Mike House
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Posts posted by Mike House
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Thanks Moses!.
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Some parts showed up this week so I went back to work on the 3B.
Fuel pump eccentric, distributor drive gear, oil slinger and timing chain tensioner. I closed up the front of the engine. I am waiting to put the intake manifold and valve covers on until I can prime the oil system. I am waiting for the right tool. I made a tool but struggled to keep it centered on the oil pump drive gear so I ordered the right tool.
The flywheel came back from the shop so I was able to get the clutch mounted and the transmission bolted up! Feels like progress! Once I am able to get oil pressure to the system and see it in the heads I will feel much better! -
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Just now, Mike House said:
I used the Melling engine assembly lube with zinc that the machine shop provided with my rebuild kit for the bearings and Cam Shield cam shaft assembly lube on the cam.
I will stick with the manual choke at least for now. I got a call from Atlanta Carburator and my carb is finished and on it's way back to me. One step closer!
I think I will go with the Advanced Adapters headers. Thank you for the input. I will run the exhaust out the back of the jeep. I have a feeling my daughter will be my constant passenger in the jeep so we want to keep her out of the fumes.
Hopefully some day soon I can take the family on a trail ride in the new jeep. We may not make it to the Rubicon any time soon but there is a lot of opportunities out here in the blue mountains and Carolinas.
I will open up the book and check out that roll cage. I have not put much thought into the roll cage but I know it will be time soon.
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I used the Melling engine assembly lube with zinc that the machine shop provided with my rebuild kit for the bearings and Cam Shield cam shaft assembly lube on the cam.
I will stick with the manual choke at least for now. I got a call from Atlanta Carburator and my carb is finished and on it's way back to me. One step closer!
I think I will go with the Advanced Adapters headers. Thank you for the input. I will run the exhaust out the back of the jeep. I have a feeling my daughter will be my constant passenger in the jeep so we want to keep her out of the fumes.
Hopefully some day soon I can take the family on a trail ride in the new jeep. We may not make it to the Rubicon any time soon but there is a lot of opportunities out here in the blue mountains and Carolinas.
I will open up the book and check out that roll cage. I have not put much thought into the roll cage but I know it will be time soon.
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6 hours ago, Mike House said:
The wife picked up some Vaseline when she was at the store so I was able to pack the pump and close it up!
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Thanks Moses,
Pics above are some more work I completed today. I purchased the adapter from Novak. Everything went together no problem.
I am fortunate to have both the time and the resources to keep moving on this project. Often when I have the time I don't have the resources and when I have the resources I don't have the time. This project is moving a long nicely. I am trying to stay focused on not cutting corners and getting in a rush to finish.
The new body really puts this project in high gear. I appreciate all of the info on painting and paint supplies. I suppose it is time to start thinking about the paint. All of the painting I have done in the past has been on industrial or heavy equipment and certainly nothing like this. I do have a guy at work who has a small paint shop. I have been bending his ear about painting the jeep.
So I am going to need exhaust soon. I got to looking closely at my exhaust manifolds and there has been some brazing done on both sides to repair broken flanges and the bolt holes. I am going to get new. I read a lot of your (Moses) feedback to others about manifolds vs headers and exhaust pipe. There is surprisingly a lot of talk on the forums about exhaust. I found these at Advanced Adapters
I also bought my universal motor mounts from AA so maybe this is the way to go.
Valve Covers... I need a couple of valve covers and can not seem to find any. I have seen a few on ebay but there is nothing right now that I see.
Does anyone have a resource for valve covers???
Mike
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Plumbed! Yes that is what I was referring to. I am so used to sawmill terms when installing new equipment. I have drifted a ways from my roots in heavy equipment and light truck work.
That sounds reasonable for warming it up. I will flush that new radiator with the garden hose thoroughly before I install it.
I sent my original carburetor to a guy in Atlanta to be rebuilt. He called yesterday and told me it was good to go and shipped it back my way. I should see it before the end of the week.
This morning before it got to busy around the house I snuck out to the garage and completed the Melling high volume pump upgrade. It all went together pretty seamlessly. Those are very tight clearances on the housing for the two gears. I could see it being an issue if the spacer plate was not centered perfectly when drilling the holes for the roll pins.
I will get a few oil filters on hand for the initial start up of this engine. I have so many new parts going into the engine and with everything getting cut or bored at the machine shop I will likely get some metal flushed out.
I will post some pics of the pump upgrade.
Also made good progress with the body..... a new body showed up Friday. I will keep the old body for a future project. There is very little to work with other than the grill and the fire wall. I don't think there is a square inch of the tub that hasn't been cut, welded, smashed up, layered with steel on steel on rust. It is not a total loss. I just don't have the time, tools, space or skill level to rebuild the body right now.
I am very happy with the MD Juan body that I purchased through CandC equipment. They were very good to work with and the body showed up within 3 days of the time I purchased it.
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Thanks for all the great insight Moses! I have been thinking a lot about “break in” and just how I should go about it. I will likely have this engine and transmission sitting in the frame and ready to run in the next few weeks. I won’t be ready to drive it for another 4-6 months. Is there any harm in running the engine once I get it in plumbed and wired?
mid getting it up to temperature and shutting it down going to have any drawbacks or impact on break in?
thanksMike
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9 hours ago, Moses Ludel said:
Mike, "normal" oil pressure for the Dauntless V-6 was 33 psi at 2,400 rpm. 70 psi is way too high and could even lead to spinning a bearing. I would use the spring that delivers around 40-45 psi at the 2,400 rpm with the engine fully warmed. If Melling indicates the pressure range for each spring, use that guideline. At least step down from the 70 psi spring. The goal with the Melling "high volume" pump is just that: reasonable pressure with more available volume.
You're not running this engine with racing bearing clearances intended for straight 50 wt. oil. You will likely be running a modern multi-vis oil, using ambient temperature as your guide: 10W-40 weight after break-in during warmer weather, maybe 5W-30 in cold start-up winters. 5W-30 would also be a good break-in viscosity if the engine seals well.
Moses
Ok got it. The instructions with the kit does indicate the pressure range for each of the springs. I will get the right one in there! We don't need any trouble with oil or bearings considering all the work that has gone into this engine. Getting a lot closer every day as more parts arrive!
Thanks for the help.
Mike
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On 6/17/2020 at 4:26 PM, Moses Ludel said:
Mike, snoopy2x is right on about the demand for adequate oil volume (i.e., pressure as well). There is a less expensive, fully functional alternative to the more expensive TA Performance pump: The Melling "High Volume" Pump Kit for Buick V-6 and V-8 engines: Melling Part Number K-20IPV (that's an upper case "I" letter, not a "1"). This kit uses a spacer plate that raises the oil pump end plate height to provide room for two longer oil pump gears, springs and small parts.
This is the pump kit I used for my 231 V-6 build for the 1955 Jeep CJ-5. (I did the same approach on our 1987 AMC/Jeep Grand Wagoneer's 360 V-8 with a Melling High Volume Pump Kit for AMC V-8s.) The solution is ingenious; simply extending the oil pump cavity height and providing longer gears will increase the volume of oil between the pump rotors. Pressure can be adjusted to your needs with the choice of springs provided in the kit.
The cautionary part of this pump installation is the centering pins for the spacer plate. The plate must index precisely on the timing cover/pump housing. These two pin holes must be drilled correctly, which is not an insurmountable task but one that requires patience and proper alignment. Failure to align the spacer with the timing cover gear bores will result in gear drag.
As for your timing cover issue, if there is oil pump bore wear (common for Buick and AMC engines with this kind of oil pump configuration), you might as well get a new timing cover. Regarding the original cover, if it is a necessity or practical to repair it, I would use the Time-Sert repair method. The thread drilling and tapping kit and stainless inserts are not cheap, but the precision tools can be reused many times.
I never use Heli-Coil repairs on this type of project. Here is the Time-Sert method performed on one of my critical aluminum thread projects where I saved the cost of a new motorcycle outer case: https://www.4wdmechanix.com/how-to-time-sert-aluminum-thread-repair-and-upgrade/. Your timing cover is similar.
If you use a Time-Sert repair, you could set the insert with a quality two-part epoxy then even epoxy a graded stud rather than bolt into the case. The water pump gasket would actually seal around either a bolt or stud, so setting the insert with epoxy would be enough, allowing use of a removable OEM type bolt to secure the water pump.
This comes down to whether the oil pump cavity is in good condition and the cost of a new timing cover. Despite the hole punched through the blind hole casting of the cover, the water pump should not seep coolant if the pump gasket is a Felpro type with impregnated sealant and you use pipe/thread sealing Teflon paste (high temp automotive type) on the water pump fastener threads.
As for snoopy2x's suggestion about a Cloyes doubler-roller timing set, that's my approach as well. Good suggestion and safeguard that will last for the engine's normal lifespan.
Moses
Moses, above you stated oil pressure can be adjusted using the springs based on your needs. Or something like that. My question is how do I know what my needs are???
I did purchase the Melling high volume pump kit for this rebuild. How do I determine what pressure spring I should use? Is more better? My oil clearances on the rods and main bearing are all right at .002”.
I think 70lbs was the highest pressure spring available.
any thoughts?Thanks for all the help.
Mike
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That's great advice Moses. I will check it out. I did notice in the description of the distributor drive gear that this piece fits several engines both V8 and V6.
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Nows the time to do it for sure. I would hate to have to go back into it later.
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I didn’t keep the old ones unfortunately. I will do a little more research to be sure.
now that I take a closer look at the cam lobe for the fuel pump I believe it should be replaced.
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How about that cam lob wear where the fuel pump actuator rides? I wonder how much wear I can have there? A new one at TA Performance is about $80 and I am going to be buying a distributor drive gear and oil slinger there also....
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You know of all the pictures I have been taking I did not take a picture of the face of the heads..... I don't recall what they looked like. I did go on line and look at gaskets sets for the 225 and every images I looked at the gaskets were configured with the small hole just like the ones in the pics that I installed. I will do a little more digging around about the head gasket. I am going to be waiting on parts now for a little bit so no big deal. I can't assemble the timing cover and water pump until I get the distributor gear. Perfect timing I suppose. It's back to work tomorrow.
Mike
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Thanks Moses.
I am happy that I went with this engine for the project. Looks like the machine shop did a good job with all of the machine work. I had not planned on using the high volume pump but now that I am so deep into the motor and have so much $ invested in it I believe I will.
I think a guy I work with has a GM priming tool for a drill. If not will pick one up for sure. It looks like I need to replace the disributor drive gear on the cam. It has one damaged tooth. I think I will also replace the piece that drives the fuel pump. it looks like it is a little flakey.
I put the cam in today and the timing set.
I ran into something that seemed not quit right on the head gaskets. I went ahead and put the heads on also I hope I didn't make a mistake with the gasket.
I had set the gasket on the block to check for fit and alignment and I notice that there is not much of a hole for two of the (what looks like to me) water journals. The hole in the block is about 5/8" but the hole in the gasket is only about 1/8". Is that ok? It just doesn't seem right.
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Back to work on the 3b today. I now have everything to build my engine. Today I checked oil clearances on the rods and mains. Plastigauge has me at just about .002” on all the rods and the mains. I was not looking forward to checking rod clearances after the crank was in the block. I strapped it down to the bench and it was not bad at all.
It was a productive day. Crank is in. All pistons are in. Everything rotates as it should and end play on the crank is good. I checked the ring gap on one ring from each piston in their respective cylinder.
I may set the heads on tomorrow.
1956 Willys CJ3B Rebuild and Restoration
in Vintage Jeep® Vehicles 1941-71
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Engine is in and mounts are welded out. Hung the grill so that I can position the radiator and build mounts for it.