Sinisterwillys1940
-
Posts
69 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Store
Articles
Gallery
Posts posted by Sinisterwillys1940
-
-
-
Upon review of the fsm I found a test on how to check the yoke angles to see if I need some wedge shims.The vehicle needs a full tank of gas and nothing in the trunk space and on level ground. Then measure the angle from the yoke on the differential side, then the shaft side. The angles should be within 1.5 degrees of each other. If my angles are correct then my height is where it should be and the load change on the u joints.Then that means I need to look into diagnosing bad u joints. If the angles are out side of spec then I need some angle shims to angle the axle up or down a specified degree thus changing the load on the u joints to where it should be. The reason I think it looks higher in the back than the front is that the front has compressed the 4 years its been redone. I'll scan the fsm page on to here
-
With it sitting in the dive way (its slanted) the hard top looks almost level. Sitting in it also looks like its off. So I think I got a hold of the wrong springs
-
Its supposed to be stock height. I'll have to give the parts people a call on why I ended up with a lift kit instead. That does make alot more sense why suddenly the drive shaft length has changed
-
I Measured the lengths I got 23" from the front eyelet to the top of the axle, and 22" from the top of the axle to rear eyelet. Looking at the page I bought the springs they are 45" long in total length. But the eyelets defiantly are different sizes. One is noticeably bigger and is currently sitting in the front, and a smaller one in the back on the shackle. Maybe theres a shim that got left out? Heres the eyelets
-
I"ll measure the lengths of the springs to see if their backwards. As for the Shackles I'll track down some oem ones.
-
I never would've thought that the springs could be backwards. Now the shackles could do it too since they look nothing like the original ones. they had 2 different bolt holes one higher and lower. How do I figure out which oerientation the springs fo on? Suspension isn't really my cup of tea lol
-
I checked the angle. The shaft pulled out of the rear yoke. My phones having trouble in the cold so I cant take a picture. Could the rear shackles be the cause?
-
Hello all. I have a 1990 jeep wrangler with a 2.5l 4cyl engine. The engine is young, only 4 or 5 thousand miles on it. However the rest of the drive train has 264,000 miles on it. Anyway the saga continues after adding new rear leaf springs. After the replacement on the way home this noise happens only when I let off the throttle. I think the ride hight is higher than what the stock was. But that should still not cause this noise Right? My question is what the stock springs should be just to verify I have the right springs and and what the awful sounds coming from the transfer case. Transfer cases are a bit of uncharted territory for me I'm unfamiliar with it. I have a video included. What shall I check first?
-
I got the figures from the Haynes manual. The weather has been sunny lately here and It was running way better, I had plenty of power and it idled lower and smoother. then it started raining and the idle changed and I had less power than before. I'm convinced the issue is the plug wires.
-
I checked the coil resistance. the primary had .3 ohms and the secondary had 7.25 ohms. I could've mixed up which circuit is which. If I'm not mistaken the primary is supposed to be at least .4 or .5 ohms. right? I'm not sure what the readings are supposed to be
-
I'll have to check the coil when I get the chance. I've found some mopar replacement wires.
-
Makes sense. I did the spark ark test. I used a screwdriver instead and I could see a tiny little orange ark. If I was to assume the ark should be a little brighter than what I had
-
I checked the cap and rotor. the cap is still pretty new, from the fall but it had some corrosion on the tower contacts. I gave them a quick clean, and I cleaned the rotor as well. Both are still pretty good shape. I certainly agree that the wires are causing problems. I'll have to do the spark arc test when I get the chance
-
I tested all of the plug wires. All but one had 1 km. One wire had 2 km. perhaps the 2km wire belongs on the coil to cap?
-
It was at operating temp. It was in closed loop too. I've adjusted the isc and the tps and the readings are still the same. I have noticed How ever that it runs a lot better, lower idle and no hesitation or stumbling during acceleration when its humid! This past week went by with out issues till just a hour ago the issues arose again. So weather is making a impact on how it runs. Could this be some kind of ignition problem?
-
I Just go the o2 sensor in the mail today and the st trim has dropped to a average of 130-158, its still high but much better. The Lt trim has gone up to 119. Is the o2 sensor supposed to jump around from 0-700mv and anything in between? should it be showing a reading of 0 mv at all?
-
That does sound like the issue. I had a crown automotive o2s in there. It did the trick but it was metering lower than what it should've been. The o2 sensor currently in it didn't pass the quick test or the propane test, it actually didn't respond at all to the propane test. I did have good luck finding a NTK o2 sensor for $30 on rock auto.
-
well I need a new o2 sensor. I accidently shorted the heater circuit with the t pins and it roasted me lead and some of the insulation on the wires. Oops.....
-
Not yet. I have a lab scope I could use. I do agree the o2 isn't metering correctly I'll have to see what the lab scope says
-
I put a new 2.5l into the jeep and it only has 400 miles. It was running great till suddenly the issues popped up again. I hooked the scanner up and saw that the short term trim was ridiculously high. Its reference point at idle is 128 and its running at 180. The long term trim is at 109. the injector pulse is 2.0. The o2 sensor was reading no higher than 500mv.
-
So the engine in my 1990 wrangler has gone over hill. The cylinders are scored and they are already bored .060 over. A good friend of mine has found a 1998 engine still assembled (it was removed because the owner put a bigger engine in). It also has the 5 speed transmission if I'm not mistaken the ax5 and transfer case with it. its quite a deal, but my question is would the block be able to fit in the 1990 wrangler? If I get parts for it would I need 1998?
-
An update on the oil issue is that it still is leaking but now squirting. The actual cause is compression is getting into the crank case and with that filter not in there correctly it caused the oil cap to blow off one time and then the oil spewing issue. I haven't been diving it a whole lot now since I've discovered the compression lose. The cylinders are scored severely
-
1990 Jeep YJ Wrangler Transfer Case Noise And Rear Suspension Specs
in Jeep® YJ Wrangler, TJ Wrangler and LJ Wrangler
Posted
I checked the angles. I'm with in 1 degree of each other. That's pointing me in the direction that the ujonts are bad.