Moses Ludel
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Posts posted by Moses Ludel
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Since you pressed the joint out of the threads, this is different than unthreading the old joint and pressing a new one (non-thread type) into intact threads. I'm suspect that the material removed will make the fit too loose. Also, depending upon which control arm, the replacement joint may only be available as thread type.
If you want a preliminary sense for the fit, measure the I.D. of the control arm bore as accurately as you can with a caliper. Then measure the new joint before putting your earned money on the parts counter. Unless there is clear evidence that a press-in ball joint is large enough in diameter to make for a tight fit, I would get a "good used" or new control arm and the thread-in type ball joint if available.
Warning: One control arm requires a threaded type ball joint to prevent the steering knuckle from dislodging the ball-joint under load. The other joint may have the option of an unthreaded replacement design. Your parts supply, if they ordered the correct ball-joint(s), should be able to distinguish which joint can be unthreaded on your Dakota application. Again, an unthreaded new joint must fit through the control arm bore tightly!
Moses
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There are two popular Chrysler ball joint socket sizes: 1-59/64" and 2-9/64". In OTC Tools, this is the 8033 (1-59/64") and the 8034 (2-9/64"). The 8033 is essentially a Miller Tools C-3560. The 8034 is essentially a Miller Tools C-3561.
There are other tool suppliers that make Chrysler ball-joint sockets. Some are less costly for the one-time user, although you get what you pay for when it comes to tools...Measure your second generation Dakota pickup ball joint flanges. Let us know which size socket will fit!
Moses
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Let me know how this turns out, Biggman100...As for the Dakota pickup and other traditional Chrysler cars and trucks, many find the threaded A-arms and control arms strange.
Strange or not, that's the OEM approach. For some applications, the aftermarket replacement ball joint (typically the lower joint on many older Chrysler passenger cars) may be unthreaded and a "press-in" type. This is good for one time, as flattening the original control arm threads may grip once but will not offer enough tension for a subsequent ball-joint change. On the magazine's OTC hub puller coverage, I also show the correct "square" socket for the threaded Chrysler ball joints: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Tool-How-to-Using-the-OTC-7394-Hub-Puller.html.
Regarding service information, I have used the factory workshop and service manuals and the traditional professional trade manuals like Motors, Glenn's, Mitchell and Chilton (hardbound professional trade type. I bought my first Motors manual in 1968, and that manual is now bookended by Motors passenger car and truck manuals covering 1926 to 1980. I use these manuals for the forums constantly.
Research for each of my books relied on OEM shop manuals for first generation data and details. My print library is stacked with OEM Jeep, G.M., Ford, Toyota and Harley-Davidson manuals. I seldom work on either the XJ Cherokee or the Dodge Ram 3500 without first consulting the Mopar factory shop manual.
CDs are now available (like my 2005 Ram/Mopar Truck Service Manual), and you can source used OEM manuals and even reprints in some cases. With this said, I do find errors on rare occasions, when one year's data gets translated incorrectly or a torque figure is inaccurate.
For working on your Dakota, I would use the Mopar manual, as I do with my Ram. Good backup for a Jeep, too. An alternative for a shop or even a one-time home project is the Mopar official TechAuthority II subscriptions or short-term "rental" access. Check out the website at: http://www.techauthority.com.
Moses
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If the backside of the flange (side we press the stud from) is accessible for your press, I've used a deep impact socket as a "receiver" for the threaded stud portion. The socket stands on the bed plate or flat bed of the press, it's somewhat of a juggling act to keep the hub flange square until you apply pressure.
This would also work with your C-clamp if the clamp applies sufficient pressure to seat the studs. Make sure the studs seat completely, you should be okay. Try the deep impact socket in place of the tubing...
Moses
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The best way to illustrate this lower ball joint removal is with shop photos. These will help you determine the tools and objectives for this project—and whether you want to tackle it!
These are the "REMOVAL" illustrations.
This is the installation illustration.
Here are the steps involved:
REMOVAL
- Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
- Remove the brake caliper and rotor.
- Disconnect the tie rod (2) from the steering knuckle (4) using special tool C-3894-A (1).
- Separate the upper ball joint (2) from the knuckle (3) using special tool 8677 (1)
- Separate the lower ball joint (3) from the steering knuckle (1) using special tool 8677 (2).
- Remove the steering knuckle.
- Remove the clevis bracket and move the half shaft to the side and support the half shaft out of the way 4X4 only.
NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used on the threaded portions of the tool. This will increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper operation during the removal and installation process.
- Press the ball joint from the lower control arm (3) using special tools C-4212-F (PRESS) (1), C–4212–3 (Driver) (2) and 9654–3 (Receiver) (4).
INSTALLATION and TOOLS REQUIRED
1 - C-4212-F PRESS
2 - 9654-2 RECEIVER
3 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
4 - BALL JOINT
5 - 9654-1 DRIVER
NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used on the threaded portions of the tool. This will increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper operation during the removal and installation process .
- Install the ball joint (4) into the control arm (3) and press in using special tools C-4212-F (press) (1), 9654–1 (Driver) (5) and 9654–2 (Receiver) (2).
- Stake the ball joint flange in four evenly spaced places around the ball joint flange, using a chisel and hammer.
- Remove the support for the half shaft and install into position, then install the clevis bracket. 4X4 only.
- Install the steering knuckle.
- Install the tie rod end into the steering knuckle.
- Install and tighten the half shaft nut to 251 N·m (185 ft. lbs.) (if equipped).
- Install the brake caliper and rotor.
- Check the vehicle ride height.
- Perform a wheel alignment.
These tools are OTC/Miller/SPX, and if you need more information, go to the Miller Tool listing for Chrysler tools. Plug in these numbers in the Part Number search box. Judge whether you can do the job based upon your tool access.
If you have more questions, I'm available...
Moses
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Wow, your comments about thermal coating and welding over the Picklex 20 is intriguing. Welding is a "chemical" and heat process, and the Picklex 20 claim that it will not impact welding (presumably chemistry?) makes this stuff unique...Thanks for sharing, I'll follow up and explore the welding/chemistry side of the product!
Moses
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Wheel bolts or studs are tough material, high tensile that typically snaps before "stretching" or yielding. Replacement studs are intended for the same "interference fit" as the OEM studs. Depending on the flange hardness, the pitch of the stud serrations and the diameter of the stud serrations, you can find a lot of resistance here—and you did!
I have done your approach "in the day" as a field repair or even direct replacement. In the disc brake era, however, it seems easier to use a press for this task. Most of us who do any volume of automotive work have acquired, at the very least, a 20-ton Harbor Freight hydraulic press on sale ($149.99 on today's sales flyer via Email!). The floor press and bed assure complete seating of the stud(s) and eliminates the risk of the stud or nut loosening in service.
Caution: When installing a wheel stud with a press, be sure to back up the flange with a sleeve or similar device to prevent bending the flange while pressing the stud into place!
Granted, this is an involved task with unit hubs and a front axle shaft. In your neck of the woods, from our previous discussions, the axle shaft can be rusted into the splines of the hub, creating its own "nightmare" when removing the unit hub from the axle shaft. Here is an HD video/article I did on the use of an OTC puller, a tool that would be necessary for separating the axle shaft from the unit hub: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Tool-How-to-Using-the-OTC-7394-Hub-Puller.html. Check this out before attempting to remove the unit hub and wheel flange assembly.
Sorry to be the bearer of these tidings, but this is the "new normal" for wheel stud replacement on harder disc brake hub flanges. The good news is way less stress to new threads and less risk of either breaking the stud or stripping the nut and stud threads.
I would suggest replacing the unit hub assembly if the Jeep Grand Cherokee has mileage. Here is an example from 4WD Hardware, the Omix-ADA hub assembly. Note that the assembly is complete with wheel studs, so replacing the unit hub includes what you need as well: http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/Front-Hub-Assembly.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=514&t_pt=5660&t_pn=OAI16705.07#. You can shop around, these unit hubs are very common.
Moses
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Welcome to the forums, CJMall! Your AX15 transmission issue can be added to the AX15 discussion here at the YJ and TJ Jeep Wrangler forum.
I'll jump into this with a quick question...Since 2nd and 4th are on different shift rails and forks, it's uncommon to have the same symptom on both. It is not uncommon, however, to have a restriction at the floorboard or matting if your TJ Wrangler has a lift kit with a "dropped" transfer case.
The dropped transfer case (rear of the skid plate) angles the shift lever and shift tower rearward. The boot, carpet and other obstructions often occur in this configuration, and the two gears affected would be 2nd and 4th. Check this if you do have a dropped transfer case/skid plate, or in any case, make sure there is no other obstruction to the shift lever.
Beyond this, there is a lengthy discussion right here at this Jeep YJ and TJ Wrangler forum on the AX15 and rebuild quirks. You'll find this of interest, CJMall. Also, if you're trying to get a better visual on the AX15 internal mechanisms, I have a 209-illustration article at the magazine on step-by-step rebuilding of an AX15 transmission.
There are many of us interested in helping you solve this problem. This is a start, we can go from here...
Moses
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Sounds like the pedal switch is okay. The adjustment of the pedal and switch position determines when the switch opens and closes. Presume you checked this, JJ. It's easy to do by simply watching the brake (tail) lamps apply as the pedal depresses. The pedal often sags with age, sometimes causing the switch to stay open, when that occurs, the brake lights would be on. Check this if necessary.
As for the one-way vacuum check valve, when you disconnected the vacuum hose at the cruise control end, you should hear or feel suction from the intake manifold. This was correct...However, it only tested the "open" direction of the vacuum check valve.
The check valve must also hold that vacuum in the circuit when manifold vacuum drops. A quick way to test this with the engine running would be with your vacuum gauge attached at that same point as before. With the engine idling, you will get that 18-21 in/hg vacuum you're used to seeing.
Make sure the vacuum gauge seals properly, then shut off the engine. While vacuum at the manifold will drop to zero, vacuum in the circuit between the cruise servo and the one-way check valve should remain steady—to whatever vacuum setting the one-way check valve normally holds.
Let us know what your check valve holds. It must be high enough to provide adequate vacuum for the cruise and the heater-A/C vent controls. Test vacuum to the reservoir with the hand pump attached to the intake manifold tubing elbow—as I described earlier.
We'll go from there...
Moses
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Well, the dash connector was an issue, so replacing it was worthwhile, great that you solder, JJ_Jeep, these are resourceful skills that pay off! Sounds like a diagnostic check of the Air Bag system would be wise, for sure.
On the cruise control issue, you were at the "T" for the cruise unit. Check the reservoir vacuum seal from that same "T" to the bulb/reservoir at the front of the Jeep. A quick check for the entire system can be performed from the engine vacuum line that attaches at the intake manifold. Trace from the cruise to that elbow with the vacuum tube.
Hook up your vacuum gauge/pump there, and pump down vacuum. The entire system should hold vacuum. If not, the leak is somewhere between the intake manifold and the reservoir. Possible bleed-offs or leaks from that circuit would be the heater and A/C vent controls, the cruise vacuum circuit, the one-way check valve for this vacuum circuit and the reservoir bulb itself.
If you're curious about the trouble areas for the cruise control, this is the "factory" approach to a defective speed control system:
If a road test verifies a system problem and the speedometer operates properly, check for:
- A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) If a DTC exists, conduct tests per the Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures MDS2.
- A misadjusted brake (stop) lamp switch. This could also cause an intermittent problem.
- Loose, damaged or corroded electrical connections at the servo. Corrosion should be removed from electrical terminals and a light coating of Mopar MultiPurpose Grease, or equivalent, applied.
- Leaking vacuum reservoir.
- Loose or leaking vacuum hoses or connections.
- Defective one-way vacuum check valve.
- Secure attachment of both ends of the speed control servo cable.
- Smooth operation of throttle linkage and throttle body air valve.
- Failed speed control servo. Do the servo vacuum test.
As you know, I like to start with the easiest prospects first before parts replacing! Check for a vacuum leak, either tubing or the reservoir bulb itself, each can be confirmed with your nifty new vacuum pump tester. Check out the brake light switch function and the switch point for the brake lamp switch. Make sure you do have electrical current, try to find that fuse circuit, and if you can't find it readily, let me know, I'll provide information.
I can also provide more information on each of the systems mentioned. A vacuum check at the cruise servo can confirm the "one-way check valve" function as well as the speed control servo condition. Check vacuum at the "T" near the cruise servo in all three directions:
1) Cruise servo (only) direction as you did.
2) Check the combined servo and check valve*, using the "T" end facing the reservoir.
3) Check the "T" end to the reservoir to isolate and test the reservoir tube and reservoir bulb only.
4) If the reservoir feed line leaks down, isolate the reservoir itself and vacuum test it.
*The check valve is an inexpensive item. This trouble spot traps the manifold-to-reservoir air in the system and prevents vacuum fluctuation. It is a simple one-way valve located between the manifold and the first junction of the cruise and heater-A/C vacuum circuit. The check valve helps stabilize vacuum, otherwise manifold vacuum fluctuates widely. Visualize the vacuum "trapped" between the reservoir and check valve, with the recharge of vacuum coming from the manifold source.
Let's look for a simple fix before parts replacing, JJ. From my article, you can see how a split in the vacuum tube from the reservoir to the cruise "T" was enough to keep the XJ Cherokee's cruise and vents from working when the engine was under throttle. A defective check valve would have a similar effect.
Moses
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Interesting...So, this is a rust converter and "paint" in itself. How resistant is the surface to rust after curing, and how long does that prevent the formation of new rust?
If you decide to paint the surface, does the POR15 need blasting? What is the suggested use or "value" for this product, is it simply an alternative to blasting away rust? Sounds like it would dramatically affect chemistry for any welding.
Thanks for researching and providing the link, biggman100!
Moses
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Biggman100...I'm not sure whether POR15 is intended as a "paint" or strictly as a rust converter. If a converter only, it would require paint afterward. Worth exploring in either case.
As for why OEMs don't thermal coat frames, I think cost is the issue. This is a labor/time consuming process (could be robotized, I'm sure), and the equipment and materials would be costly. Seems reserved for specialty applications in aircraft, space and naval environments.
Automotive manufacturers have turned to aluminum castings and structural components, and frames are now hydro-formed and have specialized metallurgy. Not sure whether these new frame forming processes and the accompanying metallurgy have more resistance to rust. It would be interesting to explore whether there are any automotive applications of thermal coatings.
Moses
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Many say that blast, clean, prime and paint make the best sense. Eastwood Company has an arsenal of anti-rust tools, including POR15 and other agents that neutralize rust and even provide a paintable surface. That might make sense in your area, too.
I would avoid heavy painting, as that's the same issue as powder coating. The only vehicle I've owned with rust came from Chicago, it was an early '80s CJ-5 Jeep that became both a magazine project and included in my Jeep Owner's Bible. Louie Russo, a competent body and fender expert at San Diego did the rust repair, and it was a chore. The vehicle had only minor looking exfoliation at a small corner of the driver's tub side section. That rusty paint turned out to be a sheet metal section that needed cutting out and replacing. Scary stuff that salt rust. I'm sorry your roads are salted, biggman100!
Moses
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Have an insight to share about powder coating. In the '80s, I built my first Land Cruiser FJ40 project vehicle for OFF-ROAD Magazine. In the process, I began using powder coating on various restoration pieces, as Toyota was horrible in its lack of galvanizing on the FJ40s, and this one, fortunately, was a '76 from the West, essentially rust-free, and I wanted to keep it that way.
I became enchanted with the powder coating process, which at that time was increasing in popularity and finding its way into many aftermarket automotive parts. In the process of exploring other anti-rust processes for a magazine article, I paid a visit to the National City shipyards. At one shop, a well-informed supervisor told me flatly that they had stopped using powder coating on ship railings and decking. As he explained, powder coat is rigid and thick enough that you will not see the usual "exfoliation" that occurs when rust grows from the inside outward.
From their experience, he advised against using powder coating on vehicle frames in areas of the country where there is high humidity, salt air or salted roads. The rust that can form on the inside will be invisible until, like the ship railings that collapsed unexpectedly, rust has completely eroded the metal, leaving nothing but the powder coat. I took his advice and abandoned my enthusiasm for powder coating. It does have its place, for sure, but not on ship railings, decks or vehicle frames subjected to salted roads...Following that discussion, which I shared with the readership, I continued to paint my vehicle frames. Inspect the inside of your frame rails often, whether powder coated or not.
During that period, I installed a set of headers on the small-block Chevy V-8 (383 stroker motor) that went into the 'Cruiser. The chrome was poor and when I asked around, the metal/flame spray process came up. I had the headers blasted and flame sprayed with aluminum, which is a very interesting material and process. Flame sprayed onto steel tubing and flanges, the aluminum quickly dissipates heat. In addition to preventing rust as a coating, aluminum flame spraying can tolerate scratches on the surface. The material creates a healing reaction around the scratch, which helps prevent rust formation.
For headers, especially on a racing engine that requires service while hot (visualize changing spark plugs in the pits), the aluminum flame spray works very well, cooling down the surface of the headers rapidly. (My most memorable automotive related burns were from headers and exhaust manifolds or header pipes.) What doesn't work well is the insulating header or exhaust pipe heat wrap that traps condensation and heat, causing the pipes to rust through. The end result is a leak much like the rust-through on a powder coated frame exposed to salted roads—from the inside and hidden from view.
Here is a link on flame spraying and other "thermal coatings": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_spraying. As a Coast Guard trained diver, you'll also like this story, biggman100: http://www.metalize.net/content/flame-sprayed-aluminum-coatings. The article is about undersea structures, and the punch line regarding flame spray aluminum is, "FSA coatings have proved that they offer an excellent alternative for protecting subsea components, the major advantage being that the coating acts as both a tough barrier coating and a sacrificial anode." The "sacrificial anode" is part of that healing and protective ability I described.
Moses
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Biggman100, I've joined RareCJ8 and his trailer on the trail, and it is purpose built for ground clearance. The trailer, like the CJ-8, is a "rock crawler", and this trailer gets toted into rough, rocky country. Not sure whether you subject vehicles and trailers to challenges like this in the Northeast. RareCJ8's Scrambler lives a rugged life out here—and so does the trailer!
That said, the track width on the trailer is wide, which helps with cornering stability and side-slope center of gravity, a must for the places RareCJ8 goes. Also, hitch design is everything in this driving environment, and a conventional ball hitch can, of itself, cause a trailer to flip over on rocky, off-camber terrain.
Moses
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The truck sounds safe and drivable, you've taken all of the safety concerns into account, including air bags. If square on a four-wheel alignment, the truck's issues narrow down to the radiator and core support, the ability and means for mounting a winch bumper, and keeping the truck cosmetically square.
Biggman100...I did notice the rust on the frame horn and sized it up as less than you typically see in salted road, Rust Belt regions. Obviously, there's a life limit to your vehicles, including the frames that eventually rust away with the bodies. (Gee, a perpetual market for new trucks!) RareCJ8 and I are spoiled, we share stories about places at semi-arid Nevada where 100-year-old car frames and bodies rest peacefully in the sagebrush, a coating of harmless surface rust for patina.
I don't think the crush in the frame horn is going anywhere, and if you can be sure of the winch mount's integrity and "customize" its fit at that crushed frame horn, this should work. Beefing the frame up at the damaged area would be good insurance. The priorities are safe tracking, steering and brakes, maintaining wheel alignment, and safety for all occupants—which you address.
Moses
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BA...Your Scrambler's 4.2L is an '83, and the main metering jet size is 2.35mm or 0.092". On the head of your good jet, you might see the number stamped into the jet. Regardless, this is the main metering jet size by measurement. There are two model carburetors: 8383 and 8384. Both use this size main jet size.
As for getting out the old jet, you can try a square easy-out. These are tapered, square shaped and often will work where the common "screw" type does not. Brass is tricky, as you've discovered, but you haven't ruined the body, so you're still in the game for rebuilding this carburetor. The replacement jet should not be expensive and can be shipped inexpensively by Priority Mail.
Personally, I would hang onto this project unless the body is shot, which it is not. Look for a square extractor like I describe that will fit into an orifice of 0.092". With care, you can even drill the jet out slightly. Use the good jet for judging what size drill bit diameter will not damage the threads in any way, and just drill through the jet, not into the body.
Note: A machine shop would likely drill the jet to just inside the threads. The jet's head would be remove carefully with a larger bit, without contacting the carburetor body. Using an extractor at that point would remove the remaining thread material while carefully avoiding damage to the casting's threads. With tension relieved, the threads would come out easily. If you don't feel comfortable trying this, don't try it: Concentrate on the square extractor approach, maybe drilling off just the head of the jet first. Use care, this is still a viable carburetor for rebuilding!
Do you need to remove these jets for rebuilding? Your instincts were right: Not always. Yes, you can get the carburetor dip more readily into the circuits with the jet bores open, but that's not essential. With care, a couple of dips and thorough rinsing, plus use of compressed air after the final rinse, and you should have a clean carburetor. The 0.092" orifices are plenty for carburetor cleaner to move through the passageways during the dip.
The MSD Atomic EFI is a nice setup, however, it's not 50-State legal yet. If emission inspection is an issue, you'll need to wait on this one. In real world terms, Dan Hiney got passing tailpipe readings by dialing in the Atomic EFI, it simply does not have the California E.O. number at this point.
Mopar's system is outstanding. It's off-the-shelf Chrysler/Jeep parts for a stock 4.0L, simply made to fit the 4.2L block. This "kit" has been out since the mid-'90s in two forms: Two-rail EFI (early, based on '94-'95 YJ Wrangler) and single-rail ('97-up version TJ). Either type works very well, and at the magazine articles and 4.6L stroker build videos, the Mopar EFI/MPI topic is frequent.
A key advantage of the Mopar MPI (multi-port FI) is that the injectors are at each cylinder port. This means even fuel-and-air ratios per cylinder, a tremendous improvement over a centrally mounted carburetor or even TBI. The outer cylinders on an inline six have difficulty drawing the same volume of air/fuel from a central point. MPI eliminates this stigma by delivering the same fuel mixture and volume at every cylinder. Though costlier, the Mopar system offers a large performance and fuel efficiency gain, OEM parts for service, and even some OEM diagnostics with minor tuning capability.
Moses
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Good points, all...I've always used the air strap at commercial shops. The quick release straps are in catalogs, sounds like "quick" release better be "quick enough"! Always begin the release as soon as the beads begin to seal air and there is an indication that the tire will accept air and continue to inflate.
Thanks for the comments about the bead breaker, too. There are things we buy from Harbor Freight that work really well, like the Pittsburgh impact sockets and such, but sometimes you need to step up and find the commercial grade product elsewhere. Also, it's not uncommon to find that Harbor Freight products like the bead breaker can be a "place to start", that for the price, if you can upgrade a tool like your brother has done, it works. When high volume use is the plan, I opt for the commercial grade product in the first place.
Moses
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That sounds feasible, the bumper lift, though it would be limited to vehicles that have a very stout and flat bumper—without a plastic cover like so many cars and SUVs have today...This really is worth exploring! A phone call to that Chevron Station warranted?
Moses
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From your photo, it appears that the compressed frame section collapsed in the designed "crush zone". Like the frame and alignment shops, I agree that this is neither structurally nor dynamically a problem for the suspension or front power system. However, I see your point very clearly about the need for radiator and shroud alignment and adding an aftermarket front bumper.
From what you describe, biggman100, the front bumper "looks" like it's in the right position, though that's surprising with the crush at the frame horn. Alignment of the bumper does have some latitude with the bumper bracket slots.
In any case, is there an air bag system on the truck? Do you need to be concerned about air bag sensors being damaged? If not, there are a few options:
1) Pull the frame horn back to its original position as closely as possible and reinforce the reshaped section. The frame horn would then have the original damage plus the pull to contend with, which does impact the integrity of the metal. In the trade, the term is "memory", suggesting that the horn would readily collapsed to the crushed position with any impact or force—including an odd-angle winch pull. For that reason, even if the horn gets tugged to shape, I would create a reinforcement repair patch to put over the area, approximately the thickness of the frame horn. My welds would be MIG (most likely, using ER70S-6 0.035" wire) or TIG (unlikely, requires spotlessly clean, oxidation free metal). I would stitch weld or make a diamond or fish plate patch to avoid risk of linear stress points and tearing of the metal alongside the welds.
2) If the metal, despite being crushed, is stable and aligned closely enough, you could modify the planned winch-mount bumper creatively at its mounting bracket on this side. You would "square-up" the bumper with the body at the bent frame horn's bumper bracket...The crushed frame horn is one compression and would likely stay put, especially with the hefty winch bumper acting as a forward "cross-member". By doing this, the likelihood of the frame horn deforming further, or wanting to pull forward, would be no greater than the amount of force the frame shop claims is necessary to "pull" that horn straight.
In many ways, frame material is similar to other plate or even sheet steel. Imagine a piece of sheet metal being crushed, then either pulled straight or heated and pulled straight. In either case, the metal at this point is weaker than when originally formed or rolled. We know from experience that if we bend and work sheet metal back and forth, it quickly breaks down, "fatigues" and shears.
Closer to home, another example of this would be an early Jeep MB or CJ Jeep frame that was flexible C-channel and had riveted cross members. We considered these frames part of the "suspension", as they twisted substantially from end to end. Even the AMC era CJ frames flexed considerably. I once held the end of a new, bare CJ-7 frame while Jon Compton at Border Parts held the other end: We were able to twist that frame nearly a foot end-to-end.
Vintage Jeep 4x4s that have been "trail beaten hard and put away wet" almost always exhibit signs of frame cracking or repairs. This trend lasted through the 1975 CJs. Beginning in 1976, Jeep began building stiffer frames, fully welded and boxed, and frame survival got much better...
Modern vehicles, including the Jeep Wranglers and your Dakota, do have more rigid frames. The new strategy is a rigid frame with all handling and tuning in the suspension members and steering system. That said, your truck has stout frame horn material that took a good shot, collapsed, and would be happy to stay there. If possible, you might build a relocation bracket for the radiator to restore the core support location. This should not take much effort unless the crush in the frame horn creates an obstruction.
We can discuss this further, including details on a proper patch reinforcement, relocation brackets, welding technique and such. Your photo is helpful, I "got the visual" immediately.
Moses
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Glad we have wives understanding enough to stick around...You, biggman100 and I apply a good deal of time to our automotive subjects! Ah, but think of the expense we've saved our households by not farming out automotive repairs and by doing our own troubleshooting!
Moses
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Yea, one down, just the Air Bag light to go! Glad this worked out, JJ_Jeep...
Moses
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The airbag system is a safety issue. The consequences of a malfunctioning bag or the unexpected deployment of a bag is a serious matter, and the mere thought makes us nervous. Since the Air Bag system can be scanned, that would be a consideration. There are other possibilities, but a specific air bag light signal is a concern.
I recently did two repairs on the '99 XJ Cherokee, one related to instrumentation/gauges, the other related to the heater and A/C vent controls. The instrumentation issue was wiring behind the panel and plug connections. For both of these malfunctions, there were factory TSBs from Chrysler, and the instrument panel issue was common to the 1998/99 era XJ Cherokee and the TJ Wrangler.
I mention this because on my XJ, the Air Bag light was part of that malfunction. See the how-to repair at the magazine: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-XJ-Cherokee-Erratic-Gauges-Fix.html. I bring this up because your Air Bag issue could be a plug connection issue at the panel. The simplest fix I found online is to unplug and plug the panel at its connectors. When this does not suffice, the repair in the article was my solution. Check this out, JJ, it's certainly a possibility. I'd try the unplug/plug approach first, changing out of the plug gets involved. Always disconnect the battery negative cable with this kind of work.
The other TSB was about actuator motors for the heater and A/C vents. I covered this quite thoroughly in another article: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/How-to-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-Air-Conditioning-Fix.html. This one got interesting. As it turned out, the actuators were just fine (bought a vacuum motor beforehand, now have a spare), but the vacuum circuits were not. See this article, as your TJ has a similar system, and my quick troubleshooting technique for a full circuit vacuum check works well. The A/C vents, cruise control and other circuits all depend upon the vacuum reservoir behind the front bumper. You'll see the relationship at the article. As a point of interest, the vacuum leak was in damaged tubing not far from the battery box.
The vacuum circuit leak test will require a hand vacuum pump, which is a valuable diagnostic/troubleshooting asset. Follow my guideline, you have a similar system and access to the vacuum tube that attaches at the intake manifold. The cruise control apply vacuum can also be tested with your vacuum gauge, using the running engine as a vacuum source.
So, the Air Bag light could be just that: A wacky Air Bag light from poor instrument panel connections. Or, you could have more going on...We're back to the need for a diagnostic scan tool that covers powertrain, ABS and, yes, Air Bags!
Moses
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BA, sorry to hear about the metering jet, which is not available in a kit and would be difficult to locate as an individual part. If that jet is still securely in its threads, and if the bore and flute of the jet is not distorted (just the screw slot is twisted up), leave the jet in position. Smooth out the distorted brass screw slot material so it will not slough into the bore or elsewhere in the passageways. You'll need to make sure there is no debris in the fuel circuit for the jet: Use compressed air or a vacuum, or both.
Ironically, one of the least risky ways to loosen a brass jet is with an impact screwdriver. Without sounding like a shill for Harbor Freight once more, they happen to have an inexpensive driver, commonly used on motorcycle case screws that are notorious for stripping out their heads, especially the Phillips variety. Here is the example: http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html.
The impact screwdriver bit's shank must be long enough to clear the float bowl body. This tool drives downward while rotating at the same time. Downward pressure results in a slight relief of the screw (jet in your case) tension in its threads while rotational force applies simultaneously—ingenious, really. There's no guarantee that this would prevent twisting the soft brass slot out, but you might have a better chance at success. If you try this, experiment with various levels of hammer force, beginning with the lightest and finding the one that just works. The tool is reversible for removing or tightening fasteners, and it accepts sockets, too. In this jet's case, sounds best to leave well enough alone if you can, you may not be able to find a replacement jet readily.
The ding atop the float should not affect anything, as long as the float can be set accurately for height and drop. The concern with the float adjustment is strictly the position of the needle in its seat with the float at various positions. From what you describe, as long as the float can float in gasoline and will not leak, it can move the needle in and out of the seat and set the fuel height properly in the fuel bowl. Talking about the replaceable seat, if you want to avoid brass screw slot issues here, make sure you to use a screwdriver big enough to fill the slot's width and shoulders. This will be least likely to damage the new seat during installation.
I like the Mopar and Echlin kits for both their quality and the details in the instructions. If the Walker parts look decent, and the instructions are sufficient (we can supplement from my library if necessary), you should be okay.
If you can, share/attach a photo of the damaged jet, I'd like to assess its condition.
Moses
Issues Shifting to 2nd and 4th on Rebuilt AX15
in Jeep® YJ Wrangler, TJ Wrangler and LJ Wrangler
Posted
We had a great discussion about AX15 transmission oil at this forum topic: http://www.4wdmechanix.com/forums/topic/47-ax15-transmission-gear-oil/.
This should answer some questions...Open for more if necessary...
Moses