Nucking Futs
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Everything posted by Nucking Futs
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Hi Moses, thank you for the sage advice. I agree that a leakdown test will be the most telling. I have no abnormal oil consumption, but oil has an excessive gas smell. Yes, I will be doing (or employe my mechanic) to do a leakdown test. I have considered back-pressure to some degree. I installed a new cat when I installed my Howell system as I did not know the age of the catalytic converter and wanted to remove that variable just in case it had issues. 30-years ago, I had an old 70's Monte Carlo that the cat was plugged. It would not run. I have not looked at the muffler and it could be causing excessive restriction. I will look into that. I did hook up my desktop to the Howell ECM. I was never able to save the engine log, it would not allow me to access. However, I recall everything looked within range, but I did not test the actual TPS. Leakdown test, bore scope cylinders, muffler flow, and some further testing of components will be down before a rebuild. I shall report back when I have more information. -
Hi, it has been a minute since I've reported in. I've been wrestling with little things in life and the Jeep. Update, I found a few very small vacuum leaks, but I always suspected a major issue(s). Disconnecting all vacuum sources and still have a slight issue with higher idle. I noticed that I had major blow by one day (engine compartment had an oil bath which is a long story) when I removed the PCV system to see what would happen. It was pretty bad how much oil came out of and around the dip-stick. Oil has a gas smell too. Looks like I lost some rings. While I am not sure, I suspect this was causing issues with the MAP sensor. Just a guess at this point. My engine has issues and need a rebuild. A little sad at 170,xxx miles (assuming it is correct). This is outside of my wheelhouse currently, so I need to pay a professional to have my engine rebuilt. Now, I just want a little more HP on the top end without sacrificing the torque at the low end. I need to find a good builder to square this engine for me.
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Latest update: EGR is bad. While that steadied the idle, still running a little high at times. Haven't gone down to get a gauge to check pressure, do that this weekend. But, the funny thing. If I coast down the road at any given speed (clutch in and/or out of gear), she will idle around 1000 rpm. If I stop, idles down to 800 rpm +/-. If I sit still, idle will come done to 750 rpm. What the heck? Emailed Howell and I have yet to receive a reply. Phone call next. I am new to TBI and ECM in general. To me, it is a programming issue, or speed sensor issue. I just cannot find a vacuum leak to explain the idle, nor should it vary with speed anyways. Or is there something else that could cause a fluctuation in idle according to speed?
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I disconnected the IAC and ran the engine under load. Idle ran back up to 900-1000 again. Also heard a faint whistle sound. Vacuum leak through the TB somewhere, just haven't found it yet. The good news it is not the IAC pintle, EGR, MAP, and it is just a vacuum leak (most likely). Most likely place is the adapter plate. I will try some WD40 or carb cleaner this time instead of propane.
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The Air cleaner is usually the killer in visual inspection. Ironically, the California approved E.O. kit from Howell suggest an open element, which is approved by California! Its all about money and Howell paid Ca for the E.O. (proof our laws are about money and not environmental). Now I do have a question about idle. Disclaimer, I am at best a weekend mechanic, at that is a stretch. My Jeep wants to idle around 900-1000 RPM, and when it sits for a minute will drop down to 750-800 gradually. To me it is acting like a vacuum leak, but I have no idle change with a propane test around TBI base, vacuum ports, hoses, PCV, CTO. There is no CE light, and I have no error codes. I am not convinced yet that I do not have a vacuum leak. But, wouldn't a slight vacuum leak set off a code? I am concerned that I may have a slight leak though the adapter plate, which needed silicone to fill over the bolts. The plenum cuts into the cavity of the bolt heads just a little, and Howell instructions inform that the heads need to be sealed with silicone to prevent a leak.This is my initial feeling, but have not confirmed it yet. Jeep idles around 900 rpm and is smooth, drives down the road great. When it does idle down to the 750-800 range, it does get just a little rough on idle, not much, it is just noticeable. Things I have not checked yet include: plugs/wires, manifold/ported vacuum at idle and speed, fuel pressure (in/out), voltage at ECM at idle. I did check timing and retard to Howells recommended 6 to 8 degrees with no vacuum hose attached to distributor and blocked off while setting. Distributor gets ported vacuum. It would be nice to check total timing if I had the right tools. Anything else I should be looking at before I adjust the idle stop? I want to make sure I am not masking the problem(s).
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Sorry for the delay, several home projects that needed my dire attention. My fix was to directly connect the ECM to the tach signal from the MSD Street Fire CDI. I looked around the internet, and several people just connected the ECM to the tach signal from the CDI. Seems to be working so far. Idle is high (900 +/-), but I may need to adjust that per Howells instructions. I have about 30 miles on her so far, so maybe the computer is still learning?? I might decide to purchase the filter, just in case. I would rather be proactive than reactive. I just need to get a GM air cleaner assembly for the junkyard to "look smog legal" versus the open air element that Howell suggest. That will just tweak the smog techs, as the TBI conversion won't tweak them already. Again, proactive approach.
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Got my answer.
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Hi all, found this little gem of a forum after trolling the internet for some answers. Seems like a lot of smart people (smarter than me at least) here, so thought I would pick ya'll brains. A little background. I am installing a Painless (oxymoron) 10150 Direct Fit Harness to my California 1984 CJ7, plus installing a Howell TBI kit, with a MSD Street Fire CDI. There are some issues that need to be clarified to me, and may benefit others too. So I will expose my ineptness for the benefit for all. I will limit this to one pressing question for now. Per Howell instructions-"After the grounds are secured, route the labeled purple and orange wires to the starter solenoid on the right hand fender well or to the starter. These wires each have a lug that attaches to the stud on either side of the solenoid or starter. (FIGURE 11) The orange wire is battery power and connects on the battery side of the solenoid or the positive post of the starter. The purple wire connects on the opposite side of the solenoid or to the starter solenoid post of the starter. Connect the labeled white wire to the ignition coil negative terminal to pick up a tach signal. NOTE: Multiple spark discharge ignitions require a special tach filter to function correctly. Contact Howell Engine Developments if you need one." So the inept question time. I have a Multi spark ignition. I am attaching the Howell Orange and Purple wires to solenoid per instructions if that matters. However, should I purchase the special tach filter (as recommended by Howell) to connect the tach signal for the ECM from the CDI, or can I just connect the WHITE WIRE to the negative (-) terminal of the coil and be golden (or is that a bad idea)? If coil connection is ok, is there a benefit to connecting to the CDI over the coil? The only thing I can think of that may be an issue attaching to the coil is the 430 volts the MSD is sending to the coil and that being an issue! Kinda thinking the coil connection is a bad idea with this CDI (or any CDI). Thank you.......
