors without Sole-Vac or a Mixture Control Stepper Motor for that matter, we can discuss those carburetors if practical.) If necessary, the ignition can be readily wired to run from the Jeep/Motorcraft module without the use of vacuum retard or any ECU involvement.
Note: The Weber conversion kit was not emissions legal years ago and is likely still not 50-State emissions legal. Bypassing the ECU is also not emissions legal in states requiring vehicle emissions inspection.
You have a lot of options. Budget will dictate the direction...
Moses
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Fellow Forum Members...I am the guest for a 'Live Q&A Session' at Facebook Jeep Talk online. The scheduled time is 8 p.m. EST on December 29, 2014. If you have time and would like to join, here are more details from the magazine's Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/4WDMechanixMagazine.Facebook Friends...I am a guest at Monday night's Jeep Talk chat at Facebook. To make sure I'm on my game, Trevor Bryson shares, "Jeep Talkers, I am getting excited about Monday evening's Live Q&A Session guest Moses Ludel! Please join me ...at 8:00 pm EST to be wowed by quite possibly the smartest man in Jeep Knowledge. I'm like a kid in a candy store!" If you would like to join the discussion, click to https://www.facebook.com/groups/JeepTalk. Our live Q&A and general discussion about anything Jeep will begin at 5 p.m. PST—or 8 p.m. EST—and all other time zones accordingly! I look forward...Join us if you have the time!We'll see how this works...Maybe there's a '4WD Mechanix Magazine Chat Time' in our future?Moses
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WrangleDangle...It does take some orientation to forums...We're a friendly bunch and always willing to assist...
The used factory hardtops are at a premium. If your TJ Wrangler came as a factory soft top model, a factory hardtop can be purchased used. They tend to be scarce, as most owners keep the hardtop for winter months. Garage ceiling hoists for the top are popular.
I searched the aftermarket, and Smittybilt offers a hardtop with necessary upper hard doors. You'd want these upper doors for security, what's the point of a hardtop without secure doors, right? Here's a catalog offering at 4WD Hardware: http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Tops-Jeep-Top-Accessories/One-Piece-Hardtop-with-Upper-Doors.aspx?t_c=75&t_s=460&t_pt=3294&t_pn=S%2fB519801.
Compare this with the dealer's offer. Make sure the dealer is talking about an OEM Mopar hardtop as a comparison. In either case, you need all hardware, insulation around doors and everything to convert from a soft top to hardtop. Weigh the costs. If you pursue an OEM (original equipment) Jeep TJ top used, be aware that the doors need to be part of that package. You need the full doors with insulation. Insulation restoration kits are available in the aftermarket.
Other members may have suggestions or parts sources here...We're available for any further questions...Let us know how this turns out.
Moses
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Umm...Well, that's no different than the typical Jeep OE clutch pushrod. I grabbed 1989 YJ Wrangler as an example:
1989 YJ Wrangler Hydraulic Clutch Linkage.pdf
Note that there's no bushing on the OE pushrod eye to the clutch pedal stud. This is a friction wear point over time, like you discovered with your CJ brake pedal. (On that brake pedal and heim joint installation, the wear would stop if there's room to cut threads on the pedal stud's end and use a flat washer and top lock nut to secure the heim joint's center sleeve on the stud.) Hydraulic clutch pressure is uniform, lighter force, which likely slows the wear at the clutch pedal stud.
You'll see that Jeep uses a wave washer and flat washer to sandwich this hydraulic clutch pushrod eye. You're on the right track now...
Moses
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Hi, forman, always great to see your posts and topics! The 4.2L Jeep inline six engine from 1981-90 is an emissions maze. The fuel/spark/Evap systems overlap, including the BBD Carter carburetor with Sole-Vac and a Mixture Control Stepper Motor, the emissions control circuits, the Pulse Air to the catalytic converter and the ECU regulated ignition. The tie-in is the ECU or engine control module, also called the MCU.
There are a variety of vacuum and electrical devices in the emissions, spark and carburetor circuits. "Tuning" this engine involves making sure that each of the vacuum circuits is intact and operating properly. In my experience with the BBD Carter carburetor and the emissions systems on these models, there is only one way to make it "right": restore the original equipment devices and their functions. This includes the ignition and fuel systems, the EGR circuit and the EVAP system.
Note: Pulse Air and the cat are legal requirements but optional on the restoration list, as this is a passive, downstream system. The O2 sensor must function, though, in order for the OEM system to work properly. Pulse Air involves considerable heat at the cat, which requires a silicone tube connector hose; anything else will melt!
What generally occurs is the kind of mess you've inherited. Some of the system is bypassed or eliminated. Since these components all interact, there is no clear formula for eliminating subsets. As one example, there are those who deactivate the Sole-Vac and MC Stepper Motor circuit for the carburetor, which means that ECU controlled fuel enrichment cycling is nonfunctional. This can lead to harmful detonation if stuck in the lean mode. If enrichment mode is on all the time, the engine will consistently run rich, carbon up and damage the exhaust valves.
You can convert the ignition to a conventional, straight-up module triggered unit without vacuum retard function on the distributor. Though a violation of emissions requirements, the distributor will function normally with both centrifugal and vacuum advance. The cat can be eliminated, too, if the Pulse Air injection gets capped off. As a point of interest, any of these measures violate Federal and some states' emissions laws, whether these laws get enforced or not.
The most significant gains and legal way around the system is a 50-State legal Mopar EFI (MPI) Conversion or the Howell TBI conversion. You'll find the Howell system simpler to install and less costly, its backbone is a stock 4.3L GM TBI with adapter to the BBD intake manifold pattern and a GM-type computer. Bill Howell adapted this OE system to the 4.2L Jeep engine with impressive results!
Either system uses an ignition distributor. The Mopar kit provides a new 4.0L OE distributor. Howell uses the stock OEM 4.2L distributor, which can be easily reworked to operate without the original ECU and the vacuum retard function. Mopar EFI/MPI is basically a complete factory 4.0L MPI induction, sensor and ignition system with a '94-'95 4.0L Jeep Wrangler PCM.
Cost is involved with an EFI conversion, and the Howell system is easier on the wallet and requires less installation time. Both systems use a computer-triggered EFI inline fuel pump. (I've done the Mopar conversion with an in-tank pump on 2.5L TBI and 4.2L YJ Wrangler models.) The larger performance gains, arguably, would be the Mopar EFI system, although TBI with a stock manifold produces excellent torque and improved fuel efficiency.
Here is a link to my magazine article that helps clarify EFI conversion systems. The MSD Atomic EFI prototype installation is not 50-State legal at this time, however, the install follows guidelines similar to the Howell EFI/TBI system: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/MSD-Atomic-EFI-for-Jeep-4.2L-Inline-Six.html. Review this article for insights. I also have articles on the Mopar EFI system at the magazine, and you will find a detailed installation in my Jeep CJ Rebuilder's Manual: 1972-86 (Bentley Publishers).
If the cost of an EFI conversion is too high, I recommend restoring the existing systems. The catalytic converter is optional, depending upon legal demands and your desire to meet emissions standards. A performance cat like the Random Technology unit on my XJ Cherokee will meet emissions tailpipe readings if you decide to restore the Pulse Air and catalytic systems.
For an orientation, here is the basic engine vacuum circuit and device orientation for most '81-'90 Jeep 4.2L engines. If you need specific 1984 CJ Jeep 4.2L vacuum circuit or engine electrical diagrams and parts listings, I can furnish those materials. This is a start and will help clarify the typical components in these systems:
1989 Wrangler 4.2L Engine Vacuum Auto Trans.pdf 1989 YJ Wrangler 4.2L Pulse Air.pdf YJ Wrangler 4.2L Carburetor Details.pdf
Start by reviewing these materials. If you decide to rebuild the BBD Carter carburetor, I have an in depth how-to with illustrations at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Rebuilding-the-Two-Barrel-BBD-Feedback-Carburetor.html. This is also covered in detail within my 1972-86 Jeep CJ rebuilder's book.
Moses
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Sounds like Christmas was fun, smokes3456! I had to smile about the "egg under the pedal" comment, that was my father's mantra when teaching me to drive the four-cylinder Jeep CJ-5 with a T98 four-speed transmission. Fuel was cheap but he had lived through the Great Depression Era...It was the Muscle Car Era at the time, and acceleration was the order of the day with Nevada's "basic speed law" in the 'sixties. Essentially, there was no speed limit in rural areas if traffic was light and the pavement dry.
Since the mid- 'nineties, after many years of testing performance cars like the ZR-1 Corvette for magazines, my driving technique has been like yours. When unloaded, the upshifts with the Ram 3500 diesel and 48RE transmission have averaged around 1350 rpm (1200-1500 rpm) since new. This is how you get fuel efficiency with any engine and especially a truck design diesel. We are so fortunate to have Cummins power in our light trucks—drive accordingly!
The 100 gallon tank will do the trick. I have a 75 gallon Transfer Flow tank plus the factory 34 gallon tank. This is really the ticket for long trips. I fill at our town, Fernley, Nevada, one of the least expensive fuel sites in the West and along I-80. (When the price is competitive, I fill with GDiesel at Sparks, Nevada. I prefer using GDiesel over any other diesel fuel or additive. See my article and video at: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Performance-Diesel-Fuel-GDiesel.html.) Here are some details on my tank and Transfer Flow:
http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Transfer-Flow-Fuel-Tank-Manufacturing-Process.html, http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Dodge-Ram-3500-Makeover-Transfer-Flow-Auxiliary-Fuel-Tank.html, and http://www.4wdmechanix.com/2005-Dodge-Ram-3500-Major-Makeover.html
I can drive to Moab, Utah and back (about 720 miles each way) with plenty of fuel left over, passing all of the stations en route and back, avoiding the higher priced fuel. SEMA Show Las Vegas, the round trip is simple with plenty left over. San Diego, the Pacific Northwest, it's all on Fernley or Sparks fuel! California is definitely the state to avoid fuel purchases. On rare occasions, like when pulling a travel trailer, I will top off fuel at Independence, California, the tribal owned station with discount diesel fuel.
Which tank did you get? We'd like to see photos of the install. You're going to really enjoy this tank and fuel range! Expect a slight drop in mileage with the added weight when the auxiliary tank is full, that's 850-900 pounds of add-on tank and fuel weight depending upon the new tank's weight. Worth the trade-off.
Moses
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This is very impressive and a terrific contribution from Tow Trust. Tom Miller and his parents have not only given owners of KJ Cherokee models an opportunity to continue towing, they have done this without a profit incentive! Tow Trust has defrayed cost dramatically rather than capitalize on a dire situation.
I would like to thank the Tow Trust firm, Tom Miller and Paul for their effort. Paul, you took a constructive initiative and kept up the morale of fellow KJ owners at this forum. Tom and Tow Trust, you have my deepest respect for your willingness to assist these Jeep KJ Cherokee owners at the UK. I will make every effort to support and promote Tow Trust at these forums and the magazine.
Moses
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If this comes up again, I have the YJ part numbers for comparison...
Moses
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Terrific sound system, 60Bubba! This can really improve quality of life...Great addition!
Spdljohn, on that hydraulic clutch rod, it looks like you're using the split lock washer as a "spring tensioner" for the clutch pushrod eye end. Does the pushrod have a nylon or bronze I.D. bushing that's riding on the shoulder of your high tensile bolt? For a clutch hydraulic master cylinder, the apply pressure is uniform and consistent at the pedal, so this should work. You might consider spring wave washer(s) in place of the split ring lock washer. Wave washers are often used in these kinds of applications. Here is a listing at MSC Direct: http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Fasteners/Washers-Shims/Wave-Washers-Springs?navid=12108761&rdrct=wave+washer.
In looking for a wave washer illustration, I stumbled onto this catalog of hardware. Check out the wave washers and also the very cool shoulder screws that might offer a hardware solution for certain applications: http://www.sdp-si.com/estore/coverpg/hardware.htm. Take a look at the other hardware available from this source, including shoulder screws. Here's an MSC Direct offering for similar hardware: http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Fasteners/Bolts-Screws/Bolts/Shoulder-Screws-Stripper-Bolts?navid=12108828&rdrct=shoulder+bolts.
There are also studs with shoulders and threaded back sides for applications like your clutch pedal pushrod. (The reverse of a shoulder screw.) I like to study these industrial catalogs for hardware options. McMaster-Carr is another one...
Moses
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"Jeep'd out" at the moment, eh, Mike! Each of the options you describe has its merits. I'd likely do a 5.3L V-8 and plan to go lighter on the throttle. This would pull the tires and current gearing well, and the NV3550 would hold up with a stock 5.3L; the NV3550 is close to the stamina of an AX15. Our fellow forum member spdljohn has an LS 6.0L with 325 horsepower coupled to a fresh AX15. Driven right, the NV3550 will hold up. The NV4500 would be an explosion-proof alternative.
Like that 241-J transfer case, too. V-8 material...A D44 at the rear would suffice, even the D30 at the front would hold up with the 35s and 4.88 gearing. The front axle is only engaged with the rear pushing, the torque split is 50/50, the D30 gets only half the load placed on the D44 in 2WD mode. A D30 under this arrangement can hold up, though many opt for a 44. The TJ Rubicon type front axle is available readily, though it uses the lighter axle tubes. The gain is ring-and-pinion size.
I'm a turbo diesel guy. The Isuzu four-cylinder Iveco/GMC diesel still has my attention. I had a tentative swap planned for the XJ Cherokee, our friends at Advance Adapters were fully supportive. Unfortunately, since 2009 California will not recognize this kind of swap. The Isuzu diesel is only used in medium-duty trucks. The Cherokee is passenger car/light truck emissions. I could "legally" do this swap at my rural Nevada county but preferred to do a 50-State legal swap.
Perhaps the medium-duty Isuzu four will turn up in someone's 1/2-ton pickup soon, as it is emissions friendly. The 3.0L Jeep/Ram 1500 V-6 diesel is still too new for ready access, and the cost of a swap engine would be prohibitive. I avoid unaffordable swaps, a disservice to the 4x4 community. Until this 3.0L V-6 becomes a Mopar Performance "crate motor", I'll avoid that engine for now.
Have a great New Year, Mike...
Moses
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Great solution, David...I see that Enco offers only stainless in the 3/8"-24 to 1/2"-20 bushing. They do have "Steel" in the 3/8"-24 to 1/2"-13 thread sizing. Enco describes both as having nylon locking patches or pellets. This will help prevent movement. I would confirm from Enco whether the addition of Red Loctite 271 is helpful. Also, ask about the tensile of the 303 stainless inserts. I'm curious where this material, as manufactured, fits metallurgically.
Note: I'm pleased to see that Enco is an industrial and machine shop supplier, that the products are U.S. Made, too!
Double inserts should do the trick for load bearing. Since the rod gets pushed with the pedal application, you can see how a jam nut on the pushrod will help bear some of the load. This reduces load on the insert threads. The shoulder of the jam nut will clamp the pushrod to the end of the joint.
Looking forward to some photos of your fit up. Two inserts will provide nearly the same length as the new joint's thread depth!
Moses
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David...Great job, just saw your post after posting this reply, you nailed it!!! (I returned to this post and edited it.)
The 303 stainless steel should be adequate tensile strength. Confirm the tensile strength from Enco...If tensile is sufficient for this application, for $4 and shipping, you're out of the woods...If the insert is available in a longer length than the 15/32" described, get it. Or consider two inserts stacked and aligned properly to accept the pushrod threads. This will distribute load over longer thread length and increase strength. (Thread the two inserts onto a bolt for installation. Keep Loctite off the internal threads of these inserts. Once Loctite cures on the outer threads and joint threads, remove the bolt.) Use 271 "red" thread locker on the insert(s) and be sure to install a jam nut on the pushrod to tie this all together and make a strong, secure piece. The graded jam nut will be a buffer for the pushrod load, too.
For those interested, I came up with several companies that manufacture thread reducer bushings:
1) Time-Sert, specifically the "Big-Sert" line, offers solutions. Here is the Big-Sert listing: http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert.html.
2) Keensert: http://www.afscamloc.net/prod3.php and also within the products sold by http://www.repairengineering.com/keensert.html.
Suggestion: Repair Engineering carries each of these brands. In any discussion of these solutions, be sure to ask about tensile strength or equivalent Grade for these inserts.
3) EZ-LOK, one of the products carried by Repair Engineering (http://www.repairengineering.com/e-z-lok.html) and available directly from EZ-LOK at http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsMetal/index.html. Here's more information about EZ-LOK: http://www.catalogds.com/db/service?domain=ezlok&command=locate&category=solid.
4) Heli-Coil, I personally only use Heli-Coil on lower stress parts like stripped aluminum cases and such. For a brake booster pushrod and alloy joint, I'd pass. In load areas and softer material like aluminum, I've had poor results with Heli-Coil when compared to products like the Time-Sert. Heli-Coil can be a terrific Sunday solution for a timing cover or valve cover stripped hole. Here's a size chart: http://www.noblefix.com/helicoil/HeliCoil-Size-Chart.html.
Be sure any product you use is tensile/grade appropriate for the application. The advantage of a thread reducer bushing is obvious, there would be no heat involved with the installation. Welding on alloy parts does involve diffuse heat, and any welding, like the coupler to joint described in my earlier reply, would require care and knowledge of how to insulate and prevent damage to the parts.
There are contact numbers at the website links above. spdljohn provided the Enco link in his last reply...This "cold" solution without welding makes the best sense.
Repair Engineering could be a resource. Automotive machine shops and I really like Time-Sert; however, Time-Sert products involve specialty installation tools—perhaps too costly for a one-time job! On that note, Repair Engineering may know a shop capable of performing one-time specialty tasks. Time-Sert, EZ-LOK and Keensert are each products that Repair Engineering carries. Enco should obviously be added to this list! Weigh costs...determine which approach is cost effective and safest.
Moses
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spdljohn...Another idea if feasible: Time-Sert makes thread repair kits for automotive and industrial applications. I looked at the Time-Sert catalog online and am not certain whether there is an insert for 1/2"-20 outside thread size down to 3/8"-24 inside thread. If Time-Sert has this size insert, you might be able to use a 1/2"-20 spherical (heim) joint with this "reducer" thread bushing insert.
See this video at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-How-to-Time-Sert-Repair-for-Damaged-Spark-Plug-Threads.html. The company is nearby at Reno, and I've worked with them around spark plug thread repairs.
Hold fast...I'll update on this possibility...I need to research further.
Moses
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David...I appreciate your idea of being able to adjust the booster pushrod length. The trouble with "filling the thread hole" is that the heat involved with weld fill would take the tensile out of the heim joint end and likely ruin the spherical joint. Also, a high enough tensile welding filler rod material would be difficult if not impossible to drill and tap—especially in a blind hole.
This brings up another idea: taking a quality grade (at least Grade 5 preferably Grade 8) 3/8"-24 coupler and welding it carefully to the 1/2-inch heim joint's threaded end. To reduce the stick out length of the joint's threaded end, the original threaded portion of the heim joint could be cut short with a band saw, keeping heat to a minimum. The threaded coupler could be beveled at the weld end before fit-up and welding. This would provide a deep enough weld fill for strength.
Welding the coupler to the 1/2" stud size heim joint should be TIG process to minimize risk of heat damage. Before welding, I would carefully insulate the heim spherical joint end from heat to prevent loss of tensile or damage to the joint's bushing—or loss of lubricant from the joint.
Using the correct welding filler rod, the coupler weld to the heim joint would be strong. You would end up having an adjustable threaded section at 3/8"-24 to accept the pushrod. I'd use a jam nut to secure the adjusted pushrod at the coupler end. Otherwise, the pushrod could rotate in the threads and change length.
If you do use the existing 1/2-inch pedal stud, I would tap the end of it to accept a graded top lock or nyloc aircraft nut. The nut would allow tightening the heim joint's center against the pedal. (You may want to add a graded flat washer if there is enough stud length. The backside of the heim can be shimmed away from the pedal arm if necessary for centering the heim to the booster.) Otherwise, if you use a cotter pin or clip like OEM, the high tensile heim joint center will rotate on the stud and continue to wear this stud out.
Moses
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60Bubba...Sounds like you're covered with convolution tubing, a good kit from Centech! Looking forward to the photos...
Moses
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David...I looked online for reducer couplings and heim joints. In my search, couplers were straight-through thread size. Heim joints each had the same thread size and stud bore size, an industry standard.
A couple of ideas...First, what's holding the stud pin to the pedal arm? Is that a pressed-in 1/2-inch stud with a weld on the opposite side? Or something similar to that arrangement? If so, the stud could be drilled just enough to break the weld, then pressed out. Cut the head off a long shoulder 3/8" Grade 8 bolt, leaving a proper length stud plus its threaded end.
This bolt shoulder/shank would run through the pedal hole and could be welded on center at the opposite side to the pedal, localizing the heat to prevent loss of heat treatment in the bolt's shank. TIG would be ideal for this kind of weld, it has a narrower heat affected zone (HAZ). The 3/8" heim joint would slide over the stud and be held in place with a Grade 8 flat washer and top lock nut. A 3/8" Grade 8 stud in this position would be strong with the heim aligned straight toward the booster.
Note: If there is concern about the gap between the bolt's shank and the bore of the pedal hole, an alloy steel sleeve or bushing, pressed into that gap, could solve the issue. The sleeve would go into place with the bolt shank and be part of the weld at the back side of the pedal. If TIG process, a slight weld could also be performed at the heim joint side of the stud, making sure the weld's crown is flat enough for proper fit of the heim joint. This would be a tightly fitted stud, likely much stouter than the OEM pedal and stud.
Another solution would be the use of a 1/2-inch "female" heim that has a 1/2-inch stud bore size and a 1/2-inch thread size on the female threaded end. The booster push rod stock of 3/8-inch 24-pitch could be centered in the female thread end of the heim joint and TIG welded in place. TIG welding has great penetration without a wide heat affected zone (HAZ). Confined to the end of the joint and done properly, the weld would not diminish the tensile of the threaded rod or the heim joint. Since this rod pushes, it is not subject to pull or elongation stresses, and a proper weld would hold the rod on center. The only downside with this is the confined space for this weld as illustrated in your photo. Welding in this confined space would be tricky and require protecting the brake booster from heat.
Any welding around the stud or heim joint threaded end should be performed with TIG. MIG (GMAW) and stick arc (SMAW) temperatures would be too high. The only alternative would be brazing with a high tensile filler like Weld Mold 26-C (100,000 psi tensile strength!) This would actually fill the thread area between the graded rod stock and heim threaded female end. This particular type of brazing can be done at a lower temperature of 1600 degrees F. If done properly, the pushrod and heim would not "normalize" or anneal in the process and lose its tensile strength. Here are details on Weld Mold 26-C brazing rod: http://www.weldmold.com/weld-mold-26-c/.
If the reduction in stud size is worrisome, consider making a pedal "saddle" bracket to support a 3/8" Grade 8 bolt. In this scenario, the pedal would be modified to have an extension saddle with an outer flange parallel to the pedal arm. Again, you would remove the existing stud. Instead of cutting the head from a 3/8-inch bolt, design this saddle or cage to support a through bolt. The heim joint would be "bolted" in place and secured to keep the heim's center from rotating. The bolt would be a pivot shaft rather than a stud if that works better.
From a strength standpoint, here are fastener specifications from Fastenal. Our concern for a bolt or bolt shank in this position would be shear strength: http://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf. Note the details and comments on the shear strength of bolts. 1/2-inch diameter is clearly heftier than 3/8". Assess the hardness and strength of the OEM pedal stud. Make sure your approach takes these size differences into account.
Moses
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yellow CJ6...You have a great vehicle, though it's engineering roots are definitely a postwar and 'fifties truck paradigm. Many opt for planting these classic bodies on a later truck platform, gaining the full advantages of a factory engineered chassis and powertrain that has modern features and amenities, improved handling/suspension and stouter components than the vintage trucks. There are some vintage trucks, however, that are just too valuable for anything but a bolt-for-bolt restoration. Be cautious which body gets sacrificed here.
If the body is not so rare that a late chassis mate-up is impractical, you can begin by finding a later model with a similar wheelbase and reasonably close track width for the body and fender fit. There are several AMC/Jeep J-truck platforms that could be possibilities: the Wagoneer, Grand Wagoneer and Cherokee (FSJ type) in two wheelbase lengths. You'd pick a chassis with a desired wheelbase and powertrain, then begin the major task of mounting the vintage body to that later chassis.
You have a unique situation with an FC170 in that the model is "cab forward" with the steering at the very front. There would be a need to carefully consider the steering column needs and the "dog house" fit to the later chassis. If you're curious about some of the later frame possibilities, I can furnish chassis layout and dimensions for models I've described here.
I recently provided Jeep FC150 and FC170 dimensions in a forum reply to Biggman100 at: http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/462-identifying-a-jeep-fc150-versus-fc170/. See the PDF illustrations of the FC170 frame layout. In realistic terms, the FC Jeep models, despite their unique forward cab and body features, were classic Willys/Jeep derivative. This Kaiser FC170 chassis and powertrain were still years before the J-trucks and more like the existing Willys Pickup and Station Wagon models. The FC150 shares many components with the CJ models of that era.
Moses
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And Holiday Season's Best to everyone who made these Forums shine in 2014! A New Year ahead, wishing you and your families the very best!
Moses
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spdljohn...At the 2014 SEMA Show in November, I attended a press conference for TI Automotive. The group has recently acquired Walbro. I just got a press release with the link to the latest "Performance Pump" catalog. Here is the link, you may find it useful for making a fuel pump choice around the 325 horsepower LS 6.0L V-8:
http://aftermarket.tiautomotive.com/?utm_source=Vocus&utm_medium=PR&utm_campaign=Catalog
At the bottom of the document, you will find a click for downloading the full catalog. There is also a question submission form for determining which pump is best for your application. Check this out...
Moses
Jeep 4.2L, 4.0L and 2.5L AMC Inline Engine Valvetrain Noise and Valve Adjustment
in General Repairs and Tips (See Other Forums for Specific Vehicle Topics)
Posted
You're welcome, Mike...I'd welcome a Jeep diesel swap topic! Whenever you're ready...Happy New Year!
Moses