Moses Ludel
-
Posts
4,450 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Store
Articles
Gallery
Posts posted by Moses Ludel
-
-
AusJeep, thanks for joining us at the forums! I became aware of your RHD switch positions when looking for LHD switches. Your front door switches are opposite to our U.S. '99 XJ Cherokee.
Below, you'll find a PDF from the Mopar parts catalog. Note the RHD switches versus LHD. The model codes describe RHD, LHD, 2WD, 4WD, 2-door and 4-door. The switch listings describe the combinations of power options. Zoom into this document for a closer read and view.
1999 XJ Cherokee Door Switches.pdf
For a RHD model, you should need a left front door switch/module, which should have the relay for master circuits covering the windows and door locks. The article at the magazine provides further details, the URL link to the magazine article is in the postings above. Just see your Jeep as the mirror image of a LHD model. If your symptoms mimic my Jeep, you likely need the switch for your left front door, the heftier one with built-in module.
Follow the troubleshooting approach I describe...If you narrow the switch to the left front door, I'm curious about the pricing at Australia. The RHD (master module) window switch is quite expensive at the U.S. I'm trusting it's much less costly in a part of the world where there are many RHD models!
If you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Unless there is a wiring or fuse issue, these switches generally "cure" the problems you're experiencing. Please confirm, I share the troubleshooting details at the magazine article. I would comment that on our Jeep, changing the right front door switch has been a lasting fix since. The driver's door switch still works okay.
Moses
-
Very helpful to 2.5L TBI Jeep owners, Josh! If you do end up "restoring" the regulator screw, make note of what keeps the screw from backing out. It may be regulator spring pressure...I have a safeguard idea: Consider placing a lock nut on the screw, outboard of the bowl. Once you adjust pressure to spec, you can tighten that nut to assure that the screw will not back off.
Also, just another idea: Consider use a copper sealing washer between the lock nut and bowl if there is fuel in the bowl. This will provide the "leak proof seal" you need. There should be a copper washer available with the correct I.D. for your bowl adjuster screw...
Moses
-
This sounds promising. 16-17 PSI would likely run okay, though a bit on the high side as you share. If you can drop it to 14-15 PSI, all the better! You've worked your way through a lot of "stuff". The regulator spring findings and return to the heavier spring should be a big help and insight for others. The use of the pressure gauge tester, in the long run, is a real money saver. It narrowed down your trouble spots.
Good to check the return flow to the tank, just as a precautionary. Vacuum line renewal can make subtle differences in tune and performance with EFI...
You're closing the gap, Josh...Weather permitting, you'll have a reliable Jeep shortly. This exchange should prove helpful to many other Jeep Wrangler and XJ Cherokee/MJ Comanche owners with pre-1991 2.5L models!
Waiting for the good news...
Moses
-
CasualMechanic...Thanks for confirming the parts difference with these very useful photos. This is dramatic, the Renix flywheel and the Chrysler MPI flywheel each use a different "pulse" approach. The parts books were correct this time!
From your quality photos, the MPI flywheel looks to be in good condition. True?
Moses
-
Josh...Factory manual refers to the injector brace ("retainer") screws as "tighten retainer screws". Similarly the 3 regulator bowl screws are "tighten screws". No torque specs, use good judgment, these screws should be securely tightened without stripping threads on the screws or pot-metal TBI parts. Do not over-tighten and warp parts, either. A good grip on a screwdriver with a good tip, make the screws very "snug"...Make sense? TBI to manifold mounting nuts are 16 ft.-lbs.
I'm looking forward to accurate fuel pressure readings. Not sure what you want to do about the regulator adjuster screw. You may need to "make" an adjuster screw. If so, Fastenal and others have high tensile screws with allen heads. (Lowe's has even been known to provide some of these, at least Grade 5 U.S. or Metric 8.)
If you can find the right length adjuster screw and access the allen head with a hex allen wrench, that would work. Be very careful removing the sawed off adjuster screw. If you strip the threads of the regulator bowl bottom, you'll be looking for a bowl. Also, make note of any seal here, if the design calls for fuel around the screw, make sure you take that into account and seal it properly.
To save time in the cold weather, here is one more PDF of service procedures. Make certain that all of the parts in the diagrams are present in your TBI unit when you take it apart. Zoom into the illustrations for details. This will help prevent overlooking missing parts:
Moses
-
Thanks much for your kudos...You know, most of us, surely the motor heads, have similar dreams and interests. I'm a motorcycle guy, too. Among my seven books with Bentley Publishers is the Harley-Davidson Evolution V-Twin Owner's Bible. We've owned a Honda Goldwing and a BMW LT model. My most memorable road bikes, however, were the three BSAs from the day, a Lightning 650, a Rocket 3 750 triple and a 441 Victor Special, each 1969 models by sheer coincidence. Our youngest son owned a contemporary 600 Yamaha crotch rocket a few years ago, and I must admit it felt nimbler than those iconic Brit bikes.
Like the trailer downsizing, I've also downsized from behemoth motorcycles. My latest and most exciting prospect is the XR650R Honda dirt bike (see the photos at these forums), a dual-sport conversion candidate more at home winning the Baja 1000 when in all-out racing form. (Mine is relatively stock, basically "uncorked", which will be dependable.) To digress further, we live at northern Nevada, and over 80% of the state is public land. Our base is the high desert east of Reno, so finding a place to ride is of no concern. The dual-sport advantage is the 20% riding I'll do on the asphalt. The balance will be dirt within view of wild horses.
I've ridden dirt since the 441 Victor (a miserable configuration by modern dirt bike standards but a great "teacher"), more seriously since the '80s when my OFF-ROAD Magazine editor at the time, Rick Sieman, felt it necessary for the two of us to ride fast in the high desert of Antelope Valley. At the time, Rick was #1 veteran AMA plate in the country and Dirt Bike Senior/Founding Editor. Surviving that day of riding without falling off the Husqvarna, a race-prepped 2-stroke bike, left me convinced that I had a place on the dirt. I'd ridden asphalt on two wheels since my Nevada scooter license days with a Cushman, at the ripe age of 14, now a mere 50 years ago. Modern dirt bike riding was the missing piece...Fast forward to the present, one of my brothers-in-law sums it up for us as, "An 18-year-old brain in a 64 year old body."
Anyway, I too share your belief that our Ram 3500 single drive rear wheel trucks can be the last purchase of a lifetime, and that's even assuming that we'll live to a ripe old age! You've got it about the 16K pound tow package, essentially the death knell for a one-ton pickup. Why this approach gets marketed so much, I have no idea. The only stock transmission in this class that might survive under these tow loads would be an Allison. (I have seen an article on converting our trucks to an Allison, not such a bad idea in general.) Like you have observed, these monster trailers need a medium to heavy duty truck chassis to pull them, albeit the recent class of haulers in the Peterbilt and I-H big truck powertrain capacities. We have friends (Bill and Rachel Burke of Four-Wheeling America) who travel and have lived within a Freightliner mounted, custom built motorhome, pretty smart in my view! Bill pulls an enclosed trailer with his Harley-Davidson and a Land Rover Defender on board.
So, objectively, your Ram could survive the Keystone for a year or so with the right transmission. I would certainly get a pyrometer for the Cummins engine and use it like a temperature gauge while towing. I just addressed this at the magazine coverage of a Hypertech tuning package for our Ram. I plan to install a pyrometer before doing any serious trailering. As I shared in the earlier response, "serious" means a 7500# fully loaded trailer. My truck's curb weight is over 9000#, that's already a GVCW of close to 17,000 pounds with people and a couple of Starbucks coffee drinks on board. Oh, and the XR650R, I too consider a motorcycle an appendage for any planned travel. (Yuma, AZ in the winter? What the hell would I do there without a dirt motorcycle? Play pinochle? Hardly!) The XR650R in full dual-sport trim will weigh under 320 pounds.
Let us know what transmission you chose and why. I do believe the big-league builders can supply a unit that could hold up to our "last vehicle" expectation (if you dump the 16K pound Keystone). Given the cost of a new replacement vehicle, even the ATS or BD unit falls way below the typical down payment for a shiny new rig. I'm very pleased with the '05 truck and am willing to upgrade its shortcomings. You can see the current upgrades at the magazine, I'm continually making a "keeper" out of it...Of course, the lift kit is optional, certainly not a necessity—just ask my wife!
Moses
-
Great idea, just keep an eye on the load, hard to do from within the cab! Are you running synthetic rope? We've all heard horror stories about snapping winch hooks and wire cable leads: the hook flying back through the windshield and such...Rope has changed that dynamic, fortunately...
-
Hi, Kazu...Thanks for joining the forums and discussion! I'd like more information on your ZJ Grand Cherokee ball joint issue. It would be a pleasure to comment back. Please furnish more details.
Thanks!
Moses
-
We need to pay more attention to Australia. They have a lot going on. Recently watched the 'Discovery Atlas' series, and Australia is very much on the map. The coastline edge is 23K miles when measured, the population is an enviable 22.68M, the outback is forever! 140 distinct nationalities and ethnic groups get along there...and they can come up with dual-voltage meters and ARB Air Lockers...Yea, Australia!
-
Well, that's very cool! From Down Under, no less...When you get it, share how you're routing the wiring and feeds...Thanks!
Moses
-
Very good comment, Biggman100. Most pitman arms and sector shafts are indexed with a "tooth flat" or similar method, but some, especially older steering gears, do not always have that provision. Sometimes, there are multiple notches, and the pitman might fit the sector splines in more than one position.
Critical is that the steering gear is on its precise center position when the front wheels and tires point straight ahead. Some of this is accomplished with steering linkage adjustment, especially on IFS vehicles with an idler arm and steering center link.
Regarding your suggestion that the steering gear get locked in position with the steering column lock, I have a concern here. If the installer torques the pitman nut with full force against the column lock, damage to the lock mechanism can occur. The safest bet is to index the pitman in the straight forward position and mark the steering sector shaft with a yellow "parts marking" pen, which you can get from NAPA and other sources.
If the gear gets off center during work performed, you can gently turn the gear from left to right extremes (do not put pressure on the gear at the steering extremes, or the gear can become damaged) and carefully count the turns. Divide the lock-to-lock turns by 2, then turn the steering wheel and sector shaft back to center by rotating the steering wheel from either extreme to center (one-half the total lock-to-lock turns). This should be very close to your original position if the front wheels point straight ahead.
Never "center" the steering by repositioning the steering wheel on the steering shaft—unless the steering wheel is already off-center with the steering gear from earlier, improper work performed on the vehicle. Always use the steering gear's actual midpoint or center position as a guide and reference point for front wheel and steering wheel alignment.
Always center the steering wheel by first placing the steering gear in its center/straight ahead position. Then place the steering wheel onto the steering shaft, aligned for straight ahead...There may be an index point for the steering wheel-to-steering shaft. Some systems have a notch or other means for placing the steering wheel on the shaft correctly. With the steering wheel on the steering shaft correctly, look at the steering linkage to determine whether slight steering wheel centering, with the front wheels aligned and pointed straight ahead, can be accomplished with the steering linkage adjuster sleeves.
In my original post, point #6 emphasized that the pitman arm needs to be near the center position of the steering gear when torqueing the nut into place. When I'm rebuilding a steering gear, I hold the pitman arm in a soft jawed vise (with the gear suspended) and torque the nut. All force goes into the pitman arm and not against the steering gear internal components.
If the steering gear is on the vehicle, I set the wheels straight ahead with the pitman and nut in place but not torqued completely. Making sure the front wheels stay forward with the vehicle's weight on them, I torque the pitman nut to specification without the arm moving the steering gear to either extreme. Like the steering column lock, the gear can become damaged by forcing its internal ball nut to either extreme.
When you have a very accurate air wrench/gun and know its torque settings, it is often easier to use the air gun to tighten the pitman nut, then verify torque with your torque wrench as I describe.
Moses
-
Glad the diagram helped, it was a rough sketch, for sure! You're on the right track with the marine/RV applications and dual voltmeters, quite a cool idea, actually! Please share what you end up doing here, some pics of the install would be great!
I like the idea of a push button spot check; however, you won't get a continuous voltage readout, and that could be an issue if the auxiliary battery drains down unexpectedly between "button checks". A continuous, Key-On reading would be passive and always within your quick glance...
Moses
-
Exciting development, the pressure gauge is telling us something! Interesting that the fuel shot out of the port but the gauge reads zero. Something is "bleeding off" the pressure or there is no "column" of fuel in the system. This could be a mechanical issue with the fuel regulation and/or passageways, either not adjusting pressure properly or bleeding fuel off and redirecting it to the tank. The latter would explain why there is fuel spurting from the port but no pressure.
The regulator must hold the pressure at the TBI unit, enough pressure and volume to provide a continuous, 14-15 PSI flow of fuel to the engine. By design, any excess pressure/volume simply redirects to the return line. When not restricted, the return line is an immediate bleed. The return line has no backpressure, and the fuel simply runs back into the tank.
You're on the right track. Either the fuel gets rerouted when the plug is in place (pressure builds) or there is no pressure, as you suspect. I would still take a quick read on the pressure line coming into the TBI from the fuel pump to establish a baseline/reading for the fuel supply pressure. I would check the supply pressure two ways: 1) connect the line directly to the gauge, bypassing the TBI unit altogether, and 2) make a "T" into the TBI and to the gauge. If #1 is a success story (showing a nice, continual pressure reading on spec) but #2 is not (pressure drops when fuel moves into the TBI unit), then the pressure regulator is defective and returning all fuel to the return line, which drops the fuel pressure to "0". If that is the case, there's not enough fuel to run the engine...Make sense?
If the incoming fuel pressure by itself (#1 test) is erratic, there's something preventing tank fuel from reaching the TBI unit under pressure. This could be a pressure or supply problem (unlikely the pump, as you installed a new fuel pump that presumably works well) or an obstruction in the fuel supply between the pickup point for the fuel pump and the TBI unit. A restriction could be anything from a clogged fuel filter to a kink or packed debris in the supply line, a clogged pickup in the tank, or even a vacuum/tank pressure issue caused by the evaporative emission system (unlikely but possible if someone has tampered with the EVAP hoses or there is a defective EVAP canister). You've ruled out a lot of these possibilities, they're still worth mentioning.
Note: EVAP system issues were highly prevalent with carbureted engines and their low fuel pump pressures; however, this is near impossible with high volume/pressure submersible fuel pumps. Normally, I would not suspect the EVAP on a TBI system and would take that system into account only if you cannot pass an emission tailpipe test or if you smell gas fumes with the engine shut off.
Restricted fuel flow will not impact pressure, but it will get a "0" reading if no fuel is moving into the fuel gauge. Again, you need both pressure and fuel volume from the tank to the TBI.
This is all very taxing when working outside in freezing weather, that's why the pressure tests help so much. You can more quickly isolate the trouble area. Josh, you'll be an "expert" on 2.5L TBI before this is over, and your Jeep will be reliable and predictable. Sorry that you have to perform this work in the freezing weather...
Moses
-
Really like the idea of a voltmeter read on the auxiliary battery. You do not want it on continually with the key off, though. (You don't want to drain that battery with a voltmeter that's on continuously.) Since you're using mechanical separation of the two batteries, it's easy to isolate the voltage reading for the second/auxiliary battery.
I suggest using a key-on relay (small Bosch type) to simply switch on the voltmeter for the auxiliary battery. You can use the Bosch relay as an interruption switch (simply a break in one of the wires to the voltmeter in this case). Since the voltmeter just requires voltage and not amperage, all of this can be done with reasonably light gauge wire. Here's a drawing I quickly cooked up for the circuit I'm describing. Let me know whether this works for your aims:
See the footnote in the diagram, I jotted down what you will accomplish with this wiring and a Bosch-type relay approach. Is this useful?
Moses
-
Wow, you sure have a surprise in store for folks who think New York State is New York City!
We've been in a very cold snap with an artic flow, limited snow, mostly cold and dry. Like you folks, we need a deep snow pack, it can start any time soon!
Been busy with the XR650R project, getting HD video gear in order for up and coming field shoots, tested a GoPro Hero3 on several shoots (incredible for its size, great resolution, you can really use it with the LCD back), and just stepped up for 24MP DSLR higher end HD video equipment. 2014 should be a fast-paced year with several HD video shoots leading into the Moab Jeep Safari and other events...Trust you and I can share snowshoe trips at least a few times this winter!
Happy Valley looks just that: Happy!
Moses
-
Hi, Biggman100! Glad to see your post...Can you "walk through" these vehicles at the auction location and do a thorough inspection before plunging? How did you decide this was a vehicle worth bidding on?
Moses
-
I have a Sioux air die grinder and use the de-burring carbide tips, too! For welding projects, you can't beat this combination. Thanks for sharing...
-
Very practical, tires covered, the marker lights are still visible, too! Great idea...
Moses
-
Billybob, you're very welcome, and your humor is much appreciated, too! As for wives, they often have a more pragmatic and grounded attitude when it comes to these automotive things...I will say that your 98K miles on the Ram is token for the Cummins; even with the cat system, it has at least 200K more miles in it, even pulling a hefty trailer. To assure this, use a pyrometer.
It's important to consider your objective if you do keep the truck. You want to haul a large trailer and for a long time. I'll be candid about the truck's likely fate in that regard...You can expect the chassis and rear axle to hold up for your plans. The front suspension and joints, whether 2WD or 4WD, will need the usual parts replacement by 200K miles or so. (Use of a cabover camper assured this.) The steering upgrades I mention are primarily for 4WD models, the need accelerated by the use of oversized tires.
The 48RE is likely the weakest link in the truck, certainly in the powertrain. If you can envision amortizing the cost of an ATS or BD transmission over time, that could be appealing. These are really built up units bent on making the 48RE a survivor. A local shop lacks both familiarity with the heavy-duty "reconstruction" (not "rebuild") of the transmission and the proprietary parts that these high-end builders use. There is a difference.
Granted, the price of an ATS or BD transmission does set you back on your heels, but if you weigh that cost against a newer Ram truck with the "better" transmission, you're also getting into heavier emissions and the prospect of an even higher cost to build a later transmission when (note that I did not say, "if...") necessary. Also, the sticker shock from the new Ram's MSRP is far greater than the $5K cost for an ATS transmission.
So, it would pay to discuss options with your wife. You can build a "basic transmission" every 100K miles of towing, which makes no sense whatsoever. If you are going to keep the Dodge Ram, like you say, target a transmission that will last as long as the Cummins engine. I like what ATS has to share about its builds and the "reconstruction" versus rebuild approach to the 48RE.
On another note altogether, regardless of the transmission build, have you considered a lighter trailer? We plan to pull, also a lot, and for us, a 26-27 foot conventional trailer is all we want. Our thought is that we're in it for relatively short periods of time, and some of the floor plans are really exciting now. You can even find a "lightweight" in this category, which comes in at less than half the weight of your current trailer.
Without hawking a particular brand, one trailer that has our attention is the Wildwood 27' Conventional (non-X-Lite) with a slide out in the living room (T26TBSS Model). The use of space was very impressive, it's not 12' up in the wind going down the road, and unless you're set on a 5th wheel for maneuverability (granted, they do park easily), a trailer like the one I'm describing might do it. I'm not aware of what your interior space or sleeping capacity needs to be, so you and your wife would have to judge. The dry weight being under 6000# (realistically 7000# going down the road, loaded and with tanks full and all), I could get 15-16 mpg, possibly better, with our truck pulling the trailer. This would be a lifesaver for the powertrain, too.
If I were to pull 12,000 pounds continually, I'd consider a medium duty truck. "One-ton capacity" equipment and engineering on any U.S. built pickup is questionable for this kind of load. Your truck's curb weight is four tons if a 4x4, 3.5 tons if 2WD, so your GCW is enormous with the current trailer. When you see the 48RE apart, you'll wonder why you ever left the driveway with this package!
Let's kick this around more. We're saving others a lot of grief and dispelling illusions in the process...
Moses
-
Josh, is this gauge hooked up to the return line to the fuel tank? If so, the effect is like a kink or obstruction in the return line: The gauge is a stopping point with no "T" back to the tank. You do not want to check pressure on the return line, regardless. The pressure check is at the small port plug opening (threads into the TBI unit) shown in the factory shop manual PDF illustration I supplied earlier. Locate the test port and removable plug in the PDF picture. Zoom into the PDF, this can be done in Acrobat or Adobe Reader, simply pull into the illustration to get a better view of the test port location.
Also note in the factory manual that it says a restriction in the return line will cause the pressure to spike very high, which may be what you're experiencing at the gauge. The test port pressure, by comparison, will only reflect the regulated pressure at the TBI unit (if correct, 14-15 PSI). The fuel supply and return lines would be independent of the test port pressure.
To test incoming pressure to the TBI from the tank, make a "T" for the inlet pipe connection. The gauge becomes one leg of the "T", the other two legs would be the fuel flowing from the pump into the TBI unit. This should be actual, unregulated fuel pump pressure. Again, do not restrict or attempt to test pressure on the return line, this line must be unrestricted all the way into the fuel tank.
Let us know what you discover...
Moses
-
CasualMechanic...Your compliment is what makes the magazine and forums gratifying...Thanks! Response to the 2.5L TBI coverage has been significant and meaningful...
The flywheel on the 2.5L TBI and MPI engines, as you know, provides the crankshaft position pulse. This is accomplished by a set of carefully positioned "teeth" that set up a field as the flywheel rotates. The odd "tooth out" helps the ECU or PCM determine the top-dead-center (TDC) position of #1 piston and the corresponding crankshaft position. The sensor at the top of the clutch housing is a pickup that interacts with this clocked set of cogs on the flywheel.
Every other rotation of the crankshaft, #1 piston is up to fire. As for ignition, though, the ECU or PCM is simply looking for a reference to TDC: The rest of the spark timing and fuel management is controlled by the computer itself. On your TBI engine and the MPI engine, an ignition distributor directs the controlled spark to each of the distributor cap spark leads, using a typical rotor. Like a conventional distributor, the distributor shaft gets driven by the camshaft.
You actually have two concerns: 1) whether the TDC signal is the same (pickup and flywheel wise), and 2) will the TBI distributor interface with the PCM and other components. The second point simply clarifies whether you need to change out the distributor as well.
Here's the rundown on the parts...Beginning with the distributor, the TBI distributor is not the same as the MPI distributor. You need the MPI distributor for this conversion...As for the flywheel, again you find a different part number for 1991-up MPI engines: Mopar 53005526. Your OE flywheel for the TBI engine is a Mopar 33002408. The TBI flywheel is no longer available from Mopar, the 1991 up flywheel is still available. Here are the Jeep models using the TBI type flywheel, none is newer than 1990:
http://www.autopartsmopar.com/oem-part/oem-mopar/flywheel/33002408
The 53005526 MPI 2.5L flywheel has two counterpart flywheels: 53020578 and 53010555AA. Jeep coverage is wide, from 1991-2002 in 2.5L MPI applications. (The late TJ 2.4L four uses another flywheel type.) There is a difference between the TBI and MPI flywheels, and it's good that you have the donor flywheel.
If I were doing this job on a 2WD Comanche MJ, I would simply remove the transmission and clutch housing to access the clutch assembly and flywheel—unless you prefer removing the engine to install the MPI parts. The engine is relatively short and easy to support while removing the transmission, there's enough room to tilt the engine slightly for access to the clutch housing bolts, and the flywheel is readily accessible at that point. The factory method for changing out the flywheel is just a few steps beyond a clutch cover and disk replacement, and this might be a smart time to renew the clutch assembly.
Without a transfer case, you only have the rear driveline to remove, the Aisin AX4 is relatively easy to remove, and you're there. Make sure the used flywheel has a flat, crack free and usable clutch surface. If the flywheel needs machining, find a capable shop that understands the Jeep/AMC flywheel designs and has proper tooling for the surfacing.
Let us know what the actual difference is between these two flywheels, it should be apparent. A couple of photos would be very helpful, CasualMechanic...Thanks!
Everyone is here for more questions on your project...You will also need the higher output fuel pump that I discuss in the recent/ongoing YJ Wrangler Jeep 2.5L TBI troubleshooting forum exchange:
http://forums.4wdmechanix.com/topic/225-jeep-yj-wrangler-25l-tbi-troubleshooting/
Moses
-
Thanks for checking in, Josh...Please upload some pics of the pressure test (800 pixel width photos work nicely), many 2.5L Jeep folks will benefit. Thanks for following through on this troubleshooting step, you won't regret it, the info will be conclusive!
Moses
-
Billybob...You provided a thorough sense for the 48RE problem. Welcome to the forums, trust you will find all of us helpful and enthusiastic, we share common interests!
First of all, the 48RE was touted by Chrysler/Dodge Truck as the epitome of the A727-derivative transmissions (though they did not make that connection, the ads were more like "the most rugged O.D. behind the Cummins to date", circa 2005. I've built automatic transmissions professionally since the late 1960s. The A727 was a breakthrough in 1962 but not for 2005.
When this 3-speed platform evolved into the A580, the overdrive, electronic controls, the solenoids and governor sensitivity, the weak band struts, bands and the subassembly, shaft, converter and geartrain weaknesses became the start of a large aftermarket for upgrade parts. This continues with the 48RE. I touched on this with the Sonnax discussion and article at the magazine, and Sonnax is an excellent place to see what rebuilders use to upgrade these transmissions and help them survive, even in normal use and duty.
Is the 48RE worth building? Yes, they can be. The A727 was a bulletproof transmission that held up behind 425 horsepower 426 Hemi V-8s, 440 B-blocks in Class A motorhomes, and Dodge trucks to at least 1-ton capacity. When this transmission grew into an overdrive, the A580 was the earliest stab at it, and frankly, that's not the best unit, although some do build them for muscle car retrofitting to gain an overdrive. The derivative overdrive four-speeds like the 44RE, 46RE and 47RE each have some virtues, although I find their marginalized parts a bit frightening.
Like these earlier versions, and granted, the 48RE is a bit better than the others, to make a 48RE bulletproof, i.e. capable of pulling a 5th wheel toy hauler with a Cummins 5.9L HO engine, does require a laundry list of upgrades. A heavy duty torque converter and input shaft are always on the priority list, the factory converter is marginal at best. For the sake of those interested, here are just a few links full of insights into the "necessary improvements" for the 48RE if you want to use it in the high performance or ongoing trailer pulling realm (same as high performance, though with less harsh shifting when the trailer is not in tow). We can begin with the quick list, several you are already considering:
1) http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm
3) http://www.atsdiesel.com/ats2/about_billet_trans.asp
4) http://www.suncoastconverters.com/shop/dodge-48re-m3ga-transmission-kit-2003-2007/
5) http://ujue5.xspw3.servertrust.com/Dodge_performance_transmissions_s/32.htm
6) http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=48re
This last source at Oregon has a parts list of vital upgrades for the 48RE. When my turn comes to rebuild our 48RE in the '05 Ram 3500 4WD Quad Cab SRW truck (bought new and driven to preserve the powertrain, above all!), I will pay close attention to the strategic parts on a list like Oregon Performance Transmission.
That said, since you're not comfortable with rebuilding the unit yourself, you can use the Oregon source as a yardstick for what parts need to be in a rebuild. Also scan the upgrade parts lists at the major shops like BDS and ATS. I would pore over the Sonnax parts, too, every last one that they recommend for keeping a 48RE alive. BDS, Banks and a host of others build the heavy-duty torque converters.
Go for cost-effective but make sure all of the quality upgrades are in place. The phrase "billet replacement" is useful when you see the size of shafts (like the input) and internals. Heavy duty struts, bands and clutch units, heavy duty bushings/bearings, planets and thrusts, there seems to be no end to how an RE Dodge truck transmission can be improved, even the last one, the 48RE!
Cooling is critical, the mantra with automatic transmissions, so shop coolers, too. Warranty is essential, a real "use anywhere", parts and labor assurance that you can be at Timbuktu and get some kind of recourse with the warranty. (This cleaves toward the major builders like BDS and ATS; frankly, others would be universal, local shop service contracts.) Pulling a trailer, you want a transmission that will not fail—ever, ideally—and if it does for any reason whatsoever, you cannot be "stranded" or left to the mercy of a smaller shop with standard replacement parts that would downgrade your expensive rebuild.
All of this scary stuff aside, I have pulled trailers with our '05 Ram 3500 4WD, and hefty ones at times: 1) the car hauler with the XJ Cherokee on board to Moab, 2) a 27' toy hauler to King of the Hammers, and 3) lots of short hauling and moving chores, including a shop full of machinery and a compact tractor, loads in the 8,000# to 10,000# range. That's still not 12,000#, and every pound is an effort for the Dodge Ram overdrive transmissions through the 48RE.
On that note, we're I to do it all again, the NV5600 six-speed manual transmission would likely have been my choice. My wife is not thrilled to drive a lifted truck with oversized tires, though the truck handles really well, and ride and stance are at least as stable as stock, maybe better. It's the size thing.
That said, for me personally, a manual transmission would have been just fine. Perfect? No, they need clutches and clutch upgrades, possibly a rebuild at some point. Compared to the 48RE, though, there would not be the factor of just plain expecting to do a rebuild—inopportunely in your case. (I'd be a bit less surprised; having seen the inside of my 48RE when I did the Sonnax valve body and accumulator piston upgrades, I've dispelled any illusions.) I'm expecting the 48RE and converter to require a major overhaul or upgrading somewhere between 180K-240K miles, even with the utmost of care. The stock profile seems just too marginal.
I respect your approach and would suggest price shopping the best equipment and most refined rebuilding methods, balancing and blueprinting included in the build, a quality valve body upgrade, essentially all of the rebuilding techniques that include the best parts while addressing each of the 48RE's weaknesses. Again, make a checklist of Sonnax, ATS and BDS approaches, each has a great deal of experience with these units.
Please let us know what you decide to do. Also, check out my steering gear and linkage exchange with Megatron, you'll be doing that upgrade before this is all over. As a footnote, I'm very happy with my decision to change axle gearing to 4.56 when 4.10 would have solved the bigger tire diameter issue. The 4.56 gearing with 34.6" (35") diameter tires works nicely and takes a load off the engine and transmission. Slight increase in engine piston travel per mile, but that will prove negligible if the engine goes 490K miles instead of 500K. Actually, the engine might last longer with less strain and decreased need for turbo boost and higher cylinder pressures. I geared for anticipated trailering, a conventional pull travel trailer in the 6,000#-7500# range.
Thanks for joining us, Billybob! Looking forward to our exchanges...
Moses
-
Pleased to add comments and assist...Checking the timing by the factory method might help, it's electronically controlled, so follow the official Mopar procedure for setting the base timing. Good you're getting the pressure testing equipment, you'll demystify the regulator and other issues, Josh, and Harbor Freight seems like the cost-effective tool source in this case...
The source for the PDF on the TBI adjustment is a 1989 Mopar Service Manual for Jeep. Should be reasonably accurate on all counts. Check under the regulator bowl for signs of an adjuster screw, a mirror might help. If possible, avoid the need to unbolt the TBI unit again.
Moses
Jeep YJ Wrangler 2.5L TBI Troubleshooting
in Jeep® YJ Wrangler, TJ Wrangler and LJ Wrangler
Posted
A new bowl and spring should do it, Josh! The cut off screw will be visible when you remove the old bowl, this could actually be "California emissions" or some other tamper-proof mandate, maybe a hasty factory method for making sure the adjuster is not cranked up to increase fuel flow or whatever. Long shot guess. Curious: Is the Jeep a "California Emissions/EPA" vehicle?
The CPS test is across the "A" and "B" terminals (labeled on the sensor connector) with the sensor unplugged. You're looking for 200 +/- 75 ohms, a fairly wide variance. The test calls for "engine hot" during the test, so without giving yourself a nice burn, carefully unplug the connector after engine shutdown. If you have gloves that still offer dexterity, use them.
Moses