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  1. I do still have the early T84, I had it re built at a transmission shop, thinking that it was a safer option, however it makes a nasty grating sound in first and reverse, so the theory amongst those I know who speak fluent Jeep is that they put the reverse idler in the wrong way round, so I have to see the current installation of engine and trans as a test fit. Disappointing at this stage. I've contacted centerforce as you suggest, but I think you are right, it may well be more trouble than it’s worth for the amount of use I’ll be giving it. The tyres are stock size. I rang Centerforce technical dept. The guy I spoke to knew nothing about your previous project or book and said that they don’t do custom clutch components anymore. He said that they would dismantle the pressure plate assembly, do the machining and re assemble. Obviously something we can’t do at home. He said that machining the same amount from the friction area of the flywheel would have that same effect, I’m not sure about that. He also said that as the clutch wears, the fingers will get closer to the bearing, potentially giving a problem. At around £200 for the pressure plate, sadly I think it’s potentially opening an expensive can of worms. It looks as if I’ll stick with the original design. Bubba did fit 11” brakes from what I think was a Wagoneer, but I elected to keep them and rebuild them, apart from being bigger, they are self adjusting. I made the little S lines for the front so that they look more like the original as they had rubber hoses coming from the backplate instead. I’ll have to sign up to the forum and add the question for you. Your book is really good and has torque settings for parts that other books don’t list. When this Jeep is done, I’m planning to do a little home brewed web site with lots of pics on Square Space or similar, I bought the domain name 42willys yeas ago, so I’m part of the way there. If that happens I’ll let you know. Apart from the obvious brakes I’m trying to keep the Jeep as period correct as possible, lots of expensive slat bits from USA, Australia, Europe. I’m also creating a used, un restored look, not the factory fresh look, I’ve cut out the rust, and filled Bubba’s many, many drill holes, it’s all steel, no filler on this thing. I don’t know it’s history, but am marking it up as my uncle Phil’s anti aircraft unit who went into France two weeks after D Day, as a mark of respect to him as he died last year. My aunt who died this year was a G.I. Bride, they met on the Tube here in 1945. Many thanks again, I appreciate your help. Best, D.
  2. Hi Moses, I hope you can point me in the right direction, I’m nearing the end of a very thorough four year restoration of a 1942 Willys Jeep which I had shipped from San Francisco in 2008. I’ve made great effort to keep it all looking as correct as possible and do the best job I can. As I’m not a mechanic by trade, I farmed the gearbox and transfer case out. Now it’s in and running, there is a horrible noise from first and reverse, so I’ve resigned myself to pulling it all out and doing a post mortem. Naturally I’m more than disappointed as it’s a day away from being ready for the road and now summer is over here in London. The reason I’m contacting you is that I have your excellent Jeep CJ 1946 - 1971 Rebuilder’s Manual, which has been very useful on some of the mechanical issues. I decided that if I have to pull the drive train out again, then maybe I’d sweeten it by doing the Centreforce clutch conversion you mention on page 242. I’m assuming this will work on the MB. If so my question is, can you tell me exactly what is necessary regarding machining the Pinto clutch, and how you would mount the pressure plate in a lathe. There is a small garage down the road with a machine shop, and have found a Centreforce distributor in South East England, I just need to know exactly what is required to make it work as it seems such a great idea. Any information you can give will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Douglas.
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