wolfman
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Posts posted by wolfman
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Guess I'll be seeing ya. Sorry to bail but I don't pay for anything on forums of any kind. I did this once and it ended up costing me a lot more. Not that I think it would here but I've just made it a rule for myself. Glad to have gotten to talk to you guys.
Later
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21 hours ago, Moses Ludel said:
Drew and wolfman, please note that you each have messaging as part of your current membership at these forums. If you prefer a degree of privacy around your personal email addresses, take advantage of messaging each other back and forth through the secure forums messaging service. IPS is our server host, very efficient and safe.
Member privileges will change on February 1st. (See the Subscriber Member benefit details at the forums home page.) If you continue as Subscriber Members, messaging is one of the perks. The current (old) Member status ends after January 31st. It would be great to see each of you continue as valued Subscriber Members at the forums with full membership privileges...
Moses
So does this mean as of February 1st we'll have to pay to be here?
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I knew about messaging, just didn't think of it. Thanks moses.
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I'm in Iowa. Right now I have the tranny back in, tomorrow I will finish filling it with oil and try it without the TC on it.
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Yep yep and yep lol. All of the clutch parts are as they should be and installed correctly.
Drew, I would have to look it up again to be sure of the brand of clutch set. I got it from O'Reilly
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I have the 231 TC.
Drew it makes no difference at all.
At this point I think I'm going to reinstall the tranny and then start it up and try it. If it doesn't do it then, then I'll know it's the TC. BTW I couldn't find any wear marks in the TC where it was slipping or anything abnormal.
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It even does it with the rear drive shafts out of it so I'm certain it's not the axels
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Ok moses, I have a question. I find ally got this put together once, took it down the road and all was good until I downshifted. I heard this terrible racket under the ZJ the sounded a lot like the splines on the drive shafts were letting it spin across them. (That was not the case thank goodness.) By the time I got it back home, every time you let the clutch out it makes this noise and it won't move. I checked the drive shafts first and it's all good. Took out TC and tore it apart, all looks good in there. Took out AX15 and pulled the case apart on it, can't see anything wrong there either. Took off the clutch and it looks good. I can't find a single thing that would make it do that.
Any ideas?
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6 hours ago, Moses Ludel said:
Drew, thanks for sharing in a way that was helpful to wolfman and others...That's a forum community!
Regarding the difference in manual versus automatic transmission lengths, does the rear engine/transmission mount fit the same crossmember position for AX15 and automatic transmission models? Is the transmission mount the same? Is the transmission length difference rearward of the mount?
What are you doing about the front driveline if the transfer case sets further forward? Is the OE front shaft too long—but offset by the chassis lift? Make sure the front driveshaft can extend and collapse with room to spare over its range of suspension travel. You don't want the shaft to compress too far (upward suspension travel) and bottom, which can damage the transfer case.
Have some fun this holiday weekend...
Moses
Moses, I had to take the top half of the automatic transmission tail mount and bolt it to the bottom section of the manual transmission tail mount. Before bolting them together though, I had to cut off the exhaust hanger from the bottom section. Since the manual XJ has completely different hangers, when you cut that one off it will leave room for the automatic ZJ exhaust hanger that is already on the top section of the tail mount. This proccess will allow the tail mount to bolt right up to the ZJ cross member.
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1 hour ago, Drew082788 said:
also the plate underneath on the frame only need to cut out the circle area not the rectangle part and right now my shifter is hitting the plastic so I'm going to have to modif it a little and still have to move the bracket for the 4x4 back a little bit I also used the new ecm I bought for my 92 since it is set for a manual transmission I also used the transmission bracket off the automatic transmission and crossmember cause it lined up on the zj cause the xj one was to big but I had a little trouble lining it up but used a ratchet strap and pulled it into place but everything else has lined up perfectly
I took the bracket from the automatic 4x4 shift linkage and cut pieces of of it to make it flat, held it up there where it needed to be and marked it. Then I welded it to the manual bracket. This way you won't have to move the piece on the body back.
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Ok moses, then no it does not make up that 2 3/8" difference. Hence the reason for shortening and lengthening drive shafts.
Drew, thank you for your info. I didn't even think of a 2wd cherokee. I was thinking of maybe a Dakota drive shaft.
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What adapter are we talking about? I didn't put anything extra on it. I bolted the tranny directly to the engine block, the transfer case directly to the tranny.
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Glad you got it going drew. How did you solve the rear drive shaft being to short?
Moses, sorry I've been away. Been very busy lately, wife having foot trouble again and my wrench time got cut way down. I did however measure the trannys with a tape measure. The manual is 2 3/8" shorter than the automatic.
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Ok, the first 2 pics show the automatic tranny tail shaft and the TC input shaft.
The next 2 show the manual tranny tail shaft and the TC input shaft for it.
You could put the automatic tail shaft into the manual's TC but not the other way around.
Also when I said we measured the 2 trannys and they were the same length, turns out my father-in-law stepped it out beside each one instead of using a tape measure. The manual is shorter than the automatic. When I measure it out I'll let you know how much. The front drive shaft out of the XJ will now work in the ZJ. However, this is not the case for the rear one, it will have to be longer now.
Many of these issues could've been fabricated differently if they were known ahead of time. I will make suggestions on that when I'm done.
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No its not really to long it just wasn't right. I'll get some pics to show you later in the week. What I did was take the input shaft out of the busted 231 TC from the XJ and put it in the ZJ TC. Should work now.
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The spline count is the same. Only difference is, the automatic has a smooth portion at the end and the TC has a smooth portion in the bottom of it. The manual is splined all the way out to the end.
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Oh I'm definitely committed the the XJ bracket. I'm past the point of no return as of now. thank you for that info, I was prepared to pull the MC off and attempt to adjust the booster. I think the issue is that the XJ has the bracket sitting in there more level than the ZJ does. I have moved on to actually installing the engine and transmission only to find that my ZJ 231 TC won't fit on the XJ tranny without changing the input shaft to accept the manual output shaft. Once I get all that done I'll come back to the pedals. I may have to do a write up of this so others will know what they are in for before they take this on.
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That's all great info but now can you tell me how to adjust them? I don't see any adjustments to them at all. The pedals at this point are too close to the floorboard.
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I simply just made more holes in the firewall where the bracket lines up for the clutch master cylinder. The bolt hole that I showed you earlier that I drilled in the top of the bracket was a pain to get a bolt back in it. The factory bolt tapered down and was just short enough that it wouldn't grab the threads. Bought a new bolt that was threaded all the way to the end and problem solved. If there is a way to adjust the push rod on the brake booster, I would love to hear about it just in case it needs to be done. I will get a pic here in a few.
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Ok I just bit the bullet and just drilled more holes. Turns out the clutch master cylinder on an XJ is closer to the brake Booster AND higher than where the holes are in a ZJ. Gonna try hooking everything up tomorrow.
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If anyone is considering this kind of swap I would suggest finding a pedal assembly from an actual ZJ. The XJ pedal assembly requires some definate modification to make it work. I've found yet another issue. The distance from the brake Booster studs sticking through the firewall and the holes for the clutch master cylinder seem to be closer together in the XJ than they are in the ZJ. Is there any other way to remedy this other than drilling yet more holes in the firewall? I already had to drill holes for the studs on the clutch master cylinder because the master cylinder for the ZJ is completely different from the XJ one. Here is a pic of the distance that I'm speaking of.
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Ok I did find that the ZJ bracket had a slight bend in it just before the hole. These ends would be facing the driver so drilling holes in the firewall wouldn't be an option. What I did is, I made a cut with a reciprocating saw in the edges and bent it the same as the ZJ bracket and then drilled a hole. Hopefully this works lol. The neutral position switch is just going to get wired together so it won't cause me issues later. I'm going to go without a clutch cut off switch as well. I'm with those wheelers on this lol. Here's a pic of the finished bracket. I also used a die grinder to make the hole for the brake light switch bigger to accept the ZJ switch.
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Another question, the XJ pedal assembly bolts in a little different than the brake pedal in the ZJ. Can I just drill a hole in the XJ assembly to make it bolt in the same as the ZJ? I've attached pics.
Converting a ZJ Grand Cherokee to Manual 5-Speed Transmission
in Jeep® XJ Cherokee, MJ Comanche Pickup and Grand Cherokee
Posted
wolfman...Sorry you've had bad experiences with other forums, I understand...As a courtesy, I will keep topic content visible to the "(Old) Member" group so that folks like yourself who posted content between 2013 and January 31, 2018 will continue to have access to your topic posts and the replies. As an unsubscribed "Old" Member, however, you will not be able to post new topics or replies. Be aware that unsubscribed old members and guests will not be able to open or download PDFs after January 31, 2018.
I'll miss your exchanges! Trust you will find the continued access to topics ("read-only") useful...If you change your mind at any time and want to convert your old membership to a Subscriber Member status, you will be welcome and can pick up posting and participation at the Forums!
Best,
Moses