lastCJ7
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Posts posted by lastCJ7
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Hi Moses, I like to use an air die grinder with a carbide tip. great for deburring,if a hole does not line up you can just clean it out a bit till it does. I also have a second die grinder with a cut off wheel. This too works great to cut, grind, you name it!
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here is a shot from the back.
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I wanted a wider,stronger less over hang flare for my 86 CJ7 widetrack with 35" tires on 10" rims.
I did not want a 6" or 7" flare. So I went with a 5" flat flare from Xenon.
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I can tell you that the Waggy Dana 44 front has a thicker wall tube then the Scout II, and the tube is thicker then a stock Rubicon Dana 44 front axle. I think the shop cut off 3 5/8" from the tube and the axle shaft. Some people out board but this does not look right to me, plus I already had a HD steering link. later I did the tie rod flip (with insert) and went back to the stock pitman arm.
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the only mistake I did was I had the stock shaft resplined. I should have just gotten a chromemoly shaft and outer from the start. I did later, only on that side. I used the CJ outers on my Jeep as well as the CJ rotors.
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there are ways to make the Dana 44 as well as the 30 work with big tires. Chromemolly shafts help.
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last CJ7 here (Rich) I have a 1980 Scout 2 Dana 44 cut down front axle in my 86 CJ7. I have a 4" lift I had a local shop add 10 degrees to the knuckles. drives great down the road. As far as the Waggy front hubs if there is room have them redrilled. When I installed Ford 8.8 rear disc brakes I had them redrill the rotors to 5 on 5 1/2 (from 5 on 4 1/2).
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No I have a switch inside the Jeep to turn it on.
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Ok, so this is what I found out. On top of York compressors there is an S for suction. My old York had the S on the right side, my new York has it on the left. My York stands up and on the S side I run an air filter. After switching these, my compresor works. But with no "click" like the old one when I hit the power.
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Ok thanks I'll take a look this week.
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Hi, Moses, I had an old AMC Corcord York 210 A/C turned into onboard air for my CJ-7 Jeep. The air supply worked great for years. I thought I killed it, so I swapped it out. I think I let the oil run dry on the old one, and it was running even with the power cut.
Now I don't hear the clutch kick in when I add power to it. How do I know if this clutch is good? I hope this one is good. I added oil and it turns and makes a pumping sound.
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When I could only get one of the bleeders out, I got a new caliper from Auto Zone. I should have gotten two but I wanted to see how the brakes were gonna work, and I should have gotten new pads. I will
more than likely do both down the run. I'm wiping the rotors off with the old pads, LOL.As for the E-brake cables I cut some of the spring on the CJ cables and just wrapped it over the lever for now with zip ties I'm going to Home Depot to get the cable clamps/saddles. What do they say, "Never saddle a dead horse." LOL
I Also keep forgetting to say that I use your Jeep CJ Rebuilder's manual for tips and insight. I will try to take more pictures soon!
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Great so I'm okay to run as is. One more note that I found out by reseach is that rear disc brakes shine when you are backing up or down a hill. Thanks
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Hi Moses, I used a '96 Ford Explorer 8.8". Not sure of master cylinder bore sizes...So a TJ Wrangler has disc/drums and a Rubicon TJ or LJ has Disc/Disc. Different masters?
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1996 Ford 8.8 rear disc brakes on a 1986 Jeep CJ7 factory Dana 44 rear axle. 2 Ford rear passenger side hoses, 1/4" spacer, re-drilled to 5 on 5-1/2" and hole cut out to fit axle shaft. Modified rear shoes.
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I'm not up on the ax15's but an AX15 should be an AX15. also check how much to get it welded.
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Ok...All bled and took it for a ride: good pedal, no real improvement over drum rears, no rear lockups, the CJ stops as it did before.
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I got one bleeder out and had to buy a new caliper. I installed them and pumped up the pedal,
bled back and forth and added fluid. I got some air out, seems better. Will get a buddy over to help me do the two man bleed. This is a start! -
Hi, Moses, great info as always. What I did not tell you is that the bleeder screws on the Ford 8.8 calipers are frozen, so I bleed them from the lines. I was told today that I can not do that...You must bleed from the bleeder valves to get all the air out. So I will be using an easy-out in a day or two, or worse case install new calipers. Then I will see if that helps. Thanks
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I've got a 1986 CJ7 258 Weber carb, factory Dana 44 rear (re-geared to 3:73's with Lockright locker) narrowed down Scout Dana 44 front with 3:73 gears, Spartan locker, old-style 6 bolt wheel hubs, stock factory front discs, Jeep T18 4 speed to a Scout/Dana 30 transfer case, power steering cooler, AMC Concord A/C now, onboard air with a tank, 35" BFG muds on 10" rims.
I recently added Ford 8.8 rear discs to the Dana 44 rear. I had to have the bolt pattern redrilled to 5 on 5 1/2 and cut out the middle hole bigger for the flange. I had to elongate the mounting holes and bracket holes, mounted everything up and discovered the rotors set out 1/4" too far on the hat of the rotor. I added a 1/4" spacer, and everything bolted up.
I hooked up the calipers and bled the lines. Had front brakes but little to no rear brakes. Went to the local u pick it junkyard and got an '05 TJ Rubicon proportioning valve. I checked all the lines and installed the proportioning valve. It seemed worse!
Questions: 1) Should the proportioning valve be up near the master like the Rubicon, or is it okay to have it in the CJ7 location on the frame? 2) Should I still get an adjustable pro valve and keep the Rubicon proportioning valve, or 3) should I go back to the CJ7 proportioning valve and add the adjustable valve near the master? Or should I upgrade the master?
CJ Jeep Flat Fender Flares
in 1972-86 AMC/Jeep® CJ and Jeepster Models
Posted
This is a better shot from the trail!